1% Ivermectin (in-tank) Treatment for Coral Boring Spionid Worms

Vested

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Yeah for sure. Post a pic of that if you have one. If I do reset, I’ll be thinking of some good idea’s on exactly how I want to peg, but for sure every single acro will be pegged, and easily removed when needed.

Not sure I’d do the TSA PVC method without being able to hide the PVC, but I love the idea. Maybe something similar, but hidden.

IMG_4714.jpeg





This is also an interesting idea. Letting the coral base down instead of out. Not sure if they will grow the same or as fast, but I’m sure they would.

IMG_4711.jpeg
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Similar to @JCOLE I drilled holes into the scape for plugs to fit into, but I wasn't a fan of seeing the actual plugs so they ended up being insert holes for each plate section.
 
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Only downside to that Is I cant swap/move colonies that are encrusted to different areas because each plate is molded specifically for one location.

You just have to make sure you pick placement carefully. I think the huge advantage is just being able to remove and dip the corals when needed. Looks great to me.


IMG_4715.png
 

Vested

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You just have to make sure you pick placement carefully. I think the huge advantage is just being able to remove and dip the corals when needed. Looks great to me.

Yea exactly thats the only downside. Personally I don't really move stuff once its glued anyways, entire tank is pretty much the same par/flow etc. Very happy with just being able to remove them
 
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I need to get with Thomas Baker also. He’s making some really unique plugs.


IMG_4722.jpeg
 
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What am I saying…95% of my corals are still alive!

You guys got me wanting to reset already. Gezz. Live rock with large 4” removable pegged disks or plates is getting me really excited. I better slow down here.
 
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My system and JCOLE had similar issues when it came to the Ivermectin lingering or getting bound to rock and substrate and leaching back out. Still not sure exactly what’s happening, but it’s definitely not going away. We both also saw phosphate take a dive to zero or near zero.

My system is an absolute mess right now with Cyano and Dino’s dominating. Very unstable and the ivermectin seems to be constantly fluctuating in my system which is consistent with this study below:

“IVM was quickly and widely distributed into the whole aquatic system in one day, and then was highly accumulated in organisms resulting in long-term residues. IVM was exchanged multiple times between the different media, which caused continuous fluctuations in the concentration of IVM in the water and sediment. It was worth noting that there was a second peak value of IVM in the fish and invertebrates after 30 days. The environmental fate of the IVM in the aquatic micro-ecological system showed that the drug was transferred from the fish to aquatic plants in the first seven days, and then gathered in the water and sediment, finally accumulating in the invertebrates. Our results indicated that an effective aquatic micro-ecological system was successfully established, and it could be applied to the study the environmental fate of IVM, which will aid the scientific use of this anti-parasitic agent during aquaculture.”



However, the other guy w/o issues is running Ozone. That could potentially be the reason why he’s not experiencing the same results as we did. The Ozone may help with degradation.

IMG_4726.jpeg
 

Minifoot77

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My system and JCOLE had similar issues when it came to the Ivermectin lingering or getting bound to rock and substrate and leaching back out. Still not sure exactly what’s happening, but it’s definitely not going away. We both also saw phosphate take a dive to zero or near zero.

My system is an absolute mess right now with Cyano and Dino’s dominating. Very unstable and the ivermectin seems to be constantly fluctuating in my system which is consistent with this study below:

“IVM was quickly and widely distributed into the whole aquatic system in one day, and then was highly accumulated in organisms resulting in long-term residues. IVM was exchanged multiple times between the different media, which caused continuous fluctuations in the concentration of IVM in the water and sediment. It was worth noting that there was a second peak value of IVM in the fish and invertebrates after 30 days. The environmental fate of the IVM in the aquatic micro-ecological system showed that the drug was transferred from the fish to aquatic plants in the first seven days, and then gathered in the water and sediment, finally accumulating in the invertebrates. Our results indicated that an effective aquatic micro-ecological system was successfully established, and it could be applied to the study the environmental fate of IVM, which will aid the scientific use of this anti-parasitic agent during aquaculture.”



However, the other guy w/o issues is running Ozone. That could potentially be the reason why he’s not experiencing the same results as we did. The Ozone may help with degradation.

IMG_4726.jpeg
Did you get your uv up yet? I'm trying to figure out if I wanna pull the trigger on a uv or ozone
 
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Did you get your uv up yet? I'm trying to figure out if I wanna pull the trigger on a uv or ozone

It’s up, but the bulb stops working. I’m waiting on two bulbs to deliver any minute now. As soon as get them, I’ll get it changed out and running in about 5 minutes.
 

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What would dosage be for removing coral from tank to dip in separate container?

Also any way to get the ivermectin without prescription?
 

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What would dosage be for removing coral from tank to dip in separate container?

Also any way to get the ivermectin without prescription?
Any farm store should have agrimectin
 
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What would dosage be for removing coral from tank to dip in separate container?

Also any way to get the ivermectin without prescription?

The dose I’ve been using with excellent results is below:

0.32mL of 1% Ivermectin per gallon, 0.16 per 1/2 gallon, or approximately 8-9 drops per 473mL. I dip for 1 hour.

This would equate to 32mL of 1% Ivermectin per 100 gallon water volume to kill them all dead in 1 hour which is more than 2x the potency I treated my tank with at 15mL per 100/G.
 

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What would dosage be for removing coral from tank to dip in separate container?

Also any way to get the ivermectin without prescription?
The dose I’ve been using with excellent results is below:

0.32mL of 1% Ivermectin per gallon, 0.16 per 1/2 gallon, or approximately 8-9 drops per 473mL. I dip for 1 hour.

This would equate to 32mL of 1% Ivermectin per 100 gallon water volume to kill them all dead in 1 hour which is more than 2x the potency I treated my tank with at 15mL per 100/G.
I would also like to add to put them in another vessel with GAC for a few hours after the dip. If you have to do them in batches, do them all in one day or change out the waters in the vessels. Lots of stuff dying, lots of potential ammonia. After back in the tank, more GAC. GAC is your friend, buy bunches and use it.

I was able to put snails back in, in a few days.
 

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do you think just because of their boring nature they kinda just take shelter and pull in for who knows how long?
think they have a similar mechanism to that of a Vermetid snail. They pull in, but cannot escape the medication as well. A Vermetid has a better shelter or door that protects it.
Yeah, Vermetids (as well as many other snails and many feather dusters) have an operculum, which is an appendage they use as a door to close themselves into their shell/tube - Spionids lack an operculum, so they wouldn't be able to keep the medication out as effectively.

Great documentation, OP.
 
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After further reading and research, It appears that Ivermectin peaks immediately at 0.5 hrs after initial dose and spreads through the system. Then it decreases one day later. After that it hits another peak at around 7 days (which is why I saw things really go to crap around that 6-7 day mark), and then at 30 days it will peak again. After that, there’s a slow decline over the next 70 days, and depending on the dose used, it could linger longer. Who knows what level will still be hanging around in my system.

IMG_4732.jpeg


At this point, I think I’m likely wasting my
time with UV, Carbon, H2O2, Ozone, etc…it’s probably not going to accomplish what I’m looking for. It’s pretty much a lost cause at this point. It’s not coming out easy and it won’t be anytime soon. I mean 95%
of the corals are alive, and if I continue to wait it out they may not be. So I might setup a 40B next to my tank that I have in the garage. Get my Radions mounted over it. Order 40lbs of live rock and start the cycle. Then cut the corals off the rocks and transfer over. I’ll be working on some DIY cement disks and pegging all the corals eventually, and while that is in process, I’ll probably drain my tank and thoroughly clean it..plumbing, overflow box, calcium reactor, etc. I’ll add all new media later on. Start with new live rock like I wanted to do originally, but didn’t because of the scape we built.

Not sure exactly what I’m gonna do, but I’m kind of excited to do it. I’m really not wanting to look at a bunch of pale or brown corals for a long time, and if I leave them in the system, I’m afraid I’d be looking at exactly that for the next 4-6 months. If I get them out into another system, at least I can start bringing their health back if that’s even possible. Sending ICP on my current tank is just shooting myself in the foot, and a waste of money. So I kind of want to start the process of going in the right direction and getting chemistry back on point for the corals to recover and then transfer back to a clean system with all live rock.

Still debating…not sure which direction I want to go, I just know I wanna enjoy the corals again. A lot of thoughts going through my mind right now on exactly what to do and how to do it. If anybody has any suggestions by all means, let me know. For the meantime, I will be running the UV and watching to see if it has any positive results. I’m not so sure H2O2 alone will be enough to make any difference.
 

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After further reading and research, It appears that Ivermectin peaks immediately at 0.5 hrs after initial dose and spreads through the system. Then it decreases one day later. After that it hits another peak at around 7 days (which is why I saw things really go to crap around that 6-7 day mark), and then at 30 days it will peak again. After that, there’s a slow decline over the next 70 days, and depending on the dose used, it could linger longer. Who knows what level will still be hanging around in my system.

IMG_4732.jpeg


At this point, I think I’m likely wasting my
time with UV, Carbon, H2O2, Ozone, etc…it’s probably not going to accomplish what I’m looking for. It’s pretty much a lost cause at this point. It’s not coming out easy and it won’t be anytime soon. I mean 95%
of the corals are alive, and if I continue to wait it out they may not be. So I might setup a 40B next to my tank that I have in the garage. Get my Radions mounted over it. Order 40lbs of live rock and start the cycle. Then cut the corals off the rocks and transfer over. I’ll be working on some DIY cement disks and pegging all the corals eventually, and while that is in process, I’ll probably drain my tank and thoroughly clean it..plumbing, overflow box, calcium reactor, etc. I’ll add all new media later on. Start with new live rock like I wanted to do originally, but didn’t because of the scape we built.

Not sure exactly what I’m gonna do, but I’m kind of excited to do it. I’m really not wanting to look at a bunch of pale or brown corals for a long time, and if I leave them in the system, I’m afraid I’d be looking at exactly that for the next 4-6 months. If I get them out into another system, at least I can start bringing their health back if that’s even possible. Sending ICP on my current tank is just shooting myself in the foot, and a waste of money. So I kind of want to start the process of going in the right direction and getting chemistry back on point for the corals to recover and then transfer back to a clean system with all live rock.

Still debating…not sure which direction I want to go, I just know I wanna enjoy the corals again. A lot of thoughts going through my mind right now on exactly what to do and how to do it. If anybody has any suggestions by all means, let me know. For the meantime, I will be running the UV and watching to see if it has any positive results. I’m not so sure H2O2 alone will be enough to make any difference.
Doesnt uv help speed up h202 effects anyway?
 

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“Although it is established that ivermectin is highly toxic towards invertebrates, it has been believed that ivermectin does not present notable risks to aquatic systems due to the rapid dissipation of the compound and binding to the sediment. Hence, fate and exchange of ivermectin between water and sediment were evaluated in this study. The ivermectin DT(50aqueous) in water was found to be 3-5 days, but concentrations increased and appeared to be stabile in the sediment at 20-30 ng kg(-1) with no assessable DT(50sed). Acute effects (first week) following ivermectin exposure were identified and cladocerans were particularly sensitive (nom. 100 ppt). Chronic responses (<day 97) were observed for the ecosystem structure and function (nom. 30 ppt). Long-term effects (>229 days) were identified for more sediment-active organisms (e.g. Chydoriae and Ephemeroptera) (nom. 1000 ppt). This is the first study to demonstrate the potential environmental risk of ivermectin at or below the predicted environmental concentration using a standardized test methodology (mesocosm) with minimal extrapolation uncertainty.”

I think you can consider your rock and anything else thats porous as soil? Im sure you’re reading the same articles… Doesn’t sound good. I think the uv will clear the water of the drug but it could continue leaching out of the rock and into the water for a very long time? Is the graph you posted how long invermectin lasts in *only* water?
 

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