You wouldn't have to treat the sump then.No I have a new one in the works
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
You wouldn't have to treat the sump then.No I have a new one in the works
I figured I'd treat the whole system because its probably gonna get restarted just down the roadYou wouldn't have to treat the sump then.
Oh no, you dosed it in your Reef?Hi all,
I picked up coral boring worms from a vendor here in the UK. The population grew much much faster than any other I have experienced before.
I reached out to a vet here for a prescription of Ivermectin. We had a lengthy discussion and he agreed with the protocol of 1ml per US gallon of 1% Ivermectin (Noromectin in my case).
I started a full tank treatment about 45min ago.
All of my pods, bristle worms, limpets and starfish are dead. The spionid infestation looks dead and they are hanging out of the tubes very limply. Spirorbid worms appear to still be alive.
I have quite a variety of fish in the tank, so far the only one showing distress is an anthia. My wrasse appeared to be in trouble but rebounded after about 15min.
To the person that suspected this may damage flatworms, you deserve a gold star…I didn’t know I had any flatworms. I do, or did.
Ivermectin seems to be incredibly harsh, but I don’t believe this is necessarily a bad thing. Time will tell over the next 24hrs.
Hi all,
I picked up coral boring worms from a vendor here in the UK. The population grew much much faster than any other I have experienced before.
I reached out to a vet here for a prescription of Ivermectin. We had a lengthy discussion and he agreed with the protocol of 1ml per US gallon of 1% Ivermectin (Noromectin in my case).
I started a full tank treatment about 45min ago.
All of my pods, bristle worms, limpets and starfish are dead. The spionid infestation looks dead and they are hanging out of the tubes very limply. Spirorbid worms appear to still be alive.
I have quite a variety of fish in the tank, so far the only one showing distress is an anthia. My wrasse appeared to be in trouble but rebounded after about 15min.
To the person that suspected this may damage flatworms, you deserve a gold star…I didn’t know I had any flatworms. I do, or did.
Ivermectin seems to be incredibly harsh, but I don’t believe this is necessarily a bad thing. Time will tell over the next 24hrs.
Have you seen any more copepods? Or did it wipe everything out? Did you check nitrates or ammonia? Alk consumption?Let’s start with the good, the bad and the ugly. I am not going to sugarcoat it.
Ugly: Fish have continued to die. The concentration I used is not safe for fish. They enter a paralytic state but will eventually die.
Bad: It is difficult to remove from the water column. A hydrophobic scum gets formed in the skimmer and on the water surface, also along the edges of the glass. I cannot guess how much is actually being removed at this point. Still to be noted as this progresses.
Good: It did what it was intended to, it kills boring worms very very well. My tank became worm soup, I had severely underestimated the amount of worms in the tank. I think there was 5x more than what I had assumed. It killed flatworms, I didn’t know I had flatworms and this is a tank I spend around 2hrs per day staring into. Corals are 100% unaffected, they get annoyed but have bounced back entirely .
So I have a few thoughts on this.
Would I do this again? Yes, but I would remove all fish and snails to a separate body of water.
I firmly don’t believe that dipping individual corals is a viable method of removing boring worms. I had far more dead worms than inhabited my corals lending credence to the worms being everywhere in an aquarium.
The flatworms have surprised and concerned me. I have never seen one in this tank until yesterday.
The loss of fish is self inflicted but still disheartening.
Despite that all, I think ivermectin is going to become a favourite tool for all reef keepers for prophylactic treatment of all new corals.
@Sisterlimonpot
Rich, I can’t tell you if the vermetids I have are dead or not, they were very agitated by the treatment and some appear to be hanging from the tubes but that isn’t to say they are dead. Give me a couple of days and I will let you know if this did kill them. Bear in mind I used a ridiculous concentration of 1ml per US gallon.
To everyone I am very much open to feedback and a discussion on this.
Isn’t that 0.1mL per gallon. Or 10mL per 100/G.I dosed my 500 gallon acropora DT with Ivermectin. I dosed the whole 50ml bottle, which comes out to 1ml per 12-14 gallons of system water.
I’m thinking even 1-2 mL per 100/G as a starting dose. It should be much gentler on the corals and reduce the spike. You could watch it every 30 min to 1 hr and increase by 1mL if too weak. Or just do a second treatment at later date that is 4 mL, 5mL, etc. Documentation and mitigation is key here. You want to start early morning and have a solid plan thought out. No other treatments or anything crazy going on before hand. I’m going to setup a QT to net my stunted fish out to let them recover in oxygenated untreated water while the treatment is in process. Will probably keep them out at that point to do a second treatment later. Then return them when I’m done.Regarding dosage I think it can be lower than 3 mL per quart. Honestly, I think maybe even 3 mL per gallon. And it could even be lower than that.
Everyone here understands this is NOT a REEF SAFE treatment. If you don’t, you aren’t reading the entirety of this thread.Post 143 I updated my experiences 6 days ago and fully warned about in tank treatment and it's definatly NOT reef safe.
I am sorry for your losses.
I found it interesting that some of your brittle stars were able to recover at this dose.1ml per gallon is a lot. I did 1mL per 10 gallons and that seemed way to much. I don't think we should do more than 1mL per 25 gallons, to be honest.
This same outcome continues to be repeated.Corals are 100% unaffected, they get annoyed but have bounced back entirely .
Did Carbon reduce this effect later?Bad: It is difficult to remove from the water column. A hydrophobic scum gets formed in the skimmer and on the water surface, also along the edges of the glass. I cannot guess how much is actually being removed at this point. Still to be noted as this progresses.
Fish will die for sure. All fish should be removed prior if possible (which is often impossible). I plan to net mine and out into a QT tank as they become stunned or start with a very low dose of 1-2 mL per 100/G and see if they are able to tolerate that. Not sure how ivermectin impacts oxygenation.Ugly: Fish have continued to die. The concentration I used is not safe for fish. They enter a paralytic state but will eventually die.
That massive amount of death is absolutely stunning for everybody. You should have fine mesh nets ready to remove what’s possible. Siphon, filter socks, floss, power filter ready on standby.Good: It did what it was intended to, it kills boring worms very very well. My tank became worm soup, I had severely underestimated the amount of worms in the tank. I think there was 5x more than what I had assumed. It killed flatworms, I didn’t know I had flatworms and this is a tank I spend around 2hrs per day staring into.
100% agree, the population is too large and they reinfect previously dipped corals.I firmly don’t believe that dipping individual corals is a viable method of removing boring worms.
This is really the most devastating thing, because most of us are unable to remove them.The loss of fish is self inflicted but still disheartening.
Definitely will be an excellent tool.Despite that all, I think ivermectin is going to become a favourite tool for all reef keepers for prophylactic treatment of all new corals.
Any update? I don’t think it kills them. They are able to close off their tubes. Devils from Hell.Rich, I can’t tell you if the vermetids I have are dead or not, they were very agitated by the treatment and some appear to be hanging from the tubes but that isn’t to say they are dead. Give me a couple of days and I will let you know if this did kill them.
That is a crazy high dose, but at least we know that completely nuked all the Spionid. Please update if you see any pop up later.Bear in mind I used a ridiculous concentration of 1ml per US gallon.
Isn’t that 0.1mL per gallon. Or 10mL per 100/G.
Ok I see. Yes, fully agree. I will start at the bottom end and work my way up if needed. I think these bigger doses are just not needed, but the primary goal is to kill the Spionid so they may be needed. We just need to find the most minimal dose to get them to mitigate fish losses. Once we zero in on a good target dose, it will be a little more safer. The massive amount of death will obviously still occur, but maybe we can get the dose low enough so that most fish will survive. Some will of course be more sensitive than others, and I’d still remove all fish if any way possible. Thank you for your detailed response on initial treatment.No. My display is 500 gallons but the system is larger. I calculated based on total system volume. I wouldn't recommend what I dosed as a good starting dose. I would do half or lower.
Just to be clear, did you say you treated the 500/G with Ivermectin and Bayer on same day or next day. Two medications back to back.?
Well, I appreciate all your documentation. I wish you would have waited on the ivermectin treatment though. That was a bad idea to use both back to back!!!Yes, same day. The Dylox seemed to work great with no issues on fish or corals. However, 30 minutes after Ivermectin is when I knew I messed up.
I am not a good example for this treatment as I did not treat as someone normally would. I just wanted to let others know the experience I had but would not advocate anyone to do what I did.