fotuskyt

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Hi everyone, I posted recently and a lot of you had great answers so I’m asking more questions.

I’ve only ever had beta fish before and that was an extremely long time ago. I was going to get back into the hobby and get another beta when I found myself in the position of inheriting someone’s full 20 gal set up with two clown fish for extremely cheap because they are moving and can’t take it with. The timing is not ideal as I would have loved to do extensive research weeks before making the decision to have a salt water aquarium and have the tank cycled and ready but here we are. I’m picking up the equipment, tank and fish today which is an hour away. I plan to siphon as much existing water as possible into five gallon buckets and transport the fish in one of the buckets.

All of the videos I have watched have been about how to set up the tank but none with enough information to go into this with the confidence needed. Like I said, not an ideal situation but we’re working with it. She’s giving me the filter, heater, lights, food, water test kit, salt and a cleaning kit. Is there anything else I need? I was planning on replacing the existing substrate with live sand, can I just add the existing water to the new sand? What does your weekly maintenance schedule look like? Any advice appreciated, please be nice lol
 

Cell

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You have a lot to learn in very little time.

You can re-use the water but ideally add some fresh made water to it or plan on a water change tomorrow.

Use new sand as planned, rinse it thoroughly. You can add it when setting up.

Keep existing rock/bio media wet when transporting.

Is there a powerhead for flow?

I would replace the heaters, but it doesn't have to be today.
 
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fotuskyt

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Thanks for the answer! The owner I’m getting the tank from is making a fresh 5gal of water to top off with. If I do the water change tomorrow, it’s just 20% correct?
 

Cell

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Yeah. I'd recommend it either way after moving a tank.

5g of fresh water to "top off" with is not for a water change, if that's the exact way it was worded by the seller. That could be freshwater to replace evaporated saltwater.

A water change requires replacing existing saltwater with newly mixed saltwater. Topping off requires adding freshwater to replace evaporated saltwater.
 

F i s h y

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Thanks for the answer! The owner I’m getting the tank from is making a fresh 5gal of water to top off with. If I do the water change tomorrow, it’s just 20% correct?
Do you have any local reef clubs, or an lfs that you can find a local mentor from? Ideally you want to find someone that can take a look at all the equipment, the fish, everything, and let you know what your priorities should be. If you can't find a local mentor it would be wise to seek one here and use private messaging to ask questions. Otherwise you will get lots of different advice and answers which may be more confusing. Use the private message to learn from someone and then make a build thread to document your progress.

My advice...
You will have troubles and there will be times that you feel like nothing you are doing is working. Stay the course. Be consistent. This hobby is extremely rewarding for those that do.
 

Cell

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The Supreme Guide stickied at the top of this forum is a great place for you to start your reefing education. Ideally, you would have reviewed it weeks ago, prior to getting the tank, but better late than never.
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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Thanks for the answer! The owner I’m getting the tank from is making a fresh 5gal of water to top off with. If I do the water change tomorrow, it’s just 20% correct?
I guess that means they are not giving you their rodi unit, you will need one. Its extremely recommended to not use tap water. If you don't have a rodi unit, you can buy distilled water from the grocery store. We constantly need freshwater for water changes and for daily top off. Having your own rodi unit makes it much easier than having to buy it all the time.
 
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fotuskyt

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I guess that means they are not giving you their rodi unit, you will need one. Its extremely recommended to not use tap water. If you don't have a rodi unit, you can buy distilled water from the grocery store. We constantly need freshwater for water changes and for daily top off. Having your own rodi unit makes it much easier than having to buy it all the time.
I have a regular RO system and plan on getting the DI attachment for it soon
 

slogan315

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I also began my reef journey with a running system back in February. Did lots of research before getting it, but just like you said, there’s a ton of info on starting systems fresh, but not enough on taking over a running system.

everything is going good now, but honestly I regret not just giving the 2 fish and few corals to the local fish store, and starting fresh. I have spent way more in equipment and time trying to fix the problems I created by rushing and not knowing what I was doing. That being said, I did learn a ton from having to deal with and overcome problems.

But, if you want to keep it running, go for it! Your goal today is to get the system from their house to yours, with no loses, and have it stable enough to go to sleep tonight.

Key things to focus on: salinity, temperature, oxygen levels, ammonia.

If you use existing water, salinity should be good. Minimize temperature swings during move. Their system should have enough oxygen exchange if it’s been running. If something makes bubbles, or causes the surface to ripple, air exchange should be sufficient. High ammonia levels are toxic and can poison fish. Don’t reuse their sand, or do cleaning of rocks today, as stirring up settled waste can cause ammonia spikes.

Nutrients, feeding schedules, lights, etc., are tomorrows problem. Today is just about moving it and providing essential life support.

Have extra saltwater and freshwater at your home. You will spill saltwater during the move, and if like me, will be a few gallons short of having enough water to run the filtration. Fresh water is needed to replenish evaporation. You’ll need small amounts daily. You can get both saltwater and fresh rodi water from your LFS for about $1/$0.50 per gallon.

I feel like I keep wanting to list things, but it’s already an essay. Good luck, it’s a fun ride.
 
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fotuskyt

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I also began my reef journey with a running system back in February. Did lots of research before getting it, but just like you said, there’s a ton of info on starting systems fresh, but not enough on taking over a running system.

everything is going good now, but honestly I regret not just giving the 2 fish and few corals to the local fish store, and starting fresh. I have spent way more in equipment and time trying to fix the problems I created by rushing and not knowing what I was doing. That being said, I did learn a ton from having to deal with and overcome problems.

But, if you want to keep it running, go for it! Your goal today is to get the system from their house to yours, with no loses, and have it stable enough to go to sleep tonight.

Key things to focus on: salinity, temperature, oxygen levels, ammonia.

If you use existing water, salinity should be good. Minimize temperature swings during move. Their system should have enough oxygen exchange if it’s been running. If something makes bubbles, or causes the surface to ripple, air exchange should be sufficient. High ammonia levels are toxic and can poison fish. Don’t reuse their sand, or do cleaning of rocks today, as stirring up settled waste can cause ammonia spikes.

Nutrients, feeding schedules, lights, etc., are tomorrows problem. Today is just about moving it and providing essential life support.

Have extra saltwater and freshwater at your home. You will spill saltwater during the move, and if like me, will be a few gallons short of having enough water to run the filtration. Fresh water is needed to replenish evaporation. You’ll need small amounts daily. You can get both saltwater and fresh rodi water from your LFS for about $1/$0.50 per gallon.

I feel like I keep wanting to list things, but it’s already an essay. Good luck, it’s a fun ride.
Okay so the clowns are home. I forgot to mention that there’s a blenny too but he hides so much. I put fresh live sand in and installed a powerhead like someone suggested. About 5 min ago I tested the salinity with a refractometer and it was 1.024 and did the tests in the saltwater master test kit. I attached the results to that below but I think it looks pretty good but I can’t really tell where the ammonias at because it’s kind of green but not quite like the .50. When I was getting the fish the owner told me that they had been using their chicago city tap water and de chlorinating it which was shocking to me. That being said, when should I do a water change using RO water and how much of a percentage should the change be? Any recommendations for ATO’s? And in the future will I be able to add a cleaner shrimp or is that too many creatures in a 20 gal. Also is it normal for the clowns to pick a corner and just chill by the filter? They swim around and have explored but they really seem to like the top right corner.
 

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CO2TLEY

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Not an expert but i’d do 10-15% water changes bi weekly with fresh ro salt water. I’d also recommend upgrading the api test kit with Hanna checkers
 

vetteguy53081

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Thanks for the answer! The owner I’m getting the tank from is making a fresh 5gal of water to top off with. If I do the water change tomorrow, it’s just 20% correct?
Agree with Cell- Fresh water and sand will pay for itself. Use a good liquid bacteria to cycle tank such as MicroBacter 7 or XLM. When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
 
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fotuskyt

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Agree with Cell- Fresh water and sand will pay for itself. Use a good liquid bacteria to cycle tank such as MicroBacter 7 or XLM. When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
I just posted the test results if you want to take a look at that and yesterday I did end up putting microbacter 7 in.
 

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Hi everyone, I posted recently and a lot of you had great answers so I’m asking more questions.

I’ve only ever had beta fish before and that was an extremely long time ago. I was going to get back into the hobby and get another beta when I found myself in the position of inheriting someone’s full 20 gal set up with two clown fish for extremely cheap because they are moving and can’t take it with. The timing is not ideal as I would have loved to do extensive research weeks before making the decision to have a salt water aquarium and have the tank cycled and ready but here we are. I’m picking up the equipment, tank and fish today which is an hour away. I plan to siphon as much existing water as possible into five gallon buckets and transport the fish in one of the buckets.

All of the videos I have watched have been about how to set up the tank but none with enough information to go into this with the confidence needed. Like I said, not an ideal situation but we’re working with it. She’s giving me the filter, heater, lights, food, water test kit, salt and a cleaning kit. Is there anything else I need? I was planning on replacing the existing substrate with live sand, can I just add the existing water to the new sand? What does your weekly maintenance schedule look like? Any advice appreciated, please be nice lol
BRS 52 weeks of reefing is a great start to understanding the hobby. Got me my 120 gallon up and running
 

vetteguy53081

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I just posted the test results if you want to take a look at that and yesterday I did end up putting microbacter 7 in.
I urge you to get a second test verification by taking a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
Results can be sketchy at times with these kits.
 
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fotuskyt

fotuskyt

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I urge you to get a second test verification by taking a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
Results can be sketchy at times with these kits.
Yesterday I went to petsmart and they did it but she said she didn’t have a salt water kit so it wasn’t very trusting information. There is a LFS that focuses on saltwater so I will go there today instead!
 

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id say test results are 7.8, 0,0,0, but pics are harder to tell then actual. If all the rock was cycled you shouldn't have to worry about ammonia but you should see some nitrate. Was the water 100% new?
 
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fotuskyt

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id say test results are 7.8, 0,0,0, but pics are harder to tell then actual. If all the rock was cycled you shouldn't have to worry about ammonia but you should see some nitrate. Was the water 100% new?
No I would say 70% was existing water and 30% was new. I didn’t bother rinsing the rocks off because I didn’t want to disturb too much of the existing organisms growing
 

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