NEED HELP BEFORE EVERYTHING DIES

[Dburr1014]

I would go with MnFish1 on this one.

Seems like he actually read the PO's first post and replied accordingly.

IMO, don't mess with lights until you know what the water parameters are. Everything else is in left field, IMO.

 

[MnFish1]

I would go with MnFish1 on this one.

Seems like he actually read the PO's first post and replied accordingly.

IMO, don't mess with lights until you know what the water parameters are. Everything else is in left field, IMO.

Actually - the issue is that it's not clear 'what' was done to the lights - if he adjusted them lower - that would be the good thing (IMHO) to do.

Also - What I tend to do with corals - is put them somewhere - measure the PAR to hopefully match fairly closely where I got them (if possible to know), and then let them adjust to any flow differences. As someone else said - a lot has been done - and you're right the parameters have to be wrong - but (I can't see the video) - the pictures of the coral look merely like they are reacting to a change - rather than 'dying'.

One other parameter is when the corals were bought - could it have been a salinity change. to @Pass12345 I would suggest strongly - if you make a change - let things adjust - and try not to 'chase your tail'.

Additionally, though I don't agree with test strips per se, If you get the results that you posted - and they are correct - that would be the first thing to re-adjust (IMIHO) -but with the results posted its really unclear what's going on. I hope you didn't try to adjust your pH with a chemical based on those tests (like add acid to decrease KH, or increase something else (bicarb, kale, carbonate, etc) to increase your alkalinity.

Not trying to beat up on you you're new - just giving my advice. It's extremely tempting to change something when something seems off - if you are relatively new to reefing. just make them one at a time. Welcome to the site - and I hope things turn up - and you can give more information!!

 

[Biochembob]

It makes no difference - the test kits do not explain his problems. The tests may be erroneous - but they cannot measure at the numbers provided. More information is needed - and I would do a large water change with fresh mixed water. EDIT - Just so everyone understands - I'm not sure it's possible to have a KH of 40 and a pH of 6 in an aquarium. So - in this case - I meant merely that the tests are not compatible - and can't explain the issue. He needs 'accurate, correct' tests. Then it's possible to comment IMHO.

If he is using API strips hardness is in ppm. So that is like 2 or 3 GH. His water is very acidic and soft.

Edit: None of his numbers make sense. I think he's probably running really low salinity. I think he is confusing 26 ppt with 1.026 salinity. He needs to get a professional to test his water.

OP do you have a local fish saltwater store?

 

[MnFish1]

If he is using API strips hardness is in ppm. So that is like 2 or 3 GH. His water is very acidic and soft.

Edit: None of his numbers make sense. I think he's probably running really low salinity. I think he is confusing 26 ppt with 1.026 salinity. He needs to get a professional to test his water.

OP do you have a local fish saltwater store?

Long story short - I totally agree with you.

Not sure which tests he's using - assume API test strips 5 in one - the GH is not measurable in saltwater (per this test). Its the KH I was concerned about - and I also asked which units he was using - looking at one of the test strip kits from API, it says '40' is in the 'danger range' - The test I'm reading says its in ppm - thats an alkalinity of 2-3 - which could be causing the problems - according to this calculator: https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/AlkConversion.php .

There are a lot of people that use .025, .026 in place of 1.025, etc. However It is important to note that 1.026 is not 'salinity' its specific gravity. All of that said - I did not know (still am not sure - which test strips he was using (but I assume API) - but at least an alkalinity of 2-3 DKH makes more sense than 40 - if the pH is as low as he is stating. And this could be causing all of the problems (again assuming an accurate test)

 

[Projects with Sam]

The tests may be erroneous - but they cannot measure at the numbers provided. More information is needed

how can one say that in the same sentence?
This was way early in the thread... I didnt bother reading the rest because we shouldnt be talking lighting schedules unless we have some better information about the OP's parameters.

 

[Pass12345]

Morning numbers

 

[MnFish1]

how can one say that in the same sentence?
This was way early in the thread... I didnt bother reading the rest because we shouldnt be talking lighting schedules unless we have some better information about the OP's parameters.

I know that - what you suggested was exactly what I wrote. I.e. we need more information, and lighting should be a lower priority. I've written that since the beginning of the thread.

 

[MnFish1]

Morning numbers

Where are those from - meaning what test kit?

Your parameters are much different than before - your alkalinity is perfect - and except for your PO4 being low (not sure how accurate these test are) - And your Ca being way to high (which again I'm not sure how accurate these tests are - or which ones you're using). Can you post a picture of the whole tank?

 

[Projects with Sam]

I think thats an API automated tester?

 

[CoralB]

.

 

[MnFish1]

I think thats an API automated tester?

Don't know - either way there are some things off. Coralwise - (I think it was an API spin) - I think the Ca and PO4 balance might be an issue

 

[vetteguy53081]

I think thats an API automated tester?

It was originally LaMotte tester , then became API spintest and now referred to as WaterLink Spin touch FF

 

[MnFish1]

IMHO - reading everything again - your PO4 is low, your Ca is high - assuming the tests are correct. I would stop fiddling with everything - perhaps lower your light - if you drastically changed your flow - decrease it some.

 

[pap2]

There is a definite error - I do not believe your pH could be 6. The KH should. be between 6 and 8 - not 40. I do not think it's chemically possible to have these parameters in a reef tank.

I AGREE.............different test kits maybe?

 

[MnFish1]

I AGREE.............different test kits maybe?

I think its determined (though not sure) - that his results are in PPM