White Spot/Ich

chariton

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Hello I am facing a problem. I bought a Leucosternon Tang everything was fine and after two weeks in my tank stopped eating and got “white” as shown in the photo. It died then my mandarin died and then I lost my wrasse in the sand it going out of the sand for a while in the morning and again back. Some
Days after that I noticed my blue tang got ich my fox face also and Midas scratching on the sand. I bought Medic from Polypab and I decided to go with the high dosage( now I am on day 6 of dosing) and I don’t know if I can see any result other than corals stressed and snails dying!Fishes are swimming and eating without problem. Doctor wrasse eating spots from fishes.
My question is should I keep dosing?what do you suggest? Emptying the tank from fish(a bit difficult) moving them to separate space in the sump (no connect with the other system) and keeping them there for 6-8 weeks will it help removing ich from the system?or I will stress my fish without reason?

Thank you in advance for your help.

IMG_8387.jpeg IMG_8400.jpeg IMG_8581.jpeg IMG_8582.jpeg IMG_8589.jpeg IMG_8588.jpeg IMG_8587.jpeg IMG_8451.jpeg
 
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chariton

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Here are some videos. Ich is not that visible only on fins and blue tang eye and also Midas has turned black!






 

Jekyl

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#fishmedic

Not sold on just being ich as the fish died quickly. Also the products being used aren't going to be sufficient. A seperate tank with copper is going to be necessary and a fallow period for the display. Here is the method that should be followed.

 
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chariton

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#fishmedic

Not sold on just being ich as the fish died quickly. Also the products being used aren't going to be sufficient. A seperate tank with copper is going to be necessary and a fallow period for the display. Here is the method that should be followed.

I thought of QT but I was afraid of stressing them while trying to catch them. But for now it’s the only solutions I was thinking too
 

Jekyl

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I thought of QT but I was afraid of stressing them while trying to catch them. But for now it’s the only solutions I was thinking too
This is the argument for starting treatment immediately vs waiting until symptoms present. Some things like velvet are fast acting and the waiting could actually be deadly.

Others more knowledgeable than I will chime in soon. However getting a hospital tank at least set up is probably a good thing to do.
 
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chariton

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I have come across through velvet and trust me this is not velvet. I lost all the fishes within a week and now is more than two weeks with these spots and not all fishes. But for sure QT is the solution.
 

MnFish1

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sorry to hear it - would guess its a parasite - hard to tell
 

MnFish1

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I have come across through velvet and trust me this is not velvet. I lost all the fishes within a week and now is more than two weeks with these spots and not all fishes. But for sure QT is the solution.
it sounds like velvet.
 
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chariton

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it sounds like velvet.
I think velvet moves faster!this is some kind of parasite but I will definitely try something else than medic. I ll try first to catch them(a bit hard) and then I’ll go with copper.
 

vetteguy53081

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Here are some videos. Ich is not that visible only on fins and blue tang eye and also Midas has turned black!







Sorry to see and agree on velvet being the culprit as suggested by MnFish and Jekyl. Moving forward, plan on no fish for at least 7 weeks UNLESS you have or will set up a Quarantine tank and quarantine fish at least 60 days. . . 30 days in coppersafe at 2.25 and 17 days in Prazi Pro apply dose 8 days apart X 2 applications and leaving the display tank WITHOUT fish, however you can safely add coral if you desire but I would wait on that and focus on the quarantining of new fish
 
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chariton

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Sorry to see and agree on velvet being the culprit as suggested by MnFish and Jekyl. Moving forward, plan on no fish for at least 7 weeks UNLESS you have or will set up a Quarantine tank and quarantine fish at least 60 days. . . 30 days in coppersafe at 2.25 and 17 days in Prazi Pro apply dose 8 days apart X 2 applications and leaving the display tank WITHOUT fish, however you can safely add coral if you desire but I would wait on that and focus on the quarantining of new fish
I am checking my records and last time I had velvet the infected fish got in the tank 19th of January and by 5th of February I lost 17 fishes! Now fish get in the tank on 10th of may and I. Can see completely different images!
Check the images I have from then. Now it’s not the same(maybe I am wrong). How many days does velvet need to infect the fish?

IMG_3193.jpeg IMG_3194.jpeg IMG_3192.jpeg IMG_3205.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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I am checking my records and last time I had velvet the infected fish got in the tank 19th of January and by 5th of February I lost 17 fishes! Now fish get in the tank on 10th of may and I. Can see completely different images!
Check the images I have from then. Now it’s not the same(maybe I am wrong). How many days does velvet need to infect the fish?

IMG_3193.jpeg IMG_3194.jpeg IMG_3192.jpeg IMG_3205.jpeg
These fish are infested with ich and i can recommend what to do but based on the looks of the fish - cant say what the outcome can/will be. You want to set up a quarantine tannk and get right to treatment level using
coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
 
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chariton

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These fish are infested with ich and i can recommend what to do but based on the looks of the fish - cant say what the outcome can/will be. You want to set up a quarantine tannk and get right to treatment level using
coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
I am planning to use the third cabin of my sump. It’s separate from the other two cabins. It’s 46litres but I won’t fill it up I ll use 30-35 litres so I can go on with the water changes easily
 

MnFish1

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I am planning to use the third cabin of my sump. It’s separate from the other two cabins. It’s 46litres but I won’t fill it up I ll use 30-35 litres so I can go on with the water changes easily
Many of these fish seemingly will die - based on their appearance without treatment for their disease - whether ich or velvet - the treatment is copper - best wishes.
 

vetteguy53081

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I am planning to use the third cabin of my sump. It’s separate from the other two cabins. It’s 46litres but I won’t fill it up I ll use 30-35 litres so I can go on with the water changes easily
If sump is connected with tank, I would avoid uding this section of sump. Separate tank is best
 

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