Regal hippo tang possible fluke or ich

[george9]

With refrence to this I found selcon on Amazon and it referred me to this almost multi vitamin that looks like a powder you mix in water and dose. Did you use this or another product for vitamins??
Boyd Enterprises ABE16707 Marine Vitachem for Aquarium, 4-Ounce https://a.co/d/98R3I4S

Yes, I use the Vitachem for vitamins and this is the selcon you want. I'm not sure what the powder is lol

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Okay and I will follow your method of photo and video daily at same time and if they stay the same spot and it ends up being mucus cones what is best method for that? Just beef up diet and continue process, or copper?

Only fear with copper is it’s a big tang and I don’t wanna apply a ton of stress by removing it from the 180 and putting it in a 40g which is biggest tank I could spare for it.

If it is only mucus plugs/cones, they will go away on their own if the stress issue is identified and reduced.

Yes - capturing and moving big fish to a treatment tank is always risky.

 

[ajremington68]

Yes, I use the Vitachem for vitamins and this is the selcon you want. I'm not sure what the powder is lol

Hey, I have both selcon and Vitachem liquid coming in from amazon today. How did you use these products to help your tang once it had mucus plugs? soak pellets, if so how many drops of each and what type of pellets and how long do you let it soak? Also, do you cut flow to make sure the tang sees and gets the food?

These are the two products I bought.
Selcon (https://a.co/d/1w17gUb)
Vitachem (https://a.co/d/7qAHJ9a)

 

[george9]

Hey, I have both selcon and Vitachem liquid coming in from amazon today. How did you use these products to help your tang once it had mucus plugs? soak pellets, if so how many drops of each and what type of pellets and how long do you let it soak? Also, do you cut flow to make sure the tang sees and gets the food?

These are the two products I bought.
Selcon (https://a.co/d/1w17gUb)
Vitachem (https://a.co/d/7qAHJ9a)

I usually put a few pellets in a small dish and just a couple drops of each to saturate the pellets. Give it 5-10 mins for them to become soft and saturated and drop in the tank! You can continue whatever typical feeding regimen you do, I usually cut the pump rippling the surface of my tank so the pellets don't immediately blow into the rocks but it depends whatever your fish are used to!

 

[ajremington68]

I usually put a few pellets in a small dish and just a couple drops of each to saturate the pellets. Give it 5-10 mins for them to become soft and saturated and drop in the tank! You can continue whatever typical feeding regimen you do, I usually cut the pump rippling the surface of my tank so the pellets don't immediately blow into the rocks but it depends whatever your fish are used to!

Thanks!

 

[sunshinesea]

Looks like ich to me. These fish are prone to that. They are stronger than say a powder blue/brown, but they get it on and off.

 

[ajremington68]

Looks like ich to me. These fish are prone to that. They are stronger than say a powder blue/brown, but they get it on and off.

I belive you are right...

 

[ajremington68]

So I am seeking more help. I am now past denial stage and it is for sure ich.
Now, I know it needs to be addressed but I am of the understanding that Ich is now always in my tank and that's fine and I deal with it. The hippo tang lost the spots and they have came back and I would say a little worst, and now my tomini tang had 1 spot yesterday and now 5 or so today. So I know its not mucus but rather ICH. I don't have the option to pull them and treat with copper or pull all the fish and go fallow for 72 days.
I have a Pentair 40w uv running at 240 which is in the range for protozoa on at all times in my sump. I have Selecon and Vitachem that I am putting 5 drops of each in 2 pinches of pellets and mixing and letting soak for 10-20mins and then feeding which all the fish go crazy for. I bought Polyp Lab Medic on amazon and waiting on that to arrive. Not sure what that will do or if it'll work but figure I would try.
Has anyone had success with Medic from Polyp Lab? If so give me all the details of how you dosed, how much you dosed, how bad your problem was, and how long it took to achieve no ich on your fishes.

Will post current photos of my Hippo and Tomini once the white lights come on.

If you have any input or ideas or anything you did that I could try please post it! I know best option is pull and treat in copper but give me something I can do with keeping them in my tank that has corals and inverts.

 

[george9]

So I am seeking more help. I am now past denial stage and it is for sure ich.
Now, I know it needs to be addressed but I am of the understanding that Ich is now always in my tank and that's fine and I deal with it. The hippo tang lost the spots and they have came back and I would say a little worst, and now my tomini tang had 1 spot yesterday and now 5 or so today. So I know its not mucus but rather ICH. I don't have the option to pull them and treat with copper or pull all the fish and go fallow for 72 days.
I have a Pentair 40w uv running at 240 which is in the range for protozoa on at all times in my sump. I have Selecon and Vitachem that I am putting 5 drops of each in 2 pinches of pellets and mixing and letting soak for 10-20mins and then feeding which all the fish go crazy for. I bought Polyp Lab Medic on amazon and waiting on that to arrive. Not sure what that will do or if it'll work but figure I would try.
Has anyone had success with Medic from Polyp Lab? If so give me all the details of how you dosed, how much you dosed, how bad your problem was, and how long it took to achieve no ich on your fishes.

Will post current photos of my Hippo and Tomini once the white lights come on.

If you have any input or ideas or anything you did that I could try please post it! I know best option is pull and treat in copper but give me something I can do with keeping them in my tank that has corals and inverts.

Unfortunately the only way to fully eradicate it is by removing the fish, treating with copper and letting the tank go fallow for a while.

Since you said this isn’t an option, ich management is still possible although you must keep stress to a minimum at all times and feed a very high quality diet. I don’t like this method just because to me it’s like a ticking time bomb, where one day there will be a random stressor and you can get an ich outbreak out of the blue. And this could potentially be deadly to everyone, not trying to scare you but it’s just the reality of it. PLENTY of people around R2R employ this method with success, though and you’ll see many threads about it.
Personally I am leery of adding chemicals or any sort of reef safe ich “cures” directly to a reef because I just can’t imagine there isn’t some sort of impact to the entire ecosystem but some people have had success with them but I’d bet they are likely just lucky. I’d focus more on good health through nutrition and minimize stress rather than adding all kinds of bottled cures.

having a UV sterilizer is a great help. Ich is always present in the ocean and fish are able to fight it off because the ocean is massive. It is much harder to manage in a closed system.

How are the fish looking now?

 

[ajremington68]

Unfortunately the only way to fully eradicate it is by removing the fish, treating with copper and letting the tank go fallow for a while.

Since you said this isn’t an option, ich management is still possible although you must keep stress to a minimum at all times and feed a very high quality diet. I don’t like this method just because to me it’s like a ticking time bomb, where one day there will be a random stressor and you can get an ich outbreak out of the blue. And this could potentially be deadly to everyone, not trying to scare you but it’s just the reality of it. PLENTY of people around R2R employ this method with success, though and you’ll see many threads about it.
Personally I am leery of adding chemicals or any sort of reef safe ich “cures” directly to a reef because I just can’t imagine there isn’t some sort of impact to the entire ecosystem but some people have had success with them but I’d bet they are likely just lucky. I’d focus more on good health through nutrition and minimize stress rather than adding all kinds of bottled cures.

having a UV sterilizer is a great help. Ich is always present in the ocean and fish are able to fight it off because the ocean is massive. It is much harder to manage in a closed system.

How are the fish looking now?

I have deployed polyp lab medic, 20g water changes vacuuming the WHOLE sand bed EVERYTIME. Changing floss every 3 days and feeding selcon, vitachem on pellets and garlic on nori once a day and mysis and brine frozen as well. And fish are looking good. I got a good deal on a 40g and a copper tester and copper power so I will be treating the fish, but I am waiting for the fish trap to come in on sat or sun.

But the hippo has noticeably less spots and the Tomini went from like 10-20 spots down to maybe 5.

I have only been dosing the medic for 2 days tho but the beefed up foods for maybe 2 weeks.

 

[george9]

I have deployed polyp lab medic, 20g water changes vacuuming the WHOLE sand bed EVERYTIME. Changing floss every 3 days and feeding selcon, vitachem on pellets and garlic on nori once a day and mysis and brine frozen as well. And fish are looking good. I got a good deal on a 40g and a copper tester and copper power so I will be treating the fish, but I am waiting for the fish trap to come in on sat or sun.

But the hippo has noticeably less spots and the Tomini went from like 10-20 spots down to maybe 5.

I have only been dosing the medic for 2 days tho but the beefed up foods for maybe 2 weeks.

Great! Sounds like you have a good handle on it

I know it’s not fun to have to do this but we’ve allll been there unfortunately. You’ll come out on the other side with healthy fish and lots more experience!

 

[ajremington68]

@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081
So I got a 40g and have it all cycled with old media and just got the hippo and tomini tang in. In the mean time I have been feeding nori soaked in garlic and selcon and vitachem soaked pellets and frozen mysis and brine. They defiantly look better than before but I have the equipment so I am going to treat them.
However I am ify if my emperor angel looks normal or not. It is going thru transition. Not getting picked on. And eats like a tank. But I noticed these splotchy white spots on it prob 2-3 weeks ago and I’m not sure if it’s pattern, or stress, or a disease. I can house him in the 40 for the copper treatment, but I know angels don’t do too incredibly well in copper treatments.
Any thoughts based off these photos? Thanks!

 

[vetteguy53081]

@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081
So I got a 40g and have it all cycled with old media and just got the hippo and tomini tang in. In the mean time I have been feeding nori soaked in garlic and selcon and vitachem soaked pellets and frozen mysis and brine. They defiantly look better than before but I have the equipment so I am going to treat them.
However I am ify if my emperor angel looks normal or not. It is going thru transition. Not getting picked on. And eats like a tank. But I noticed these splotchy white spots on it prob 2-3 weeks ago and I’m not sure if it’s pattern, or stress, or a disease. I can house him in the 40 for the copper treatment, but I know angels don’t do too incredibly well in copper treatments.
Any thoughts based off these photos? Thanks!

The emperor looks to have ich and will need treatment with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off

 

[ajremington68]

The emperor looks to have ich and will need treatment with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off

Okay I can do this. Also with it being a angel it’ll be fine?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Okay I can do this. Also with it being a angel it’ll be fine?

Yes. They do well in coppersafe

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081
So I got a 40g and have it all cycled with old media and just got the hippo and tomini tang in. In the mean time I have been feeding nori soaked in garlic and selcon and vitachem soaked pellets and frozen mysis and brine. They defiantly look better than before but I have the equipment so I am going to treat them.
However I am ify if my emperor angel looks normal or not. It is going thru transition. Not getting picked on. And eats like a tank. But I noticed these splotchy white spots on it prob 2-3 weeks ago and I’m not sure if it’s pattern, or stress, or a disease. I can house him in the 40 for the copper treatment, but I know angels don’t do too incredibly well in copper treatments.
Any thoughts based off these photos? Thanks!

Emperor angels are notorious for showing those faded spots due to a few different reasons. Ich is one cause, but so are flukes. Can you see white pinhead spots on any other fish? If so, that points to ich. Are the angel’s eyes cloudy/milky? If so, that points to flukes. Does the angel scratch on things or flick its fins? That’s also a sign of flukes. The trouble is, ich and flukes haven’t different treatments so you need to know which way to treat.

 

[ajremington68]

Emperor angels are notorious for showing those faded spots due to a few different reasons. Ich is one cause, but so are flukes. Can you see white pinhead spots on any other fish? If so, that points to ich. Are the angel’s eyes cloudy/milky? If so, that points to flukes. Does the angel scratch on things or flick its fins? That’s also a sign of flukes. The trouble is, ich and flukes haven’t different treatments so you need to know which way to treat.

Other fish have has white pointy things (my hippo tang) but the emperor does have cloudy eyes as well.

Could I treat my hippo, tomini, and emperor in copper for 32 days and then treat whatever I have to for flukes???

Also I got my emperor angel tonight and it S well z the hippo and tomini are in a 40g qt with copper at 2.28ppm. So I will start the 32 days tomorrow.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Other fish have has white pointy things (my hippo tang) but the emperor does have cloudy eyes as well.

Could I treat my hippo, tomini, and emperor in copper for 32 days and then treat whatever I have to for flukes???

Also I got my emperor angel tonight and it S well z the hippo and tomini are in a 40g qt with copper at 2.28ppm. So I will start the 32 days tomorrow.

Flukes typically kill fish more slowly than do protozoans, so that’s the reason for using coppersafe first. However, if the fish is showing symptoms of flukes, the 30 day copper treatment may be too long in terms of the flukes getting much worse. Some people have run copper and prazi at the same time…..

 

[ajremington68]

Yesterday morning I added the last bit of copper power and tested and got 2.25ppm with a Hannah checker. Now 2 days ago in the middle of the night, I got the emperor into the qt. So he has been in for one day of copper but his skin is almost falling off??? Can you give the video a look and tell me if this is right, or if it’s something else. Also, note there is some ammonia in the tank going to do a water change on it. Could this be ammonia burn?

slight but ammonia is in between 0.25-0.50ppm. It was a quick setup QT tho but I added a 3 pound bag of ceramic pieces to the canister filter I put on it.

 

[RV Reefs]

Video isn’t working. Could you try again? @Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081