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Dlucero

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Okay. Honestly I think your advice has been nothing but solid. Let’s stop the peroxide as proposed. What would your next approach to this be besides bacteria dosing.
What do you want to fix ? General questions leave to much error . This whole group will help you ! We just need focus of what is most important and want to be done first .
 

wjm6449

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What do you want to fix ? General questions leave to much error . This whole group will help you ! We just need focus of what is most important and want to be done first .
Hm. Well. First fix would be get rid of the Dino’s and have the tank in a somewhat welcoming manner to 1k worth of coral coming Monday. I’ll get pods, I can do a lights out for the tank for three days (the LPs and zoas can manage). I’ll also get the bacteria and dose. Where would you go from there. Stabilize my numbers? My nitrates and phos have pretty much sat steady.
 

Reefing_addiction

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Hm. Well. First fix would be get rid of the Dino’s and have the tank in a somewhat welcoming manner to 1k worth of coral coming Monday. I’ll get pods, I can do a lights out for the tank for three days (the LPs and zoas can manage). I’ll also get the bacteria and dose. Where would you go from there. Stabilize my numbers? My nitrates and phos have pretty much sat steady.
Biodiversity first…microbactor is good but you may want more than that…..

I wouldn’t be doing weekly water changes - maybe bi-weekly….

Lights out for 3 days may work - or may not….bacteria first see what happens.

1 step - wait
2nd step wait


To much at once cause issues and you don’t know what worked and what didnt
 

wjm6449

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Biodiversity first…microbactor is good but you may want more than that…..

I wouldn’t be doing weekly water changes - maybe bi-weekly….

Lights out for 3 days may work - or may not….bacteria first see what happens.

1 step - wait
2nd step wait


To much at once cause issues and you don’t know what worked and what didnt
Okay. So narrow and steady path one by one. That’s doable too. So when working with my tank the goal is to make domino fall one by one into place and not just hurl the kitchen sink at it. While doing all this, I should be trying to learn how to keep my parameters more consistent, correct.
 

wjm6449

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Biodiversity first…microbactor is good but you may want more than that…..

I wouldn’t be doing weekly water changes - maybe bi-weekly….

Lights out for 3 days may work - or may not….bacteria first see what happens.

1 step - wait
2nd step wait


To much at once cause issues and you don’t know what worked and what didnt
Also. What other bacteria do you suggest.
 

Dlucero

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Hm. Well. First fix would be get rid of the Dino’s and have the tank in a somewhat welcoming manner to 1k worth of coral coming Monday. I’ll get pods, I can do a lights out for the tank for three days (the LPs and zoas can manage). I’ll also get the bacteria and dose. Where would you go from there. Stabilize my numbers? My nitrates and phos have pretty much sat steady.
Dinos is a week to two week process. I’ve had every kind (not literally) from sand only to free swim.

From experience I find lowering numbers while building numbers is best. Uv helps and manual removal. My go to is both regardless of kind. I prefer to turkey baste and use an embroidery screen I’ll post a link. You can get them at any hobby/walmart. A de filter will work and may be easier if no Uv available. A blackout is an option but it doesn’t resolve and when given light it has a higher chance to return in young tank.

I suggest a different bacteria than a nitrifying bacteria if possible. I would avoid any amino protein or carbohydrate. You’ll also need to run carbon. Why I don’t usually suggest rox but you’re not stick heavy so if possible use some.

You could nuke your tank and you’re close to being able to. If you’re interested in a reset nuke and willing to clean it up and deal with the view it might be what you need.
 

Reefing_addiction

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Teehee
 

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wjm6449

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Dinos is a week to two week process. I’ve had every kind (not literally) from sand only to free swim.

From experience I find lowering numbers while building numbers is best. Uv helps and manual removal. My go to is both regardless of kind. I prefer to turkey baste and use an embroidery screen I’ll post a link. You can get them at any hobby/walmart. A de filter will work and may be easier if no Uv available. A blackout is an option but it doesn’t resolve and when given light it has a higher chance to return in young tank.

I suggest a different bacteria than a nitrifying bacteria if possible. I would avoid any amino protein or carbohydrate. You’ll also need to run carbon. Why I don’t usually suggest rox but you’re not stick heavy so if possible use some.

You could nuke your tank and you’re close to being able to. If you’re interested in a reset nuke and willing to clean it up and deal with the view it might be what you need.
I don’t know what a nuking looks like but I do run carbon. It might be exhausted, I can certainly can see what my store has regarding different bacteria.

Regarding lowering numbers and building number not sure what you mean. Does the de filter or uv become a necessity here? Big chunks of $ I’m not really able to do this second
 

mww00ds

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I don’t know what a nuking looks like but I do run carbon. It might be exhausted, I can certainly can see what my store has regarding different bacteria.

Regarding lowering numbers and building number not sure what you mean. Does the de filter or uv become a necessity here? Big chunks of $ I’m not really able to do this second
See if your lfs will sell or give you used water or filter sponge. Either or both would help to seed your tank with more bacteria.
 

Reefing_addiction

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Okay. So narrow and steady path one by one. That’s doable too. So when working with my tank the goal is to make domino fall one by one into place and not just hurl the kitchen sink at it. While doing all this, I should be trying to learn how to keep my parameters more consistent, correct.
Yes. Kitchen sinks are bad for tanks anyway!

Since you probably want to pick up good bacteria tomorrow just see what the LFS has.

i used Biodigest when I upgraded tanks (for a 16 to a 75). https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/biod...e=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_LZB8rGl-TNxD9sfWI8RhtHHj8K

But live bacteria is what you want
 

wjm6449

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See if your lfs will sell or give you used water or filter sponge. Either or both would help to seed your tank with more bacteria.
Got it. I’ll see. That said that piece of live rock didn’t get hit with chemiclean so the only thing that rock has experienced to date is peroxide. I guess which explains what that rock remains shiny and clean of dinos
 

Dlucero

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I don’t know what a nuking looks like but I do run carbon. It might be exhausted, I can certainly can see what my store has regarding different bacteria.

Regarding lowering numbers and building number not sure what you mean. Does the de filter or uv become a necessity here? Big chunks of $ I’m not really able to do this second
Lowering raising numbers is killing Dino pop building bacteria pop.

Uv DE filter speeds everything up in resolution. Cheapest method is diatomaceous earth filter. You’ll basically filter them out and repeat till pop under control.

Nuking your tank for all the problems is feeding the algae to cause it to outcompete the Dino’s . It will become unsightly but once done you stop feeding and remove the rocks hard brush clean place back. Then you let nitrate phosphate settle and get you big 3 to balance. Then you rock n roll !

For the coral livestock you’ll need another small tank with a cleaned rock from your tank and frag holder/light diffuser. Then you’ll put back in your display. Normally you wouldn’t have ordered a 1k coral order but life happens.
 

Reefing_addiction

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@billyocean tested alk again this morning and sitting at 9.6 expect another test tonight around 7pm MST

I’ll test calcium nitrates and phosphates tonight as well.
Ok tested Alk and it was 9.3. Last dose was at 2pm. My final dose of the night is at 8pm. Going to wait an hour after that and test again. That last dose is 1 hour before lights out
 

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