Tired of AC bricks? Try the DCBuddy
- Thread starter theatrus
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I added a DC side transfer switch and dedicated DC power supply. Does the v2 diagram below represent what you're thinking? How is your DCBuddy hub different than the DC Auto Transfer Switch? I'm trying to figure out if I wait for your hub or continue to build out what's in the diagram.
You are filling a hole in the industry with this. Keep up the great work! I was always amazed that Ecotech Marine was about the only company that designed battery backup into the product line. Seems like BRS would have developed an off the shelf system to work with the Apex.
OP
OP
Very similar, just some easier wire bussing and passing through communication channels, and knowing when you've failed over to battery (so you could load shed or turn off some ports)
If I'm finding the same model on Amazon, you're limited to 5-8A on the switch. Not a huge deal.
Thanks! And I agree, battery backup is a big deal - even though I rarely have power outages being able to run for 12 hours this Feb really helped the tank along (while I was somewhere over the pacific in a plane, talk about bad timing).
OP
OP
Hub allows multiple inputs, such as power supplies on different circuits or batteries, to feed multiple (targeting 4) DCBuddies. As I’m designing it right now, there are three inputs: two AC adapters which can share current, and a fall back dedicated battery input for battery setups which are pre-existing and have their own charger. The CANbus wires are routed through so on-battery signaling can be sent downstream.
The battery module is the more complex one: one AC adapter in, one power output, and a WiFi enabled charge manager which is also a buck/boost converter (up to 10A or so, thermal testing TBD).
It's bring your own battery, 12-36V (shipping around and storing Lithium batteries is a giant pain, going to skip that step).
As it’s a buck/boost, and fully programmable, you can set the output voltage you want independently from the battery (e.g. 12V battery and 24V or 36V output, or a 24V battery and a 12V output). When the AC adapter drops off the battery kicks in, and when power comes back it passes through the adapter power and uses the remaining to recharge.
The battery module can feed an adapter port on the Hub (as it’s normally an AC adapter it doesn’t need the fallback battery port on the hub), or just a DCBuddy directly.
The battery module will be slower to iron out. It’s more complicated than the rest of the systems
.
OP
OP
The charger controller is the TI bq25756, and both chemistries are supported out of the box. They use very similar profiles just at different voltages.
Hub allows multiple inputs, such as power supplies on different circuits or batteries, to feed multiple (targeting 4) DCBuddies. As I’m designing it right now, there are three inputs: two AC adapters which can share current, and a fall back dedicated battery input for battery setups which are pre-existing and have their own charger. The CANbus wires are routed through so on-battery signaling can be sent downstream.
The battery module is the more complex one: one AC adapter in, one power output, and a WiFi enabled charge manager which is also a buck/boost converter (up to 10A or so, thermal testing TBD).
It's bring your own battery, 12-36V (shipping around and storing Lithium batteries is a giant pain, going to skip that step).
As it’s a buck/boost, and fully programmable, you can set the output voltage you want independently from the battery (e.g. 12V battery and 24V or 36V output, or a 24V battery and a 12V output). When the AC adapter drops off the battery kicks in, and when power comes back it passes through the adapter power and uses the remaining to recharge.
The battery module can feed an adapter port on the Hub (as it’s normally an AC adapter it doesn’t need the fallback battery port on the hub), or just a DCBuddy directly.
The battery module will be slower to iron out. It’s more complicated than the rest of the systems
Do you have an e.t.a. on the Hub or Battery module?Hub allows multiple inputs, such as power supplies on different circuits or batteries, to feed multiple (targeting 4) DCBuddies. As I’m designing it right now, there are three inputs: two AC adapters which can share current, and a fall back dedicated battery input for battery setups which are pre-existing and have their own charger. The CANbus wires are routed through so on-battery signaling can be sent downstream.
The battery module is the more complex one: one AC adapter in, one power output, and a WiFi enabled charge manager which is also a buck/boost converter (up to 10A or so, thermal testing TBD).
It's bring your own battery, 12-36V (shipping around and storing Lithium batteries is a giant pain, going to skip that step).
As it’s a buck/boost, and fully programmable, you can set the output voltage you want independently from the battery (e.g. 12V battery and 24V or 36V output, or a 24V battery and a 12V output). When the AC adapter drops off the battery kicks in, and when power comes back it passes through the adapter power and uses the remaining to recharge.
The battery module can feed an adapter port on the Hub (as it’s normally an AC adapter it doesn’t need the fallback battery port on the hub), or just a DCBuddy directly.
The battery module will be slower to iron out. It’s more complicated than the rest of the systems
OP
OP
Battery: More complicated firmware, late July is really the earliest. The hardware is "mostly" laid out.
Hub: I have about three design concepts finding the ideal state for this in terms of cost/complexity/features. The first versions were simple (ideal-diode-OR inputs). Then I added output protection (automotive fuses) since two power adapters or a big adapter is a lot of energy. And then I went to the three input with one being the battery switch, and added logic because of it. I realistically may make _both_, but the one you are after has some parts on order so I'm expecting to only be able to order first articles in about two weeks.
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I don't have an S1 (only the M1 and 2). If they are interchangeable, my semi-new-in-box MP40QD is a 32V supply.
I don't have an s1 or s2 either, but following the logic that the battery backup is 24v and knowing that the only way the vectra driver knows when power is lost would be going from 32v to 24v, it's safe to conclude that all vectras run above 24v.
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thanks! Does that mean I can run them off of 32v as well? I’d like to have 4 mp40’s and two s1’s one one DC buddy.
As long as the Vectra S falls under the maximum 3A threshold.
Again only using logic and not actually testing current, I'd assume it easily falls under 3A.
Is that including the PSU?
OP
OP
I’d say an S1 fits under the limit. More voltage helps that. Going to take a guess and say around 60W peak. If you have Mobius connected to the pump it gives you an estimate there as well: my M1 is at 24W and M2 at 40W.
The limit is for thermals - if one port is say at 3.5A it will run warmer, but that’s allowed as long as every port isn’t going full steam. It will thermally limit to protect its self (which is bad if you want the pump to run of course) but it was happy to sustain higher loads when I was hot-testing this in 90F ambients.
The limit is for thermals - if one port is say at 3.5A it will run warmer, but that’s allowed as long as every port isn’t going full steam. It will thermally limit to protect its self (which is bad if you want the pump to run of course) but it was happy to sustain higher loads when I was hot-testing this in 90F ambients.
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