Help with metal halide bulb not firing

oreo54

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Change your outlet to number 1 or 2, they are for lighting. It matters and says so in the Apex manual. Give it a shot and let me know.
Hmmm...
I'd assume the real relays as opposed to the MOSFET ( solid state) relays would be better for lights.
Then again if the contacts oxidized....
The EnergyBar 8 provides eight switched 120V outlets. They are numbered 1 through 8
as illustrated on the device. Outlets 1-3 and 5-7 are switched with silent solid-state
devices and can power items up to 5 amps each. Outlets 4 and 8 are switched with
relays and can power items up to 10 amps each. The total current draw for all active
outlets must be less than 15 amps

They do suggest putting low power devices on 4 or 8.
Apparently the low amp draw can keep the
MOSFET active.

Suppose it is worth a try switching outlets.
 
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Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar

A. grandis

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There must be problem with compatibility between the ballast and the Apex. Have you tried using a wall outlet? If that works, why don't you just get a proper extension cord and a timer just for the halides? That is what I do! Use the Apex for other things.

Screen Shot 2023-01-25 at 1.46.23 PM.png

 
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wrassie86

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There must be problem with compatibility between the ballast and the Apex. Have you tried using a wall outlet? If that works, why don't you just get a proper extension cord and a timer just for the halides? That is what I do! Use the Apex for other things.

View attachment 2991357
Those are the exact timers I have used for used for years, cheap and just get the job done.
 

Saltyreef

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Those are the exact timers I have used for used for years, cheap and just get the job done.
Same. Bulletproof. The past couple years i just "upgraded" the convenience to kasa smart power strips because these monsters take up two spaces where another piece of equipment could be plugged into.
 
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Jwill1316

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There must be problem with compatibility between the ballast and the Apex. Have you tried using a wall outlet? If that works, why don't you just get a proper extension cord and a timer just for the halides? That is what I do! Use the Apex for other things.

View attachment 2991357
thats what Im going to do now to start with waiting on the timer now
 
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A. grandis

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Back in the day I remember the ReefKeeper had also some of the outlets for the lights and in some cases we still had EMI going on no matter what. To use a separated timer is the best way to put that higher wattage apart from that DC environment once for all.
Here is one of the timers I got during the 90's and still in use today. This one we can also set dosing pumps to the seconds.
It's hard to understand why most things from the past were extremely precise and lasted forever?? Why change!!!???
Gotta love halides!!!! And conventional timers too!
image.jpg

I was thinking to get my old maxi jets to work. LOL! Our tanks from the past were the proof that "new technologies" available today don't really matter much!
 

Saltyreef

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Back in the day I remember the ReefKeeper had also some of the outlets for the lights and in some cases we still had EMI going on no matter what. To use a separated timer is the best way to put that higher wattage apart from that DC environment once for all.
Here is one of the timers I got during the 90's and still in use today. This one we can also set dosing pumps to the seconds.
It's hard to understand why most things from the past were extremely precise and lasted forever?? Why change!!!???
Gotta love halides!!!! And conventional timers too!
View attachment 2993053
I was thinking to get my old maxi jets to work. LOL! Our tanks from the past were the proof that "new technologies" available today don't really matter much!
The reason for the change is if something lasts forever, they just designed themselves out of business :face-with-tears-of-joy:

It breaks, you buy.
 
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A. grandis

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The reason for the change is if something lasts forever, they just designed themselves out of business :face-with-tears-of-joy:

It breaks, you buy.
Th consumerism is happening in US since the 60's. The difference is that after a while they "improved" their technique using junk material and predated fail. Then they come with this global "green" thing about saving the world while we have to trash a year old vacuum or a blender to get another. I also would prefer to see kids playing with marbles, kites and dolls instead of cell phones!
Anyways.. not trying to hijack this thread changing subject.
Those timers are the best!
 
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Back in the day I remember the ReefKeeper had also some of the outlets for the lights and in some cases we still had EMI going on no matter what. To use a separated timer is the best way to put that higher wattage apart from that DC environment once for all.
Here is one of the timers I got during the 90's and still in use today. This one we can also set dosing pumps to the seconds.
It's hard to understand why most things from the past were extremely precise and lasted forever?? Why change!!!???
Gotta love halides!!!! And conventional timers too!
View attachment 2993053
I was thinking to get my old maxi jets to work. LOL! Our tanks from the past were the proof that "new technologies" available today don't really matter much!

Speaking of maxi jets, My uv pump went out the other day, pulled out 2 maxi jets from 15 to 20 years ago and they both ran for about a day each and died.

I miss my reef keeper was a good piece of equipment and easy to use.
 

Hurricane Aquatics

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Well I've switched they MH over to an analogue timer on a power strip and have had no firing issues since the switch

Yeah, not sure why you would have went with a manual timer when you could have went with Apex outlet 1. However, that's your choice and was the reason for your troubles. Glad you are not having any further issues and happy reefing!
 
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Jwill1316

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Yeah, not sure why you would have went with a manual timer when you could have went with Apex outlet 1. However, that's your choice and was the reason for your troubles. Glad you are not having any further issues and happy reefing!
Honestly i had already bought the power strip after the recommendation of switching. Its gine the powerstrip didnt cost a lot amd it just free up space on my apex. Real estate is valuble on the power strip lolol
 
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oreo54

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Yeah, not sure why you would have went with a manual timer when you could have went with Apex outlet 1. However, that's your choice and was the reason for your troubles. Glad you are not having any further issues and happy reefing!
Those things are weird.
Soo use 10A manual relays for milliamp draw CO2 solenoids?
See below:

I have 3 250 halides + 4 96 W PCs + 1 BK return pump in 1 EB8 (different outlets). I plugged them into the triac ports (1-3, 5-7) and it works wonderfully. Main thing, watch your total amperage.

I don't like using 4/8 (relay) outlets for high current stuff (personal preference)
but use the lower rated 5A triacs for the ballasts?

I downloaded the eb8 manual. There is no mention of using 1 exclusively.
I do know they have some engineering that could be better...

EB832 maybe?
.
 
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A. grandis

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Speaking of maxi jets, My uv pump went out the other day, pulled out 2 maxi jets from 15 to 20 years ago and they both ran for about a day each and died.

I miss my reef keeper was a good piece of equipment and easy to use.
All my old Maxi Jets are still working, including my very first one (1000)!!
I still have 2 Reef Keepers working in 2 of my systems. They also never failed on me.

IMG_5029.jpg
 
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A. grandis

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Yeah, not sure why you would have went with a manual timer when you could have went with Apex outlet 1. However, that's your choice and was the reason for your troubles. Glad you are not having any further issues and happy reefing!
There will always a possibility for the Apex to have some type of trouble with those powerful AC ballasts. It's way better to have them in a separated fashion IMHO! I use one mechanical timer with an adapter for the 2 halides.

Screen Shot 2023-01-29 at 2.41.41 PM.png

 
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Hurricane Aquatics

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There will always a possibility for the Apex to have some type of trouble with those powerful AC ballasts. It's way better to have them in a separated fashion IMHO! I use one mechanical timer with an adapter for the 2 halides.

View attachment 2997573

Thankfully, I've never had any issues with my EB8s or Apex unit. The first two outlets are always lighting, next two outlets are return pump, etc. Then I use the bottom for my MP40QD, etc.

Neptune needs to label those on the EB8 unit. You wouldn't know unless you had previous info. I've seen a lot of trouble Reefers have like that.
 

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