Gladfelter's 125 Build-"In the Beginning"

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Gladfelter

Gladfelter

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I just ordered two AI Sols. I know its not enough but its about all I can afford right now lol. I could buy the third one right now but then if something goes wrong when putting the tank together Im screwed lol. I just gotta figure out how to mount them now. Celing hanging is out due to cathedral ceilings. Id be running uneven and super long wires to the ceiling.
 

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If its against a wall you can drill into the studs and make a metal rail hanger. You'll have shadowing at the ends but should be fine for now
 

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one might consider that a room chiller haha. but when you have central heat and air, and it's not in the main living area, like a dedicated fish room, the temp in that room can raise substantially, and yet the AC won't kick on because the house temp hasnt raised. just too many disadvantages to MH for me to ever go back, too hot, too much electricity, high replacement cost(tired of hearing about $15 bulbs, they don't compare when you get into high end corals. You could grow leathers with CFL bulb) No tuneability with MH either, you either raise or lower them.same with T5s on these issues. exhaust fans are loud. there are too many nice brands of LEDS out there, that have been proven in huge well known systems to not take the dive. you can make all the excuses in the world, they've been around long enough for the "new and untested" hype to have worn off. they work great, the pros far outweigh any cons when compared to other light sources.

TL;DR
If you won't skimp on other aspects of your reef tank, why would you on inarguably the most important aspect? Buy a good light.


I totally agree that you should buy a good light. That is something that you'll use forever and will reward you in the long run.

Cory...yeah it totally does basically amount to an in-room chiller. That's why I used it that way. I used to have three tanks in the room so it was just easier to cool them all with the one air conditioner rather than using chillers on them. The house does have central heat and air but it's a sunroom...so ya know...without the extra air conditioner it heats up substantially in there just from the sunshine alone.

I never ran cooling fans much except across my sump. I did have to run a chiller on my 135 when I had the 400W MHs on it but it's like you're saying...the room it was in was warm but not the rest of the house. I think most people can get by with 250W MHs without having to worry about overheating too much though. People with 400s are a special breed, usually VERY dedicated to MHs. So yeah, LEDs have the advantage of being cooler. I'll give you that one. I just like MH better for other reasons. We don't have to debate about it again though. No biggie.

Matt, I think no matter what type of light you choose (or already chose), as long as it's a good one...you should be happy. PLENTY of people are happy with T5s, LEDs, or MHs. You'll find proponents of each one.
 
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Gladfelter

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Ole Man

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I think you will be happy,I know I love mine.Found out that I had to change out the center four reflectors though,they come with 70 degree reflectors on the ends and 40 degrees in the middle four.That created spot lighting badly in my 90 reef.The change out kit were cheap ,they said this would stop that,great tech support,and it did.The change was awsome,70 degrees all the way thru did the trick for me.I'm running two,spaced evenly lengthwise,probley could stand the third but on my 90 I think I have great coverage.A standard PAR meter they say isn't very good for LEDs but I've charted out my whole 90 with the clubs ,your welcome to a copy of it,might help ya setting yours up,main thing is ya gotta go slow,thats what I found,hope this helped a little,see ya at the club meeting....Buddy :focus:
 
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So I've gotta get the sump under the stand. I have got to start cycling this week

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Taking all Rodi water donations lol this is gonna take forever lol

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Oh the waters going lol. Just 48 mire hours to go. I'm probably gonna go e in and start getting some from AM

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K. So I got the sump underneath the tank. I got all the pieces for plumbing. I'm about to go pick up some braces to support the long drain. Let's see what I can get done tonight

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Water test complete. Return pump turned on and power failure tested twice. Still have 5" from the top of the sump and that was with a siphon forming on my right hand return

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Engloid

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Water test complete. Return pump turned on and power failure tested twice. Still have 5" from the top of the sump and that was with a siphon forming on my right hand return

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It's a good idea to put marks on the sump, showing what your peak level should be, allowing room for power outage rise. I also put other marks for water change volumes.
 
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Ok...I was supposed to be out of town all weekend so I wasn't planning on working on the tank today. But my wife got sick so.we have to come home early. I'm going to drain the tap water. Install the protein skimmer and reefkeeper, heater, and powerheads and start filling. Here's the question I have. This is my first large Saltwater tank. Is it better to fill the tank with RO water and then add the salt or pre mix and put that in?
 

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Always always always premix the salt. if you mix in the tank pockets of salt get trapped in rock or other places or dont mix properly because of the size of the tank and can be really mess w your levels later.
 
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Cool beans. My other tanks were small enough to just make 2 trips to AM and they were filled. This one not so much lol

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Cory makes a good point about salt in rocks. You could fill the tank and add salt to the sump though. It will slowly dissolve.
 

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