Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

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mcarroll

mcarroll

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I think there's nothing wrong with the N and P numbers we've been shooting for – just consider 0.10 ppm and 5-10 ppm as your minimums for PO4 and NO3.

There's certainly room to experiment, but I'd probably maintain this status quo as long as possible so the tank can normalize for a while before any more changes get put on it.
 

Velcro

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I think there's nothing wrong with the N and P numbers we've been shooting for – just consider 0.10 ppm and 5-10 ppm as your minimums for PO4 and NO3.

There's certainly room to experiment, but I'd probably maintain this status quo as long as possible so the tank can normalize for a while before any more changes get put on it.

Plenty of SPS people have amazing success at these numbers.
 

reeferfoxx

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I think there's nothing wrong with the N and P numbers we've been shooting for – just consider 0.10 ppm and 5-10 ppm as your minimums for PO4 and NO3.

There's certainly room to experiment, but I'd probably maintain this status quo as long as possible so the tank can normalize for a while before any more changes get put on it.
Darn, I was hoping you were kidding about putting N and P on the auto doser lol ;Shamefullyembarrased

Can do. And thanks for talking me out of a restart. :)
 

Velcro

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Absolutely dramatic differences overnight from adding the UV. This black eggcrate would normally have MUCH more brown on it even before lights came on. There's white dino death web all over the place.





APC_0144.jpg
APC_0145.jpg
 

revhtree

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Absolutely dramatic differences overnight from adding the UV. This black eggcrate would normally have MUCH more brown on it even before lights came on. There's white dino death web all over the place.





APC_0144.jpg
APC_0145.jpg


Awesome!
 

mwilk19

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Lights have been on several hours and STILL 95% gone. No noticeable increase of what is left. I think this is something everyone should try if they have dinos that seem to decrease at night.
I'll be interested to see how this works out over the next week or so.
 

Velcro

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I'll be interested to see how this works out over the next week or so.

I'll keep things updated. Siphoned out all the dead white stuff a bit ago and added some ROX in a bag to my 1 micron filtersock. Added benefit of this UV is that my tank is stupid clear now. Just took some underwater top down shots and everything looks amazing.
 

Velcro

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Sunny Ds open for the first time in over a week. This was one of the only corals that was clearly irritated by the surrounding Dino's. SPS polyp extension is much better today too. End of the daylight cycle and still no significant multiplication of the jerks.

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jolt

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Been watching this thread and learning. I had a bad dino outbreak about a 6 weeks ago in my 67 gallon frag setup. Based on this thread, I suspect what caused it was letting my phosphates drop to zero for a few days. Shortly after this happened I had a huge dino bloom, super snotty and bubbly. I would blow it off frags and it would be back in 5 minutes. Since then, I have knocked it 99% back and it seems to be staying down for the last 7 days. What I did was raise my nitrates and phosphates and keep them above 3ppm and 0.02ppm, respectively, at all times -- testing every day and dosing SeaChem flourish nitrogen and Brightwell NeoPhos as needed to keep levels up. I also added three kinds of pods and started dosing phyto every night. I did two large sessions of siphoning out the dinos, two weeks apart. They came back pretty strong after the first session which was when I started being more rigorous about the nitrates and phosphates and added pods. What seemed really effective for removal was turning off my gyre pump and only leaving the sump return pump running. Then I would blow the dinos off the frag rack and rocks with a turkey baster. The dinos would very quickly clump up at the top of the water. I used a siphon on the bare bottom, racks, and rocks before blasting with the baster, and I used a small plastic cup to skim clumps from the surface. I would repeat the blasting and waiting for clumps several times. It took maybe 5 minutes for reasonable sized clumps to form for skimming with the cup. I also did about a 25% water change each time, replacing all the siphoned water with fresh. Changing the water out did not seem to cause any re-bloom of the dinos this last time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but what I think I learned from this thread is that blooms are caused by a nutrient imbalance and lack of biodiversity. Fixing the imbalance and increasing the biodiversity has seemed to really help ...
 

rog2961

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I had all levels at 0 for about a month after getting rid of them. Some acros were pale so I decided to raise no3 and po4, now I am dealing with a bloom. I was a firm believer of raising nutrients, but the opposite appears to be happening. Will be giving UV a try.
 

reeferfoxx

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I would hate to think that you would have to keep running UV to keep dinos at bay. Hopefully that isn't the case. But it seems like a short cut to fix whatever imbalance has cause them to flourish.
 

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I would hate to think that you would have to keep running UV to keep dinos at bay. Hopefully that isn't the case. But it seems like a short cut to fix whatever imbalance has cause them to flourish.

I wouldn't care if it was a felony shortcut. Dino's are gone and SPS looks better than ever lol.
 

reeferfoxx

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I wouldn't care if it was a felony shortcut. Dino's are gone and SPS looks better than ever lol.
For s**ts and giggles, you should simulate a bad UV bulb and let it run for a month without the UV. Just curious if it's even necessary to keep running it? Personally, I like low maintenance setups, so this would be a good experiment.
 
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