Jhoussock

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It is either vinegar or ammonia (depending on what you used) - and probably a small amount - but it won't seal if its still leaking. I would let it drip into the sump - at this point (right - its not leaking on the floor, etc) - and it cant leak any more than the water flowing up from the return??) - and I would talk to redsea and try to figure out why it doesnt fit. Good Luck.
C5DD9D81-E55E-41BD-B9D0-6D4759D5DBC0.jpeg

this is what I used...it is leaking into the sump only right now. So my biggest concern is contaminating my tank with the silicone. I would feel better knowing I’m okay with the silicone not being cured
 

Jhoussock

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BTW - didnt you already start another thread - it gets confusing when you ask in 2 different places (though Imt sure you're worried)
yes it was a combo of worried and getting answers like replace the bulkhead that got me here. People assume it’s just and easy fix and it’s not with the reefer.
 

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The connections have to have almost no tension on them or they leak. They are very intolerant of anything pulling on them in any direction. Red sea says not to put anything in there for sealant either because it interferes with the Orings ability to seal. Lastly, putting anything in there also makes it highly likely for you to crack those pipes. I say all of this as someone who learned this all firsthand. After I got my replacement pipes I didn't use any sealant and made sure the angles, etc were perfect. No leak, but even I even touch the pipes in any direction they'll leak.
 

DS204

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Would someone mind helping to answer a question about the initial fill of a Reefer system?

I filled mine yesterday and followed the instructions about filling the display and allowing it to overflow into the sump, and into the return chamber - about 6 inches of water.

When I turn the system on, I get a lot of gurgling and a lot of bubbles/aeration in the main drain compartment of the sump. I suspect I might not have enough water in the overflow, but I'm not sure. The overflow water line is about 7 inches BELOW the emergency drain, and I am not 100% sure but I suspect that I need to fill it to just below the emergency drain, so that some is trickling in.

I suppose my question is, do I add more water to help the system stabilize or do I adjust the downflow pipe/gate valve to restrict flow into the sump and raise the overflow water level that way?

Please help!
 

AZMSGT

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Would someone mind helping to answer a question about the initial fill of a Reefer system?

I filled mine yesterday and followed the instructions about filling the display and allowing it to overflow into the sump, and into the return chamber - about 6 inches of water.

When I turn the system on, I get a lot of gurgling and a lot of bubbles/aeration in the main drain compartment of the sump. I suspect I might not have enough water in the overflow, but I'm not sure. The overflow water line is about 7 inches BELOW the emergency drain, and I am not 100% sure but I suspect that I need to fill it to just below the emergency drain, so that some is trickling in.

I suppose my question is, do I add more water to help the system stabilize or do I adjust the downflow pipe/gate valve to restrict flow into the sump and raise the overflow water level that way?

Please help!
You need to start adjusting the valve. Start with it wide open, then close it slowly till things start to calm down. Once you reach this point you will need to make micro adjustments to get the tank to be silent. If you look at your directions they tell you how to do this.
 

DS204

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You need to start adjusting the valve. Start with it wide open, then close it slowly till things start to calm down. Once you reach this point you will need to make micro adjustments to get the tank to be silent. If you look at your directions they tell you how to do this.

Thanks for your message. I've done all this already.

Where should the water level be in the overflow box?
 

AZMSGT

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Thanks for your message. I've done all this already.

Where should the water level be in the overflow box?
If you did everything right your overflow will automaticly find it’s happy level. No need to worry about the overflows water height. Just for reference mine is right at the edge of the emergency overflow pipe.

As long as your return pump section is at the 6” water level you should be good.

Just an FYI, when you shut off and turn on the return pump the system will take about 10-15 minutes to settle back in.
 

DS204

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Thanks, I'll give this a try.

Is the return section usually at 6 inches all the time? Just curious what the happy medium is in that compartment, or what a typical water level should be.

I have the gate valve fully open, so I'll try closing it to slow the flow down - I guess that will raise the level in the overflow box to a happy medium and stop all the gushing into the drain section of the sump. Hopefully this is the right way to proceed.
 

AZMSGT

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Thanks, I'll give this a try.

Is the return section usually at 6 inches all the time? Just curious what the happy medium is in that compartment, or what a typical water level should be.

I have the gate valve fully open, so I'll try closing it to slow the flow down - I guess that will raise the level in the overflow box to a happy medium and stop all the gushing into the drain section of the sump. Hopefully this is the right way to proceed.
Yes, you’re on the right track here.

If you have an automatic water top off system you set your sensors in the return pump section. This keeps your water level right were you need it. Otherwise keep an eye on things and add RODI water regularly to ensure you stay in that 6” range.
 
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Jhoussock

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Guys I need help...I went to replace my gate valve and know my down pipe from my tank into the bulk head won’t seal. I’ve tried tape and right now I have a reef safe thread sealer on the threads of the pipe and I siliconed the outside of the bulk head....it’s still dripping steadily out. Is there some kind of fast drying sealer I can use? Also how bad is it that I have water dripping out of the uncured silicon into the sump? Is that enough contact to hurt livestock/corals? Here’s a video of the leak.

So I woke up today to the leak stopped....plan is to replace the top pipe when it arrives and slather the bulkhead with some silicone while it’s dry...seem like a plan?
 

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Yes, you’re on the right track here.

If you have an automatic water top off system you set your sensors in the return pump section. This keeps your water level right were you need it. Otherwise keep an eye on things and add RODI water regularly to ensure you stay in that 6” range.

What height is your skimmer chamber usually at? Just curious what the ideal water level should be in there. I'm guessing 7in?
 

Flameback Pair

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So I woke up today to the leak stopped....plan is to replace the top pipe when it arrives and slather the bulkhead with some silicone while it’s dry...seem like a plan?
@Jhoussock using rubber silicone is a real poor way to seal a pipe connection. I would leave it off. It's obvious the pipe isn't seated properly on it's threads or the o-ring isn't seated properly. If you smear a bunch of silicone on there it just puts a bandaid on there and you won't know if the problem is fixed. See this video on plumbing. It's for a Reefer 170 but you get the idea.
 

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You have any addition pics and instructions? Was it taught to cut out? I have not gotten my tank yet, but when I do I plan to do this same thing!

Sorry for the delay, you can click my build link and see the pics before and after. The glass was not too hard to cut out, but you will need a thin, razor knife that is a little flexible.
 

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1567013172616.png

Finally opened it after months of it being in the box. Im going to set it up some time this week after I make sure its level, and confirm that there are no leaks.

@SurfTrack Make sure it’s not sitting on the pipe bulkheads in the back at the overflow. You can damage the tank. You need to have the tank supported off the ground on sides.

Grats on getting it started.
 
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AZMSGT

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What height is your skimmer chamber usually at? Just curious what the ideal water level should be in there. I'm guessing 7in?
@Dean Smith This completely depends on the skimmer in use. That’s why it’s got an adjustable gate to the return section.
In my case, I have the gate all the way down and the skimmer is raised up an inch.
 

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@Dean Smith This completely depends on the skimmer in use. That’s why it’s got an adjustable gate to the return section.
In my case, I have the gate all the way down and the skimmer is raised up an inch.

Thanks for your reply. I suppose my question was incomplete - I don't have my skimmer connected just yet, while I dial in the flow and figure this system out. I left my adjustable gate all the way down as well, and I was kind of wondering what other people are doing with theirs. I'll probably leave it there permanently and see how my skimmer reacts to 8" water level in the skimmer chamber (which is where I believe it is when that adjustable gate is all the way down).

I have a small 13.5 gallon quarantine tank that I've been running for nearly a year, except the Red Sea system is new to me, so it took some time to familiarize myself with it and how it runs. I have it running much quieter now after using your input + calling Red Sea tech support (they were really helpful, by the way). I can still hear some water flowing into the filter cups, but I have the cabinet doors off so maybe that's typical. The instruction manual says "virtually silent" so I guess this is maybe as quiet as it gets. It's not loud by any means, but it does sound like a faucet is trickling if I'm close enough to it.

Good luck with your quarantine process - I've been following your thread for a while now.
 

AZMSGT

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Thanks for your reply. I suppose my question was incomplete - I don't have my skimmer connected just yet, while I dial in the flow and figure this system out. I left my adjustable gate all the way down as well, and I was kind of wondering what other people are doing with theirs. I'll probably leave it there permanently and see how my skimmer reacts to 8" water level in the skimmer chamber (which is where I believe it is when that adjustable gate is all the way down).

I have a small 13.5 gallon quarantine tank that I've been running for nearly a year, except the Red Sea system is new to me, so it took some time to familiarize myself with it and how it runs. I have it running much quieter now after using your input + calling Red Sea tech support (they were really helpful, by the way). I can still hear some water flowing into the filter cups, but I have the cabinet doors off so maybe that's typical. The instruction manual says "virtually silent" so I guess this is maybe as quiet as it gets. It's not loud by any means, but it does sound like a faucet is trickling if I'm close enough to it.

Good luck with your quarantine process - I've been following your thread for a while now.
@Dean Smith, unfortunately the tanks aren't truly silent but we get them as close as we can. FYI, you should add your tank build and or tank in your Signature block so I know what your working with.. I can never remember who has what tank without cheating and looking.

As for following my thread.. thanks.. it’s a trail for sure.
 

Flameback Pair

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@SurfTrack Make sure it’s not sitting on the pipe bulkheads in the back at the overflow. You can damage the tank. You need to have the tank supported off the ground on sides.

Grats on getting it started.
I have to have my tank off the stand right now and have tank sitting on its front panel on floor.
 
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