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Well then its not a mystery. Your corals starving. There likely isnt much bacteria either as a result of the lack of nutes.Lost happy items overnight. Great polyp extension to skeleton. Didn’t see signs of bites. The dips came out clean. Testing had parameters stable. I just can’t for the life of me get this tank to have readable nitrate and phosphate so I’ve been feeding Red Sea coral nutrition.
I’ve always used a majority of live rock. The only dry rock I’ve used was after starting tank and most was old rock that clean and dry for a least few months that I had on hand. Hopefully your tank is ready for new adds soon.Good is defined on your own choice of good. I didn’t get my killed by my wife for buying stuff that keeps dying off. Tank is looking pretty barren right now. But coralline is popping up everywhere so maybe I got through whatever weirdness I’ve been facing. I wonder if starting with dry rock made it take much longer to develop than I’m used to.
When can we start guessing?the uploading has begun
Nobody is talking about the 245wh I agree that’s weak and I advised against it. At your 400$ price point your battery is 1300wh and the one I recommended is 1075wh for 378$Ado has a IM 180gal IIRC. Its not apples to apples and a return pump only isnt going to be ideal in that big of a system. That 245wh wouldnt even run my 125 return pump at 85 watts very long, i imagine his bigger system is pulling juice too. What happens if he turns on a gyre or mp40 for a fullsize tank? He can do that with an inverter. Oh crap need to power the fridge for an hour, can do that too.
I did start dosing ammonia. Hopefully now that summer is over things will get back on track. It’s been a rough and expensive summerWell then its not a mystery. Your corals starving. There likely isnt much bacteria either as a result of the lack of nutes.
Pump ammonium and trisodium phosphate in it, or try some concotion or reef roids. The unreadable po4 absolutely will rtn coral.
I’ve been learning too but the more I’ve learned the more I recognize watt consumption should be on radars…. Recently started itemizing/monitoring electricity costs.. it’s something you can’t unsee once you put $ to it.Awesome conversation guys haha way over my head with electrical talk though, I am learning
Boil the water and store lol. It's clean once boiled. Just make sure it's capped.Baby bottle sanitizer. Takes 10 min and i have to run it for all the ancillary stuff like the stir bars, lids, air tube, etc. Anyway. Thatsnwhy i stuck with em. Bpiling the waternis getting old, i have the bleach and sodium theosulfate or whatever it is but havent gotten around to trying that.
I use everclear , rinse and sit overnight.Rob have you tried Starsan for sanitizing? I use it for mead brewing and thought it might work for phyto too
77kwh gonna power it for weeks lol.im usual at 80 percent and we haven't lost power for more than 4 hrs because we're on town halls grid. And the school /shelter for emergencies.You gotta charge the ev!
You do realize lead acids (not AGM) have been used forever right? And you realize inverters have 10.5w cutoffs and theyre completely safe to use down to that voltage*. Again im not sure where this skewed data is coming from but i could have a significantly more powerful system for significantly less money, capable of power any non 240v appliance in your home.Nobody is talking about the 245wh I agree that’s weak and I advised against it. At your 400$ price point your battery is 1300wh and the one I recommended is 1075wh for 378$
So for cost we are with 25$ so that’s fair and for capacity we are very close.
The difference is agm batteries aren’t designed to be used past 50% nor are they designed for the backup purposes we are using them for. Draining past 50%…worst case it can kill the cells, best case their future lifespan is reduced
You have large capacity battery but it’s slow to recharge and you can’t safely use all its capacity
With 85w load your 400$ system lasts:
Safely (regarding battery health) - less time than my 375$ system
Negligently (pushing to full discharge affecting future life) marginally longer than my 375$ system
Eventually. I do either 3L or 6L at a time. 1500L per jar. Waiting on this jar to cool off. Im still trying tonfigure it out but so far 3 auccessful harvests and the iso/rhodo are still up so im not trying to experiment yet lolBoil the water and store lol. It's clean once boiled. Just make sure it's capped.
is it me or is BRS taking a nose dive currently? everything on their site seems to be discontinued, then you see this...BRS shipping… yikes
There was a big schism, they stopped carrying some of their competitor products on the higher dollar items.is it me or is BRS taking a nose dive currently? everything on their site seems to be discontinued, then you see this...
No skewed data I misunderstood your quote. You said 400 and I assumed that was one battery+ inverter + whatever else was needed to make the setup workYou do realize lead acids (not AGM) have been used forever right? And you realize inverters have 10.5w cutoffs and theyre completely safe to use down to that voltage*. Again im not sure where this skewed data is coming from but i could have a significantly more powerful system for significantly less money, capable of power any non 240v appliance in your home.
At $400 price point youre comparing 3800wh (3 batteries) to 1075wh, as 1000watt inverters are only $100 and significantly less capable (the one that comes with your setup)
Or
At $450, a much more capable 2k watt inverter and 2400wh (2 batteries)
At $350, still less than your setup you can have a more capable 2k inveter and 1 larger battery as well.
Or
$250 and have a 1k inveter and 1 battery.
The lifepo loses in all 3 scenarios in terms of value, as they always do excepg for constant high load situations, until battery tech gets better.
I am not happy with the price increase on testing reagents.There was a big schism, they stopped carrying some of their competitor products on the higher dollar items.
What was this lolBRS shipping… yikes