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AKL1950

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Wow amazing I knew this was the culprit the membrane needs to be changed every 3 months min
So looking forward, especially at my SBB corals that survived, do you think they will recover enough to start showing more polyp extension as time goes on. The ones that survived have good encrustation and are starting to show brighter tips. Currently not seeing any increase in polyps.
 

woodyarmadillo

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I have a love/hate relationship with these Hanna testers. I only have the nitrate and ULR phos ppb. About 20% of the time lately, the nitrate reagent isnt changing color. After 2 minutes it’s still clear. If I do another one right after, it will turn dark and be 20-30 ppm. Now I just had my first phos test show .3 out of nowhere. I pulled the vials and retested the same sample several times and it was still the same. Did another and now showing about .04. Tried to use salifert to verify but it’s always just clear. It doesn’t show anything until it’s at .3 or higher. Anyways did a 3rd to verify results on 2nd. Just kind of time consuming.

Same process everytime. I get 3 clean vials out, use syringe to add 10 ml to each bottle, add reagents to 2 bottles and set a timer and shake for 2 minutes. I wipe them all down and then use the 3rd (plain tank water) as my C1 in both tests.
 

ryshark

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I have a love/hate relationship with these Hanna testers. I only have the nitrate and ULR phos ppb. About 20% of the time lately, the nitrate reagent isnt changing color. After 2 minutes it’s still clear. If I do another one right after, it will turn dark and be 20-30 ppm. Now I just had my first phos test show .3 out of nowhere. I pulled the vials and retested the same sample several times and it was still the same. Did another and now showing about .04. Tried to use salifert to verify but it’s always just clear. It doesn’t show anything until it’s at .3 or higher. Anyways did a 3rd to verify results on 2nd. Just kind of time consuming.

Same process everytime. I get 3 clean vials out, use syringe to add 10 ml to each bottle, add reagents to 2 bottles and set a timer and shake for 2 minutes. I wipe them all down and then use the 3rd (plain tank water) as my C1 in both tests.
I think the way you’re doing it is fine, but I use the same vial for the entire test. With that said, I think 3x out of probably 100ish, I’ve had Hr nitrate read like 4, when I know it’s more like 15-20.

The PO4 ULR has been consistent always for me.
 

billyocean

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So looking forward, especially at my SBB corals that survived, do you think they will recover enough to start showing more polyp extension as time goes on. The ones that survived have good encrustation and are starting to show brighter tips. Currently not seeing any increase in polyps.
Unhappy acros usually take a while to get happy. I have a crypto chromatic that almost died 5 months ago...its just now starting to get color back and show some color besides green.
 

billyocean

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I have a love/hate relationship with these Hanna testers. I only have the nitrate and ULR phos ppb. About 20% of the time lately, the nitrate reagent isnt changing color. After 2 minutes it’s still clear. If I do another one right after, it will turn dark and be 20-30 ppm. Now I just had my first phos test show .3 out of nowhere. I pulled the vials and retested the same sample several times and it was still the same. Did another and now showing about .04. Tried to use salifert to verify but it’s always just clear. It doesn’t show anything until it’s at .3 or higher. Anyways did a 3rd to verify results on 2nd. Just kind of time consuming.

Same process everytime. I get 3 clean vials out, use syringe to add 10 ml to each bottle, add reagents to 2 bottles and set a timer and shake for 2 minutes. I wipe them all down and then use the 3rd (plain tank water) as my C1 in both tests.
You may have just gotten bad reagent.
 

Kasrift

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I have a love/hate relationship with these Hanna testers. I only have the nitrate and ULR phos ppb. About 20% of the time lately, the nitrate reagent isnt changing color. After 2 minutes it’s still clear. If I do another one right after, it will turn dark and be 20-30 ppm. Now I just had my first phos test show .3 out of nowhere. I pulled the vials and retested the same sample several times and it was still the same. Did another and now showing about .04. Tried to use salifert to verify but it’s always just clear. It doesn’t show anything until it’s at .3 or higher. Anyways did a 3rd to verify results on 2nd. Just kind of time consuming.

Same process everytime. I get 3 clean vials out, use syringe to add 10 ml to each bottle, add reagents to 2 bottles and set a timer and shake for 2 minutes. I wipe them all down and then use the 3rd (plain tank water) as my C1 in both tests.
Wiping it down which you mentioned in the last step is one of the most important steps. It measures light passing through, so fingerprints will skew the results. The other one is using a clean pipette so the tank water is clean. Don't use one you've been using for feeding or anything. I buy the packs of disposable ones on Amazon. https://amzn.to/3ponuor
 

ryshark

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Wiping it down which you mentioned in the last step is one of the most important steps. It measures light passing through, so fingerprints will skew the results. The other one is using a clean pipette so the tank water is clean. Don't use one you've been using for feeding or anything. I buy the packs of disposable ones on Amazon. https://amzn.to/3ponuor
Pipette? So you’re saying dumping the whole vial underwater and then wiping it off, the way I have been doing it, is bad? Serious question
 

billyocean

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Wiping it down which you mentioned in the last step is one of the most important steps. It measures light passing through, so fingerprints will skew the results. The other one is using a clean pipette so the tank water is clean. Don't use one you've been using for feeding or anything. I buy the packs of disposable ones on Amazon. https://amzn.to/3ponuor
Lol..I just dip the vial in the tank and fill to the line. Ive found being exact doesn't even make a noticable difference. Shake alk reagent before use and keep in fridge if nobody knows that. P04 range and nitrate range are big enough to not matter. As long as my p04 is at least .06 and n03 is 10 I'm good...prefer .1 and 15-20 but really just care about not bottoming out.
 

tbrown

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Pipette? So you’re saying dumping the whole vial underwater and then wiping it off, the way I have been doing it, is bad? Serious question
Lol..I just dip the vial in the tank and fill to the line. Ive found being exact doesn't even make a noticable difference. Shake alk reagent before use and keep in fridge if nobody knows that. P04 range and nitrate range are big enough to not matter. As long as my p04 is at least .06 and n03 is 10 I'm good...prefer .1 and 15-20 but really just care about not bottoming out.
Same. Very consistent for me...
 

billyocean

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So I see people dosing kalk..the amounts that are dosed daily are quite large. How does everyone make that much everyday?
 

Kasrift

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Pipette? So you’re saying dumping the whole vial underwater and then wiping it off, the way I have been doing it, is bad? Serious question
I use a pipette because if you just dunk the vial I'm afraid you get too much of the surface that fills in as you dunk it, so any surface oils or things will fill the vial. I pippette specifically from under the water line by the power head. Probably doesn't make a difference, just want to make sure I get a clean sample of water.
 
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