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What are you using for silicate dosing and how much?Creature Millie had been looking great for over a month and then RTNed out of nowhere. Scooby RTNed but never really looked great in my tank. I still have a sun god, bumblebee (that has lost all of its yellow, I guess it’s a brown bee now). Angry Unicorn, Unicorn Cake, Tiger Tenuis, and Watermelon Mint speciosa are all still looking pretty good so I’m happy about that. Took a few days for good PE but they’ve looked about the same now for about a month, maybe losing a little color. I’m moving par back up from 250 to 300 now. I thought that hammer going downhill and my Zoas losing color had something to do with too much light but could’ve been trace elements or something. I’m running higher mag now (around 1500) and all of my Zoas have good color again and everything else seems happy so I’m going to push the par up a bit again.
SPS has high flow and high nutrients, maybe if I can get the par up a bit more they will start coloring up nicely.
Still playing with Dinos. .08 phos 25ish NO3, UV, tons of pods, phyto, manual removal hasn’t put a dent in them. About a week into Silicate dosing now, no change yet. Don’t seem to be getting worse and all of my parameters seem the same so I’m not super worried. I’ll give the silicate dosing a month and then I may try a blackout.
Spongexcel and dosing up to 1 ppm and then won’t dose again for 2 weeks.What are you using for silicate dosing and how much?
This one looks amazing!
How big is your tank? I don’t know if that stuff is potent enough. Unless you’re dosing a significant portion of the bottle daily. Regardless of what silica you’re dosing it needs to be daily doses to outcompete the Dino’s. If you do in fact have Prorocentrum then the UV and lights out don’t help.Spongexcel and dosing up to 1 ppm and then won’t dose again for 2 weeks.
.5ppm to 1ppm needs to be the daily dose for diatoms to outcompete Dino’sSpongexcel and dosing up to 1 ppm and then won’t dose again for 2 weeks.
I ordered a bunch pf biospheres and bio frag plugs last night. The Coralvue website has them on their website outlet section for pretty cheap right now. I figure i can put the frag plugs in the sump with the biospheres and use them as bio media too then when I need a plug ive got them ready to go. Supposedly the bio media plugs help the frags out too. I figure at the very least, it couldnt hurt!@wes84 I also have the blocks from Maxspect in the 10 gallon frag tank I run. I bought Reefing Art tiles, those are made from ceramic beads too so I figure it works as a media surface.
I run chemipure blue, filter floss, and I do have purigen on hand. I bought it when I set up the tank and then realized my nitrates actually need me to dose.
All sized from booger to mini colonieWhat size will be offer
Good morning ShaneGm all
Both my plates from last sale are not happy right now. Not sure why, they were both looking good and had their tentacles out for a couple weeks but now they are retracted and almost like cupping instead of being flat. Not sure what is going on with them.I fed my plate coral for no reason other than to see what it does, it is developing a mouth on its side!! Surprised me!
I love my wife sometimes, especially when she provides me entertainment like yesterday.
Open some doors and windows if possible. At night if it's too hot during the day and rumble the top of your water with pumps for better gas exchange. Do you have a canopy or.anything that covers the top? Maybe leave cabinet doors open where sump is also
Ive been dosing kalk for about a month now trying to get my ph up. To keep my alk stable i am not even dosing as much as im evaporating (have separate pump pulling from my ATO to my kalk stirrer but the ATO is still kicking on throughout the day). The last time I added kalk powder was about 2 weeks ago. There is about a 2” layer still in the bottom of the stirrer but as you can see my ph is still trending down. My understanding is as long as there is a layer of kalk in the bottom of the stirrer that the lymewater is still at max “saturation”. Is that not the case? I also added a co2 scrubber to my skimmer last weekend but it doesnt seem to be doing anything. The last few days my skimmer has beem going nuts for some reason so i have the drain tube just running back into the sump but i dont think that would have any effect on the co2 scrubbing the air, and i never really noticed any change in ph even when the skimmer wasnt overflowing. Anybody know what im doing wrong here?
It’s a small tank 14g. Open to advice. I’ve been following Randy Holmes-Farley’s advice on dosing up to 1 ppm once every two weeks..5ppm to 1ppm needs to be the daily dose for diatoms to outcompete Dino’s
My PH kept dropping and I grabbed one of these on Amazon. When the house CO2 gets up toward 800, the Tank PH starts dropping. Air out the house to get it down below 600 and the PH goes right back up to 8.10-8.30. Can really see the cause and effect.
Ive been dosing kalk for about a month now trying to get my ph up. To keep my alk stable i am not even dosing as much as im evaporating (have separate pump pulling from my ATO to my kalk stirrer but the ATO is still kicking on throughout the day). The last time I added kalk powder was about 2 weeks ago. There is about a 2” layer still in the bottom of the stirrer but as you can see my ph is still trending down. My understanding is as long as there is a layer of kalk in the bottom of the stirrer that the lymewater is still at max “saturation”. Is that not the case? I also added a co2 scrubber to my skimmer last weekend but it doesnt seem to be doing anything. The last few days my skimmer has beem going nuts for some reason so i have the drain tube just running back into the sump but i dont think that would have any effect on the co2 scrubbing the air, and i never really noticed any change in ph even when the skimmer wasnt overflowing. Anybody know what im doing wrong here?