WvAquatics
Valuable Member
https://www.htgsupply.com/products/htg-4-0-180w-led-grow-light/ another fixture I'm looking at for my refugium. There's also a veg bloom puck to swap this fixture.
Looking for High CRI (95) Natural/Full spectrum 5000-6500K LED strip
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WvAquatics
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HTG Veg Booster 4.0 LED POD | HTG Supply Hydroponics & Grow Lights
HTG Supply Blue Veg Booster 4.0 LED PODs build upon the popular 4.0 full-spectrum formula with a blend of cutting-edge SMD chips that provides an enhanced blue-spectrum output. This specialized POD is designed to boost coverage of the most vital blue wavelengths for strong vegetative growth and...
www.htgsupply.com
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Kessil is notoriously closed lipped on led specs.
Historically "tuna sun" alone has a spectrum not reflective of a high k high cri unit really.
Not sure what you think is wrong with that. If you don't like the blue peak you can just tune it down. That said, I'm not going to get into a highly technical debate with someone who knows a lot more than I do about led lights, but the OP is looking for something that fits what I and others are also looking for (normal daylight lighting), and seems to want a commercial fixture with reasonably high CRI. I suspect these may be among the better commercial reef lights for that purpose.
From my world, I would equate it to dosing AFR to get most things acceptable instead of moonshiners to get everything "perfect".
Anyway, said my bit, and the OP can take it for what its worth.
The spectrum listed by kessil.. do you see the blue peak moving down?Not sure what you think is wrong with that. If you don't like the blue peak you can just tune it down. That said, I'm not going to get into a highly technical debate with someone who knows a lot more than I do about led lights, but the OP is looking for something that fits what I and others are also looking for (normal daylight lighting), and seems to want a commercial fixture with reasonably high CRI. I suspect these may be among the better commercial reef lights for that purpose.
From my world, I would equate it to dosing AFR to get most things acceptable instead of moonshiners to get everything "perfect".
Anyway, said my bit, and the OP can take it for what its worth.
Those are the expected spectrums from 6000-9000k
Yea the chart is "relative" though.
The blue peak isn't exactly the issue.
High CRI "cool whites" generally fill in both the cyan gap and a broader red band.
Those Kessil spectrum scream 80cri at best..
And without real data from Kessil.. wel need "best guess" here.
Now in the current ones you can improve by boosting red/amber BUT you still have the cyan gap.
Yea and you can get 90 cri since CRI is an "average" of 8 swatches BUT it will not be a good daylight emulating spectrum.
Not like the below..Well a bit of a cheat since the sunlike uses a violet pump and a blue phosphor.
92CRI Lumileds "horticulture white" LED
A "better" bin.. 94.9CRI, R(f) 92 R(g) 99
Adds a bit more cyan.
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Just to make a distinction here for anyone here that may not fully understand CRI.
CRI measures how well a light source renders colors for human vision, but it’s important to note that we don’t see true wavelengths or colors. Instead, our brains take red, green, and blue signals from our eyes and composite them into what we perceive as color.
Different combinations of real-world colors may appear the same to our eyes. A high CRI means colors will look natural to us, but that doesn’t mean the light provides the same usable spectral components or power as the sun.
In Randy's case (he can correct me if I am wrong) the goal was to find a light source that would illuminate a lagoon style tank and give the same visual appearance as a real lagoon. Of course there needs to be enough PUR there to grow coral.
In doc's case he appears to be actually trying to mimic the spectral output of the sun via LED. (please do correct me if I am wrong).
I think it goes without saying that if you can do the latter, then the former (color rendering) will be high CRI, as you have recreated the spectrum of the sun. On the other hand, we can certainly attain high CRI by tweaking certain wavelengths and getting close, even though there are large gaps or differences in spectrum and therefor spectral power and PUR.
I hope that makes sense. Apologies if I have misunderstood the conversation.
CRI measures how well a light source renders colors for human vision, but it’s important to note that we don’t see true wavelengths or colors. Instead, our brains take red, green, and blue signals from our eyes and composite them into what we perceive as color.
Different combinations of real-world colors may appear the same to our eyes. A high CRI means colors will look natural to us, but that doesn’t mean the light provides the same usable spectral components or power as the sun.
In Randy's case (he can correct me if I am wrong) the goal was to find a light source that would illuminate a lagoon style tank and give the same visual appearance as a real lagoon. Of course there needs to be enough PUR there to grow coral.
In doc's case he appears to be actually trying to mimic the spectral output of the sun via LED. (please do correct me if I am wrong).
I think it goes without saying that if you can do the latter, then the former (color rendering) will be high CRI, as you have recreated the spectrum of the sun. On the other hand, we can certainly attain high CRI by tweaking certain wavelengths and getting close, even though there are large gaps or differences in spectrum and therefor spectral power and PUR.
I hope that makes sense. Apologies if I have misunderstood the conversation.
Randy Holmes-Farley
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It is true that I am only concerned with appearance to my eye, and having sufficient PAR for the organisms I want to keep. I also think it fits what the OP wants.
I'll note that GHL claims: "model Skywhite CRI > 95"
It seems to fit the OP desired specs:
Specs would be:
I'll note that GHL claims: "model Skywhite CRI > 95"
It seems to fit the OP desired specs:
Specs would be:
- Under < 36”/1M
- High CRI 90 >
- Color temp 5000K - 6500K
- at a minimum Aluminum or IPV6 or full waterproof housing
- Enough Lumens/watts to deliver 250 - 300 Par to a water depth of .5M
- smooth spectral spread. No big peaks, or red dominate so called “Full spectrum grow” LED
OP
OP
Right ….and informative; always appreciate the precise regurgitation,
Yes this Sorta a “no stone unturned thing”
….Give the coral a broad spectrum of every emission (whatever is technologically available) at a energy equivalent to natural light at a depth of 18”
(or whatever is the depth dimension of a 40 breeder)
This bandwidth/spectral criteria is without priori or prejudice to any study, theory or “best practices”. There are NO assumptions to what spectra are beneficial, harmful or inert.
Purpose:
Measure and compare the growth rate of coral growth under lower kelvin “sunlight” against the industry/hobby best standard.
By “best Standard” I think THIS THREAD tried to find that answer but might have missed (or brushed aside) the distinction between light optimized for feeding zooxanthellae vs light matching the environment the animals evolved in …
Also.photography One of my pet peeves is blue light enchanted coral photos. Cool for contest, bad for realism. I want to see coral rendition under the closest match to “natural light” ( but under artificial lighting)
I have a light I think already for the “Sunlight” tank
OP
OP
I did do a lot of digging but honestly lacked any expertise so I sincerely appreciate all the help with the light selection.
I did have some background with hydro LEDs, but growing tomatoes and hydro lettuce. The game has changed.
Now with “legalization” everywhere, folks are growing “medicine” and the prices for “full spectrum” are way lower and they all come with IR and UV. $600 budget was overkill.
Here are the lights I purchased (Arriving Sunday)
It comes with both UV and IR as attachments. This feature will allow me (us) to adjust the height of those separately; basically fine tune the uMols (or whatever) ..this is outside my qualifications. The light does come with a remote app which was also key as I will need adult supervision.
* this light is missing a big gap in the blue, note the deep valley
https://a.co/d/gD9skpp
I did have some background with hydro LEDs, but growing tomatoes and hydro lettuce. The game has changed.
Now with “legalization” everywhere, folks are growing “medicine” and the prices for “full spectrum” are way lower and they all come with IR and UV. $600 budget was overkill.
Here are the lights I purchased (Arriving Sunday)
It comes with both UV and IR as attachments. This feature will allow me (us) to adjust the height of those separately; basically fine tune the uMols (or whatever) ..this is outside my qualifications. The light does come with a remote app which was also key as I will need adult supervision.
* this light is missing a big gap in the blue, note the deep valley
https://a.co/d/gD9skpp
OP
OP
I did a search for
GHL MITRAS SLIMLINE 160 SKYWHITE (PL-1606) (REC RETAIL $432.79 )
indeed, these have the spectrum but can’t find any…sources …Anyone:
How much do the cost in USD?
how many for 36”.x 18”
NOTE the above lights have not arrived yet, they will be here Sunday. Total was about $370 for everything…
Amazon accepts returns…
OP
OP
Somehow I missed this post, you make a very salient point:
I’m using a 40 breeder. With just 18” depth I should be able to approximate/replicate “most” of light energy at that depth.
I’m going to need BIG HELP with the coral selection. Maybe I want to throw in clams also during the experiment…advice needed
This is a HUGE part of the experiment. I dint want to get stuck in the weeds on this, but a big part of the experiment is also dosing (determine by experiment what is actually needed) and also algae control via water management (LC dosing isn’t ruled out either)
This is partially driven by the lost art of algae control pre LED blue era…
TLDR warning
Realizing I’m in the lighting forum and out of scope, but another component of this experiment is biological/bacterial/microscopic data. Basically I want to minimize any surface area available for the nitrification cycle and try to isolate and administer all the corals needs via dosing : Alk,Ca,Mg Aminos, carbon, Nitrates, phosphate….whatever the consensus thinks is relevant/required. I’m gonna require input on this also…
Algae controls via livestock (snails, mollies, et) hasn't been ruled in or out. But again, maybe not the forum for that discussion
not to derail LOl
@lbacha I kinda looked over your plants, we used to collect hard to find philodendrons … Amazing how different the mature leaves look from the plants in the store
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OP
OP
not to derail LOL
@ibacha I kinda went over your plants, we used to collect hard to find philodendrons … Amazing how different the mature leaves look from the plants in the store
@ibacha I kinda went over your plants, we used to collect hard to find philodendrons … Amazing how different the mature leaves look from the plants in the store
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BetteMidler
Active Member
Any reason you went with the Bridgelux LED fixture over the Samsung LED one? The Samsung cost just a little more., it is the non "E" version. Migro did a nice review on the Samsung one:I did do a lot of digging but honestly lacked any expertise so I sincerely appreciate all the help with the light selection.
I did have some background with hydro LEDs, but growing tomatoes and hydro lettuce. The game has changed.
Now with “legalization” everywhere, folks are growing “medicine” and the prices for “full spectrum” are way lower and they all come with IR and UV. $600 budget was overkill.
Here are the lights I purchased (Arriving Sunday)
It comes with both UV and IR as attachments. This feature will allow me (us) to adjust the height of those separately; basically fine tune the uMols (or whatever) ..this is outside my qualifications. The light does come with a remote app which was also key as I will need adult supervision.
* this light is missing a big gap in the blue, note the deep valley
https://a.co/d/gD9skpp
Randy Holmes-Farley
Reef Chemist
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My Tank Thread
Ghl sells direct. They are also a sponsor here.
GHL USA – Advanced Technology for your Aquarium
www.aquariumcomputer.com
OP
OP
Did I mention I just dropped $300 on essentiallyGhl sells direct. They are also a sponsor here.
GHL USA – Advanced Technology for your Aquarium
“weed lights” ? whereas the GHL model 90 is $259 (trying to figure out how many over 18” wide)
After the experiment (which might take months anyway) I
I can’t use them…but the GHLs I can …
Hmmm…. I’m on it now
edit thanks RHF
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OP
OP
Skywhite: CCT approx. 6600K. For freshwater aquariums.
90, for tank 39 – 50 cm /15.35-19.69 inches, max. 67.2 W
Cross-section 3.2 x 1.0″
Length without cable 32.8″
$259.90
90, for tank 39 – 50 cm /15.35-19.69 inches, max. 67.2 W
Cross-section 3.2 x 1.0″
Length without cable 32.8″
$259.90
OP
OP
I thought this was the Samsung model…I didn’t even notice there were two chipsets ….
They do sell the Samsung on Amazon…I thought that’s whatI bought
BetteMidler
Active Member
The Bridgelux are the "American" version badge as "E", the ones you linked. Still made in China, but HQ is in California. I think I drove past their regional location in the Carolinas before.
I hope they are not too "yellow" on the eyes.
OP
OP
oh I’m pretty certain the corals will look like baby diapers under that color temp…I’ve grown them before under 5000 … there is a reason for Blue light LOL
We grew lots of great corals under 6500k Metal halides back in the day. It brought out way more of the true colors of the coral vs the fluorescence of the zooxanthellae. I like a few hrs of 6500k ish light in the middle of the day to see the tank under those colors. The corals that people think are amazing today look dull and brown under those colors lol
OP
OP
I’ve seen a few vendors offer frags photoed under “ white light” but I’m kinda sure thats around 12kish … just enough blue to give some pop but still say it’s “white”
…but that’s still a big gap from 6500k
@lbacha
Have you ever exposed a coral JUST to 6500k (recently)?
( raised from frag to colony ONLY under 6500k)
And back in the day, those corals “raised” under 6500k, did they suffer from permanent color loss OR in your opinion were the colors actually always present, but it’s the optics of the light that bring them out?
I know this is always true to some extent (inflorescence et) but the question is geared towards “pigment color development” because of the lighting, maybe a reaction thing similar to tanning in terrestrial animals…
I’m asking because IME I never got to see a coral go from low temp MH to high color temp LED and live to tell about it.
If you recall, the next phase back then (before blue LEDs came out) was either go Radium or go T5…before LEDs I went with those 50/50 CFLs (remember those? LOL)
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