JoJo's No Funny Business Office Tank Thread
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Fishfreak2009
Follow Your Passions!
I personally hate using acclimation boxes, especially for flightly fish like wrasses that pinball of the sides and injure/kill themselves. I put a few fairies and a radiant into 2x 5 gallon buckets (which is bigger than any acclimation box I've seen), with some pvc to hide while doing a rip clean, and had a pintail, a rhomboid, a hooded flame, a laboutes, and a radiant all kill themselves slamming into the sides during the 2 hrs they were in there. The rest of the non-wrasse fish were completely fine, as were the timor wrasse, secretive wrasse, and leopard wrasse.Ok, need some opinions @Slocke @Fishfreak2009 @tbrown and anyone else wrasse-savvy. @fishguy242
Not going well with the wrasses. Pintail is laying on its side and the pencil wrasse is freaking out every time I move a muscle. Keeps running into the walls/ceiling of the acclimation box (ignoring the tub of sand I put in for it).
Acclimation box:
Pintail when he first went in:
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Pencil when he first went in (hasn't changed much):
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Pintail breathing heavy, pencil freaking out:
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Pintail now laying on its side, pencil still freaking out:
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Would it be better to get them out of this acclimation box? Or will they end up killing themselves in an anemone? I'm worried about the pintail, but I'm also worried the pencil is going to kill himself.
They've been like this for about two hours now.
Thanks!!!
For tanks where I know there may be an issue, I section a piece of the tank off using eggcrate if the fish is too large to fit through the holes, and let them get used to each other that way if necessary. For small fish, I try adding a group at once to help distract the established fish, in the evening after lights out, and feed heavily that evening. I may rearrange the scape a bit as well beforehand.
Do you have any particular fish you were worried about bullying the new guys?
I've also been using bigger tanks for quarantines (minimum a 20g long, preferably a 75 gallon) for new fish, as it is a lot more stable, and gives them room to move without hitting the glass and hurting themselves.
OP
OP
Not really. I was mostly worried the new wrasses might lash out at the pinkies. This all went south the second I started the transfer today. Next time it's going to be right into the tank.
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I got this for myself last night to help me through my last grant.
Halichoeres jojoucki
Halichoeres jojoucki
08TRDOFFROAD
Well-Known Member
I always see something else when I first see those spoons.....yes...I have problems!I got this for myself last night to help me through my last grant.
Halichoeres jojoucki
OP
OP
Now I can't unsee it!!
? What... not setting up a 7-10 split correctly?
I just had a Diamond goby that I put into the 30g proceed to run itself right into the MP10 an hour after I put it in last weekend.
OP
OP
That's terrible. Did it go through the sides or in the front? I'm looking on etsy for MP40 nem guards.
Straight thru the front... has nem guard sides. I also lost my Neiko wrasse the same way after months. Just after feeding time one day when the pumps turned back on, bam...
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@TangerineSpeedo I've got to get a piece if glass for that sump weir wall. You got some glass locally, right? Mind sending me that ref?
Two related questions:
1. Can you skin an interior glass weir wall to block light? And how would you do it and what would you use?
Here's the light I want to block on the filtration side and the return side:
2. Any tips on siliconing the 4 inch weir wall? I read that you raise the glass on toothpicks, tape the glass all around the sides, inject the silicone in the space raised by the toothpicks, then I don't remember the rest. Let it cure and then remove the toothpicks and inject silicone in the space left behind?
Thanks!!
Two related questions:
1. Can you skin an interior glass weir wall to block light? And how would you do it and what would you use?
Here's the light I want to block on the filtration side and the return side:
2. Any tips on siliconing the 4 inch weir wall? I read that you raise the glass on toothpicks, tape the glass all around the sides, inject the silicone in the space raised by the toothpicks, then I don't remember the rest. Let it cure and then remove the toothpicks and inject silicone in the space left behind?
Thanks!!
OP
OP
Losing these fish to jumping or injury is a huge letdown.
One thing I decided today: no more QT or messing around like that. Buying pre-QT'd from Socalireefs locals and plopping them right into the display.
You can use Black vinyl the waterproof kind. But you can also use black acrylic probably from amazon.@TangerineSpeedo I've got to get a piece if glass for that sump weir wall. You got some glass locally, right? Mind sending me that ref?
Two related questions:
1. Can you skin an interior glass weir wall to block light? And how would you do it and what would you use?
Here's the light I want to block on the filtration side and the return side:
2. Any tips on siliconing the 4 inch weir wall? I read that you raise the glass on toothpicks, tape the glass all around the sides, inject the silicone in the space raised by the toothpicks, then I don't remember the rest. Let it cure and then remove the toothpicks and inject silicone in the space left behind?
Thanks!!
As far as siliconing the glass/acrylic. Just raise it with a piece of wood to the height you want. Tape one side glass to glass and run another piece of tape a 1/4 inch away on the other side and run a bead from that side.
Find me at RAP and I can explain it better.
Stang67
KEEP CALM AND REEF ON
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Sprinkles are for winners.I got this for myself last night to help me through my last grant.
Halichoeres jojoucki
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Thank you! I needed a new signature
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I did a thing!
~8.4dKh, not too shabby after not testing at all for a month. Running 60mL of AFR, dios!
Also, all the growth in the tank has changed the flow patterns a bit. The pectinia in the corner had its sweepers flowing backward behind the rocks. Now it's headed in the direction of the zoa garden:
Good news on the BJD front. Looks like the expired cipro may still be working! The half-bailed head hasn't bailed anymore and no brown stuff, now. Hopefully it makes a full recovery!
A few more bright spots for the day.
Black widow went back up to the top of the rock, finally. Looking nice, too.
Yes
fatboy
Plate looking a bit crowded...
Scoly seems to be making a recovery. Recall:
Week later:
Still a bit of skeleton showing on the other side, but hopefully will start to cover that too.
A few new friends on the flower pots.
And the salvia decides to give me one flower. Just one. I'll take it.
Hydrangea and this other thing not doing so super great. Any ideas? Been giving it water in the AM. Sitting next to the magnolia, so gets some intense AM sun with some shade from the magnolia, then some intense afternoon sun.
~8.4dKh, not too shabby after not testing at all for a month. Running 60mL of AFR, dios!
Also, all the growth in the tank has changed the flow patterns a bit. The pectinia in the corner had its sweepers flowing backward behind the rocks. Now it's headed in the direction of the zoa garden:
Good news on the BJD front. Looks like the expired cipro may still be working! The half-bailed head hasn't bailed anymore and no brown stuff, now. Hopefully it makes a full recovery!
A few more bright spots for the day.
Black widow went back up to the top of the rock, finally. Looking nice, too.
Yes
fatboy
Plate looking a bit crowded...
Scoly seems to be making a recovery. Recall:
Week later:
Still a bit of skeleton showing on the other side, but hopefully will start to cover that too.
A few new friends on the flower pots.
And the salvia decides to give me one flower. Just one. I'll take it.
Hydrangea and this other thing not doing so super great. Any ideas? Been giving it water in the AM. Sitting next to the magnolia, so gets some intense AM sun with some shade from the magnolia, then some intense afternoon sun.
tbrown
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Slocke
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Perfect capture of Mrs. Pink Streak, but black and white loses their subtle beauty (and lipstick). Also, gonna need a higher res shot if I'm taking home gold on this one!
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Working on the cryptic sump design. Simulation of rocks sitting on 2 inches of sand/mud.
If I use a 10 inch black polycarb shade, that covers most of the back 2/3rd of the rocks and leaves a bit of space on the front rocks for attaching bushy macros. Perhaps orange galaxy. In the front, I'll have rubble where the hydros box is and attach tall macros like botrycladia, dragon's breath and Euchema. Botry might go further back to get less light. That 30 degree reflector will blast the PAR. Maybe birds nest Gracilaria instead.
Good stack of rocks for growing cryptic sponges and other crud.
Will add a pitho and a bunch of peppermints in there to help with bubble algae/Philips, respectively.
If I use a 10 inch black polycarb shade, that covers most of the back 2/3rd of the rocks and leaves a bit of space on the front rocks for attaching bushy macros. Perhaps orange galaxy. In the front, I'll have rubble where the hydros box is and attach tall macros like botrycladia, dragon's breath and Euchema. Botry might go further back to get less light. That 30 degree reflector will blast the PAR. Maybe birds nest Gracilaria instead.
Good stack of rocks for growing cryptic sponges and other crud.
Will add a pitho and a bunch of peppermints in there to help with bubble algae/Philips, respectively.
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