Yes, you gotta kill the worm hatchlings (before they can lay eggs of their own.) Prazi & metro won't kill the eggs.
How to Quarantine
- Thread starter Humblefish
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Yes, you gotta kill the worm hatchlings (before they can lay eggs of their own.) Prazi & metro won't kill the eggs.
Ok will do. That is why I switched from Prazi to GC thanks to you again [emoji1534]
What meds should I hit them with after if any ? I'm trying to find copper safe local right now if I don't I will order it sometimes I feel cuppermine is to strong
What is GC?
Api general cure = GC
And you like that better than prazipro? Because it kills the worms eggs?
I would probably run them thru copper after GC. Its gotta be hard to watch for ich (360 degrees) looking from above into a blue bucket.
It doesn't kill worm eggs, neither product does. GC has two advantages over Prazipro: (a) It mixes better with other medications (b) It also contains metronidazole, which treats intestinal worms. Prazi only treats external worms like flukes.
Good to know. Thank you.
Ok thank you @Humblefish was planing on doing copper trying to find copper safe
Little vid of the qt all is doing well I think I like GC more than prazi.
@Humblefish I think its flukes but my gold rim have spots I already started the next round of GC is there anything that I can do ? This is the only one in the bucket that's showing signs of anything
Why do you think its flukes? Monogeneans on the body will appear transparent and slowly crawl over the fish. So, the spots shouldn't remain stationary. Below is a photo of a clownfish with flukes on the body.
Then it's not it's a lot of white dot like spots all over
Kind of looks like when someone has an allergic reaction
@Greenstreet.1 I can see it in the video, that's either ich or velvet (look at the white dots all over the pectoral fins). You need to treat with copper or CP ASAP. You might want to consider putting that tang thru big homie's velvet protocol: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437
Man the only thing I can do right now is add cupper to the qt that I have setup for shipment later and transfer to that
Any fish he currently shares water with will also need to be treated with copper. If this is velvet (I can't be 100% sure from the video), you need to move fast. A FW dip may buy you some time if his breathing gets heavy.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Got both tangs in bucket with 20 drops of Cupramine 10g of water in bucket about to test before I put anymore. The bucket where they came from that has the GC I'm about to do a 100% WC and treat the wrasses that's in there don't really want to stress them or do you think I should try and catch them and put them in the other bucket ?
I would treat them all with Cupramine at this point, yes. Just in case this is velvet - which spreads & kills quickly. Take a full 24 hrs to get the copper up to minimum therapeutic, adding a small amount every 4-6 hrs.
Just tested with salifert and the first 20 drops got me a color little lighter than .10 so I'm already in range but will test again when I wake
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