thatmanMIKEson
Reefing ain't easy$
Great pieces of information thank you
Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum
- Thread starter Peace River
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mbonus
Community Member
Wow - what a great DIY. I'll admit this is a bit over my head. I have a 20" cube with a corner overflow and the particle board stand it deteriorating steadily. The current stand is 30" high.
I am thinking of going this route, but suck at design. Wife would definitely want sides. I'll have to keep researching...
I am thinking of going this route, but suck at design. Wife would definitely want sides. I'll have to keep researching...
We are very close to finalizing our skinned stand designs. 100% wood free. Around 7 designer finishes. All removable panels. Please visit our site in about a month and see what you think.
EDIT: Our panels will cover the entire skeleton. You will not see any aluminum framing.
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thatmanMIKEson
Reefing ain't easy$
Can you please link anything of yours for this information? This sounds great thank you!
a few stands are going through production this week. We are kicking around the idea doing a weekly build series here on R2R. Anything from an ATO reservoir to large custom tanks and stands. I think we will start off with one of our stands. I will keep you posted.
thatmanMIKEson
Reefing ain't easy$
Please do, not everyone will say something about being interested, but they are. This would be a great outlet and no doubt have people interested that may not know about this yet, like me
mbonus
Community Member
So if I have a corner overflow, is the way to go a 3 way internal corner?
or this
Is that strong enough?
I did some measurements last night, and my tank is 20.5"x20.5" with a mounting base. I was thinking that the bulkheads might be a problem if I used the design in Post #68 with the external angle gussets. The tank is only 28Gal, but I really would like to have the horizontal beams sitting on the verticals.
Also, does the tank need to sit on a board or can it rest directly on the rails. My tank is rimless, and has a base on the bottom.
Is that strong enough?
I did some measurements last night, and my tank is 20.5"x20.5" with a mounting base. I was thinking that the bulkheads might be a problem if I used the design in Post #68 with the external angle gussets. The tank is only 28Gal, but I really would like to have the horizontal beams sitting on the verticals.
Also, does the tank need to sit on a board or can it rest directly on the rails. My tank is rimless, and has a base on the bottom.
Without knowing the corner treatment I cannot say. Our corners are not designed to accept 3 ways or the other connector. Please take a look at this stand >>>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/products/magnum-aluminum-aquarium-stand-36-inchSo if I have a corner overflow, is the way to go a 3 way internal corner?
or this
Is that strong enough?
I did some measurements last night, and my tank is 20.5"x20.5" with a mounting base. I was thinking that the bulkheads might be a problem if I used the design in Post #68 with the external angle gussets. The tank is only 28Gal, but I really would like to have the horizontal beams sitting on the verticals.
Also, does the tank need to sit on a board or can it rest directly on the rails. My tank is rimless, and has a base on the bottom.
Notice that it is WAY overengineered with 45/45 legs and 45/90 horizontals. Then take a look at the corner detail. See how the leg does not go all the way up flush with the deck? It ends under the horizontal span. Your connectors will not work with this type of design.
EDIT: I reread your post and you are considering the horizontals to sit on the legs.
Something else that has not been mentioned in this thread is "shear load/stress". The easiest, but not entirely correct way to describe this is the force applied horizontally to the stand. The taller the stand the greater the tendency of it collapsing without proper bracing. I don't know what profile you intend to use nor the design so I cannot comment further on this very important and critical aspect. Perhaps smarter than me R2R hobbyist/engineers can elaborate (I am not that smart. Ask my wife.)
For the corner with the overflow the "connector" is actually "connectors" in the plural. On the horizontal deck level, use inside connectors like this one >>>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/products/45x45-millimeter-90-zinc-inside-corner-connector
and these to attach the legs to the horizontal spans >>>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/products/45x45-millimeter-4-hole-corner-bracket
Notice I said for the corner with the overflow. The other corners use the 4 hole bracket style connectors all around.
Finally, something else to keep in mind. Not all profiles are the same. I am not talking about personal preferences for one company over another but the actual detail of the profile itself. Explaining further - When you hear "you should check out [ insert store name here]. They have the best price on 30/30 profile" make sure they are comparing apples to apples. Identical profiles come in many cross sections and the differences in load ratings can be significant. I can assure you the stuff you find on Ebay at a super duper low price is the lowest end of the load spectrum. It may be fine for what you want to do with it. But know that what seem to be identical profiles can be very different.
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Here is an example of the "same" 40/40 profile with very significant differences in load capacities. Can you guess which one is the sturdiest and which is the weakest?
mbonus
Community Member
Very helpful information - thank you. If I were to take a blind guess - I would say profile one is the strongest based on wall thickness, but idk.
What about using the quick connector option that framing tech seems to use? That seems to produce an aesthetically result while still maintaining secure engagement. Would require machining to insert the cams though.
What about using the quick connector option that framing tech seems to use? That seems to produce an aesthetically result while still maintaining secure engagement. Would require machining to insert the cams though.
Yes, it would require drilling/machining. One more thing of many things. Do not use impact wrenches. You run the risk of over torquing the connectors. Be patient. Pre load the profiles.Very helpful information - thank you. If I were to take a blind guess - I would say profile one is the strongest based on wall thickness, but idk.
What about using the quick connector option that framing tech seems to use? That seems to produce an aesthetically result while still maintaining secure engagement. Would require machining to insert the cams though.
Exactly. Most awesomely. Nicely done.Skin coming into shape! Sides pinned, front magnet attached
How did you attach the magnets to the panels?Skin coming into shape! Sides pinned, front magnet attached
mbonus
Community Member
I used a cell phone metal plate with 3m adhesive at each site (6) and then attached a magnet with foam adhesive to the plate. I also attached magnets to the stand, that way it is a +- polarity and a direct connection.
mbonus
Community Member
This is more of a proof of concept. It would probably be better to epoxy the magnets and use holed disc magnets with nuts in the t-slot. The way I did it was easier to line everything up because I had the magnet assembly in place and just had to "stick" it to the stand.
I like the clean look without thru holes. We are doing it a little different using these on the stands and only one magnet cemented on the skin. For DYI first time, what you did is pretty impressive.
Devaji
7500 Club Member
any updates on this I would love to see a finished skinned stand. I have been thinking of a T slot stand for years 5+ and a new tank will happen in 18 months.
what is the "deck and shelf" material you guys use?
RedoubtReef
Valuable Member
it would be nice if the magnets were inside the T-slot.
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