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This is amazing. I’m having a 120x36x24 tank built and I think I will utilize this for the stand. Thanks for the write-up!
For those of you who have used aluminum stands, what would you place below the tank and on top of the stand? In my mind I’m thinking about abs or 1/4” aluminum sheet with a rubber mat on top. The aluminum sheet is probably a waste of money though. Probably like $1000+ for something that plywood could do. Any feedback appreciated!
Neon_reefer, Can you give any details on this stand? Do you know any dimensions on it and what size of extrusion they used. I’m looking into building a stand and doing some research.I managed to take some pictures to share with you today of my friend's 500 gallon, I thought it was a 1000G but was mistaken... Hope this will help you understand the dynamics of the setup...
hey Scott, if you message me directly, I would love to give you details on this stand, and the source of where to get the materials. just click on my profile, and choose the "start conversation" option.. as I dont want to flood this thread with unwanted posts..Neon_reefer, Can you give any details on this stand? Do you know any dimensions on it and what size of extrusion they used. I’m looking into building a stand and doing some research.
Thanks,
Scott
280$ for the parts from FramingTech. I live in Buffalo and they are in Rochester which is only an hour away so shipping was only $20 via ground! Not bad for $300…Very nice in the end!! - would you mind revealing the cost?
280$ for the parts from FramingTech. I live in Buffalo and they are in Rochester which is only an hour away so shipping was only $20 via ground! Not bad for $300…
I've never used t slot , is having a design and loads calculated important (obviously they sound like it) or can you just build like using wood for something like a 50-100 gallon tank? I'll probably be looking more into this now that I've seen it around enough.If you're going the DIY route you should compare with TNutz.com - much cheaper.
FramingTech is great if you're building for large tanks so that they can design and do load calcs.
I've used both on many occasions.
Nice work. Anyone considering skinning their stand, look into these they are called "button Fix" we have used them in the past where clients insisted on wood and they work well.Here she is. Still need to scape!
You can easily reposition the shelves. OP is using gusset connectors. very sturdy. You can use what are called "inside connectors" as well and with angle brackets, place the shelving on top of the profile. That way it is easily disassembled/moved.My concern is the shelving. How should i stack the shelving? Trying to find visual example how to build this.
I think it would be easy enough to design a small to medium stand. Admittedly I do have an engineering background but if you're not 100% happy then simply scaling a "good" design up or own won't be far from the mark.I've never used t slot , is having a design and loads calculated important (obviously they sound like it) or can you just build like using wood for something like a 50-100 gallon tank? I'll probably be looking more into this now that I've seen it around enough.
I'll check out these sites you mentioned
You have good insight. Another reason 68 is the better design is when have uneven floors. Another thing to keep in mind is if you plan to add internal overflows, the corner gussets may (more than likely will) interfere with your drain bulkheads.I think it would be easy enough to design a small to medium stand. Admittedly I do have an engineering background but if you're not 100% happy then simply scaling a "good" design up or own won't be far from the mark.
The design in post #68 is a good example where the longest horizontal beams are sat on top of the vertical legs. Compare this to the example in post #1 where the ends of the beams are only supported by the friction/clamping ability of the questionable hardware. Luckily they have a centre support.
If I was designing it myself I would probably add a few extra supports just for piece of mind.