Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
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Yeah I know, I was just scared to dose more than that by hand. I don't know if PO4 "swings" can be bad, but I assume swings of anything are bad in this hobby so I wanted to try UV since it was fairly cheap. Two capfuls should have added .1 to a 100G tank. Will keep testing and dosing.
OP
OP
mcarroll
10K Club member
Let go of that fear and start hitting the dino's where it counts – right in the P!!!
Not kidding, in spite of the humor. Boosting your P in the manner we're talking about is only going to help. You are establishing a new minimum for P so start thinking of it more like your think about alkalinity. Letting it drop IS BAD. Letting is be unavailable IS BAD.
It's the dino's.....no figuring out left. Once they get into this mode, they actively AND passively keep it this way.....nutrient deprived.
Dosing P (and N if needed too) is to get you over this hump.
Nothing can grow without available P until you start talking about bacteria – especially not high-nutrient-loving algae like chaeto – so definitely focus on getting that PO4 level up!
The new fish on the block
Well-Known Member
Is this the right stuff?
Jason mack
Monti madness
My nutrients were low .. which is what started it for me I guess .. but for the last month or so my no3 5ppm and po4 1.0 ..and I still have them .. but I have been messing with my lights a lot still .. I'm still trying too find my sweet spot ..
OP
OP
mcarroll
10K Club member
@Cscultho if PO is just 0.10 ppm, then there's room to dose a bit higher to assure that 0.10 ppm is your minimum. You may already be doing that...just not positive.
Vacuuming the sand clean and sucking out any dino strands whenever it's convenient to you should help.
Stirring them might cause as much harm as good since the dino's and mucus that form the strands are possibly toxic. (Should be less likely at these nutrient levels, but why chance it?)
Stirring also doesn't do anything about removing the detritus from old dino blooms, which is good to do. It has a strong negative effect on dissolved nutrients, in the process generating an ample bacterial food source for your arch-enemies.
Vacuuming the sand clean and sucking out any dino strands whenever it's convenient to you should help.
Stirring them might cause as much harm as good since the dino's and mucus that form the strands are possibly toxic. (Should be less likely at these nutrient levels, but why chance it?)
Stirring also doesn't do anything about removing the detritus from old dino blooms, which is good to do. It has a strong negative effect on dissolved nutrients, in the process generating an ample bacterial food source for your arch-enemies.
@Cscultho if PO is just 0.10 ppm, then there's room to dose a bit higher to assure that 0.10 ppm is your minimum. You may already be doing that...just not positive.
Vacuuming the sand clean and sucking out any dino strands whenever it's convenient to you should help.
Stirring them might cause as much harm as good since the dino's and mucus that form the strands are possibly toxic. (Should be less likely at these nutrient levels, but why chance it?)
Stirring also doesn't do anything about removing the detritus from old dino blooms, which is good to do. It has a strong negative effect on dissolved nutrients, in the process generating an ample bacterial food source for your arch-enemies.
Recieved my $12 microscope today. Please confirm what i have. thanks.
Very cool knowing exactly the pest im dealing with but now i need to figure how to get rid or control ostreopsis. Its getting frustrating knowing my N&P are at decent levels but the dino still sits on the sand. Did a water change as you suggested @mcarroll but the dinos came back.
@taricha how did you end up beating ostreopsis?
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Where was that sample from? it's strange that your sand is where they show up because that species doesn't prefer sand.
Short version. Basically this thread. Elevate N&P by dosing, while selectively killing by UV (or even better - exporting) dino cells. Keep toxins suppressed with GAC.
Minor detail, but don't withhold water changes while you are trying to get other good system diversity established. You want other good stuff to grow.
Nothing fancy, allow everything to grow, while removing dino cells. And be patient.
Short version. Basically this thread. Elevate N&P by dosing, while selectively killing by UV (or even better - exporting) dino cells. Keep toxins suppressed with GAC.
Minor detail, but don't withhold water changes while you are trying to get other good system diversity established. You want other good stuff to grow.
Nothing fancy, allow everything to grow, while removing dino cells. And be patient.
The sample was from algae on the sand bed. When my initial dino breakout occured the algae invaded both the SB and rock, nothing on the glass. My current breakout is limited to the sand.
what is GAC? Is this carbon? How long should i run this for?
rockstarta78
Well-Known Member
So after about 2 months of dosing and testing, I can say 80% of my Dino is gone. There are still big patches left on the sand bed, but the rocks look lot cleaner. For past one week it is being overtaken by green hair algae. I did a 50% water change last night. This morning when I left for work, tank looked super clean. But I can still see dino patches on the sand. I haven't had a chance to test my NO3 n PO4 after the water change. I will do that tonight. I vacuumed the sand last night. I saw a big portion of the sand bed in clumps, which tells me dino is still present. Also, I'll be interested to see how the tank behaves now that I did a major water change. If it doesn't get worse I'll do another big water change in 2 weeks. Also for the first time I am using a new salt (Fritz RPM) and I want to see the effect the salt has on my coral health. So in 2 weeks it'll be good time to test both the salt and dino growth.
@mcarroll I have couple of questions
I am seeing bryopsis coming back. This surprises me, since I used Fluconazole to treat Bryopsis last time. But I digress.........My question is, can I dose Fluco while I am dosing KNO3 n PO4? Fluco is an antibiotic, so I don't think it should have any effects on NO3 or PO4 dosing, since the understanding is Fluco is already under the assumption the column is high nutrient. But you are the expert, so you can let me know if it's okay to dose fluco, while dosing N&P. If necessary, I can wait. Bryopsis is just starting so I am not in any rush.
Sand looks like a very stubborn place where Dino loves to live. The effect of high nutrient seem to be on the top layer of the sand. I don't have a DSB, it's only about 2" ~ 2.5" deep. I am seeing a lot of dino after the first 1/4". Should I continue to do the water change every 2 weeks to do a deep siphoning or just maintain the N&P and hope that it will eventually clear up.
@mcarroll I have couple of questions
I am seeing bryopsis coming back. This surprises me, since I used Fluconazole to treat Bryopsis last time. But I digress.........My question is, can I dose Fluco while I am dosing KNO3 n PO4? Fluco is an antibiotic, so I don't think it should have any effects on NO3 or PO4 dosing, since the understanding is Fluco is already under the assumption the column is high nutrient. But you are the expert, so you can let me know if it's okay to dose fluco, while dosing N&P. If necessary, I can wait. Bryopsis is just starting so I am not in any rush.
Sand looks like a very stubborn place where Dino loves to live. The effect of high nutrient seem to be on the top layer of the sand. I don't have a DSB, it's only about 2" ~ 2.5" deep. I am seeing a lot of dino after the first 1/4". Should I continue to do the water change every 2 weeks to do a deep siphoning or just maintain the N&P and hope that it will eventually clear up.
rockstarta78
Well-Known Member
I believe so. But I didn't get it under a microscope. I should have invested in one.
Appears to have the same sesame shape as what i have.....OstreopsisFinally got around to check my dinos in a microscope. Anyone that can ID?
Same thinks on all 3 pictures, just slight difference in light intensity through the lens.
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