Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

taricha

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UV has not effected my Alexandrium dinoflagellates. I have played with flow rates around 1000, 900, 800, 700, 600, 500, 400, 300, 200, and for several weeks now 100 gph. I do not have the UV hooked up to the display. Only in my sump. Display tank utilization I would think is optimal and ran at night at minimum if not 24/7 while keeping surfaces blown off.

56watt AquaUV on my 180.

It's also surviving That UV with 220mg/h ozone running recently.

It also does just fine in the dark.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/our-tanks-biology-up-close.239838/page-34#post-3950243

Seems very resilient.

Why do you insist on breeding your own kinds of dinos that no one else has? Some kinda crazy business scheme? :)

Seriously, of like 3 or 4 kinds in your system, I've only been certain on one of them. The last kind you posted didn't even look photosynthetic at all.
 

Cscultho

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@mccaroll - The battle still continues. My N03 is 20ish and my P04 is .03 ish.

Last Friday i ended up taking the diamond goby back to the LFS since he was causing more issues than not. Once i got rid of the goby i blasted all the LR and stirred up all the sand and netted out all the dead and live Dino's. I then went into a 48hr lights out period. The sand and LR looked great for 2-days and then on Tuesday when i started to turn the lights on the dinos were making a slow return. Small strands are starting to accumulate on the sand but not on the LR. Im hoping based on the N&P levels being higher than normal the good algae will take over....Fingers crossed!! But im a bit nervous considering I have not cleaned the tank glass in almost a week. No other algae growth to be found....If the Dino-Demons come back im not sure what to do.
 

mwilk19

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@mccaroll - The battle still continues. My N03 is 20ish and my P04 is .03 ish.

Last Friday i ended up taking the diamond goby back to the LFS since he was causing more issues than not. Once i got rid of the goby i blasted all the LR and stirred up all the sand and netted out all the dead and live Dino's. I then went into a 48hr lights out period. The sand and LR looked great for 2-days and then on Tuesday when i started to turn the lights on the dinos were making a slow return. Small strands are starting to accumulate on the sand but not on the LR. Im hoping based on the N&P levels being higher than normal the good algae will take over....Fingers crossed!! But im a bit nervous considering I have not cleaned the tank glass in almost a week. No other algae growth to be found....If the Dino-Demons come back im not sure what to do.
Your PO4 at .03 could just as easily be 0. You're going to have to raise your PO4 level to see any other algae start to grow.
 

Paullawr

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I started my tank from scratch and still got dinos. Dry rock, dry sand, fresh rodi system and cycled with zeovit, and still got dinos. So if you do a full reset, you may still get the same problem if you stay ULNS from the start. It happened to me, just my 2 cents.
Yeah been there got the t shirt.

Two tank restarts one of which full new system.

The problem is they are as abundant as the salt water in the bag your fish arrive in. Seriously I don't think there is a LFS without them.

Whether it's your first purchase for new tank or one two months down the line you will get one or more species. It's like trying to prevent GHA getting in your system.

You can keep it at bay but it's there....waiting,

My advice is don't do the whole tank change. Too costly and not worth it,
 

Paullawr

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400 million years+ and still going strong! :D
And thanks to them.....we exist. Cyano, microalges and protists help change the atmosphere from a sulphur and carbon to breathable o2.

They will be here long after Donald Trump, you and I.
 

Paullawr

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UV has not effected my Alexandrium dinoflagellates. I have played with flow rates around 1000, 900, 800, 700, 600, 500, 400, 300, 200, and for several weeks now 100 gph. I do not have the UV hooked up to the display. Only in my sump. Display tank utilization I would think is optimal and ran at night at minimum if not 24/7 while keeping surfaces blown off.

56watt AquaUV on my 180.

It's also surviving That UV with 220mg/h ozone running recently.

It also does just fine in the dark.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/our-tanks-biology-up-close.239838/page-34#post-3950243


Seems very resilient.

You are not alone Jason. I had them, too. Don't think anyone believed me. They move like crap off a shovel. Seriously these are the NASCAR of the Dino realm. No silly twirly motions they move as if hunting.
 

Paullawr

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Why do you insist on breeding your own kinds of dinos that no one else has? Some kinda crazy business scheme? :)

Seriously, of like 3 or 4 kinds in your system, I've only been certain on one of them. The last kind you posted didn't even look photosynthetic at all.
I dont think they are. I think they hunt. I had them (may still do) very hard for me to capture them on camera as they are very fast.
 
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mcarroll

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@mccaroll - The battle still continues. My N03 is 20ish and my P04 is .03 ish.

What @mwilk19 said! :)

Remember that 0.10 ppm is the minimum you're shooting for. If it's still dipping under that level when you do your next test, then you need to up your dose.
 

jason2459

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I don't remember the last time my PO4 was over 0.09. It's normally around 0.02 to 0.09. I prefer it over 0.03.
 

Pmj

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So update for me. I was dosing two capfuls of Flourish PO4 and it was 0 on Hanna ULR in a two days and dinos were still awful. I finally gave in and tried UV and, just running it since last night around 6 PM, the tank looks like a new tank. Sand is sparkling looking at the tank from the front and huge reduction in visible dinos. My gorg actually has it's polyps out for the first time in weeks since it's not being irritated with slime. I'll see if it's completely eradicated in a few days and check back, but results are nothing short of amazing so far.

Also for reference, using:
Jebao 36W
Quiet One 3000 - not exactly slow, probably 400 GPH
100G tank
 

Lowefx

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So update for me. I was dosing two capfuls of Flourish PO4 and it was 0 on Hanna ULR in a two days and dinos were still awful. I finally gave in and tried UV and, just running it since last night around 6 PM, the tank looks like a new tank. Sand is sparkling looking at the tank from the front and huge reduction in visible dinos. My gorg actually has it's polyps out for the first time in weeks since it's not being irritated with slime. I'll see if it's completely eradicated in a few days and check back, but results are nothing short of amazing so far.

Also for reference, using:
Jebao 36W
Quiet One 3000 - not exactly slow, probably 400 GPH
100G tank
What size and kind of IF? What flow and schedule.
 

Pmj

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I put it in the post, jebao 36W model with the quiet one 3000 pump turned all the way down. 3/4 tubing.

I'm running pump in the DT, UV hung over the tank for now. Was hoping to just run it for a few days and take it off if it works correctly. Then go back to keeping my nutrients up.
 
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mcarroll

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lol

I don't even try now. I do feed a lot too. I have never tried to achieve a dirty or clean method.

To be clear, this is not "dirty method" to the extent that "dirty method" is even a real thing. (Is there even an FAQ somewhere??) :p

From the (admittedly few) descriptions I've heard, "dirty method" is more like "senseless overfeeding" or "neglect". No thanks! :D

"Feeding a lot" is also not the same thing.

Specifically to this thread, 0.10 ppm and other levels have been tested (search for posts on this thread by @taricha) and 0.10 ppm literally seems to have a preventive effect. The reasons why aren't even that mysterious if you wanted to go into the detail. (I think the supporting lit has all been posted in this thread, but check my blog too....likely to be more and newer links there.)

So, if you're having "weirdo algae" issues I would try it....otherwise, if your tank is running fine, then it's probably not for you. :)

If you try it, note that results can vary a bit. If you read back through the attempts, some get overnight results with others taking a week or more – but they more or less all end successfully.

I think most folks have kept dosing after their "weirdo algae" was gone, but I remember at least one person has already stopped. The idea of dosing like this is mostly a short term proposition to get past the blooming phase of dino's/whatever.

What happens at "correct" nutrient levels to defeat the bloom seems to be pretty automatic....in all but the most-wrecked tanks.

However, added disturbances like UV or diatom filtration, sand bed cleaning, blasting rocks with a powerhead, inoculations via fresh live rock, sand or detritus from a healthy tank, etc can all help to speed progress if that seems necessary. (These added tools have not been necessary in all cases.)
 
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mcarroll

mcarroll

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I was dosing two capfuls of Flourish PO4 and it was 0 on Hanna ULR in a two days

You are not dosing enough then.....0.10 ppm is the minimum you're dosing for, not the maximum. Dino's will keep blooming until N and P are persistently available.

Keep upping the dose until you get 0.10 ppm when you come back to re-test.

Once you reach that level then you can back off to a maintenance dose.

Keep using the UV.
 
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