Cycling an Aquarium

[brandon429]

Not many of us do test for pH in cycling thats true. Some use it for assessing home co2 level issues/ long term growth tuning/ but related to cycling I think a poll will show 1% using it during cycle and 99 not

even though the 99 rarely agree on cycling means lol we don’t need pH much.

 

[canadianeh]

Since the goal of cycling is to see nitrate number goes up and ammonia can be consumed within 24 hours, what’s the point for testing nitrite. Assuming I will wait for at least a month or longer before adding fish. Can I just not test for nitrite and just test for ammonia and nitrate?

 

[Zionas]

I am not sure if I’ll have access to pure ammonia in China, so maybe my cycling will be with cured live rock only. In that case, is it still possible that I won’t see nitrites (and therefore not have to go through the nitrite cycle) and I’ll only have to pay attention to ammonia?

Just to clarify, my tank is above 90 gallons. Do I consider it cycled and ready for livestock once I see ammonia drop from 1-2ppm to 0ppm within 24 hours and nitrites are also at zero?

I remember @revhtree posting another article that has the dead shrimp method and the article mentions a 6-stage cycle with the nitrite, nitrate, and other bacterial cycles included after the ammonia phase.

 

[Brew12]

Since the goal of cycling is to see nitrate number goes up and ammonia can be consumed within 24 hours, what’s the point for testing nitrite. Assuming I will wait for at least a month or longer before adding fish. Can I just not test for nitrite and just test for ammonia and nitrate?

The main reason is because nitrite will show up as nitrate on a nitrate test. If nitrate goes up, the only way to confirm it is actually nitrates is to verify that you have no nitrites. Most hobby level nitrate tests work by breaking the nitrate down into nitrite and then measuring it. So, nitrate tests are only accurate if you have no nitrite initially.

 

[Brew12]

I am not sure if I’ll have access to pure ammonia in China, so maybe my cycling will be with cured live rock only. In that case, is it still possible that I won’t see nitrites (and therefore not have to go through the nitrite cycle) and I’ll only have to pay attention to ammonia?

Just to clarify, my tank is above 90 gallons. Do I consider it cycled and ready for livestock once I see ammonia drop from 1-2ppm to 0ppm within 24 hours and nitrites are also at zero?

I remember @revhtree posting another article that has the dead shrimp method and the article mentions a 6-stage cycle with the nitrite, nitrate, and other bacterial cycles included after the ammonia phase.

There really is nothing that defines a "cycled tank". There are plenty of other things that can cause issues with a new tank apart from ammonia being processed quickly enough. I would consider a tank that size ready for a few small fish if you see that rate of ammonia drop.

 

[Zionas]

My tank is going to be 165 gallons, 5 foot by 2.3 foot by 2 foot. Here’s my stocking plan in the order I plan to include them:

First 3 fish- One-Spot Foxface and a pair of Ocellaris

PJ Cardinal trio

Marine Betta (or before the PJ Cardinals if the Betta is available early)

3 Stripeys (Microcanthus strigaster)

Back and White Heniochus

Flame Hawk pair


So for my tank, if I see the ammonia drop from 1ppm to 0 within 24 hours, you think “a few small fish” would be ready to go into my tank. Would the addition of a Foxface as among my first fish cause trouble and make ammonia levels shoot back up again?

If you feel that may be likely, I’ll add the Pajama Cardinal trio as my first three fish.

 

[Brew12]

My tank is going to be 165 gallons, 5 foot by 2.3 foot by 2 foot. Here’s my stocking plan in the order I plan to include them:

First 3 fish- One-Spot Foxface and a pair of Ocellaris

PJ Cardinal trio

Marine Betta (or before the PJ Cardinals if the Betta is available early)

3 Stripeys (Microcanthus strigaster)

Back and White Heniochus

Flame Hawk pair


So for my tank, if I see the ammonia drop from 1ppm to 0 within 24 hours, you think “a few small fish” would be ready to go into my tank. Would the addition of a Foxface as among my first fish cause trouble and make ammonia levels shoot back up again?

If you feel that may be likely, I’ll add the Pajama Cardinal trio as my first three fish.

I wouldn't have any concerns with the Foxface being an initial addition unless you found one over 5" long.

 

[Zionas]

I plan to get them smaller than that plus the One-Spot is a bit smaller than the Foxface Lo. I plan to get my specimen anywhere from 2” to 4”.

Thanks for the help, I’ll go with my original plan.

 

[canadianeh]

The main reason is because nitrite will show up as nitrate on a nitrate test. If nitrate goes up, the only way to confirm it is actually nitrates is to verify that you have no nitrites. Most hobby level nitrate tests work by breaking the nitrate down into nitrite and then measuring it. So, nitrate tests are only accurate if you have no nitrite initially.

Ahh I see. Learned something new thanks

 

[cvrle1]

Since I will be cycling rocks outside the tank in a brute can, and then transferring rocks into tank once tank is ready to go and cycle is done, I have 2 quick questions:

Once transfer happens, should I use water from brute can, as well as new, or do all new water?
If no water is to be transferred, I guess I can use whatever salt I want for cycling. I am 99.999999999% sure this is true, but wanted to check in case I missed something.

Thanks

 

[Brew12]

Since I will be cycling rocks outside the tank in a brute can, and then transferring rocks into tank once tank is ready to go and cycle is done, I have 2 quick questions:

Once transfer happens, should I use water from brute can, as well as new, or do all new water?
If no water is to be transferred, I guess I can use whatever salt I want for cycling. I am 99.999999999% sure this is true, but wanted to check in case I missed something.

Thanks

You can either leave the water behind or reuse it. You may want to be careful to check the nitrate, phosphate, calcium and alkalinity level of the old water if you decide to transfer it over.

 

[canadianeh]

I have 65 gallons Red Sea Reefer 250. I am using Caribsea liferock and dr Tim’s products to do the fishless cycling.

do I add fish first or CUC first?

can I add two clowns at the same time when the cycle is over? Or is it too much? The reason to add two at the same time is to minimize conflict between the two.

 

[Brew12]

I have 65 gallons Red Sea Reefer 250. I am using Caribsea liferock and dr Tim’s products to do the fishless cycling.

do I add fish first or CUC first?

can I add two clowns at the same time when the cycle is over? Or is it too much? The reason to add two at the same time is to minimize conflict between the two.

Adding 2 clowns would be fine.
As for a CuC, add them when your tank needs them unless you plan on feeding them.

 

[Matys82]

I'm started my 100 gallon reef tank 5 weeks ago on 90lbs dry rock and dry sand, adding 70ml 10% ammonia solution and 16oz. Microbe-lift SPECIAL BLEND bacteria to start cycling.
My biological filtration is 1kg MAXSPECT BioSpheres in sump. After 5 weeks NH3 = 0 / NO2=0 / and my NO3 is maxout on Salifert test scale >100ppm.
Today i addet some Chaetomorpha to sump and start lightning it for 12h.
How can i reduce NO3?
Should I wait?
Wat is the NO3 safe level to clown fish?
50gallon water cheange is the last thing I would like to do. (time to produce water and buying new salt)

 

[canadianeh]

Adding 2 clowns would be fine.
As for a CuC, add them when your tank needs them unless you plan on feeding them.

Regarding CUC, how do I know when my tank needs them?

Also I appreciate it if you can give me your opinion on my cycling process right now.

Cycling using Dr Tim’s products and I am also using Caribsea purple liferock

Day 1
Dose 60 drops of ammonia

Day 2
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrate 25

Day 3
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrate 2.5
Then after added more ammonia drops

Day 4
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 2.5

Day 5
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 2

Day 6
Added more ammonia
15 minutes later ammonia test shows 0.5

Day 7
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0.5
Nitrate 5

According to dr Tim’s, on day 9 I can add fish.

 

[Brew12]

Regarding CUC, how do I know when my tank needs them?

Also I appreciate it if you can give me your opinion on my cycling process right now.

Cycling using Dr Tim’s products and I am also using Caribsea purple liferock

Day 1
Dose 60 drops of ammonia

Day 2
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrate 25

Day 3
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrate 2.5
Then after added more ammonia drops

Day 4
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 2.5

Day 5
Ammonia 0.25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 2

Day 6
Added more ammonia
15 minutes later ammonia test shows 0.5

Day 7
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0.5
Nitrate 5

According to dr Tim’s, on day 9 I can add fish.

I'm not sure your tank will be ready on day 9. I would want to see a little more nitrate than you currently have to make sure things are processing correctly.

As for a CuC, you should visually see whatever it is that you want the CuC to eat. If you see diatoms, add stuff that can eat diatoms. If you see hair algae, add your CuC to eat hair algae.

 

[canadianeh]

I'm not sure your tank will be ready on day 9. I would want to see a little more nitrate than you currently have to make sure things are processing correctly.

As for a CuC, you should visually see whatever it is that you want the CuC to eat. If you see diatoms, add stuff that can eat diatoms. If you see hair algae, add your CuC to eat hair algae.

Hmm I wonder what I am doing or what I have is different. Or, what I am experiencing is just a normal little variations here and there? Shouldn't it be the same as what Dr Tims says on their website? Is it possible that my ammonia chloride expired? It is the same Dr Tims ammonia that I was using to cycle my first tank 3 years ago

 

[dvlpr]

My tank took 30 days to cycle* with Dr Tims and even then it is still showing ammonia with API, but tests for free ammonia (which is what's toxic) is 0, so I added fish and a small CUC after the 30 days.

* I think the tank is not cycled yet, but it's safe for fish now. I don't think any tank can cycle in less than 3-4 weeks, no matter what the products promise you.

 

[Brew12]

Hmm I wonder what I am doing or what I have is different. Or, what I am experiencing is just a normal little variations here and there? Shouldn't it be the same as what Dr Tims says on their website? Is it possible that my ammonia chloride expired? It is the same Dr Tims ammonia that I was using to cycle my first tank 3 years ago

I'm sure it could be any number of things. It does sound like your ammonia chloride didn't give you the addition you expected.

My tank took 30 days to cycle* with Dr Tims and even then it is still showing ammonia with API, but tests for free ammonia (which is what's toxic) is 0, so I added fish and a small CUC after the 30 days.

* I think the tank is not cycled yet, but it's safe for fish now. I don't think any tank can cycle in less than 3-4 weeks, no matter what the products promise you.

There isn't a commonly accepted definition for when a tank is "cycled". I try to be careful not to use that term. I feel most people want to know when a tank is ready to safely and humanely start adding fish. I personally wouldn't add fish into his system yet, but I can't say that it wouldn't be ok. I would want to either see a higher level of ammonia that gets broken down faster, or a higher level of nitrate with no nitrite to be assured that it is breaking the ammonia down quickly.

 

[dvlpr]

There isn't a commonly accepted definition for when a tank is "cycled". I try to be careful not to use that term. I feel most people want to know when a tank is ready to safely and humanely start adding fish. I personally wouldn't add fish into his system yet, but I can't say that it wouldn't be ok. I would want to either see a higher level of ammonia that gets broken down faster, or a higher level of nitrate with no nitrite to be assured that it is breaking the ammonia down quickly.

I'm really new in this hobby - had my first ever FW tank for just over a year (since December 2018) and I made most mistakes in there (well, those that I know of...), then fell in love with SW, sold the FW and just getting my feet salted in this one. So, when I say cycled - it does actually mean only when I can add fish, nothing more. I'm reading 0 nitrite and less than 5 nitrate, but I'm still dosing a bit of bacteria (AquaForest Bio S) daily, since I have some left, so my results are probably as atypical as most others.

I know time will settle everything - when I had my FW tank, I was tinkering every day and trying to get things going and working, but then I went away for a few weeks on business and came back and... nothing bad happened. That's when I had a change of mindset and started to give things more time. After that, I had no issues with my FW tank - it pretty much ran on its own. I'm trying to be as patient with my current tank, but being a new one, I can't resist I will stop tinkering one day though... Hopefully it survives till I do that!