Current Quarantine Protocol

[threebuoys]

Jay,

this is great information. I’ve been out of the hobby for over 10 years and a lot has changed since then.

I picked up a 20gal tall from PetCo yesterday as all of their tanks were 50% off and $24 for a brand new QT tank seemed like a great deal.
I’ve always liked to paint the back black and the bottom white for my QTs. I feel a black back combined with a large PVC T provides a place for the fish to “hide” and help them with the healing process. I like the white bottom because it helps show where leftover food or poop needs to be vacuumed out and also helps me observe the fish.

Questions:

1: I have a small powerhead in there currently. Should I remove it?

2: In your current steps you mention to acclimate the fish but didn’t elaborate. I went to the sticky with the links and the first link has acclimation steps, but the QT steps are different from your latest post here. So I’m kind of confused. Obviously I want to follow the latest guidelines in this thread. However what is the best way to acclimate a fish just brought home from the store prior to adding to the QT? I used to drip acclimate. Is that still the best practice?

Mike,
I believe Jay is out of pocket for a day or two.

With regard to the powerhead, you should be fine as long as it doesn't overpower the particular species you have in QT and if you have some type of structure where the fish can hide if they don't like it.

With regard to acclimation, drip acclimation still works well. However, if you buy a fish on-line, the ammonia levels may spike before you can complete, particularly if deliver is delayed for more than 24 hours. In that case you will want to aerate the water, measure for ammonia if you have an accurate test kit, and possibly acclimate more quickly. Jay also cautions about increasing the salinity too quickly for both fish purchased on-line and from the LFS. Below are a couple of quotes from a recent thread where Jay discussed this issue.

Do you know the specific gravity/salinity of the dealer's tank compared to yours? I see a lot of acclimation issues when dealers hold there fish at 1.020 and then folks try to acclimate them to full salinity at home - that causes fish to dehydrate, and smaller, thinner fish (like Biota tangs) have more of an issue with this.

Jay

Yea the salinity was at 1.02 and i had brought him up to 1.025 over the course of an hour or so maybe, he was in 1.025 for about 48 hours before he died, He was very small.
No luck with the fish store on that front... thanks for the reply

Sorry - that is likely too large of a rise for a small YT to go through in an hour. One trick is to drop the salinity of the destination tank to 1.020, then acclimate the new fish over, then gradually bring up the salinity of that tank up over 2 days or so. For small fish, I try not to raise the specific gravity more than 1.003 units in 24 hours. Oddly, you can drop the specific gravity much faster, the fish tolerate that just fine.

Jay

Appreciate that, ill be much more careful about that in the future thats for sure.

 

[Kiorayla]

Rock just will absorb the copper. You don’t want anything in the QT tank that is capable of absorbing copper due to the chance of it dropping below the 2.0 and having to restart again. And I definitely wouldn’t put any rock from the QT tank back into the display tank

Especially not if keeping shrimps too

 

[Kiorayla]

Jay,

this is great information. I’ve been out of the hobby for over 10 years and a lot has changed since then.

I picked up a 20gal tall from PetCo yesterday as all of their tanks were 50% off and $24 for a brand new QT tank seemed like a great deal.
I’ve always liked to paint the back black and the bottom white for my QTs. I feel a black back combined with a large PVC T provides a place for the fish to “hide” and help them with the healing process. I like the white bottom because it helps show where leftover food or poop needs to be vacuumed out and also helps me observe the fish.

Questions:

1: I have a small powerhead in there currently. Should I remove it?

2: In your current steps you mention to acclimate the fish but didn’t elaborate. I went to the sticky with the links and the first link has acclimation steps, but the QT steps are different from your latest post here. So I’m kind of confused. Obviously I want to follow the latest guidelines in this thread. However what is the best way to acclimate a fish just brought home from the store prior to adding to the QT? I used to drip acclimate. Is that still the best practice?

We always Float Acclimate them in the water for 20ish minutes, then drip acclimate every 10 minutes for 30 minutes

 

[MamaP]

Hi, All. I have a question. If you're treating a fish in copper and another comes down with something, can you add the other fish without starting the clock over, or do you have to reset the clock?

Thank you!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hi, All. I have a question. If you're treating a fish in copper and another comes down with something, can you add the other fish without starting the clock over, or do you have to reset the clock?

Thank you!

I always start the clock over again at day 1. My typical copper treatment is coppersafe for 30 days. If I move a new fish into the QT, even if it doesn't show signs of active disease, I reset that 30 day timer to day 1. I'm never in any rush getting fish out of quarantine - I can still enjoy them there, so I never worry about getting them into the DT.....

Jay

 

[MamaP]

I always start the clock over again at day 1. My typical copper treatment is coppersafe for 30 days. If I move a new fish into the QT, even if it doesn't show signs of active disease, I reset that 30 day timer to day 1. I'm never in any rush getting fish out of quarantine - I can still enjoy them there, so I never worry about getting them into the DT.....

Jay

Thank you, Jay. The only reason I hate to drag it out is because they're in a much smaller tank (5 fish - biggest are 3" - in ea. 20g long, which is not ideal, but they're the largest spares I have).

I'm on my 3rd ich outbreak in my 2 years of reef keeping. First was before I knew about QT'ing; second I suspect was brought in on a frag or CUC. This time, I suspect it was from macroalgae added to DT. I lost my beautiful WTBT tang this past week (even though she showed no signs) and I'm now seeing signs on 3/10 fish, so I'm going to have to treat them all... again... Seriously considering immunity vs. QT'ing at this point, since it seems impossible to keep ich out.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thank you, Jay. The only reason I hate to drag it out is because they're in a much smaller tank (5 fish - biggest are 3" - in ea. 20g long, which is not ideal, but they're the largest spares I have).

I'm on my 3rd ich outbreak in my 2 years of reef keeping. First was before I knew about QT'ing; second I suspect was brought in on a frag or CUC. This time, I suspect it was from macroalgae added to DT. I lost my beautiful WTBT tang this past week (even though she showed no signs) and I'm now seeing signs on 3/10 fish, so I'm going to have to treat them all... again... Seriously considering immunity vs. QT'ing at this point, since it seems impossible to keep ich out.

Immunity works partially, but it also seems to have a time limit to it. I trust my quarantine process, but I always have a “plan B” in the wings if/when there is a failure.
Jay

 

[DrMMI]

@Jay Hemdal Does the tank need to be continuously at 81 degrees for the full 6 weeks? For example, if the temp drops down below that for a day or so, does the 6 week clock reset?
I'm 2 and a half weeks into my coral quarantine and forgot to plug my heater back in last night. Tank got down to at least 78 by the time I realized almost 24 hours later.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal Does the tank need to be continuously at 81 degrees for the full 6 weeks? For example, if the temp drops down below that for a day or so, does the 6 week clock reset?
I'm 2 and a half weeks into my coral quarantine and forgot to plug my heater back in last night. Tank got down to at least 78 by the time I realized almost 24 hours later.

The entire process isn't set in stone like that. It is more like, "warmer water and longer fallow periods are safer than cooler water and shorter periods of time". So, no, the clock does not reset with a short drop in temperature. If you can run the tank a bit warmer than 81, you can be even more sure that the ich tomonts are dead from lack of host. Back in the pre-reef tank days, I would let a tank lay fallow at 85 F. Corals don't appreciate that though....

Jay

 

[tammieh]

I have a few questions about this QT process ....

1. Is the Hanna high range copper tester an effective tester for copper level using coppersafe?
2. Can you run the skimmer during this QT process?
3. Should my eel go into a separate QT using CP instead of copper? What diseases do I need to worry about him hosting? Or can he stay in the fallow tank?
4. If Brook is suspected, do I need an additional medication in QT to prevent future outbreaks? Planning on a 76+ day quarantine.

Thanks! Planning on purchasing the needed medications this weekend and hopefully start moving fish into QT later this week.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Good questions -

1. Is the Hanna high range copper tester an effective tester for copper level using coppersafe? Yes

2. Can you run the skimmer during this QT process? Yes, but take the cup off during praziquantel treatments

3. Should my eel go into a separate QT using CP instead of copper? What diseases do I need to worry about him hosting? Or can he stay in the fallow tank? If the eel is healthy, it may go off feed, but will survive Coppersafe. Treating it with CP would work, but not leaving it untreated, as they can develop velvet.

4. If Brook is suspected, do I need an additional medication in QT to prevent future outbreaks? Planning on a 76+ day quarantine. This quarantine process does NOT handle Brooklynella. Formalin would be a better treatment for that. Personally, I haven't had any cases of Brook since I stopped dealing with wild caught clownfish, but I do know its still out there.....

Jay

 

[bReefedBaker]

2021 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough



Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank.

Tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 3: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 80 degrees.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 4: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlor) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 5 – 34: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.

Day 35: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Zeolites such as Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 36: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 41, Day 48: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart.

Day 62: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

What are the odds I just bought my QT tank today….. #r2r #reeflife #happyreefing

 

[tammieh]

Good questions -

1. Is the Hanna high range copper tester an effective tester for copper level using coppersafe? Yes

2. Can you run the skimmer during this QT process? Yes, but take the cup off during praziquantel treatments

3. Should my eel go into a separate QT using CP instead of copper? What diseases do I need to worry about him hosting? Or can he stay in the fallow tank? If the eel is healthy, it may go off feed, but will survive Coppersafe. Treating it with CP would work, but not leaving it untreated, as they can develop velvet.

4. If Brook is suspected, do I need an additional medication in QT to prevent future outbreaks? Planning on a 76+ day quarantine. This quarantine process does NOT handle Brooklynella. Formalin would be a better treatment for that. Personally, I haven't had any cases of Brook since I stopped dealing with wild caught clownfish, but I do know its still out there.....

Jay

Thank you so much!

Would you do a formalin dip right as we go into the QT tank to start off the process or later on in the QT process?

I don't know that we had brook, but my clownfish of 8 years became ill and died after combining these two tanks. It very well could have been something else. He had been through a couple of moves, a hurricane evacuation, and a tank leaking and emergency transfer without any issues until now.

The eel appears healthy. I just noticed that this thread lists chelated copper as a no-go for eels. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thank you so much!

Would you do a formalin dip right as we go into the QT tank to start off the process or later on in the QT process?

I don't know that we had brook, but my clownfish of 8 years became ill and died after combining these two tanks. It very well could have been something else. He had been through a couple of moves, a hurricane evacuation, and a tank leaking and emergency transfer without any issues until now.

The eel appears healthy. I just noticed that this thread lists chelated copper as a no-go for eels. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/

I don’t like to use formalin as a “clearing dip”, it can be very stressful and one dip isn’t going to be 100% effective anyway. For brooklynella, it is either used as a daily dip, or a static bath at a lower dose.
I would wonder if your clown had Brook, I’ve never had it show up on long term captives before.
Jay

 

[StPatrick89]

I don’t like to use formalin as a “clearing dip”, it can be very stressful and one dip isn’t going to be 100% effective anyway. For brooklynella, it is either used as a daily dip, or a static bath at a lower dose.
I would wonder if your clown had Brook, I’ve never had it show up on long term captives before.
Jay

I’ve read where you say what days to do this and do that, but couldn’t you just QT, observe for a longer period of time and if you see anything then administer meds? Also, how long would it really take for a disease to show up? Before I started QT I had a disease show up maybe a week after putting the fish in my tank, and Uronema show up 4 days after putting the chromis in an empty tank and having to start over. So, again I maybe wrong, if someone waits say 2 weeks and observes but never sees any type of disease, isn’t that better than wait 2-1/2months, and stressing the fish out with meds that they MAY NOT need? I get the better safe than sorry but how much is the stress of meds inducing a disease? I’d be absolutely ticked off if I went through 50+ days of QT and my fish still got ich, which I’m seeing a lot of people still experience, even on this thread. Understand im not asking to be defiant but because im new and I see this isn’t a one size fit all hobby, im really curious due to results of not only myself but others whether good or bad.

 

[SaltwaterGuruNeeded]

2021 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough



Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank.

Tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 3: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 80 degrees.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 4: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlor) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 5 – 34: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.

Day 35: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Zeolites such as Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 36: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 41, Day 48: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart.

Day 62: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

You forgot to not.cross contaminate between the display and the quarantine!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

You forgot to not.cross contaminate between the display and the quarantine!

I can add that, thought that was a given (grin).

Jay

 

[ctopherl]

2021 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough



Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank.

Tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 3: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 80 degrees.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 4: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlor) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 5 – 34: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.

Day 35: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Zeolites such as Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 36: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 41, Day 48: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart.

Day 62: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Can the length of copper treatment be cut to ~2 weeks if the fish is then transferred to a new sterile QT?

Metroplex isn’t needed in addition to praziquantel? Isn’t there some internal stuff that metro gets but prazi doesn’t?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Can the length of copper treatment be cut to ~2 weeks if the fish is then transferred to a new sterile QT?

Metroplex isn’t needed in addition to praziquantel? Isn’t there some internal stuff that metro gets but prazi doesn’t?

No - the copper treatment needs to be kept at 30 days. I've used copper/citric acid for 14 days, and then move to a clean tank, but that material is much harsher and is actually where all of the "copper toxicity" ideas come from. For Coppersafe, while it is truly safe, it also takes longer to work....

I don't routinely use Metronidazole. I guess it should be more clearly stated that this protocol is fixed UNLESS there are other symptoms, then those issues would be addressed - those issues would include bacterial infections, and internal issues. API's General Cure also seems to be off the market.

Jay

 

[Plandauesq]

2021 Quarantine Procedures

Jay Hemdal
David Scarborough



Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding the fish to your display tank.

Tank Requirements:

Tank must be large enough to comfortably handle the number and size of fish for up to 9 weeks.

• Tank should have a filtration system that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Canisters, HOB overflow filters, or appropriately sized sponge filters are acceptable.
• The filtration system must not use carbon or other absorbing/adsorbing filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter) that might absorb copper or medication. NO calcareous rock LIVE or DEAD
• Bare bottom should be used. A saucer with non-absorbing sand can be utilized for wrasses, gobies, blennies or other species which are overly stressed by the bare bottom. Painting the underside of the tank black can also help
• Heater/thermometer
• Removable structure, e.g. PVC pipe may be used to provide hiding places for the fish.
• Ambient light will often be adequate for the QT tank.
• A means to maintain oxygen levels should be available. Air stones and sponge filters are usually adequate.
• A lid should be used to prevent the fish from jumping out of the tank.
• Set salinity level and temperature to the same levels as in your Display Tank.

Days 1 – 3: Observation - let the fish settle in and determine proper diet.

• Set QT temperature to 80 degrees.
• Acclimate the new fish to the QT.
• Observe the fish for any symptoms which might influence the treatment(s) you should administer.
• Determine if the fish are eating adequately to proceed.

Day 4: Begin Copper Treatment

• Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
• Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlor) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
• Feed and top off tank water normally.

Days 5 – 34: Continue Copper Treatment

• Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
• Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
• If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.

Day 35: Copper Done

• Begin copper removal through water changes.
• Zeolites such as Cuprisorb may be used to hasten the removal process.
• Carbon is usually too slow or ineffective at removing copper and should not be relied upon without adequate monitoring.

Day 36: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

Day 41, Day 48: Praziquantel Treatment #2, #3

• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label, 7 days apart.

Day 62: New Fish QT complete

• Observe fish for 2 weeks after last prazi dose. Note: many public aquariums do not move fish out of quarantine unless they are in the middle of a full copper treatment. This vastly reduces the risk from Cryptocaryon or Amyloodinium. To use that method, substitute a copper treatment for this 2 week observation period, and move the fish out around day 10.
• Conduct a 5-minute fresh water dip if the fish is of a species particularly susceptible to Neobenedenia flukes. If flukes are detected, reduce QT salinity to 50% and hold for an additional 35 days.
• Confirm salinity and temperature of QT and DT are the same, add fish to DT.

Jay, question for you, let's say my QT tank is drained and empty and today I go out to my LFS and buy a new fish. How do I go about getting the QT tank quickly up and running?