Swung by my LFS and grabbed some ammo to fight this war
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To be safe I’d go separate.It was absolute chaos and I had to take almost everything out of the DT but all fish are now in their shiny new QT tank. They ate and got their copper. Let's hope they all start feeling better soon. The winner of hardest fish to catch of the day goes to the chromis. I bet on the shrimp goby because he is so dang fast but it was the goby, then the firefish and finally the chromis. I basically just chucked everything back into the tank. I didn't feel like trying to re-scape now. The chase after 12 fish was exhausting. I'll likely re-scape tomorrow after the dust settles.
#fishmedic - I added the copper. My LFS also gave me Fritz paracleanse and said it could be used at the same time. True or should I wait on it?
So following Jay's guide, wait until day 35 for the paracleanse, right? That is what I will do then!!To be safe I’d go separate.
I would dose the paracleanse later on, but it is essentially the same as General Cure, and people have mixed that and copper power at the same time…So following Jay's guide, wait until day 35 for the paracleanse, right? That is what I will do then!!
Thanks. The funny part is that since it's a corner tank, it's footprint is almost the same as my current tank. I'm using all the wasted space in the corner behind my current tank and it's maybe a foot or less taller. Getting an amazing deal on the tank too.great job with your QT setup.
And that is a NICE tank you are considering. Wish I had a place for something like that.
Is there a better Ammonia test I can grab? I also have the little ammonia sensor suction cupped inside the tank. It's between yellow and green atm, not fully green. The copper, I've added quite a bit over the past 3 days. I'm going to get the hanna test because I don't want to overdose. The chromis was red on his side... Here's pix of both of them. I have the air stone going in there, how high should i set it?Keep up the water changes. I’d use fresh salt water.
Api ammonia test measures both toxic and non toxic ammonia and is prone to misreads. Either way that’s definitely high. Try doing the test again, make sure to really shake up both bottles beforehand.
Get copper up to 2.5 ppm, it’s possible the fish are still dying from disease rather than ammonia (check for red gills and fast breathing). Increase aeration in the tank.
How large of water changes should I be doing and how often? Should I be worried about the copper level with the frequent changes? I want to do my best to try to keep it in the therapeutic range.Salifert or hanna is better for ammonia.
Hard to tell with the clown out of water.
The chromis had uronema, it’s very common in chromis and anthias, as well as some wrasses. It is very lethal with no cure, but it typically doesn’t spread much. Nothing you could have done for it.
What in my DT is great. Everything in there is healthy and thriving. I'll do some clean changes and keep an eye on things.I agree with the advice @Sharkbait19 is giving you. I remain concerned about ammonia. A 25% water change with freshly mixed saltwater will not be enough if you are at toxic levels. I would not move water from your display tank at this point unless you know without a doubt that water is safe. Bacteria in a Bottle products take time to work. You cannot depend on them if your water is already toxic. My experience is about 4 days minimum. Of course, if you are changing water, you are also removing the bacteria and copper in the water column. Nitrifying bacteria adheres to the surfaces in the tank and grows in density, but that takes time.
Salifert or hanna or red sea are more reliable and easier to use than API. I personally do not like the Seachem ammonia test kit either.
Hang in there.
Also, should I be purchasing more bacteria in a bottle to add? Which is best??I agree with the advice @Sharkbait19 is giving you. I remain concerned about ammonia. A 25% water change with freshly mixed saltwater will not be enough if you are at toxic levels. I would not move water from your display tank at this point unless you know without a doubt that water is safe. Bacteria in a Bottle products take time to work. You cannot depend on them if your water is already toxic. My experience is about 4 days minimum. Of course, if you are changing water, you are also removing the bacteria and copper in the water column. Nitrifying bacteria adheres to the surfaces in the tank and grows in density, but that takes time.
Salifert or hanna or red sea are more reliable and easier to use than API. I personally do not like the Seachem ammonia test kit either.
Hang in there.
It’s less about dt params and more about there still being a disease load in the tank.What in my DT is great. Everything in there is healthy and thriving. I'll do some clean changes and keep an eye on things.