Brew12

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It gets confusing with vars and multiphase and
Nah.. its easy!

Think of riding a bike....
Watts is real power.. the energy you spend pedaling to move forward.
Vars is reactive power... the energy that you expend wobbling side to side to keep your balance. It doesn't do you any good, but you can't ride a bike without it!
 
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SashimiTurtle

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Nah.. its easy!

Think of riding a bike....
Watts is real power.. the energy you spend pedaling to move forward.
Vars is reactive power... the energy that you expend wobbling side to side to keep your balance. It doesn't do you any good, but you can't ride a bike without it!

Someone tried explaining it like a draft beer. Watts is the beer and vars is the head... or something like that... didn't make sense the way they were explaining it. Watts I can understand. It's volts and amps, potential and current... kinda like the pressure and flow of your return pump combine to give GPM. I guess vars is head pressure of your return plumbing? @Brew12 did I just explain vars to myself using a reef tank?

We have megawatts here, 240-380MW out of each unit. 760ish MW at full load. 22.5KV out of the generators, stepped up to 230KV in the main transformers.
 

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Someone tried explaining it like a draft beer. Watts is the beer and vars is the head... or something like that... didn't make sense the way they were explaining it. Watts I can understand. It's volts and amps, potential and current... kinda like the pressure and flow of your return pump combine to give GPM. I guess vars is head pressure of your return plumbing? @Brew12 did I just explain vars to myself using a reef tank?

We have megawatts here, 240-380MW out of each unit. 760ish MW at full load. 22.5KV out of the generators, stepped up to 230KV in the main transformers.
Um... you didn't, but that is ok. And I really dislike the beer analogy but I see it all the time.

Head pressure is actually like voltage where amps is water flow. That is a good reef tank analogy.

We peak out at 310MVA for a 1/2 hour demand with a 5 minute peak just over 400MVA. We receive power at 500kV, distribute it at 35kV and once it gets down to the 4160V/480V level it is no longer my responsibility.
 
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Um... you didn't, but that is ok. And I really dislike the beer analogy but I see it all the time.

Head pressure is actually like voltage where amps is water flow. That is a good reef tank analogy.

We peak out at 310MVA for a 1/2 hour demand with a 5 minute peak just over 400MVA. We receive power at 500kV, distribute it at 35kV and once it gets down to the 4160V/480V level it is no longer my responsibility.

Guess I'll never fathom vars... hahaha

Translate MVA into MW please? 500KV, what's the clearance distance on that? I think our 230KV lines are 20'??

Yea, 4160/480/277/120V... I get to rack those breakers in and out... I think you were here for the 4160V arc flash discussion and the 40cal/cm2 gear I have to wear? It used to be 100cal/cm2 until they installed new relays.
 

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Guess I'll never fathom vars... hahaha

Translate MVA into MW please? 500KV, what's the clearance distance on that? I think our 230KV lines are 20'??

Yea, 4160/480/277/120V... I get to rack those breakers in and out... I think you were here for the 4160V arc flash discussion and the 40cal/cm2 gear I have to wear? It used to be 100cal/cm2 until they installed new relays.
MVA is Mega Volt Amps. It is what we call Apparent Power. MVA=V*A where as MW is MegaWatts for real power. MW=V*A*power factor


In its most simple form, Vars is the energy used to create magnetic fields in capacitors and inductors and is released when those magnetic fields collapse. These fields are created and collapsed every 1/2 cycle.
 
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I was wondering if the acrylic sump can absorb metals or toxins.
Acrylic itself won't. It's possible something else in the tank is. Rocks and sand both can and then will slowly leach them out over time.
 
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@AlgaeBarn order came in. Everything looks great!

20180307_190750.jpg


Since I got all that chaeto from a local, I'm gonna stuff this stuff in the media basket over in the 14g, once I get a light that is... for now, it's in the 10g QT tank. It's a differen't kind of chaeto than what I have. A lot finer strands and it's a lighter color. It's almost like green hair, lol you thought i was gonna say GHA. No this isn't slimy. This is what they call a golf ball. I'm not sure algae barn has ever been golfing. This is WAY more than a golf ball. Heck yea guys!

20180307_191903.jpg


Marine Pure, they are the spheres. Much easier to add to an overflow than a brick. I already had a few in my tank, left over from packing the middle chamber in the 14g. Dunked them in some fresh RODI and dropped them in. I got some minor dust in the tank even after rinsing, but it'll clear soon. Nothing to worry about. So after adding them to the overflow, I decided I wanted to remove the paint I put on that side, so I could see the spheres. Here's what half a gallon box plus a few looks like. I may just add another half gallon box to that down the road.

20180307_193746.jpg


Pods, and nano brine. The pods I ordered, the nano brine was a bonus. Woo hoo freebies! So, do I go ahead and add them to the Deep Blue, with my water problems I've been having, or do I put them in the QT tank and get one of those pod hotels @sfin52 showed me and transfer them later? (Hint, there are volunteer pods growing in the QT already.) Also, will nano brine reproduce in tank? Will they keep repopulating like pods?
 
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Acrylic itself won't. It's possible something else in the tank is. Rocks and sand both can and then will slowly leach them out over time.


My sand is an inert black silica, not silicate(diatoms food). It was explained to me these are different substances. Basically, its a super fine black glass, thats why its shiny.... when its clean. The rocks have been completely changed out since starting up also, altho some metal may remain in the system from the old rocks. I've only done one or two water changes since changing them out.

We'll get to the bottom of this, and grow the biggest SPS colonies anyone has ever shoe horned in a 35g cube. Just wait and see. I'm waaaayyy to hard headed to give up.
 
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Some species of pods will consume dino forgot which ones

This is what we got... Tigger(T, I, double guh, er) Tybee island(cool beach in Savannah, GA), and apocalypse cyclops... man those last ones sound mean.

20180307_201147.jpg


I think I'm gonna dunk um in with the marine pure. I dont know if the metals will effect them any, but we're gonna try it. I already dosed a little bit of phyto. Not that I need it, wait until you see the pictures I have of the glass.
 

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This is what we got... Tigger(T, I, double guh, er) Tybee island(cool beach in Savannah, GA), and apocalypse cyclops... man those last ones sound mean.

View attachment 693107

I think I'm gonna dunk um in with the marine pure. I dont know if the metals will effect them any, but we're gonna try it. I already dosed a little bit of phyto. Not that I need it, wait until you see the pictures I have of the glass.
That is what I used to boost the population when I upgraded tanks.
 
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So Turtle, how does the tank look?

I knew you were going to ask. It's not bad, actually.

20180307_202754.jpg


Other than the green film on every pane of glass, there's not much algae in the tank.

20180307_191155.jpg


I have a few corals left that seem to be doing ok. The color sucks on the SPS, but it's alive. I wonder why the forest fire lost its green color, but keeps the orange...

20180307_202804.jpg
20180307_202817.jpg
20180307_191020.jpg
20180307_202811.jpg


We pulled the skimmer apart tonight and inspected the motor. No corrosion there. The power heads I'll do another night.

We're going to order new DI resin and that polyfiber polyfilter poly want a cracker... whats that stuff called again?... tomorrow night, get a brute, and mix up 40 gallons of fresh salt water next week. My biggest bucket right now is 5 gallons, that's not very big. We're going to shoot for as large a water change as possible. Not 100%, I'll leave a few inches in the tank and leave the Marine Pure submerged. My tank hovers right at where the Red Sea blue bucket mixes(probably because I have no demand and I use Red Sea blue bucket)...

Reef Dreams in 10 days... maybe a stylo, a monti cap, some acans? I'll probably stick them in the frag tank. It seems to be doing well.
 
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distribute it at 35kV and once it gets down to the 4160V/480V level it is no longer my responsibility.
Energy for........the Bottom Feeders......:)
I was on alge barns site yesterday, I have been waiting for the Red macro stuff to become avail. I want to grow it for my fish and phos reduction,
On the Marine Pur I did the same thing in my overflow 1.5 gal when i set-up, I also seeded it with live bacteria, never seen an Ammonia spike and I dumped 6 chromis in after a week or 2 of set up.
 
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Energy for........the Bottom Feeders......:)
I was on alge barns site yesterday, I have been waiting for the Red macro stuff to become avail. I want to grow it for my fish and phos reduction,
On the Marine Pur I did the same thing in my overflow 1.5 gal when i set-up, I also seeded it with live bacteria, never seen an Ammonia spike and I dumped 6 chromis in after a week or 2 of set up.

I love the marine pure, so much surface area... get the spheres, fill a bucket with RODI, drop them in slowly and I bet a couple of them float for a second and a half until all the air bubbles out of them. I've never seen dry live rock float.

If you want a variety of red macros, check out gulf coast ecosystems. Website is www.live-plants.com. They have great macros available at different times. I think some of it is seasonal so you may still have to wait, but I've never seen a better selection of macros for setting up a display fuge or for just nutrient reduction.

A little tip, the softer and squishier the red macro, the more the fish go crazy over it.
 
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So, I got on the interwebs last night and found a mixed bed DI resin on Amazon prime. It was a 2.5 lb bag, enough for 2 canisters and a little left over, for $25 shipped via prime two day. It'll be here friday, so I can make up water on Saturday and get this tank on track.
 
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You may have some options other than polyfilters. They tend to be pricey and are often out of stock.
Something like this
http://www.kordon.com/kordon/products/water-conditioner/rid-metals#purposes-benefits!
or
even this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5VW...t=&hvlocphy=9012649&hvtargid=pla-375694969397

The nice thing about the Cuprisorb is that it is rechargeable. You only have to buy it once.

Nice, I added both of those to my Amazon list.

I'm going to pull the rest of my pumps apart over the next few days, but I'm really leaning towards my source water as being the problem. I was looking at my DI resin last night and the color has changed almost completely on both cartriges. Even though my TDS meter is still showing 0ppm, it's probably letting all kinds of nasty past it from the 40 year old copper pipes under my house, and whatever metals are already in there from the water company.
 

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%

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