SBB - Pre Black Friday- 900 WYSWYG Corals!

[SinkyShippy]

What’s the dosage for a KCL dip

 

[stoney7713]

from the link you sent me 3.3 ml per 70 gal. Am I wrong?

Dissolve one 500mg pill in 50ml and yes that's correct for .125mg/L

 

[Kasrift]

What would be the best cuc for @sadrobotz . i personally don't like emerald crabs because they've picked on my corals before. I love trochus and astrea and hermit. What about Nassarius

I love ox tongue nerites. Also my money cowrie spawned, their eggs are super weird, purple and huge.

My top three are:
Oxtongue nerites (scrape things super clean)
Money cowrie (also known as goldring cowrie, one of the only reef safe cowrie and can eat complex macro algae)
Lightning dove snail (small, so not super effective, but since they are small they get into the nooks and crannies best, and they bear live young and self replicate in the tank)

Trochus snails are a staple, and one large moving golf ball like a turbo snail.

Been debating a pitho crab for awhile for bubble algae. For hermits, I've found the tiny Scarlets are really nice.

 

[AKL1950]

@SinkyShippy 2 TBSP per gallon of saltwater.

 

[Kasrift]

If my phosphate was that high I would want to bring it down fast. Less detrimental than having phosphate at those concentrations. Also with most reactors you can control the flow, and reduce the phosphate slowly if you desire

That's true. If it is three, that's a large water change for sure. I'd test again since that seems like a read error. I don't even know test kits that go as high as 3.

 

[Thuan]

I love ox tongue nerites. Also my money cowrie spawned, their eggs are super weird, purple and huge.

My top three are:
Oxtongue nerites (scrape things super clean)
Money cowrie (also known as holding cowrie, one of the only reef safe cowrie and can eat complex macro algae)
Lightning dove snail (small, so not super effective, but since they are small they get into the nooks and crannies best, and they bear live young and self replicate in the tank)

Trochus snails are a staple, and one large moving golf ball like a turbo snail.

Been debating a pitho crab for awhile for bubble algae. For hermits, I've found the tiny Scarlets are really nice.

For a moment. I thought you saidyou like eating ox tongue. Then I said to myself. What the heck

 

[stoney7713]

I love ox tongue nerites. Also my money cowrie spawned, their eggs are super weird, purple and huge.

My top three are:
Oxtongue nerites (scrape things super clean)
Money cowrie (also known as holding cowrie, one of the only reef safe cowrie and can eat complex macro algae)
Lightning dove snail (small, so not super effective, but since they are small they get into the nooks and crannies best, and they bear live young and self replicate in the tank)

Trochus snails are a staple, and one large moving golf ball like a turbo snail.

Been debating a pitho crab for awhile for bubble algae. For hermits, I've found the tiny Scarlets are really nice.

Oh I forgot about the nerites, they have done well in my tank.

 

[Thuan]

Dissolve one 500mg pill in 50ml and yes that's correct for .125mg/L

Recipe calls for repeat every 2 days for 3 doses.

 

[stoney7713]

Recipe calls for repeat every 2 days for 3 doses.

For BJD treatment yes. It's a very light treatment.

If that doesn't help doubling that amount should not hurt your tank. At Reefbuilders he used twice that every other day for 10 days. When he had necrosis pop back up again 3 months later he used 10x the amount your using. At the time of the article he was 6 months free from STN.

 

[stoney7713]

Of course he doesn't recommend following what he done.

But like I also said, some nem keepers have used that high or higher doses in their displays.

I also don't recommend it, I would only do it if there is no other way and I was willing to take a chance I'm losing other livestock. None of them report a losses but there's always that chance.

 

[Thuan]

Of course he doesn't recommend following what he done.

But like I also said, some nem keepers have used that high or higher doses in their displays.

I also don't recommend it, I would only do it if there is no other way and I was willing to take a chance I'm losing other livestock. None of them report a losses but there's always that chance.

I'm starting slow and see how it respond. This is my 1st time dosing any meds

 

[stoney7713]

I'm starting slow and see how it respond. This is my 1st time dosing any meds

I agree with that strategy.

 

[Kyan]

Hi Everyone, anyone has a picture of Sbb blood orange?

 

[Kasrift]

@sadrobotz

To help with the phosphates being so high, I'd do several things at once.

1. Retest to remove any incorrect test errors. Maybe have another local test or LFS in case your test reagents are expired or wrong.
2. Water change. This will have the most immediate affect for dropping phosphates. On this note, I'd really look into a salt with bacteria included. I think a lot of people in the group are sleeping on this. I get why people buy the cheaper salts, but I've always used salts with bacteria like the Tropic Marin (which I've read is like carbon dosing) or this one I'm trying a small bucket of right now from AquaForest. Like I mentioned, I'm thinking of going back to the Tropic Marin, that one kept my small tank at almost zeros for nutrients.
3. Daily dose Brightwell Microbactor Clean. This works really well. I know we've been talking as a group about Razor and some other products, but Clean is the best bacteria add to reduce the bad algae, but I also found it reduces phos a fair amount. Additionally, you could add daily Microbaactor 7 to increase the ability to process nutrients.
4. You mentioned you have a red light, trying a macro algae could be good. I haven't done this at all, but you could look into a macro algae for the tank as well, some are very pretty. I'm sure tangs would eat a lot, but there are multiple types like blue hynea which is semi calcium structured I think, so that could eliminate tangs eating it.
5. Add corals that consume micro nutrients. This is just theory, but I think things like gorgonians or even gonis filter feed enough with their small mouths and could reduce nutrients. Gorgonians are cheap and easy and @Thuan has some she has shared with the group. Similarly, I added two porcelain crabs to my tank since they are filter feeders. I think the end goal should be finding a micro biome that simulates nature the best vs just collecting colorful things. I love random creatures and inverts. I have multiple clams (mostly hitchhikers) and one crocea and I always believe they do a good job filtering the water as well, even if it is just a mental bias.
6. Lastly I'd do chemical things. GFO works well, I'd be afraid of stripping the water of nutrients too fast. As mentioned Tropic Marin ElimiNP works for me well, but you mentioned that lanthanum chloride is detrimental to tangs, I don't have tangs so I have no experience, but this is in a lot of liquid phosphate removers. I think it is part of the ElimiNP as well, so if that is a concern, I'd skip it. I've used Seachem Phosguard and it works slower than GFO. I know the concern is aluminum leeching, but I've never had that issue on my ICPs and if you do the literature reading, it looks like aluminum leeching is due to Seachem matrix, which is a bio media. Further reading into the issue is that Seachem matrix was supposedly just pumice stone, but it might not be pure pumice and that leads to the leeching of other metals.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to help out. I think that is the best part of our little SBB reefing group.

 

[Thuan]

@sadrobotz

To help with the phosphates being so high, I'd do several things at once.

1. Retest to remove any incorrect test errors. Maybe have another local test or LFS in case your test reagents are expired or wrong.
2. Water change. This will have the most immediate affect for dropping phosphates. On this note, I'd really look into a salt with bacteria included. I think a lot of people in the group are sleeping on this. I get why people buy the cheaper salts, but I've always used salts with bacteria like the Tropic Marin (which I've read is like carbon dosing) or this one I'm trying a small bucket of right now from AquaForest. Like I mentioned, I'm thinking of going back to the Tropic Marin, that one kept my small tank at almost zeros for nutrients.
3. Daily dose Brightwell Microbactor Clean. This works really well. I know we've been talking as a group about Razor and some other products, but Clean is the best bacteria add to reduce the bad algae, but I also found it reduces phos a fair amount. Additionally, you could add daily Microbaactor 7 to increase the ability to process nutrients.
4. You mentioned you have a red light, trying a macro algae could be good. I haven't done this at all, but you could look into a macro algae for the tank as well, some are very pretty. I'm sure tangs would eat a lot, but there are multiple types like blue hynea which is semi calcium structured I think, so that could eliminate tangs eating it.
5. Add corals that consume micro nutrients. This is just theory, but I think things like gorgonians or even gonis filter feed enough with their small mouths and could reduce nutrients. Gorgonians are cheap and easy and @Thuan has some she has shared with the group. Similarly, I added two porcelain crabs to my tank since they are filter feeders. I think the end goal should be finding a micro biome that simulates nature the best vs just collecting colorful things. I love random creatures and inverts. I have multiple clams (mostly hitchhikers) and one crocea and I always believe they do a good job filtering the water as well, even if it is just a mental bias.
6. Lastly I'd do chemical things. GFO works well, I'd be afraid of stripping the water of nutrients too fast. As mentioned Tropic Marin ElimiNP works for me well, but you mentioned that lanthanum chloride is detrimental to tangs, I don't have tangs so I have no experience, but this is in a lot of liquid phosphate removers. I think it is part of the ElimiNP as well, so if that is a concern, I'd skip it. I've used Seachem Phosguard and it works slower than GFO. I know the concern is aluminum leeching, but I've never had that issue on my ICPs and if you do the literature reading, it looks like aluminum leeching is due to Seachem matrix, which is a bio media. Further reading into the issue is that Seachem matrix was supposedly just pumice stone, but it might not be pure pumice and that leads to the leeching of other metals.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to help out. I think that is the best part of our little SBB reefing group.

I have gorgonians galore and other softies

 

[Kasrift]

Hi Everyone, anyone has a picture of Sbb blood orange?

@billyocean is the most likely as he is the collector of all things SBB.

 

[andrewj1212]

So seapora makes these two 80 gallons, if I bought the one with the cross brace and cut the part that goes across the tank would that cause it to fail? If they make it rimless I would assume it would be fine but idk if they make it differently

 

[Baby_Shark]

Anacropora is supposed to be fine, digitata is fine, stylophora is fine....anything of the "acropora" genus, species, phylum....whatever it's called lol

Go it

Hi Everyone, anyone has a picture of Sbb blood orange?

there are a few people here with it, hopefully they post a photo.

 

[stoney7713]

So seapora makes these two 80 gallons, if I bought the one with the cross brace and cut the part that goes across the tank would that cause it to fail? If they make it rimless I would assume it would be fine but idk if they make it differently

Rimless are thicker glass. Rimmed tanks are engineered with thinner glass with the brace supporting it

 

[andrewj1212]

Rimless are thicker glass. Rimmed tanks are engineered with thinner glass with the brace supporting it

100% that’s what I was missing. Thanks