reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

bishoptf

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Is it possible to setup the ATO section of reef-pi to require two (or more) float switches to be triggered (reading low water) level before turning on a pump? Can this be done in a macro possibly? Or is wiring them in series the only way?

I have three float switches in my main ATO circuit, all float switches are wired in series. I have 2 in the sump for water level, primary and backup and one basically upside down in the ATO container for low water cut-off. I have an additional ATO circuit in the ATO container that lights an LED to notify me that the container is getting low on water. You can see some pictures in my build thread...

:)
 

RIckP

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OK. I haven't played with the dosing function at all so it was just a guess. But if you just controlled a dosing pump like a piece of equipment it would work. But then you lose the additional dosing functionality. I might be speaking out of turn here, but what you describe sounds like a glitch not unlike the macros only running in reverse when triggered by a timer or macro. Just a guess though, but sounds solveable. Or maybe a "manual dose" feature needs to be introduced........ somehow.

It's easy to have ideas when you're not the one that actually has to make them work :) :) :)

I just started using Reef-pi with Leviathan and i can’t get the dosing pumps to work on a timer. They run fine in calaibration mode but they won’t turn turn on when I set any of the Month, Day, Week, hr, min, sec....I have the P1FWD on. When I set all the values to * under dosing UI and turn on the P1FWD under Equipment it runs perfect...It’s when I put in any time value it does not run at specified time.
 

BenB

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I just started using Reef-pi with Leviathan and i can’t get the dosing pumps to work on a timer. They run fine in calaibration mode but they won’t turn turn on when I set any of the Month, Day, Week, hr, min, sec....I have the P1FWD on. When I set all the values to * under dosing UI and turn on the P1FWD under Equipment it runs perfect...It’s when I put in any time value it does not run at specified time.
Can you share the doser screen with your settings?
 

RIckP

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Can you share the doser screen with your settings?
FA1819F4-726A-49BB-AA79-F5BA92D4F073.png
 

NeonRabbit221B

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So I noticed this

"Solution to the 85 °C-Problem

There is a simple, undocumented, way to discriminate between the power-up 85 °C-reading and a genuie temperature reading of 85 °C in DS18B20 of Family A [5]: <byte 6> of the scratchpad register. If it is 0x0c, then the 85 °C-reading is a power-up reading, otherwise it is a true temperature measurement."

This is the only thing that bugs me with the temp probes. Ocassionally ill get an 85c and it will alert me that the tank is running hot. Is there anyway to stop this 85c registering?
Well if i understood that link correctly then it is doubtfoul whether pretty much anyone at all here even has family A sensors so i don't know how helpful that byte is going to be, especially for a standard solution
I fought this issue for months. I highly recommend just buying quality sensors. Sparkfun is by far the best and my issues went away immediately after tossing the cheap ones
 

Mike Kearns

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I just started using Reef-pi with Leviathan and i can’t get the dosing pumps to work on a timer. They run fine in calaibration mode but they won’t turn turn on when I set any of the Month, Day, Week, hr, min, sec....I have the P1FWD on. When I set all the values to * under dosing UI and turn on the P1FWD under Equipment it runs perfect...It’s when I put in any time value it does not run at specified time.

After you set up the pump did you restart reef-pi? I was having the same issue when I first set it up, but after a restart the timer started working.
 

Zippyfear

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I don't know if this has been recommended yet, and have been swamped the last few months, so haven't been following the threads.. but..

Can we add the ability for a macro step to be an email alert that the macro has completed.. I run a 2.5 hour water change macro.. and it's nice to be alerted at the end that it completed.. and maybe even once for the start.. I would like to add those in as steps. because I forget to restart it if I want to change more/check levels and new water available.
 

BenB

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Yes, same for both...Calibration and under UI.
The name is Alk (1), take the space out and retry first: Alk(1).
The settings look fine! In the guide after the creation of the doser, the doser is in disabled state, then first calibrated then enable. Maybe it is the correct order, so delete your doser and just start again.
 
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bishoptf

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Dumb question, one of my units is the protoboard wired up, temp, lights, DJ power strip. I would like to add ATO and just want to use float switches vs the optical sensor that is in the write up guide. My newer build uses a @Michael Lane hat so its easy peasy. I think with the float switches I can just wire it up to a GPIO and wire it up, does there need to be any resistor for the circuit?

Thanks :)
 
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Ranjib

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Dumb question, one of my units is the protoboard wired up, temp, lights, DJ power strip. I would like to add ATO and just want to use float switches vs the optical sensor that is in the write up guide. My newer build uses a @Michael Lane hat so its easy peasy. I think with the float switches I can just wire it up to a GPIO and wire it up, does there need to be any resistor for the circuit?

Thanks :)
It should work. It’s like driving without a seat belt, it’s recommended to put a resistor for safety .
 
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Ranjib

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I don't know if this has been recommended yet, and have been swamped the last few months, so haven't been following the threads.. but..

Can we add the ability for a macro step to be an email alert that the macro has completed.. I run a 2.5 hour water change macro.. and it's nice to be alerted at the end that it completed.. and maybe even once for the start.. I would like to add those in as steps. because I forget to restart it if I want to change more/check levels and new water available.
I like that :). We have reminder as timer target, but not inside macro. Let me think through..
 
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Ranjib

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It should work. It’s like driving without a seat belt, it’s recommended to put a resistor for safety .
I take that back. I didnt notice you mentioned Michael's board. I think he added pull up resistors. Is it marked as just GPIO or ato ?
 

Michael Lane

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Dumb question, one of my units is the protoboard wired up, temp, lights, DJ power strip. I would like to add ATO and just want to use float switches vs the optical sensor that is in the write up guide. My newer build uses a @Michael Lane hat so its easy peasy. I think with the float switches I can just wire it up to a GPIO and wire it up, does there need to be any resistor for the circuit?

Thanks :)
I would recommend using a current limit resistor. I use 220 ohms, but the value isn't critical. The other end of float should be connected to 3.3v since the internal pull down is enabled by default (assuming GPIO 9 or higher).
 

jacobc1199

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Hello all,
I've recently been working on my own Reef-pi project and stumbled into an issue. My first try of hooking things up I shorted my pi zero by accident :( but luckily I had a really old pi (Model B) lying around to keep playing with and hooked it up right this time. I switched the SD card containing my version of reefpi (3.0) with all my outlets and such already configured into the "new" pi. When I got into my Reefpi interface and tried to test my outlets, it said: "error: Failed to update. Error: Can't update 11 - can't get output pin." I got this error when trying to test any of the outlets and figured it must have been an issue with the configuration of the outlets since the GPIO of the piB is different of the newer pi's. When I went to connectors under configuration, it gave me the error, "reef-pi cannot read analog input of null." My best guess is that I have one of the channels set to pin 13 but with the old pi it actually does not have a pin 13. Any thoughts on how to fix this? I realize the raspberry pi B is a bit outdated these days but I was hoping I would be able to use to do some testing anyways.
 

bishoptf

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I would recommend using a current limit resistor. I use 220 ohms, but the value isn't critical. The other end of float should be connected to 3.3v since the internal pull down is enabled by default (assuming GPIO 9 or higher).

Thanks I was looking for what size to use...I am adding a QT coral tank and want to add ATO to the existing setup that is feeding my freshwater setup, do I just add the resistor inline? I will need to go and search and see if I can figure it out but I assume it will be similar to the way the temp probes are wired...but need to verify.

:)
 
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Ranjib

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Hello all,
I've recently been working on my own Reef-pi project and stumbled into an issue. My first try of hooking things up I shorted my pi zero by accident :( but luckily I had a really old pi (Model B) lying around to keep playing with and hooked it up right this time. I switched the SD card containing my version of reefpi (3.0) with all my outlets and such already configured into the "new" pi. When I got into my Reefpi interface and tried to test my outlets, it said: "error: Failed to update. Error: Can't update 11 - can't get output pin." I got this error when trying to test any of the outlets and figured it must have been an issue with the configuration of the outlets since the GPIO of the piB is different of the newer pi's. When I went to connectors under configuration, it gave me the error, "reef-pi cannot read analog input of null." My best guess is that I have one of the channels set to pin 13 but with the old pi it actually does not have a pin 13. Any thoughts on how to fix this? I realize the raspberry pi B is a bit outdated these days but I was hoping I would be able to use to do some testing anyways.
Is this a 26 pin pi ? If so, you have to use a different gpio PIN number. I have not tested it, but start with some google ...and update your configuration
 
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