reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

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Ranjib

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Ranjib

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Today I had a strange problem, maybe a quif fix problem. I have a quite old iPad with iOS 9.3.6 which works fine. When I try to reach the reef-pi dashboard with my local raspberry pi address it shows a white page with the reef-pi label at the top of the page (in the name of the tab) on all of my other device works fine. Do you know what could it be? It's an iPad related problem for sure, maybe someone has already encountered this problem..
Thanks all!
Its for sure browser related. reef-pi uses react , a javascript based framework for its entire UI. Its very modern and powerful (entire Facebook webapp and mobile app powered by this, along side many other modern tech offerings). Being modern also means it has series gaps when it runs on older/uncommon browser. I'd suggest using chrome if possible.
 
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I think there was someone on here with a similar issue, but it was a while ago. Not sure if there was a fix.

I don't have Apple devices, but it may be an outdated browser issue.
Its not an apple issue per say. I have an 2018 ipad that works just fine. My macbook pro and iphone (8 and 11 pro) also works fine. I suspect its older device and more specifically older browser running on those devices that does not process the javascript/react frontend well.
 

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Its the Digital Loggers web power switch: https://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.html . Its one of the beefiest, made in USA power strip :) . As of now I think only I and @dmolavi are using this. Let us know how it goes if any of you give this a try

What are the benefits of using something like the Digital Loggers Pro Switch with Reef-Pi? Does it take the place of something like the American DJ relay?
 

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I need to extend the length of the cable for the DFRobot water level sensor for the ATO (and a second I will use to alert when the bucket is near empty). What is the best practice for doing that and staying reasonably water safe and not mess up the sensor? Would I be best getting some 4 wire cable and just splicing that in on the sensor side?
 

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If you happen to find a way please tag me lol. I am trying to jailbreak mine right now with not much success so far.
Even with Chrome it doesn't work.. don't know what to do... One thing we could do is use Grafana only to view data...
 

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I need to extend the length of the cable for the DFRobot water level sensor for the ATO (and a second I will use to alert when the bucket is near empty). What is the best practice for doing that and staying reasonably water safe and not mess up the sensor? Would I be best getting some 4 wire cable and just splicing that in on the sensor side?

Yep, just splice it near the dry end & you shouldn't have to worry at all. Stick a bit of heatshrink on & that should be enough to protect against any errant droplets.
 
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Ranjib

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@Ranjib if I want to use a camera, only the raspberry pi camera will worK? Or can I use an USB webcam too? Thank you!
Our current camera module is only integrated with raspberry pi camera. We might revisit that in future as comprehensive overhaul of the camera integration, but its not our priority right now since its easily doable by other means, outside reef-pi.
 

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Theres no software limit from reef-pi side. You are limited by rpi GPIO or your circuit. Since 3.0 we also support smart plugs and powerstrip, which is not limited by circuit. I am pretty sure if we keep on adding new drivers at some point the system will bog down, but i have not tested it that far. I have used three hs300 strips at the same time at max , which is 18 outlets. I think it will be just fine with dozens of such power strips.

OK thats great. So when you reach the limit of one raspberry pi can you just add more of them onto the same reef pi?

I'm from the UK so unaware of these power strips as that would of saved alot of time and effort probably haha

Can you control solenoids also and is there a guide to this?

Has salinity been thought out yet or is this still unnecessary?
 

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Thank you very much! I was also thinking about the jailbreak, but I don't know if that can fix.. I was able to try Firefox but I had the same issue... We have to find a way to install iOS10 :D

I was having a similar issue with mine what are you typing in to connect I had to type the IP address not the name of the pie and also no HTTP either just the IP only hopefully this helps you
 
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Ranjib

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I have not tried this, if it works like normal digital input then it should fine. Otherwise we have to do some software work
I just looked at the specs , I think it will work . Let us know if you test this
 

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What are the benefits of using something like the Digital Loggers Pro Switch with Reef-Pi? Does it take the place of something like the American DJ relay?

It's a "smart power switch" with a robust API and no reliance on any cloud services (so if the company goes under tomorrow, you can still use the remote functionality). I've been using one for several years and LOVE it. Well worth the money.
 

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Hello,
i would like to implement a contactless water sensor.
Do you think this model (DFRobot FIT0212 ) work with reefpi for the auto top off ?
Thanks


Your set and that sensor looks good but here's another option that works for anyone else looking for something similar. There's a few versions, the V at the end of model is what you want. They go through thick glass and you can take the cap off and adjust the sensitivity.


EDIT: Oops, almost forgot Pi is only 3.3v, the sensor I posted needs 5v and outputs 5v so could damage Pi pin.

Now I look at the other sensor it's 5v too so likely 5v comes out, make sure you check. If it does put out 5v you'll need to add a voltage divider which is 2 resistors, 4.7k and 9.1k.

voltage_divider.jpg
 
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elysics

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So that filedriver was a huge help, finally got the energenie powerbar running without trying to learn how to write a usb driver, just added a cronjob that translates the file outputs to calls to the control program every 10 seconds. Not perfect, but it works. So that's another viable european powerbar option now.

Now that the heater/cooler display in the dashboard actually does something for me, is there some api stuff or other hack to manually change the temperature scale to a range useful for celsius? A search through this thread has brought up a few people complaining about this, but no solution.
 

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Anyone able to shed some light on why I've had zero luck getting a temperature sensor to show up on this build?

1 wire is enabled

When I run ls in /sys/bus/w1/devices, I get the following output:
00-2e0000000000 00-4e0000000000 00-ce0000000000 w1_bus_master1

I unplugged the sensor, plugged in another & got this:

00-190000000000 00-690000000000 00-e90000000000 w1_bus_master1

Sometimes when I run ls, I only get the first 2 strings of numbers & the w1_bus_master1

I get the same ls output with or without the sensor plugged in. The numbers changing doesn't seem to follow any sort of pattern.

in the /sys/bus/wi/devices folder, I have 5 folders:

00-260000000000
00-660000000000
00-a60000000000
00-c60000000000
w1_bus_master1

I've eliminated as much complexity as possible. I'm going directly from the sensor to Pi pins (through a 4.7k resistor for data). Nothing else is plugged in.

Dev Mode is not enabled. No errors. I know at least one of the temperature sensors works, as I had it on my other build running just fine.

Checking the output at the pins, I've got 3.3V on the 3.3V pin, .245 Volts on GPIO 4, 0 volts on ground. Should I be seeing higher voltage on GPIO 4? Is that pin possibly dead?

I've been working on this for 3 days & I'm about to go insane. Anyone have some advice to keep me from going crazy?
 
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