OP
OP
Whoa !
Did you use the dev environment setup guide? https://reef-pi.github.io/general-guides/05_development/
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
Did you use the dev environment setup guide? https://reef-pi.github.io/general-guides/05_development/
No I didn't. It would have helped for sure. My biggest issues were using an old go version, setting proxy values for for curl and go, and then not executing the executable from the root directory.
Thank you for making the install guide. I was thinking of putting one together for you.
Thank you for making the install guide. I was thinking of putting one together for you.
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
http://fritzing.org/learning/tutorials/designing-pcb/
I'll be looking at this today
Meanwhile, can you please give me more details on how you think this will go? Do you have different boards that you have decided that you will use? Will those PCBs be single sided with only one layer? So how compact does this need to be? (I saw your pics on page 24) If you give me more details I can help name/sort the boards. I'm familiar with Protel and can also help you design the PCBs if you want help with that.
I love these housing you shared. I don't know if these are safe for 220v/110v electrical receptacles, and how easy it is to drill holes in these (for mounting connectors). I went with wood because it is readily available, I know how to fabricate it, and dart cheap. I would definitely prefer to use something salt water safe. Mine are clearly not suitable for use next to sump.
I am pondering about using one of these housing to build the power strip controller and doser (to be safe from fire/spark and water )
The plastic is safe for AC. The housing is like any household appliance and is non conductive. Depends what box you choose but some boxes have a lid that is held on with screws. Some screw into plastic and some screw into metal nuts embedded in the plastic. The lid has a rubber lip to seal it. [airtight] If you drill holes in it, obviously there's another point of entry so it won't be sealed at the hole but you can install cable strain relief [https://www.heyco.com/Strain_Relief_Bushings/] and silicone it. The plastic is drillable (and meant to be drilled) and won't (shouldn't) crack the side. Some have punch-outs for AC power connectors [http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/acpower.htm] So to answer your question, they are made for exactly this purpose. These boxes are cheap and really negate the necessity for time consuming wood fabrication. I think they are relatively cheap and maybe you should buy one and see if you like it.
Just my humble opinion but the finishing on the housing will be a lot more precise and cleaner than wood. I'd use them for a prototype with the goal of standardizing the build. For example focus on a standard set of PCBs (depending on what functionality is included). When you know exactly what the guts will look like you could get some stand offs [http://www.keyelco.com/category.cfm/Keyelco/Spacers-Standoffs/id/495] for the boards and crate a template that could be placed inside the box. I forgot who right now but someone was mentioning 3D printing a few days ago. We could get this template printed with the correct placement for the standoffs and then it could be inserted into the box. Then just screw in the standoffs to the template and screw the PCB's to the standoffs. Then the assembly goes into the box, nice and clean.
So basically what I'm getting at is it would be possible to crate a "kit" that pretty much anyone could assemble themselves (maybe even throw in a single use static wrist strap or something) Anyway, later on down the line, when you get the PCBs all sorted and you're completely satisfied with a working product we can try to find a way to put it in an aluminum housing so it's a viable product.
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
Hi Ranjib, I've PM'ed you here on R2R and requested access along with my e-mail. Have you seen the PM? I've also requested access on the Google Doc itself.
Sure that's fine. I'm on Github.
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
Checked it out... It has autorouting. It's all good. D/L'd and installed Fritzing (LOL figures it's German
)
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
Ranjib, you might also need this:
https://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.freecadweb.org/
OP
OP
I am using perma proto board for all things PCB. Here are the links for pi zero and pi 3:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3203
and
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2310
I wont mind to have a electrical safe ready made housing as part of standard build kit. Having a 3d design (stl or cad files) will allow those with wood or 3d printers, to build their own. Theres a dedicated thread around 3d printing here, we can always seek help there if need be.
Please go ahead and design the housing you think is good for. It will be easier if we resource the ancillary components from amazon (electrical sockets), as of now I have used these for power supply:
Power chord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005113L/
Socker (mounted on the housing): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
I am very much interested in building a kit. Lets keep discussing on this, what a basic unit should do? The set of functionality is most important and price point. We can derive the electronics and documentations from there..
OP
OP
Awesome. Reef-pi website is all codified, and in github. Let me add a readme on how to develop the website and I'
ll share the links after that,
OP
OP
@Rip Van Winkle here you go: https://github.com/reef-pi/website
This is the official website codes for reef-pi. I am using hugo, a static site generator to build and publish the webpages. It should be straight forward to clone/develop the webpages. Let me know if you have any questions or if the readme is not clear
This is the official website codes for reef-pi. I am using hugo, a static site generator to build and publish the webpages. It should be straight forward to clone/develop the webpages. Let me know if you have any questions or if the readme is not clear
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
I didn't know you needed help with the site. I use Dreamweaver (+PS) for websites. I'm not a web designer. It's just a side interest for me but sure, however I can help.
Opened a GIThub account and am looking at that right now.
Understood. Looking at what you have done so far and seeing what I can add. Will message you on here when ready.
OP
OP
The website is primarily meant for documentation & guides. All the content are written in plain text file (markdown format) , you won't need any web development skill to contribute.
Here is a simple tutorial on markdown : https://guides.github.com/features/mastering-markdown/
And here is a tutorial on pull request :https://help.github.com/articles/creating-a-pull-request/
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
Ranjib, do you still intend to do this? Personally, I think it's a good idea but will follow whatever you decide.
OP
OP
Which one?
USB based connections? - Not yet
or
Controlling reef-pi from another ? - Want to do, but no progress yet. Once doser & ATO housing is built and tested (working on temperature controller testing now). I like the stability/reliability of physical connection though :0/, wifi based things will make it easy to run them independently .
Thinking out loud here, would anyone want to prefer physically connect independent controllers? or just use an all-in-one controller instead? Given everything is DIY and opensource, it is possible to salvage an existing controller to build the next upgrade...
I just assembled a all in one controller's fritzing project. I think i got the write parts, the connections are not 100% right, but mostly ok. The breadboard view looks like horror movie
Schematic of a basic all in one reef-pi electronics, aimed for a pico tank. Supports following things:
1) On-demand and timer based control of 4 AC outlet/equipments
2) Temperature monitoring and control (switch on/off heater or chiller/cooler , dedicated two AC outlets)
3) Kessil control , i.e 10 v pwm, 2 channel (3.5 mm female jack)
4) 2 dosing pump controls (12 v, pwm, direction control)
5) 6 isolated 10v pwm controls (just put these so that those who have black box style leds can control them, or anything else, like additional dosing pump /etc)... not really specific, just using the extra available pwm outputs
This is the breadboard view (bare with my ignorance, this is my first attempt at doing anything serious with fritzing)
B) schematic view
3) PCB view
Next step will be publishing the fritzing file to reef-pi repo, and get it reviewed, fix the obvious issues etc.
BTW, today I learned that ds18b20 must be hooked to GPIO4, due to how w1 is implemented in raspberry pi kernel. Spent a good amount of time in bogus troubleshooting.. .
USB based connections? - Not yet
or
Controlling reef-pi from another ? - Want to do, but no progress yet. Once doser & ATO housing is built and tested (working on temperature controller testing now). I like the stability/reliability of physical connection though :0/, wifi based things will make it easy to run them independently .
Thinking out loud here, would anyone want to prefer physically connect independent controllers? or just use an all-in-one controller instead? Given everything is DIY and opensource, it is possible to salvage an existing controller to build the next upgrade...
I just assembled a all in one controller's fritzing project. I think i got the write parts, the connections are not 100% right, but mostly ok. The breadboard view looks like horror movie
Schematic of a basic all in one reef-pi electronics, aimed for a pico tank. Supports following things:
1) On-demand and timer based control of 4 AC outlet/equipments
2) Temperature monitoring and control (switch on/off heater or chiller/cooler , dedicated two AC outlets)
3) Kessil control , i.e 10 v pwm, 2 channel (3.5 mm female jack)
4) 2 dosing pump controls (12 v, pwm, direction control)
5) 6 isolated 10v pwm controls (just put these so that those who have black box style leds can control them, or anything else, like additional dosing pump /etc)... not really specific, just using the extra available pwm outputs
This is the breadboard view (bare with my ignorance, this is my first attempt at doing anything serious with fritzing)
B) schematic view
3) PCB view
Next step will be publishing the fritzing file to reef-pi repo, and get it reviewed, fix the obvious issues etc.
BTW, today I learned that ds18b20 must be hooked to GPIO4, due to how w1 is implemented in raspberry pi kernel. Spent a good amount of time in bogus troubleshooting..
.
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
Should have been clearer, not the USB option, I meant controlling one device from another as you mentioned below.
Alright. Glad to hear that.
MaccaPopEye
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Which one?
USB based connections? - Not yet
or
Controlling reef-pi from another ? - Want to do, but no progress yet. Once doser & ATO housing is built and tested (working on temperature controller testing now). I like the stability/reliability of physical connection though :0/, wifi based things will make it easy to run them independently .
Thinking out loud here, would anyone want to prefer physically connect independent controllers? or just use an all-in-one controller instead? Given everything is DIY and opensource, it is possible to salvage an existing controller to build the next upgrade...
I just assembled a all in one controller's fritzing project. I think i got the write parts, the connections are not 100% right, but mostly ok. The breadboard view looks like horror movie
Schematic of a basic all in one reef-pi electronics, aimed for a pico tank. Supports following things:
1) On-demand and timer based control of 4 AC outlet/equipments
2) Temperature monitoring and control (switch on/off heater or chiller/cooler , dedicated two AC outlets)
3) Kessil control , i.e 10 v pwm, 2 channel (3.5 mm female jack)
4) 2 dosing pump controls (12 v, pwm, direction control)
5) 6 isolated 10v pwm controls (just put these so that those who have black box style leds can control them, or anything else, like additional dosing pump /etc)... not really specific, just using the extra available pwm outputs
This is the breadboard view (bare with my ignorance, this is my first attempt at doing anything serious with fritzing)
B) schematic view
3) PCB view
Next step will be publishing the fritzing file to reef-pi repo, and get it reviewed, fix the obvious issues etc.
BTW, today I learned that ds18b20 must be hooked to GPIO4, due to how w1 is implemented in raspberry pi kernel. Spent a good amount of time in bogus troubleshooting..
Making great progress Ranjib
Personally I would prefer an all in one controller vs independent controllers for each function. I think the only positive to independent controllers is the redundancy if one fails, however I also think it adds to the cost (buying multiple Pi zeros vs 1x Pi 3), the complexity (getting them all to talk with no issues) and it would take up more space (having a housing for each mini controller).
If build instructions were broken down into each function then people could pick and choose the functions they want to add to begin with and then expand in the future. For example I am planning to add a space to the front of my controller specifically for 3 BNC plugs for future pH, salinity and ORP probes. I don't know how far into the future you plan to (if you plan to) look into pH etc. but I want the space ready when the time comes.
And I actually find the breadboard view a bit easier to read. Add in labels for each of the components and I could probably build straight off of that with my very minimal knowledge (although I will be building on a breadboard and not a PCB, is there any issues with just permanently mounting a breadboard inside the housing and not using a PCB?).
If I had the fritzing file and could drag it around and examine each connection piece by piece then even better
(and I think that is what you intend to release?)Keep up the Amazing work! September can't come soon enough for me to start my build
OP
OP
There were few more reasons other than just different failure domains for having independent controllers. Price, ability to use with existing controllers and location are three of them.pi zero based ATO would cost way less than a full blown all in one controller, and some one might just need that bit. Some one might not need light controller since some lights come with it (AI). Location can be a limitation as well,some one might prefer to keep power strip controller or dosing controller inside the stand , near sump while the rest of the automation with display / touchscreen outside, in an easy to access place.Making great progress Ranjib
Personally I would prefer an all in one controller vs independent controllers for each function. I think the only positive to independent controllers is the redundancy if one fails, however I also think it adds to the cost (buying multiple Pi zeros vs 1x Pi 3), the complexity (getting them all to talk with no issues) and it would take up more space (having a housing for each mini controller).
If build instructions were broken down into each function then people could pick and choose the functions they want to add to begin with and then expand in the future. For example I am planning to add a space to the front of my controller specifically for 3 BNC plugs for future pH, salinity and ORP probes. I don't know how far into the future you plan to (if you plan to) look into pH etc. but I want the space ready when the time comes.
And I actually find the breadboard view a bit easier to read. Add in labels for each of the components and I could probably build straight off of that with my very minimal knowledge (although I will be building on a breadboard and not a PCB, is there any issues with just permanently mounting a breadboard inside the housing and not using a PCB?).
If I had the fritzing file and could drag it around and examine each connection piece by piece then even better
Keep up the Amazing work! September can't come soon enough for me to start my build
Since I don't have a larger tank, its kinda hard for me to guess :-(. I personally need two all in one pico tankc ontrollers for my two pico reef tanks. I am still thinking what's the best route for my 29g biocube.
Using PCB will make the electronics more sturdy , easy to mount in housing. Breadboard are meant for easy to use and prototyping. You can use them if you are aware of the wiring, since the connections are not fixed, in case something loosen up, you have to diagnose and fix it. But I have seen plenty of things running for months on breadboard, since typical reef tank runs for years, I'd say start with breadboard and if you like what you built slowly convert it into PCB. We don't need industrial grade PCB, simple perf board or proto board with couple of ic headers would preserve the ease of breadboard while giving us all the benefits of a PCB (I..e we don't have to etch PCBs ) . if there are enough interest I can bulk order/manufacture these as part of a kit.
Rip Van Winkle
Active Member
I have to get going right now but I just wanted to make a quick post, here.
Just briefly without quoting Ranjib or MaccaPopEye, my 2 cents would be to make the entire thing modular. Why? Because we can. If people want an AIO then they can get the parts and instructions to make it the way they want. If others want to have multiple controllers they should also be able to do that. I think the flexibility to do that depends on Ranjib and the design of the PCBs that will be available. Housing is not an issue right now because people can either fabricate at home using wood or plastic or buy a project box and make it the size that they desire. The real functionality depends on the PCB's.
It would be possible to have professional grade boards in the Reef-Pi controllers
http://blog.fritzing.org/2017/02/21/fritzing-fab-now-powered-by-aisler/ I think you can see what I'm getting at, here.
And for the immediate future, I managed to find this link:
http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351
I think this is just for the initial first prototypes and eventually the boards will probably be double layered and surface mount. So, put the boards together and build it as you wish, type of thing.
Just briefly, I also wanted to bring up the idea that it might be possible to have a group buy -if enough people could agree on similar items.
I also went through the entire 25 pages of this post and created file with all of the hardware mentioned and also included links to the datasheets. I organized all of it into sections like mainboards/cards, IC's, Transistors, etc...
Basically anything and everything that was mentioned in this thread. I think with 25 pages to sift through, it would make it easier if it was all in one place. So I'll post that when I get back.
@Ranjib, You haven't used the autoroute feature in Fritzing. I wanted to help out with that.
I'll be back in about 7 or 8 hours and post here again more completely and with more clarity.
Just briefly without quoting Ranjib or MaccaPopEye, my 2 cents would be to make the entire thing modular. Why? Because we can. If people want an AIO then they can get the parts and instructions to make it the way they want. If others want to have multiple controllers they should also be able to do that. I think the flexibility to do that depends on Ranjib and the design of the PCBs that will be available. Housing is not an issue right now because people can either fabricate at home using wood or plastic or buy a project box and make it the size that they desire. The real functionality depends on the PCB's.
It would be possible to have professional grade boards in the Reef-Pi controllers
http://blog.fritzing.org/2017/02/21/fritzing-fab-now-powered-by-aisler/ I think you can see what I'm getting at, here.
And for the immediate future, I managed to find this link:
http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=351
I think this is just for the initial first prototypes and eventually the boards will probably be double layered and surface mount. So, put the boards together and build it as you wish, type of thing.
Just briefly, I also wanted to bring up the idea that it might be possible to have a group buy -if enough people could agree on similar items.
I also went through the entire 25 pages of this post and created file with all of the hardware mentioned and also included links to the datasheets. I organized all of it into sections like mainboards/cards, IC's, Transistors, etc...
Basically anything and everything that was mentioned in this thread. I think with 25 pages to sift through, it would make it easier if it was all in one place. So I'll post that when I get back.
@Ranjib, You haven't used the autoroute feature in Fritzing. I wanted to help out with that.
I'll be back in about 7 or 8 hours and post here again more completely and with more clarity.
OP
OP
I can assure you that reef-pi will always be modular. i.e.
- It wont have components that are depend upon other components (unless it has to, like a temperature controller will depend on temperature monitor)
- reef-pi core should not rely on any specific modules
- A functional module should be built from just reef-pi core (i.e. raspberry pi + the controller software)
I'll be up for group buy, as and when the schematics and pcb is settled. I think what we have right now is good and work, but the circuits probably needs some additional capacitors/resistors/diods to be full proof (i.e to be on par with current best practice )
OP
OP
I'll recommend going with solid state relays if possible, sainsmart is something I would recommend from my personal experience.
I have not really used a lot of float switch, and they really dont have that many complicated parts, so I'll go with any reputed vendor. I am personally testing the ATO code with dfrobot's optical sensor.
Amazon link for relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZW7MI6
Amazon link for water sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7SCY6N/
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