Radium metal halide bulbs will not be produced anymore!

[AquaLogic]

I really appreciate that. I've been running these ushios for the last 6 months and they just don't seem right to me. They also seem to get a lot hotter than the Hamiltons without the bang. Man I miss my Aqua Medics lol. Thanks again

I've used Ushio's in the past as well, and don't care for them. They didn't look great to me, and I seemed to have more algae issues.

 

[jackson6745]

So I hooked up a hydros controller to the tank and noticed that one of my Halimton M80 ballast's was running at 730 watts and 7amp. My other 2 M80 ballasts were running 330w and 3 amp which is what I would expect. I did verify the extra draw by swapping it on a different xp8 outlet + kill a watt meter and got same numbers. I swapped it out for a back up electronic ballast for now but it runs radiums terrible (dim and blue). What part of the ballast would be responsible for such a large draw? Can't just buy a new M80 these days so I have to repair what I've got. Thanks for any help.

 

[oreo54]

So I hooked up a hydros controller to the tank and noticed that one of my Halimton M80 ballast's was running at 730 watts and 7amp. My other 2 M80 ballasts were running 330w and 3 amp which is what I would expect. I did verify the extra draw by swapping it on a different xp8 outlet + kill a watt meter and got same numbers. I swapped it out for a back up electronic ballast for now but it runs radiums terrible (dim and blue). What part of the ballast would be responsible for such a large draw? Can't just buy a new M80 these days so I have to repair what I've got. Thanks for any help.

Is this the first time you used that ballast? Or first time you measured it?
As far as I know you could get something like that if the primary coil is a multi tap (for various voltages) and its wired to the wrong one.

Just a guess. The m80 transformer is a different design than most ballasts, IF I remember correctly.

 

[jackson6745]

Is this the first time you used that ballast? Or first time you measured it?
As far as I know you could get something like that if the primary coil is a multi tap (for various voltages) and its wired to the wrong one.

Just a guess. The m80 transformer is a different design than most ballasts, IF I remember correctly.

Been using this ballast for 6 months. It works perfectly. Par output is the same as other bulb and ballast combos. First time that I measured since I just hooked up the controller the other day.

 

[Reefering1]

So I hooked up a hydros controller to the tank and noticed that one of my Halimton M80 ballast's was running at 730 watts and 7amp. My other 2 M80 ballasts were running 330w and 3 amp which is what I would expect. I did verify the extra draw by swapping it on a different xp8 outlet + kill a watt meter and got same numbers. I swapped it out for a back up electronic ballast for now but it runs radiums terrible (dim and blue). What part of the ballast would be responsible for such a large draw? Can't just buy a new M80 these days so I have to repair what I've got. Thanks for any help.

Open the cover and look at the transformer, if it's melted/burnt it's bad. Other than that, the ignitor and capacitor should be easy/ cheap to find

 

[Reefering1]

@jackson6745
Im almost certain(90%) it's your capacitor. Attached is pic of the part numbers. Be warned, special care is required to discharge the capacitor before touching wires. It can(will) shock you even after ballast is unplugged. It should have a resistor between terminals that should discharge it but idk how long that takes- probably best to discharge it yourself and know you're safe. Google how to discharge a capacitor.

 

[jackson6745]

@jackson6745
Im almost certain(90%) it's your capacitor. Attached is pic of the part numbers. Be warned, special care is required to discharge the capacitor before touching wires. It can(will) shock you even after ballast is unplugged. It should have a resistor between terminals that should discharge it but idk how long that takes- probably best to discharge it yourself and know you're safe. Google how to discharge a capacitor.

Good to know that it can still zap you after being unplugged lol. Visually this is what I’m looking at. Can’t tell if anything looks off. I’ll try replacing the capacitor to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for the help!

 

[Reefering1]

Good to know that it can still zap you after being unplugged lol. Visually this is what I’m looking at. Can’t tell if anything looks off. I’ll try replacing the capacitor to see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for the help!

That transformer looks good to me!! Notice how the paper, that wraps the windings, is not burnt or melted. Capacitor should fix your problem

 

[jackson6745]

That transformer looks good to me!! Notice how the paper, that wraps the windings, is not burnt or melted. Capacitor should fix your problem

Any idea where to get this from? Can’t seem to find it anywhere on a Google search.

 

[Reefering1]

Any idea where to get this from? Can’t seem to find it anywhere on a Google search.

I'll look..

 

[Reefering1]

Any idea where to get this from? Can’t seem to find it anywhere on a Google search.

You're right, can't find that exact one.. This will work but i would buy a few. 70*C temp rating rather than 100*C, so it likely won't last 20 years like the original. I'm going to order a handful, but I'll wait until you do your order 1st. Lmk when you're done

 

[jackson6745]

You're right, can't find that exact one.. This will work but i would buy a few. 70*C temp rating rather than 100*C, so it likely won't last 20 years like the original. I'm going to order a handful, but I'll wait until you do your order 1st. Lmk when you're done

Thanks, I’ll get one now.

 

[Reefering1]

Thanks, I’ll get one now.

You should get a few...

 

[BeanAnimal]

It’s a 20mfd 300v oil cap, they are everywhere. Brand does not matter. No need to hoard them they are not rare.

 

[oreo54]

It’s a 20mfd 300v oil cap, they are everywhere. Brand does not matter. No need to hoard them they are not rare.

The orig was listed as 29nfd 280v..
Can you use a 250v one?
Since it's across the ac side id assume yes but I know it can be tricky.
If so wal mart has em .
Btw one in pic is marked York part no. so I'm assuming it's a HVAC cap. So prob not original either
Hmmm not sure about a plastic body in there though .

 

[Reefering1]

The orig was listed as 29nfd 280v..
Can you use a 250v one?
Since it's across the ac side id assume yes but I know it can be tricky.
If so wal mart has em .
Btw one in pic is marked York part no. so I'm assuming it's a HVAC cap. So prob not original either
Hmmm not sure about a plastic body in there though .

Idk, both his and all 5 of mine have the exact same york capacitor

 

[oreo54]

Idk, both his and all 5 of mine have the exact same york capacitor

Sticker in the case has different specs...

 

[Reefering1]

Sticker in the case has different specs...

But that's not what they come with. You can use a cap of higher voltage, not lower. Unless I'm mistaken.
Look at the caps in pics

 

[oreo54]

But that's not what they come with. You can use a cap of higher voltage, not lower. Unless I'm mistaken.
Look at the caps in pics

Well they put the specs in to be followed.
20 mfd 280v 10000AFC CAP.

Why its 300 not the listed 280?
Considering the probable age of these well who knows.
280v listed caps don't seem to be common.
Or 300v for that matter.
Yea general consensus is higher is better than lower.
In this case though you know 120v is max unless you switch the wires on the AC side to 277v. Now a 250v cap def shouldn't be put in.
Don't think this cap is that important anyways, being on the AC side. Think it's just for power factor correction..

 

[Reefering1]

Well they put the specs in to be followed.
20 mfd 280v 10000AFC CAP.

Why its 300 not the listed 280?
Considering the probable age of these well who knows.
280v listed caps don't seem to be common.
Or 300v for that matter.
Yea general consensus is higher is better than lower.
In this case though you know 120v is max unless you switch the wires on the AC side to 277v. Now a 250v cap def shouldn't be put in.
Don't think this cap is that important anyways, being on the AC side. Think it's just for power factor correction..

I hear you man.. Hamilton assembled the ballasts and went with the york 300v, on every one ive seen, that's all i know. I can open up a pfo and see whats in there tomorrow. and agree 300v doesn't seem to be available. As far as power factor, his ballast works but draws too much power- this is what led me to my recommendation of capacitor