Radium metal halide bulbs will not be produced anymore!

PaulErik

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To keep things running well and longer it’s always good practice to periodically check the capacitor. With a HX ballast the amp draw or actual power factor is easier to monitor using a Kill A Watt or some other monitor. With an HX ballast the input increases and power factor decreases overtime.

When I first set up a coral grow out system I ran into a lot of ballast capacitors degrading quick. Not sure if they were bad batches or they don’t make them like they used to. So now I keep spares on hand.
 

Reefering1

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To keep things running well and longer it’s always good practice to periodically check the capacitor. With a HX ballast the amp draw or actual power factor is easier to monitor using a Kill A Watt or some other monitor. With an HX ballast the input increases and power factor decreases overtime.

When I first set up a coral grow out system I ran into a lot of ballast capacitors degrading quick. Not sure if they were bad batches or they don’t make them like they used to. So now I keep spares on hand.
Thank you sir
 

djf91

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Here’s the inside of it. In the first picture you can see one of the new capacitors I installed. Bottom picture is the blown, deformed capacitor.

IMG_2306.jpeg
IMG_2298.jpeg

IMG_2297.jpeg
 

BeanAnimal

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Well, I started to respond, then decided not to because I hate typing on an iPad… ate dinner and was going to tag PaulErik… only to come back and see that he has taken care of you all… and done a better job than I would have, as most of what I know about ballast topology was a gift for him to begin with.
 

AquariumSpecialty

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We are pleased to announce that we are the new distributor for Radium 250 watt and 400 watt metal halide bulbs on the East Coast. We are now taking pre-orders for our shipment that we expect to arrive next week.

This week only we are offering a pre-order special for those in need. We are also offering wholesale pricing to retail stores.

Radium Metal Halide Bulbs | Aquarium Specialty

Radium Aquarium 20,000K Bulbs are available in 250w and 400w. Made in Germany, these lamps have a history of exceptional performance.
www.aquariumspecialty.com
www.aquariumspecialty.com
 

jackson6745

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@Reefering1 I swapped the capacitor and the ballast is running where it supposed to now. I used the one in the link that you originally posted.

One question, this capacitor doesn’t have a resistor like the original one did. Is this a big deal? From what I read it will discharge faster without it. Just curious if it’s needed.

FYI radium in middle, aquabrite solutions left snd right (t5 on as well 2 purple, 2 blue+).
 

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Reefering1

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@Reefering1 I swapped the capacitor and the ballast is running where it supposed to now. I used the one in the link that you originally posted.

One question, this capacitor doesn’t have a resistor like the original one did. Is this a big deal? From what I read it will discharge faster without it. Just curious if it’s needed.

FYI radium in middle, aquabrite solutions left snd right (t5 on as well 2 purple, 2 blue+).
Not a big deal, without the resistor it WILL hold electricity longer after being unplugged. You can solder the resistor to new cap if you want, but I wouldn't bother( because I always discharge the capacitor before handling them. Glad yours arrived! I ordered 5, they were supposed to arrive today but are delayed until "monday"... I wanted to tedt my pfo dual m80.. it works but hums loud and gets much hotter( fast) than the Hamilton ballasts. I'm hoping it's the capacitor but I can't find my kill a watt... probably just going to change all my capacitors. And order some more for backup.
Those aquabright bulbs look good. That's on m80 correct?
 

jackson6745

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Not a big deal, without the resistor it WILL hold electricity longer after being unplugged. You can solder the resistor to new cap if you want, but I wouldn't bother( because I always discharge the capacitor before handling them. Glad yours arrived! I ordered 5, they were supposed to arrive today but are delayed until "monday"... I wanted to tedt my pfo dual m80.. it works but hums loud and gets much hotter( fast) than the Hamilton ballasts. I'm hoping it's the capacitor but I can't find my kill a watt... probably just going to change all my capacitors. And order some more for backup.
Those aquabright bulbs look good. That's on m80 correct?

I’m going to change my other 2 ballast capacitors as well. These ballasts get hot as heck! Can’t hurt on a 20+ year old ballast. These new capacitors are slightly larger so you will need longer screws to mount it in. Not a big deal.

In this pic the left is an Aqua Brite solution 20k on m80, center is radium on m80, right is AB solution on electronic. Didn’t switch it yet in this pic.

The weird thing is that the radium looks terrible dim and blue on electronic ballast, and AB solution 20k looks pretty much the same on either ballast visually. It’s a good alternative if you don’t have an m80 IMO.
 

Reefering1

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That's weird, my Hamilton ballasts stay cool to the touch. But I only run them 6 hours a day. Do you have space and airflow around the boxes?
 

jackson6745

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That's weird, my Hamilton ballasts stay cool to the touch. But I only run them 6 hours a day. Do you have space and airflow around the boxes?

They’re in a cabinet. Not the best airflow. The have rubber feet so air passes under them. The top is cool to the touch but I can feel the heat in the cabinet. I actually removed the doors this morning so it’s probably a non issue already lol
 

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Reefering1

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Any chance you took (or can take) par measurements of the aquabright bulbs to compare output on m80 and e-ballast?
 

jackson6745

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Any chance you took (or can take) par measurements of the aquabright bulbs to compare output on m80 and e-ballast?


Messed around with the par meter for a little while. So, the radium and AB solution pretty much have the same par output on M80 ballasts. The AB solution bulb on electronic ballast is about 60 par less than the same bulb on M80 around most of my acros, and at the water surface it was 100 less par (600-700). Power draw is 250w electronic vs 330w M80 so that extra output isn't free :).
 

jackson6745

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Anyone ever ran the ushio bulbs on an m80/m135 ballast?
Click on my tank thread and look at the post towards the bottom of the thread on page 1. I have a photo of 250w 20k ushio with par numbers. It’s a much more yellow bulb than a radium 20k. Par numbers aren’t so high either.
 

djf91

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Click on my tank thread and look at the post towards the bottom of the thread on page 1. I have a photo of 250w 20k ushio with par numbers. It’s a much more yellow bulb than a radium 20k. Par numbers aren’t so high either.
Thanks!

I was looking at AV99s tank thread and really liked how his blues glowed under yellowish 14k ushio.
 

DIYreefer

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I apologize for my laziness if this has already been stated somewhere in this thread, but is there any word on DE halides making a comeback (particularly 250w)? I run a pair over my display tank for 3 hours per day (also haveT5s and LEDs) so they still have plenty of life in them, and I have another pair on hand for when the time comes to change them out, but I have no plan beyond that. I suppose I could switch to SE if necessary, but would rather not due to the configuration of my canopy.
 

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