Ya I missed that important factor. In a tank that age with that level of phosphate, if you don’t have algae, it is just not yetThe tank is only 3 weeks old. Keep up with regular water changes and maintenance and test again in a month or so.
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Ya I missed that important factor. In a tank that age with that level of phosphate, if you don’t have algae, it is just not yetThe tank is only 3 weeks old. Keep up with regular water changes and maintenance and test again in a month or so.
What are you laughing at? I’m fully aware of this topic and process and my statement is accurate. You even agree in your reply.Lol, bound phosphates will unbind until they are gone (assuming there's a removal process going on). No, the tests won't measure or tell you how much is bound, but if there is no other obvious source, this is the most likely scenario.
So what's your point?What are you laughing at? I’m fully aware of this topic and process and my statement is accurate. You even agree in your reply.
They won’t unbind unless you disturb the equilibrium, by removing a bunch from the water column, and even still it will revert to the prior level not higher.
Op mentioned nothing of any steps taken that would trigger unbinding. And it will not happen on its own, otherwise nobody would have phosphate bound rock issues.
No, new setups the rocks will continuously absorb phosphate until they can not hold anymore, and this generally takes 6-12 months. At that point people tend to notice high phosphate that is “impossible” to lower. This is because then do a water change or use gfo and as they absorb/remove phosphate from the water, new phosphate unbinds from the rock and reesrablishes the equilibrium. It does not continuously leach if you are not continuously removingBut it would release it into the water column
The test results are not high, based on logic and the info we have, due to rocks leaching / unbinding phosphate. It’s nearly impossibleSo what's your point?
Hardly impossible. You don't know the history of the OP's rock. It could very well have come from another tank and already be full of phosphate.The test results are not high, based on logic and the info we have, due to rocks leaching / unbinding phosphate. It’s nearly impossible
You talked me off the ledge a couple weeks ago, lol. I was at .81, now .22. I have also dosed 7 gallons of LC though.My phosphate was .98 end of July. Tank looks great lol
I have since lowered to .44 btw
Kidding about the amount I dosedYou talked me off the ledge a couple weeks ago, lol. I was at .81, now .22. I have also dosed 7 gallons of LC though.
Have you ever heard of levels like this from phosphate bound rock? Possible yes but very unlikely unless the rocks been cultivated in neophosHardly impossible. You don't know the history of the OP's rock. It could very well have come from another tank and already be full of phosphate.
I’m actually testing my phosphate now. I’m not sure what caused my .98 but the only change I had was trying crt v3 for a week.Kidding about the amount I dosed
Mine was operator error. I broke my tank down and it is sitting in a stock tank until my new tank gets here. I put some sand in my temporary 40b sump for some of my CUC to live. In doing so I took some pleco food from a planted tank I have and put 5-6 wafers in the sump for the snails, mostly the conks. Two days later I tested and WOW, it was like jet fuel. Read the ingredients and sure as poop, po4 is listed at the top of the list, sigh...I’m actually testing my phosphate now. I’m not sure what caused my .98 but the only change I had was trying crt v3 for a week.
Huh? We've already established that the test can only measure up to 3ppm, so the "10+" is a red herring now.Have you ever heard of levels like this from phosphate bound rock? Possible yes but very unlikely unless the rocks been cultivated in neophos
The worst of the worst situations on here don’t have a 10+ phosphate reading. I doubt it’s the scenario but hey, I could be wrong
You left out “nearly” I did leave room for possibility from the rocks, although, I still feel unlikely.Huh? We've already established that the test can only measure up to 3ppm, so the "10+" is a red herring now.
And sure, there very well might be other reasons, but to say it's "impossible" is silly.
Yes I know. But op bought the "live rock from eBay". So the rock's previous owner could have bound the phos. But that would take years of serious neglect and probably a predator tank. When it hits ops new tank the phos would unbind as if it were a 100% water change.No, new setups the rocks will continuously absorb phosphate until they can not hold anymore, and this generally takes 6-12 months. At that point people tend to notice high phosphate that is “impossible” to lower. This is because then do a water change or use gfo and as they absorb/remove phosphate from the water, new phosphate unbinds from the rock and reesrablishes the equilibrium. It does not continuously leach if you are not continuously removing
Eventually through aggressive use of gfo, algae scrubbers, or chemicals, all the phosphate will be unbound and levels will go down. Even this can take months though
I agree. Predator tank rock could cause this. And I don’t think the forum has many people with predator tanks, selling rock to new people, who then have phosphate issues. It’s completely plausible.Yes I know. But op bought the "live rock from eBay". So the rock's previous owner could have bound the phos. But that would take years of serious neglect and probably a predator tank. When it hits ops new tank the phos would unbind as if it were a 100% water change.
Still I think smart money is testing error until that's ruled out by op.
I just did another test and the color was basically the same, so for now I would only change 20% of water once a week because it's still a new tank and also keep a close eye on corals and algae growth, If things get much worse I will buy that phosphate absorption mediaHadn't thought of feeding too close to testing being an issue. That could be another reason.
Off topic but... change your swing plane to inside out to fix the slice!!Please post a picture of your test kit and result at 10ppm
I just did another test and the color was basically the same, so for now I would only change 20% of water once a week because it's still a new tank and also keep a close eye on corals and algae growth, If things get much worse I will buy that phosphate absorption media
Well the reason is 100% in the rock because I have crushed coral as my substrate, I do water changes rather to control nitrates level, and yet still phosphates. So about them, I think that with the growth of corals and algae as the tank matures, they should go away because after all, it cannot be that there's an infinite amount of it in my rockFWIW, don’t expect water changes to drop phosphate by the % changed. Any drop will likely be much lower due to desorption from rock and sand.