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Great work as always, Jason!

I have to ask. What magnifications do you find most useful for algae and bacteria identification?


Thanks, more coming from a couple other samples.

As for magnifications that is a range of them.

10x is good for scoping around looking for interesting areas to zoom in on and still see details. 4x was to far out and pulled that from the scope.

20x is great for the larger critters and following them. 40x was just to close up for those that were moving around quickly. 20x was a great addition but it's not common to come with a microscope as standard. I bought mine separate.

40x is a great balance of details and getting up close. Probably one of the best for a balance of magnification and quality.

60x starts to lose some of that quality but still holds on to some of it while getting pretty close. Another add on I bought and I really like and doesn't come standard with most microscopes. Slightly more magnificiation then the 40x but better image quality then a 100x.

100x I'll use briefly here and there. The quality is noticeable here but work it for when I really want to get up close and personal to some bacteria. If you are using 20x or 25x eyepieces the quality is even worse. Problem is the standard 100x that comes with microscopes are oil and spring. So you have to put oil down on the cover slip for best quality. This makes it so you can't go back to another spring lens that doesn't use oil (aka dry). If you do you could damage the objective. So, once I put down some oil I could go back to the 4x, 10x, or 20x lens but not the 40x or 60x that are dry spring objectives. Which 40x is one of my favorites. That annoyed me so I invested in a 100x dry objective which was the most expensive objective I've bought so far. But it's been worth is as I like to switch to the 100x and back to the 40x or 60x quite often.
 
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Thanks, more coming from a couple other samples.

As for magnifications that is a range of them.

10x is good for scoping around looking for interesting areas to zoom in on and still see details. 4x was to far out and pulled that from the scope.

20x is great for the larger critters and following them. 40x was just to close up for those that were moving around quickly. 20x was a great addition but it's not common to come with a microscope as standard. I bought mine separate.

40x is a great balance of details and getting up close. Probably one of the best for a balance of magnification and quality.

60x starts to lose some of that quality but still holds on to some of it while getting pretty close. Another add on I bought and I really like and doesn't come standard with most microscopes. Slightly more magnificiation then the 40x but better image quality then a 100x.

100x I'll use briefly here and there. The quality is noticeable here but work it for when I really want to get up close and personal to some bacteria. If you are using 20x or 25x eyepieces the quality is even worse. Problem is the standard 100x that comes with microscopes are oil and spring. So you have to put oil down on the cover slip for best quality. This makes it so you can't go back to another spring lens that doesn't use oil (aka dry). If you do you could damage the objective. So, once I put down some oil I could go back to the 4x, 10x, or 20x lens but not the 40x or 60x that are dry spring objectives. Which 40x is one of my favorites. That annoyed me so I invested in a 100x dry objective which was the most expensive objective I've bought so far. But it's been worth is as I like to switch to the 100x and back to the 40x or 60x quite often.
Thanks for the input. I was guessing there isn't much need for anything close to the 1000x+ magnification settings on higher end scopes. Just wanted to make sure I was right on that count.
 
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Sample from the overflow

45a3c9228746f52fe5387c5e65c833d3.jpg


Sliced on the left and pipette on the right
90eacd7d477119228bf2e800adb1994f.jpg
 
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Top Shelf Aquatics
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AS
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They are very cool and this is one moving around with it's cytoplasm.

While I was playing around with the darkfield I ran accross the weird overexposed object except it had feelers, for a lack of a better word, stretching out all around it. I went back to darkfield again toward the end of this video. I didn't have it recording when I first ran into in darkfield.






 

Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
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