NOT WINNING!! Need some help please!

TRPlacek

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Over the last couple weeks I've been noticing some of my coral have had tissue loss in various places and color fading again after I had brought the color back from a low nutrient phase.

The 2 things that have changed over the last month or two is I have brought nitrates up from undetectable to 4ppm by feeding heavily. Phosphates are still undetectable. I also replaced my glass tops for screen. When I did this I lowered intensity of radions. I then added 2 more t5s for a total of 4. 2 blue+ and 2 coral+.

Tank specs:
-90 gallon 18x20x60
-25 gallon sump with refugium and curve 7 skimmer (skimming dry)

Parameters:
Kh- 8.7
Cal- 460
Mag- 1460
Po4- 0.00
No3- 4ppm

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Rick.45cal

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You've fixed your 0 NO3 problem, but now you have created a phosphate limited system. 0 PO4 is bad especially with ample NO3 available. You need to increase your phosphates to detectable levels. However you are managing your PO4 you are overdoing it.

Corals have high mortatlity rates in Phosphate limited systems. We're not talking bleashing events, but RTN and symptoms like in your pictures.

There is also the possiblility of pests. I will let others chime in

Particularly #Reefsquad
 

Diesel

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Dang dude.
All # are looking good.
I would do a triton test or let your water tested by a friend hobbyist or so.
I suspect a default in reading on your ALK.
Low ALK can do that to SPS.
So not really big swings in a 24 hour period?
 
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TRPlacek

TRPlacek

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You've fixed your 0 NO3 problem, but now you have created a phosphate limited system. 0 PO4 is bad especially with ample NO3 available. You need to increase your phosphates to detectable levels. However you are managing your PO4 you are overdoing it.

Corals have high mortatlity rates in Phosphate limited systems. We're not talking bleashing events, but RTN and symptoms like in your pictures.

There is also the possiblility of pests. I will let others chime in

Particularly #Reefsquad
How do I bring up phosphates? I've been feeding pellets with high phosphate content 4 times a day. All I run for nutrient export is a fuge and skimmer. I'm at a loss
 
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TRPlacek

TRPlacek

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Dang dude.
All # are looking good.
I would do a triton test or let your water tested by a friend hobbyist or so.
I suspect a default in reading on your ALK.
Low ALK can do that to SPS.
So not really big swings in a 24 hour period?
I have had titrant go bad in the past with red sea. I will double check with another test. I will most likely send a sample in to triton as well. And no major swings. It did go up from 7.8 to 8.7 in about a week's time. Seemed like the coral just stopped using kh and cal.
 

Sabellafella

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You've fixed your 0 NO3 problem, but now you have created a phosphate limited system. 0 PO4 is bad especially with ample NO3 available. You need to increase your phosphates to detectable levels. However you are managing your PO4 you are overdoing it.

Corals have high mortatlity rates in Phosphate limited systems. We're not talking bleashing events, but RTN and symptoms like in your pictures.

There is also the possiblility of pests. I will let others chime in
Sounds about right, basically the only problem that ive ben running into lately. I usually only feed frozen, but remedied the p04 problem i had with using flake twice a day ontop off my normal feedings.
 

twilliard

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New life spectrum pellets and seaweed extreme 4 times a day and lrs fish frenzy every other day
Here is a quick test for Po4
using a red sea Po4 tet substitute 1ml of the 17ml test with the undrained liquid of frozen food.
This will give you an idea of the amount of Po4 "dosed"
If you rinse your frozen food you will not see Po4 added.
There are other methods of adding Po4 but these at times add too much.
 

slayerhellfire

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have you ruled out any pest? Honestly unless you tank is super new those levels should not cause that problem.
 
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TRPlacek

TRPlacek

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That can just do it even it's just for a week.
with low No3 and 0 Po4 SPS can be sensitive.
How often you change your water and how much?
I stopped doing water changes about a month ago. I also stopped dosing 2 part once I noticed alk levels continuously going up even after backing off little by little.
 
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TRPlacek

TRPlacek

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have you ruled out any pest? Honestly unless you tank is super new those levels should not cause that problem.
I have looked for pests and have also put some of the same coral in my other tank and they are doing great. I don't think it is pests due to how many coral are being affected in a short time.
 
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TRPlacek

TRPlacek

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Here is a quick test for Po4
using a red sea Po4 tet substitute 1ml of the 17ml test with the undrained liquid of frozen food.
This will give you an idea of the amount of Po4 "dosed"
If you rinse your frozen food you will not see Po4 added.
There are other methods of adding Po4 but these at times add too much.
I currently only have a Hannah low range checker. I also don't rinse the frozen food. Phosphates are definitely entering the system. Where they go is what I'm unsure of.
 

Tyreef2016

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I know nothing on this subject. But you said you switched your glass cover for a screen one. Wouldn't this change a few things? although i don't think it's your problem, I just wanted to bring it up incase someone knows something i don't on this subject.
 
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TRPlacek

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I know nothing on this subject. But you said you switched your glass cover for a screen one. Wouldn't this change a few things? although i don't think it's your problem, I just wanted to bring it up incase someone knows something i don't on this subject.
It definitely changes the par a bit which is why I lowered the intensity of the radion. I then added the t5s but I believe I did acclimation correctly. I've been leaning towards the undetectable po4 as I have read that could be an issue but I also don't understand why my po4 is undetectable seeing how much I feed and the type of food I feed. I know it's probably time to send in a triton test.
 

Rick.45cal

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You can dose a solution of food grade tri sodium phosphate, or brightwell's NeoPhos.

The increased PAR has probably contributed to it. Possibly pushing you into a high light situation where there needs to be detectable nutrients otherwise you end up with problems. My tank falls into the high light category
 

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