Nitrae/Phosphate Ratio - Super high Phosphate, and bottoming out Nitrate.

The Opinionated Reefer

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w do you know that is the cause?
Is it not common knowledge? You're supposed to dose it into a filter sock or something to catch the particles so that the fish don't breathe it in. Tangs are especially vulnerable. The clouding is the result of precipitate and that precipitate impacts their gills and can kill sensitive fish such as tangs

I have read this on many forum posts. Always assumed it was true.
 
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WHat product has lanthium chloride in it?? Seems like Phosguard, or better yet GFO are the best alternatives. Specifically GFO if you are worried about any aluminum release.
 

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I think any sort of liquid phosphate remover
I can tell you I've been dosing lanthium at 1ml per 90g daily for the past two months to manage phosphates exceptionally well, with no fallout. I don't even use a filter sock and simply drop 1ml in front of my skimmer. This is half the recommended dose however, but I get no clouding in the display and no sign of fish irritation.
 

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I can tell you I've been dosing lanthium at 1ml per 90g daily for the past two months to manage phosphates exceptionally well, with no fallout. I don't even use a filter sock and simply drop 1ml in front of my skimmer. This is half the recommended dose however, but I get no clouding in the display and no sign of fish irritation.
yes its only really an issue if you mad with the stuff and cloud up your tank.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Is it not common knowledge? You're supposed to dose it into a filter sock or something to catch the particles so that the fish don't breathe it in. Tangs are especially vulnerable. The clouding is the result of precipitate and that precipitate impacts their gills and can kill sensitive fish such as tangs

I have read this on many forum posts. Always assumed it was true.

It is a speculation that I have seen before without ever seeing evidence.

It could also be a direct binding effect of soluble lanthanum on gills, or some indirect effect of lanthanum.

Most confusing is why so few users observe it. Certainly less than half of users, maybe much less than half.
 

ocncheffy

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Is there any advantage/benefit of lanthium over GFO or Phosguard?
I had a lot of issues with SPS and GFO. I think I had a hard time controlling it with a reactor, and it dropped too much too fast. With lanthium, it drops quickly but only a tiny amount according to your measurement. Much less harsh on sensitive coral.
 
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I had a lot of issues with SPS and GFO. I think I had a hard time controlling it with a reactor, and it dropped too much too fast. With lanthium, it drops quickly but only a tiny amount according to your measurement. Much less harsh on sensitive coral.
That is why i stuck with PHOSGUARD > GFO - people were telling me its more controllable. I would rather have higher phosphates that are slowly going down, than bottoming out nutrients.
 

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It is a speculation that I have seen before without ever seeing evidence.

It could also be a direct binding effect of soluble lanthanum on gills, or some indirect effect of lanthanum.

Most confusing is why so few users observe it. Certainly less than half of users, maybe much less than half.
I would imagine its people who go mad with it and cloud up their tanks that loose fish the most lol
 

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I had a lot of issues with SPS and GFO. I think I had a hard time controlling it with a reactor, and it dropped too much too fast. With lanthium, it drops quickly but only a tiny amount according to your measurement. Much less harsh on sensitive coral.
The way to control it and lower phosphate slowly is to use half of what you think you need and only have a tiny trickle of water flowing through the reactor.
 
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Can you mix different types of phosphate media like GFO and an aluminium-based adsorber in the same reactor? Would that have any sort of adverse effects?
I was actually thinking of doing that. Just ordered some ROWA GFO yesterday in hopes of speeding up the process a bit, and not risking aluminum. At this rate I feel like I will be reliant on some phosphate exporter long term.
 

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I am getting the numbers down, but it is more difficult than I thought. The PHOSGUARD gets depleted very quickly. I have to be careful to keep dosing calcium nitrate, but not dose to much or else the nitrate will spike rather fast. It takes a lot of testing to be sure my nitrates are not bottoming out which also happens very fast. Even with fresh PHOSGUARD it will cause the phosphate to spike if the nitrate bottoms out.

My last reading was .8ppm phosphate, and 1.1ppm nitrate! I just replaced the PHOSGUARD again, so hopefully the next few days I can get that down to .5-.6 range. Slow and steady!!
I know you don't like the "unorthodox/uncommon" advice, but just don't care about your NO3. @Kato, in the beginning of the thread hit the nail on the head.

If you feed daily you add nitrogen, the ammonia, which corals much prefer to NO3, will nourish your corals before it's available as NO3 which is then kept low and unavailable for algae. This is perfect!

Only if the corals go pale, you might have too little nitrogen. Look at your corals. They love the PO4 and are colorful, so why try and remove it? It's not adverse for the corals.

Feed your fish, look at your corals and general health of the aquarium and do water changes accordingly. It's such a small tank, this is by far the easiest, simplest and most repeatable approach. :)
Just my 10 cents.
 
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I know you don't like the "unorthodox/uncommon" advice, but just don't care about your NO3. @Kato, in the beginning of the thread hit the nail on the head.

If you feed daily you add nitrogen, the ammonia, which corals much prefer to NO3, will nourish your corals before it's available as NO3 which is then kept low and unavailable for algae. This is perfect!

Only if the corals go pale, you might have too little nitrogen. Look at your corals. They love the PO4 and are colorful, so why try and remove it? It's not adverse for the corals.

Feed your fish, look at your corals and general health of the aquarium and do water changes accordingly. It's such a small tank, this is by far the easiest, simplest and most repeatable approach. :)
Just my 10 cents.
The problem is I am having issues with the tank. Some corals dont look the best, and randomly I have RFA's slowly getting smaller. The only issue with my params is Phosphates are to high, and nitrates to low. The fact I am trying to get the phosphates lower may be bothering the corals as the params are changing each week, but I imagine it is more so the fact the phosphates are to high. Anyways I appreciate your opinion, but just totally disagree. Just "letting it go" would cause more problems with my tank in the long run, and give me a lack of understanding on my water params. Did you even look back and see where it was at earlier?

My NO3 and PO4 numbers have been the most crucial part of my overall tank health thus far.
 

Reef_Curiosity

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The problem is I am having issues with the tank. Some corals dont look the best, and randomly I have RFA's slowly getting smaller. The only issue with my params is Phosphates are to high, and nitrates to low. The fact I am trying to get the phosphates lower may be bothering the corals as the params are changing each week, but I imagine it is more so the fact the phosphates are to high. Anyways I appreciate your opinion, but just totally disagree. Just "letting it go" would cause more problems with my tank in the long run, and give me a lack of understanding on my water params. Did you even look back and see where it was at earlier?

My NO3 and PO4 numbers have been the most crucial part of my overall tank health thus far.
Yes, I read through the posts, and thought: "so many imaginary problems people try to fix with guesswork and multiple pronged attacks, how can they know what works and what doesn't?" :)

If you read Andrew Shantz paper on corals' reaction to elevated N and P, you can see it's scientifically proven that PO4 in itself, is "neutral to beneficial" for corals and not detrimental. Nitrate was the opposite.

So if you throw away the glasses that make you view PO4 as bad and NO3 as important, you are left with good nutrient numbers with other glasses. Why not try wearing these glasses for a few minutes and do a brainstorm?

If your corals look stressed, then what could it be? Instead of focusing on a presumption about nutrients, I would brainstorm this.
Maybe the lighting conditions and penetration has changed. Maybe there is a fish or crab annoying the corals. Maybe stray voltage is present. Maybe there are too many bristleworms. Maybe aiptasia underneath the coral. etc etc.
All of these are possible as well, but the PO4 has been made the culprit from the get go, and working on it has not helped it seems.
So maybe it's something else. :)

I run PO4 0.2-0.9 and NO3 at 0.0-1.0 depending on the tank btw. No corals lose color or tissue with this. On the contrary.
I know you didn't ask, and I'm sorry for butting in. But we are all passionate reefers, we can't help it. :)
Good luck with the tank, I hope your corals improve, I know how frustrating it can be when they don't!
 

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Yes, I read through the posts, and thought: "so many imaginary problems people try to fix with guesswork and multiple pronged attacks, how can they know what works and what doesn't?" :)

If you read Andrew Shantz paper on corals' reaction to elevated N and P, you can see it's scientifically proven that PO4 in itself, is "neutral to beneficial" for corals and not detrimental. Nitrate was the opposite.

So if you throw away the glasses that make you view PO4 as bad and NO3 as important, you are left with good nutrient numbers with other glasses. Why not try wearing these glasses for a few minutes and do a brainstorm?

If your corals look stressed, then what could it be? Instead of focusing on a presumption about nutrients, I would brainstorm this.
Maybe the lighting conditions and penetration has changed. Maybe there is a fish or crab annoying the corals. Maybe stray voltage is present. Maybe there are too many bristleworms. Maybe aiptasia underneath the coral. etc etc.
All of these are possible as well, but the PO4 has been made the culprit from the get go, and working on it has not helped it seems.
So maybe it's something else. :)

I run PO4 0.2-0.9 and NO3 at 0.0-1.0 depending on the tank btw. No corals lose color or tissue with this. On the contrary.
I know you didn't ask, and I'm sorry for butting in. But we are all passionate reefers, we can't help it. :)
Good luck with the tank, I hope your corals improve, I know how frustrating it can be when they don't!
I agree more or less, I have had really a successfully sps-dominated tank, with phosphates as high as 0.6 and nitrates virtually undetectable. I did get a lot of nuisance slime and stuff forming when I had nutrients like that. If I put a frag rack in the tank it would need to be taken out and cleaned within a fortnight, was very annoying. I think the high phosphates were good for the corals but it's better to keep them lower because it prevents so much nuisance slimes and algae from forming.
 
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Yes, I read through the posts, and thought: "so many imaginary problems people try to fix with guesswork and multiple pronged attacks, how can they know what works and what doesn't?" :)

If you read Andrew Shantz paper on corals' reaction to elevated N and P, you can see it's scientifically proven that PO4 in itself, is "neutral to beneficial" for corals and not detrimental. Nitrate was the opposite.

So if you throw away the glasses that make you view PO4 as bad and NO3 as important, you are left with good nutrient numbers with other glasses. Why not try wearing these glasses for a few minutes and do a brainstorm?

If your corals look stressed, then what could it be? Instead of focusing on a presumption about nutrients, I would brainstorm this.
Maybe the lighting conditions and penetration has changed. Maybe there is a fish or crab annoying the corals. Maybe stray voltage is present. Maybe there are too many bristleworms. Maybe aiptasia underneath the coral. etc etc.
All of these are possible as well, but the PO4 has been made the culprit from the get go, and working on it has not helped it seems.
So maybe it's something else. :)

I run PO4 0.2-0.9 and NO3 at 0.0-1.0 depending on the tank btw. No corals lose color or tissue with this. On the contrary.
I know you didn't ask, and I'm sorry for butting in. But we are all passionate reefers, we can't help it. :)
Good luck with the tank, I hope your corals improve, I know how frustrating it can be when they don't!
Show me any legitimate source saying 1.0+ppm of phosphate is in no way detrimental to your tank that is not a 70 page research paper done by one person.. Kind of hard to believe seeing the ocean has basically 0 phosphates.

My tank is 2+ years strong. Haven't changed my lightning, haven't changed my flow, haven't changed really anything other than the fact corals are growing into each other.. Really the only param fluctuating each month is my nutrients. Sorry for getting frustrated, it is just soo annoying at this point when different hobbyists come in and just "upturn" all the advice I have gotten from everyone else. There's a plethora problems that it could be still, and I just have to make the ecosystem as "good/proper" as possible for the life inside. This thread isnt called "please help me with my corals" - this thread is called "Nitrae/Phosphate Ratio - Super high Phosphate, and bottoming out Nitrate"...

With this idea, I am shooting for a certain nutrient number. I am trying to go as slow as possible not to bother everything. Part of the goal of getting phosphates down, is to help nitrates go up. That alone should be reasoning enough not to accept very high phosphates like this..

Regardless, thank you for chiming in and attempting to help. I also hope the specific corals not doing the best start to improve. For the most part though the tank is looking all right. Have a couple RFAs slowly shrinking which is what is bothering me the most.
 
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