I should have grabbed that dbl head! Could have let it grow out a bit and had you a head. Let me see whats up!We need to get my name on his cut list
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I should have grabbed that dbl head! Could have let it grow out a bit and had you a head. Let me see whats up!We need to get my name on his cut list
Jeon green and ive seen them 8 9 inchesHow big is acantho, as depending on color, that is cheap.
I would go with the acantho at that size lol. It would be like an overweight belly dancer when happy in the flow lol.Jeon green and ive seen them 8 9 inches
Forgot this.I would go with the acantho at that size lol. It would be like an overweight belly dancer when happy in the flow lol.
Take this the right way young fellow Canadian dude but I would say, just going by your other posts, that your $300 could be spent in other boring but important things for your aquarium.I'm probably based on what people are saying get the acantho unless there's a cheaper torch thats gold
CAPITALISM FOR THE WIN!!You are by some of the best AC facilities around lol. NYCK torches are flooded there. Espcially GSC and their indo golds. Pretty corals, but they have a crap ton, so lower price.
I should have grabbed that dbl head! Could have let it grow out a bit and had you a head. Let me see whats up!
Thanks for the recommendation, @LRTHey Soren salifert has on oxygen test kit you can pick up that reads spot on with Seneye
Yes, I appreciate the advice, @najerNot bashing, people that know me better will know this is just my honest opinion as you have been so honest, I'll say it, the tank has been neglected a bit, just need a plan to fix it.
I know what I think I know about oxygen orp, I don't measure it but oxygen is good.
Sorry about the purple, hope the others are ok.
Can you explain a bit more what you mean with your comment about oxygen orp? I've heard of this before but have not researched it much yet. I'm always glad to hear advice and opinions from others, especially those like you with years of experience ahead of mine.
Oh, and I also believe open honesty is one of the best things for communication, so I try to be so in my posts and appreciate that others respond accordingly.
I don't have 300 in dry goods. My store however I have live stock credit of 400 almostTake this the right way young fellow Canadian dude but I would say, just going by your other posts, that your $300 could be spent in other boring but important things for your aquarium.
Trust me, I know it’s dull but putting a spendy coral in a tank that isn’t ready for it is not money well spent.
Get the boring stuff your tank needs first then buy coral with whatever is left over.
I don't have 300 in dry goods. My store however I have live stock credit of 400 almost
I Love trios of YT's! A little envious about that!well we are heading out in a few to try and score 2 yellow tangs to add to the hawaii yellow tang we have.. want to use the 140 as the introduce tang, after we mess things around and add some fake plants before we let all the tangs free in the 300, maybe next week...or tomorrow...have to make sure the 300 can handle the additional bio load. Want to say thanks to all of you that said either 1 or 3 tangs...so yep she wants 3....so far seeing them for 250.00 plus....hope to make a cash deal....be back tonight with bourbon.....it is FRIDAY
Thanks, I know more or less the definition but was wondering if you used/measured ORP or had opinions about how to use this information? I'll see what @Lasse can share about this as well.Orp - oxygen redox potential, hard to explain as I am not that well schooled in chemistry, @Lasse could probably do a beginners guide, hopefully others will chime in, it is basically how much oxygen is available.
Tangs, especially yellows, look the best in groups up to about 20, in my opinion!I Love trios of YT's! A little envious about that!
Feel like I’m putting on a tin foil hat buuuut could it be a bacterial bloom overnight taking away available oxygen + furnace already making oxygen lower than normal and don’t forget that cyano will also use oxygen idk a lot of variables at playI thought nitrates needed to be much higher to be a problem. I'm guessing it is mostly due to stress, since the tang was hiding all the time for some reason? I am also wondering if I need fresher air in my house after closing windows for winter and running my furnace, since there is a possibility that even the living room tank has low pH (though it shows about 8 on API 5-in-1 tests). I need to get some better pH-testing methods.
There is a power head aimed at the top surface of the water to keep it turbulent for air exchange (which is what I always try to do, especially for marine tanks) and I am running a ReefOctopus HOB 90 skimmer with vigorous air intake, so I don't think the oxygen is low, but I don't know how to measure oxygen? The chromis seems to be doing fine and does not have elevated respiration, but I've been trying to watch this close since most of my fish in the QT's seem to have elevated respiration (again, possibly due to low pH limiting oxygen?).
I'll see what happens after doing a good cleaning on Saturday morning and may move some of the QT fish to this tank now, since it is more-or-less just another QT since I will be rearranging and eliminating this setup later once I have my 125-125 build finished.
Yes, I have not measured other parameters to see what is causing the issue, but I know my lack of maintenance and never measuring most parameters does not help the situation. I guess I should also check salinity just in case, but this is one parameter that I usually do measure regularly with a swing-arm hygrometer.
As far as I can tell, the FOWLR has not had dinos or diatoms, but the brown hair algae and cyanobacteria cover the rocks, the back glass, and part of the sand bed.
Bacteria bloom is possible, though I have not seen evidence of it in my FOWLR. It certainly could have been an impact on my QT's, though, especially since I dosed PraziPro a week ago which can cause bacterial blooms and reduced oxygen. I added bubblers to my QT's to try to counteract this and have not seen any major indicators of bacteria, although my 2nd QT that has calcareous sand did have a slight whiteness to the water when the 2 fish died, which may have been either bacterial bloom or bubble suspended in the water by being chopped and spread by the pumps.Feel like I’m putting on a tin foil hat buuuut could it be a bacterial bloom overnight taking away available oxygen + furnace already making oxygen lower than normal and don’t forget that cyano will also use oxygen idk a lot of variables at play
I have opinions but do not measure it so can't help, I use a Sochting Oxydator or two, poor man's ozone sort of.Thanks, I know more or less the definition but was wondering if you used/measured ORP or had opinions about how to use this information? I'll see what @Lasse can share about this as well.
Yes , you’ll often find cyano in low flow / oxygen deprived areas though not always the case.Bacteria bloom is possible, though I have not seen evidence of it in my FOWLR. It certainly could have been an impact on my QT's, though, especially since I dosed PraziPro a week ago which can cause bacterial blooms and reduced oxygen. I added bubblers to my QT's to try to counteract this and have not seen any major indicators of bacteria, although my 2nd QT that has calcareous sand did have a slight whiteness to the water when the 2 fish died, which may have been either bacterial bloom or bubble suspended in the water by being chopped and spread by the pumps.
I did not know cyano robs oxygen! I'm definitely going to have to watch this more closely and clean more often in the future.