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Lost in the Sauce

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Hi all,
I hope you all are having a better day than I am with regards to this marine hobby. My purple tang was found dead this morning in my FOWLR, probably due to poor water quality (though ammonia and nitrites are zero but nitrates are around 160-200 ppm and brown hair algae and cyanobacteria are excessive...)
Aww man that's no good.

I may be wrong here, but nitrates need to be a lot higher than that to be toxic, if they even can be.

Are you oxygenating the water?
 

LRT

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Hi all,
I hope you all are having a better day than I am with regards to this marine hobby. My purple tang was found dead this morning in my FOWLR, probably due to poor water quality (though ammonia and nitrites are zero but nitrates are around 160-200 ppm and brown hair algae and cyanobacteria are excessive...)
Not sure about toxicity and harming tang or anything but can tell you I just had to get rid of my porcupine puffer for same reason. Sky high nitrates bottoming out phosphates wreaking dino havoc in one of my tanks. All I can say is I've noticed the grumpy old tang has really perked up since I started scrubbing nitrates and removing them. Dinos is going away as well.
 

Soren

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Aww man that's no good.

I may be wrong here, but nitrates need to be a lot higher than that to be toxic, if they even can be.

Are you oxygenating the water?
I thought nitrates needed to be much higher to be a problem. I'm guessing it is mostly due to stress, since the tang was hiding all the time for some reason? I am also wondering if I need fresher air in my house after closing windows for winter and running my furnace, since there is a possibility that even the living room tank has low pH (though it shows about 8 on API 5-in-1 tests). I need to get some better pH-testing methods.

There is a power head aimed at the top surface of the water to keep it turbulent for air exchange (which is what I always try to do, especially for marine tanks) and I am running a ReefOctopus HOB 90 skimmer with vigorous air intake, so I don't think the oxygen is low, but I don't know how to measure oxygen? The chromis seems to be doing fine and does not have elevated respiration, but I've been trying to watch this close since most of my fish in the QT's seem to have elevated respiration (again, possibly due to low pH limiting oxygen?).

I'll see what happens after doing a good cleaning on Saturday morning and may move some of the QT fish to this tank now, since it is more-or-less just another QT since I will be rearranging and eliminating this setup later once I have my 125-125 build finished.

Not sure about toxicity and harming tang or anything but can tell you I just had to get rid of my porcupine puffer for same reason. Sky high nitrates bottoming out phosphates wreaking dino havoc in one of my tanks. All I can say is I've noticed the grumpy old tang has really perked up since I started scrubbing nitrates and removing them. Dinos is going away as well.
Yes, I have not measured other parameters to see what is causing the issue, but I know my lack of maintenance and never measuring most parameters does not help the situation. I guess I should also check salinity just in case, but this is one parameter that I usually do measure regularly with a swing-arm hygrometer.

As far as I can tell, the FOWLR has not had dinos or diatoms, but the brown hair algae and cyanobacteria cover the rocks, the back glass, and part of the sand bed.
 

GHOSTLY

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Hey so I'm thinking of a trade. What would look better in my fluval evo. One head of nyk torcj for 350 or a 8 inch neon green acantho? Don't give me the "its up to you" I'm asking what would look best for colouration and pricing
 

LRT

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I thought nitrates needed to be much higher to be a problem. I'm guessing it is mostly due to stress, since the tang was hiding all the time for some reason? I am also wondering if I need fresher air in my house after closing windows for winter and running my furnace, since there is a possibility that even the living room tank has low pH (though it shows about 8 on API 5-in-1 tests). I need to get some better pH-testing methods.

There is a power head aimed at the top surface of the water to keep it turbulent for air exchange (which is what I always try to do, especially for marine tanks) and I am running a ReefOctopus HOB 90 skimmer with vigorous air intake, so I don't think the oxygen is low, but I don't know how to measure oxygen? The chromis seems to be doing fine and does not have elevated respiration, but I've been trying to watch this close since most of my fish in the QT's seem to have elevated respiration (again, possibly due to low pH limiting oxygen?).

I'll see what happens after doing a good cleaning on Saturday morning and may move some of the QT fish to this tank now, since it is more-or-less just another QT since I will be rearranging and eliminating this setup later once I have my 125-125 build finished.


Yes, I have not measured other parameters to see what is causing the issue, but I know my lack of maintenance and never measuring most parameters does not help the situation. I guess I should also check salinity just in case, but this is one parameter that I usually do measure regularly with a swing-arm hygrometer.

As far as I can tell, the FOWLR has not had dinos or diatoms, but the brown hair algae and cyanobacteria cover the rocks, the back glass, and part of the sand bed.
Hey Soren salifert has on oxygen test kit you can pick up that reads spot on with Seneye
 

Eagle_Steve

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Hey so I'm thinking of a trade. What would look better in my fluval evo. One head of nyk torcj for 350 or a 8 inch neon green acantho? Don't give me the "its up to you" I'm asking what would look best for colouration and pricing
I would go with the torch, but I like movement. Do not get me wrong, an acantho when happy with jiggle around when puffy, but nothing like a torch swaying.
 

LRT

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I would go with the torch, but I like movement. Do not get me wrong, an acantho when happy with jiggle around when puffy, but nothing like a torch swaying.
воспылал-ignited.gif
 

Lost in the Sauce

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Hey so I'm thinking of a trade. What would look better in my fluval evo. One head of nyk torcj for 350 or a 8 inch neon green acantho? Don't give me the "its up to you" I'm asking what would look best for colouration and pricing
One headed torch vs 8" acantho... I'd go open brain if the color is good, but I've also already got a bunch of flowy things.
 

Eagle_Steve

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Thank you for that answer. Is 350 for one head of nyk torch worth it?
for a real one, that is about average. if this is a local seller, they need to come down some. I know what wholesale is before freight and all of that, so retail 350 is cool. Local seller who fragged one they had, not cool IMO.
 
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fishguy242

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Its 350 for one but the acantho is 250. I can afford one but can't decide for some reason
get the acantho, just a torch too much..;) maybe 200 ?? head.
 

najer

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I thought nitrates needed to be much higher to be a problem. I'm guessing it is mostly due to stress, since the tang was hiding all the time for some reason? I am also wondering if I need fresher air in my house after closing windows for winter and running my furnace, since there is a possibility that even the living room tank has low pH (though it shows about 8 on API 5-in-1 tests). I need to get some better pH-testing methods.

There is a power head aimed at the top surface of the water to keep it turbulent for air exchange (which is what I always try to do, especially for marine tanks) and I am running a ReefOctopus HOB 90 skimmer with vigorous air intake, so I don't think the oxygen is low, but I don't know how to measure oxygen? The chromis seems to be doing fine and does not have elevated respiration, but I've been trying to watch this close since most of my fish in the QT's seem to have elevated respiration (again, possibly due to low pH limiting oxygen?).

I'll see what happens after doing a good cleaning on Saturday morning and may move some of the QT fish to this tank now, since it is more-or-less just another QT since I will be rearranging and eliminating this setup later once I have my 125-125 build finished.


Yes, I have not measured other parameters to see what is causing the issue, but I know my lack of maintenance and never measuring most parameters does not help the situation. I guess I should also check salinity just in case, but this is one parameter that I usually do measure regularly with a swing-arm hygrometer.

As far as I can tell, the FOWLR has not had dinos or diatoms, but the brown hair algae and cyanobacteria cover the rocks, the back glass, and part of the sand bed.
Not bashing, people that know me better will know this is just my honest opinion as you have been so honest, I'll say it, the tank has been neglected a bit, just need a plan to fix it.
I know what I think I know about oxygen orp, I don't measure it but oxygen is good.
Sorry about the purple, hope the others are ok.
 

Lost in the Sauce

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for a real one, that is about average. if this is a local seller, they need to come down some. I know what wholesale is before freight and all of that, so retail 350 is cool. Local seller who fragged one they had, not cool IMO.
I don't see nyk committing anywhere near that price here anymore. 175-300/ top range for Really colored up specimine.
 

LRT

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Dude at my lfs has an old school lineage cotton candy torch thats probably the nicest coral I've seen in a tank. Knicks torch looks plain next to it.
He sells 2 heads for that price for cotton candy id go cotton candy all day long:)
 

Lost in the Sauce

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Dude at my lfs has an old school lineage cotton candy torch thats probably the nicest coral I've seen in a tank. Knicks torch looks plain next to it.
He sells 2 heads for that price for cotton candy id go cotton candy all day long:)
We need to get my name on his cut list
 

Eagle_Steve

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I don't see nyk committing anywhere near that price here anymore. 175-300/ top range for Really colored up specimine.
You are by some of the best AC facilities around lol. NYCK torches are flooded there. Espcially GSC and their indo golds. Pretty corals, but they have a crap ton, so lower price.
 
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