Losing Yellow color on my acro, but instead they get more Green-er

[cgcobalt]

For your information, im adding my own DIY trave elements , pairing with the micro nutrients.
For Trace / Micro element, im using Yara Rexolin APN , which also provides like picture below on daily basis.

I set my N to 0.25 and P to 0.05 . Also dose into the system in daily basis.
Im also dosing micro nutrients from Aquaforest, called Component Strong ( which also provides Fe and the rest )
All these 2 , i mixed into one and make them all in one solution.
Here the question, does the elevated dosing of micro nutrients, affect the specific coloration of my acro?
It used to have strong yellow hue on my Sunset Mili and also PC rainbow. Now they get to vibrant green.
The growth is great, nothing wrong or hiccups when it comes to growth. Just the shifting of color.

Im sorry, for now i never done any ICP test yet.

But some says , yellow actually coming from high light + low N and P.

But i saw in current YT video, it says Fe definitely affect his sps , make em turn green ( the same case as mine ) .

My current param

Kh 9.5
No 3 1-2
Po4 0.15 ~ 0.2
Temperature 25~ 25.9 celcius ( using chiller )

 

[SeaDweller]

What about your lighting schedule- Are you running enough of a white spectrum? Greening could indicate you’re running too much of a blue spectrum without enough white light.

 

[cgcobalt]

From 8 am, ended on 12 am . I know it's long as heck lol. But it's definitely boost their growth ( and also my red slime lol ) .

Brb i share with you my Chihiros Nova 1 light setting.

What about your lighting schedule- Are you running enough of a white spectrum? Greening could indicate you’re running too much of a blue spectrum without enough white light.

 

[SeaDweller]

My money would be on your lighting more than a trace element issue, how often are you doing water changes or are you not?

PC rainbow is known to get more of the green base/colors in lower light. Up higher it gets all red and yellow. Just my opinion, which doesn’t matter. Maybe try your dosing and see if anything turns around.

 

[cgcobalt]

My money would be on your lighting more than a trace element issue, how often are you doing water changes or are you not?

PC rainbow is known to get more of the green base/colors in lower light. Up higher it gets all red and yellow. Just my opinion, which doesn’t matter. Maybe try your dosing and see if anything turns around.

Gotcha, because tbh i also lean towards the lighting issue.

I do weekly wc, never missed since setup. Like near 10% for every wc.

I'll add another led bar , and see how it goes then.

 

[SeaDweller]

Gotcha, because tbh i also lean towards the lighting issue.

I do weekly wc, never missed since setup. Like near 10% for every wc.

I'll add another led bar , and see how it goes then.

I don’t think you need to add more per se, but maybe increase the white spectrum on your led fixture, and for longer. You have a max of 4 hours of white with an hour or so of ramp up/down. You may want 6 hours of white, and maybe white intensity higher than the 25-40% you’re running. When I was running led I hated guessing what was right, and eventually ran all the channels at 100% for 8+ hours. Growth and colors exploded. I even ran 4 6500k T5 with 4 4’ reefbreeders for even more daylight spectrum to maintain the growth and color.

I don’t think you need to add another one, just adjust your spectrum for a more daylight temp, and for longer. Personally, that’s where I’d start.

 

[xabo]

Might be worth a read: https://reefbuilders.com/2008/09/03...il&utm_term=0_023ca91d64-34b70ce5cb-462455457

 

[cgcobalt]

I don’t think you need to add more per se, but maybe increase the white spectrum on your led fixture, and for longer. You have a max of 4 hours of white with an hour or so of ramp up/down. You may want 6 hours of white, and maybe white intensity higher than the 25-40% you’re running. When I was running led I hated guessing what was right, and eventually ran all the channels at 100% for 8+ hours. Growth and colors exploded. I even ran 4 6500k T5 with 4 4’ reefbreeders for even more daylight spectrum to maintain the growth and color.

I don’t think you need to add another one, just adjust your spectrum for a more daylight temp, and for longer. Personally, that’s where I’d start.

Gotcha, just for confirmation. When u say 100% on all channels, that means 100% on red , green , warm white and also cool white channel ?

 

[billyocean]

I don’t think you need to add more per se, but maybe increase the white spectrum on your led fixture, and for longer. You have a max of 4 hours of white with an hour or so of ramp up/down. You may want 6 hours of white, and maybe white intensity higher than the 25-40% you’re running. When I was running led I hated guessing what was right, and eventually ran all the channels at 100% for 8+ hours. Growth and colors exploded. I even ran 4 6500k T5 with 4 4’ reefbreeders for even more daylight spectrum to maintain the growth and color.

I don’t think you need to add another one, just adjust your spectrum for a more daylight temp, and for longer. Personally, that’s where I’d start.

From what I'm seeing it's a 16 hour lighting schedule. Unless it's a typo 8am-12am

 

[SeaDweller]

From what I'm seeing it's a 16 hour lighting schedule. Unless it's a typo 8am-12am

His overall lighting schedule is long but that max for white is at most 4 hours with a ramp up and down. For me, when I was running LEDs that wasn’t enough and I was running a lot of LEDs. Once I gave more of daylight spectrum (more white LEDs) and eventually a longer daylight photoperiod, corals improved and thrived. Just my own experience with LEDs.

People are successful with LEDs, myself included before. However, in my experience with LEDs and greening it was usually due to a lack of the daylight spectrum.

I like blues like any other guy, but corals need daylight spectrum to thrive, imo. I don’t know the fixture he’s using, but perhaps the daylight it’s providing, given his photoperiod isn’t enough. Again, I’m probably wrong.

 

[SeaDweller]

Gotcha, just for confirmation. When u say 100% on all channels, that means 100% on red , green , warm white and also cool white channel ?

Again, this is just my opinion, so just take another reefer’s opinion with a grain of salt.

When I ran LEDs. I just said fugg it. There’s too much control and confusion. Tweaking this and that, ramping this and that. The best tanks I’ve ever seen were very simple, whether it be T5 or MH or LED in terms of lighting. So when I stopped tweaking the lights/ratios and ramping and went to straight on/off, it made life simpler and things looked better, once they adapted and grew in. I had a couple of hours of straight blue then 100% on all channels for 8 hours and then a straight to 0% on all channels except the blues and purple, for a few more hours for me to enjoy at night.

Again, this worked for ME and I knew of other known reefers on here, who used the same fixtures, that ran 100%. If you don’t like this for your lights, I’d suggest stretching your daylight photoperiod a couple more hours to see if the greening improves. Or, like you think… could just be your traces but if you’re doing WC, I’d think you’re replenishing enough, imo.

 

[cgcobalt]

Again, this is just my opinion, so just take another reefer’s opinion with a grain of salt.

When I ran LEDs. I just said fugg it. There’s too much control and confusion. Tweaking this and that, ramping this and that. The best tanks I’ve ever seen were very simple, whether it be T5 or MH or LED in terms of lighting. So when I stopped tweaking the lights/ratios and ramping and went to straight on/off, it made life simpler and things looked better, once they adapted and grew in. I had a couple of hours of straight blue then 100% on all channels for 8 hours and then a straight to 0% on all channels except the blues and purple, for a few more hours for me to enjoy at night.

Again, this worked for ME and I knew of other known reefers on here, who used the same fixtures, that ran 100%. If you don’t like this for your lights, I’d suggest stretching your daylight photoperiod a couple more hours to see if the greening improves. Or, like you think… could just be your traces but if you’re doing WC, I’d think you’re replenishing enough, imo.

So i just went yolo few hours ago, and set everything on 100%. Put the timer for 13 hours, with 2 hours ramp up and down.

In like 30 minutes later, all the sps just show insane polyp extension. I never saw they extended to such length , when on photoperiod. It's the first time ever.

When i thought ( back then ) , on daytime / photoperiod , sps will retract their polyps if the light really strong. But the sps acting vice versa.

The previous setting, which for sure dimmer compare to what u suggest, the polyp extension not as good as now.

Man.. idk what's happening, and i dont know if i should rejoice the moment or not lol.

 

[SeaDweller]

So i just went yolo few hours ago, and set everything on 100%. Put the timer for 13 hours, with 2 hours ramp up and down.

In like 30 minutes later, all the sps just show insane polyp extension. I never saw they extended to such length , when on photoperiod. It's the first time ever.

When i thought ( back then ) , on daytime / photoperiod , sps will retract their polyps if the light really strong. But the sps acting vice versa.

The previous setting, which for sure dimmer compare to what u suggest, the polyp extension not as good as now.

Man.. idk what's happening, and i dont know if i should rejoice the moment or not lol.

Some will tell you PE doesn’t mean anything, but most seasoned hobbyists feel PE indicates good coral health and happiness.

I hope you get this figured out, and it’s one reason I switched away from all LEDs with so much controllability.

 

[C. Eymann]

You are using an blended and chelated additive that was made for horticulture both hydroponic and soil applications, not reef aquariums.

Are other reefers in you corner of the world using this for reef aquariums?

Also you have to be careful about how chelated trace elements made for soil/ freshwater hydroponic systems may interact with saltwater, also esp if you are using a UVC sterilizer, UVC can interfere with them and instead of the chelated elements being / having time release bioavailability, it all becomes bioavailable immediately which can be an issue.
Even though many forms of Iron has poor solubility in seawater/ precipitates out readily, losing color and having corals turn green is sometimes correlated with too high iron levels.

Stop using that stuff until you get results back from an ICP test to be sure there is no accumulation of those elements.


Just my .02

 

[cgcobalt]

You are using an blended and chelated additive that was made for horticulture both hydroponic and soil applications, not reef aquariums.

Are other reefers in you corner of the world using this for reef aquariums?

Also you have to be careful about how chelated trace elements made for soil/ freshwater hydroponic systems may interact with saltwater, also esp if you are using a UVC sterilizer, UVC can interfere with them and instead of the chelated elements being / having time release bioavailability, it all becomes bioavailable immediately which can be an issue.
Even though many forms of Iron has poor solubility in seawater/ precipitates out readily, losing color and having corals turn green is sometimes correlated with too high iron levels.

Stop using that stuff until you get results back from an ICP test to be sure there is no accumulation of those elements.


Just my .02

Gotcha, i'll put them to stop and monitor for now