I've been in this hobby for a year now and I just cant seem to make it work. I can you the communities advice, as I'm clearly doing something wrong.

[rennjidk]

Except in a 3 month old tank

And? Surely you have some data or insight other than the blanket statement of "tanks too young" which hasn't yet been made available to the reefing community. Please share so that we can all learn.

 

[TokenReefer]

Comon. There's thread after thread with info supporting the "tank is too young theory". Is there any supporting yours? Not to start a fight but seriously I want to read about it

 

[Northwest_Scapes_]

Comon. There's thread after thread with info supporting the "tank is too young theory". Is there any supporting yours? Not to start a fight but seriously I want to read about it

Yeah I think it's a lost cause for OP. Being wayyy to stubborn and coming up with bogus claims even though by page 2 there's been a ton of suggestions and solutions that they don't want to take.

 

[rennjidk]

Yeah I think it's a lost cause for OP. Being wayyy to stubborn and coming up with bogus claims even though by page 2 there's been a ton of suggestions and solutions that they don't want to take.

Except I did and repeated it for 2 more pages. I'm sorry if it's not the suggestion that you agree with, but it is the only one thus far founded in concrete scientific evidence, so there's that...

 

[TokenReefer]

Dangit we all want magical shortcuts and maybe with extreme experience and understanding of chemistry and biology and how they actually interact in a closed loop box of water you can get there but to push back against known successful methods to skip to an advanced method most perhaps aim to get to someday down the road when things admittedly are not working is beyond me

 

[jmichaelh7]

I’m 4 years in and still do water changes. I think it’s safe to say we can close this thread . The op shall go back to the basics. This hobby is not to be over complicated at all

 

[92Miata]

Comon. There's thread after thread with info supporting the "tank is too young theory". Is there any supporting yours? Not to start a fight but seriously I want to read about it

There's also thread after thread of people who know what they're doing setting up new tanks, cycling them in days, and throwing in acropora almost immediately, and having success.


Which means "too young" isn't actually the problem in the tanks you're talking about, and saying it is more about just ending discussion.


So rather than just trying to end the discussion, maybe participate in a meaningful way. What do you thing about a "too young" tank is actually the problem?

 

[rennjidk]

There's also thread after thread of people who know what they're doing setting up new tanks, cycling them in days, and throwing in acropora almost immediately, and having success.


Which means "too young" isn't actually the problem in the tanks you're talking about, and saying it is more about just ending discussion.


So rather than just trying to end the discussion, maybe participate in a meaningful way. What do you thing about a "too young" tank is actually the problem?

That was very much my point, though much better articulated, so thank you for that. I've given up. They seem to know everything and anyone who challenges that is just stubborn or inexperienced.

 

[TokenReefer]

I'm trying to end the conversation? I was asking for more information on the OP's theory so maybe we could all get on the same page and come at it from a different angle. Also, surely there are people that setup tanks from day one as you've suggested; the op stated he is failing at this method... I thought the point was to help someone be successful. I did not know the point was to simply make the idea someone has work despite it not (admittedly)

 

[rennjidk]

I thought the point was to help someone be successful. I did not know the point was to simply make the idea someone has work despite it not (admittedly)

I never said that my idea (and for the record, it's not my idea) wasn't working. I said that my individual application of the idea was not working. I found faults in my application and adjusted. Others, like yourself, found this unsatisfactory. It's not complicated.

 

[TokenReefer]

I think you just not stating your initial intentions (methods) with the tank right off the bat got people rolling on a optimal approach and as you pushed back against that it made no sense...to me at least...cuz we don't know you and what you're skills are and trying to accomplish...then it got out of hand perhaps. I re-read and found you mention it on page 2. I truly do hope it works for you and perhaps down the road this is something I will try myself. Lots of good info on this thread; both for and against your method

 

[xCry0x]

As someone who has killed a lot of corals over the years.

Your nutrients are low, which I'm sure you know since you are dosing.

But they are still low, and as others have commented, you are in a situation where all the other stuff you are doing is competing for the small amount of nutrients.

Cut your skimmer back, or remove/raise the cup and you should see nutrient levels rise. Cut out any gfo/purigen/whatever other phosphate remover you might have.

That alone should make your LPS happier.

My personal experience is I've never killed coral from too much nitrate and phosphate, and have killed a ton from not enough. Killed two 12" across chalices in addition to a pile of other lps from trying to reduce nutrients to fight back algae.

 

[Lavey29]

And? Surely you have some data or insight other than the blanket statement of "tanks too young" which hasn't yet been made available to the reefing community. Please share so that we can all learn.

Nah, it's obvious you have everything under control and are destined for success in the hobby. Please keep us updated with your interesting approach to maintaining a 3 month tank with 38 corals.

 

[Roatan Reef]

sorry but once I saw "tank is 3 months old", it becomes obvious that impatience is the only real problem.

In 3 short months, the tank was cycled, 6 fish have been added, and your dosing 4 or 5 different things, thats a lot of changes for your tank to go through in 3 months. It's not a stable environement for corals, thats why a lot of people suggest waiting several months before adding corals.

It looks like your tank is just starting the ugly phase, so it will go through changes for a couple more months.

Stability takes time.

Correect... it takes 6 to 8 months to really cycle. I thought my tank was good also 3 months into setup...WRONG!

I lost fish and coral....then all of a sudden 8 months in...Coral took off, fish doing great , crystal clear water....etc.

You should let your tank go for 4 months at least...no coral , Maybe a fish or 2...that's it!

 

[DIFish]

I'm really struggling to keep corals alive, and though I've followed all the steps to success, everything seems to just slowly die. I'll post as much relevant information as I can starting with my reef journal:

The tank is 3 months old Nuvo 30L (30g) and started completely sterile with the exception of Ocean Direct sand and Aqua Forest reef mud. Salinity has been kept consistent at 34.5ppt using 2 different test methods and a Tunze ATO. Temperature is a constant 77.1F. PH is 7.9. The sump consists of filter floss pads, a chaeto fuge on 8 hours at night, Rox 0.8 carbon, and Purigen. Lighting is provided by 2 AI Primes running 11 hours a day (with 4 hours total ramp) at 8" off the water tuned to UV80/V80/RB72/B100/R10/G10/W10 which should be giving around 100 par based on other people's testing.

Dosing:
3ml All for Reef daily
3ml Cheato Gro weekly
2ml AB+ daily
5ml Microbactor 7 & Clean weekly
No3 and PO4 as needed

Feeding is a blend of Reef Frenzy Nano, Reef Roids, AB+, and Frozen Mysis in homemade cubes.

Source water is RODI with tested TDS 0.0 using 2 different meters. Salt is IO Reef Crystals. I do a 10% water change monthly.

Stocking: 2 Clowns, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Yellow Watchman Goby and Tiger PIstol Shrimp, 1 Banngai Cardinal, 1 Peppermint shrimp, 10 Astrea Turbo, 30 Dwarf Ceriths, 4 Red Legs, 10 Blue legs, 1 Trochus, 10 Nassarius.

I'm positive I'm not introducing anything into the tank. I always wear gloves and keep my hands out as much as possible. So far I've had 1 hammer die, 3 others that are very unhappy, acans receding, zoas constantly stressed/changing color/partially open, and 4 dead gonies.

I've convinced myself that I need more flow despite running 900gph through the return with 1/2" RFG's. I've ordered 2 600gph powerheads to combat this and I also made a video of the normal flow here:



That's about all I can think to add at this point. Any Ideas?

Hey! I am in a very similar boat to you as far as tank age, corals, fish, and maitnence goals. Am also trying to “jump start” my tank and am having decent success so far with a slightly different approach, so I don’t think what you are going for is impossible, or even that difficult to do. Everyone here has given really solid advice already, but I will toss mine in from the point of view as somebody who is actively trying the same things.

Dosing- AFR is less stable on newer tanks. I would add Kalkwasser to your dosing schedule and try to replace as much of your ATO water with it as possible. You can still avoid water changes by using Kalkwasser and AFR, but try Kalkwasser as your main one until you need more AFR. Also would turn off your refugium and stop dosing anything else (microbacter 7 is fine weekly I do it too). Your corals need nutrition and you are stripping the tank hard. This way you will have to dose less nitrate and phosphate, if any. Also ditch the purigen for now. Carbon is fine but purigen is also not needed this early.
Lighting- Is that 100 par on the bottom of the tank? At LPS height? I would sit my LPS a little higher around 150, but more of a personal preference(Mine are around 250) 7 Hours max light and 4 hour ramp seems fine and is similar to what I run, but from what I have seen higher light time and par requires higher nutrients which you do not currently have.
Flow- I think the decision to purchase additional wavemakers is good. High flow of 40+ can help solve a ton of issues and deliver more to the corals.

Other than that I think you are looking good. Let your tank get a little more nutrients, chill on the excess dosing, and I am confident most of these coral deaths can be avoided. Keeping it simple seems to be the best way for just about every situation and is working great for me so I hope it works for you too.

 

[Spare time]

I'm really struggling to keep corals alive, and though I've followed all the steps to success, everything seems to just slowly die. I'll post as much relevant information as I can starting with my reef journal:

The tank is 3 months old Nuvo 30L (30g) and started completely sterile with the exception of Ocean Direct sand and Aqua Forest reef mud. Salinity has been kept consistent at 34.5ppt using 2 different test methods and a Tunze ATO. Temperature is a constant 77.1F. PH is 7.9. The sump consists of filter floss pads, a chaeto fuge on 8 hours at night, Rox 0.8 carbon, and Purigen. Lighting is provided by 2 AI Primes running 11 hours a day (with 4 hours total ramp) at 8" off the water tuned to UV80/V80/RB72/B100/R10/G10/W10 which should be giving around 100 par based on other people's testing.

Dosing:
3ml All for Reef daily
3ml Cheato Gro weekly
2ml AB+ daily
5ml Microbactor 7 & Clean weekly
No3 and PO4 as needed

Feeding is a blend of Reef Frenzy Nano, Reef Roids, AB+, and Frozen Mysis in homemade cubes.

Source water is RODI with tested TDS 0.0 using 2 different meters. Salt is IO Reef Crystals. I do a 10% water change monthly.

Stocking: 2 Clowns, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Yellow Watchman Goby and Tiger PIstol Shrimp, 1 Banngai Cardinal, 1 Peppermint shrimp, 10 Astrea Turbo, 30 Dwarf Ceriths, 4 Red Legs, 10 Blue legs, 1 Trochus, 10 Nassarius.

I'm positive I'm not introducing anything into the tank. I always wear gloves and keep my hands out as much as possible. So far I've had 1 hammer die, 3 others that are very unhappy, acans receding, zoas constantly stressed/changing color/partially open, and 4 dead gonies.

I've convinced myself that I need more flow despite running 900gph through the return with 1/2" RFG's. I've ordered 2 600gph powerheads to combat this and I also made a video of the normal flow here:



That's about all I can think to add at this point. Any Ideas?

Stop dosing the bacteria. They are likely starving the coral Dramatically up the reef energy. You have basically 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate. It has nothing to do with the magical specter of diversity or anything like that (of which is becoming quite the trendy superstitious belief in the hobby that nothing in a tank can live if there isn't some magical diversity).

 

[Sump Crab]

Real Liverock is the easiest way to a successful reef with the least amount of maintenance.

 

[EugeneVan]

Just curious...is anyone out there starting out right out of the gate doing no water changes successfully? If so... I want in!

I am follow too... Whoever discover that method will be the richest man/woman in the world

 

[EugeneVan]

There's also thread after thread of people who know what they're doing setting up new tanks, cycling them in days, and throwing in acropora almost immediately, and having success.


Which means "too young" isn't actually the problem in the tanks you're talking about, and saying it is more about just ending discussion.


So rather than just trying to end the discussion, maybe participate in a meaningful way. What do you thing about a "too young" tank is actually the problem?

There is nothting wrong with the tank is too young if you know what you are doing. But there is a huge problem with putting 38 corals into a 30 gal tank which is only 3 months old. You see the different ?

 

[las]

Lots of threads out there to learn stuff. This thread is a waste of peoples energy