How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

[brandon429]

who today has a false stuck cycle thread we can fix last month





there are no stuck cycles on this entire board. Try and post here today any example from any tank at reef2reef that isn’t ready to begin.

who’s seeking disease preps early on from post #1 in our thread here


prediction for any potential stuck cycle posts today: not a seneye cycle.


when I say ready above, that specifically means if we stopped using non digital kits running their thread, and hooked up a seneye instead, the fear would end and the readiness would be apparent.



since seneye isn’t available for everyone we will use the other objective evaluations to referee their tank instead of cheap test kits. If they want to proof their cycle using the cheap kits, we can. They can run the calibration testing from post #1 link #1 in this thread.


I bet every tank on this site has already dosed and fed bottle bac and waited longer for deposition than Dr Reefs bottle bac study showed it takes for their brand of bacteria.

if you see doubt, reactive purchases, false stuck cycle reaction purchases, no clear start date then you’re seeing a Red Sea cycle or an api cycle, you’re not reading a seneye cycle. That’s the prediction in place. Scan down page one here of the new tanks forum, do you see any false stuck cycle threads?

 

[Reef craze]

So I started my cycle on October 2nd 2021 now 10 days into my fishless cycle and my tests are all over the place. Must be the api test kit. I added 2ppm ammonia when dr Tim’s card said added my only and only bacteria. attached Photo of test results. Anyone have any ideas what’s going on. Never seen nitrite jump overnight from 2ppm to 5ppm with no ammonia then show ammonia overnight from 0

 

[brandon429]

inserting the work thread where we fixed up your cycle, thanks for posting. once you have fish in the tank above post back pics we track out the cycle completion day by day where animals act normal and the water stays clear. the test kits may never line up we show on page 1 showing test kit comparisons in the second post. those are non digital kits above so the real numbers are wildly different once tested and reported on digital gear.

High nitrites during cycle

That being the case, when would you expect my nitrates to come down? Over the course of many water changes? With stability of the new eco balance? Your nitrate is likely just a false reading based on the nitrite. With some kits, 1 ppm nitrite will read as 100 ppm nitrate. That is just...

www.reef2reef.com

the start date for this tank is now/recently. Its day ten on a Dr. Tim's cycle, the most commonly used bac here always ready by day ten, and the system has ample surface area and dilution all set. the large water change step isn't even needed since no 5x doses of ammonia were given.

this tanks submersion time meets the ammonia drop line from a cycling chart, and we ignore the nitrite and nitrate...all set. cycle done, and if testing on seneye you'd read in the hundredths or thousandths ppm nh3 which is the levels for completed cycles. the api may never show that, or it may show it, no way to tell. the bottle bac used has been well-tracked to this date of compliance, we'd go off that.

 

[brandon429]

One other additional post summary for the system above, glad to have the new tank to watch mature over time


the way your cycle assessment here differs from other common cycle techniques is start date assignment. there aren't any cycling posts on the web that define before the tank is built what the allowed bioload carry date will be. they all set open ended wait times.

but pet stores don't have open ended wait times for stock they receive daily, it has to go into systems ready to carry the new loading or lose old loading without recycling. some stock remains for months, they dont all sell immediately. I've seen brain corals completely grown into the frag tray at lfs several times before/permanent residents by then.

LFS's practice controlled cycling daily. the don't have open ended ready dates for bioload carry.


Reef conventions, for thirty years, all get rows of tanks to start on time/Friday and nobody fails to get a full blown reef worth twenty grand fully ready, and it'll run as long as you want though it was an instant planned start. reef conventions don't adhere to normal cycling protocols. they set a start date goal, email it out then its met.


we are testing the science here that allows for precision control of start dates and we aim the concerns in the direction of fish disease, since that forum above all others on this site has 10x the most fish disease loss. the new cyclers/new tanks forum has hardly any.


BRS advises a four month wait for dry rocks starts, to allow for some uglies phasing control before heavy stocking, this is fine if anyone wants to do the wait but if we watch total reef control in action here below, look how he simply forced the reef to comply even during the uglies phase and is now ready for a graduating upgrade.

Build Thread - My SPS Waterbox Peninsula Mini 15

Hi all. Long time member (I think I joined right around when R2R started or took off years ago) but got out of the hobby for about 6 years and now I am back! I don't see many build threads for the PM 15 (mostly the 25) so thought I'd share my journey here. This post will be a bit behind...

www.reef2reef.com

the timing for your start date comes from your seen ammonia drop, the cycling chart one, the # of days tank has had water, and Dr Reefs bottle bac thread which sets timing dates for the major brands of bacteria along with the seneye studies for bottle bac cycles.

 

[Reef craze]

Got my quarantine set up now guys thank you for all your help

 

[brandon429]

Reef craze thank you for posting the complete method of updated cycling science using your setup. It’s a great step you did there for quarantine observation before fish go into display.

nobody says we have to dump all kinds of meds in there, some use the quarantine to house fish purely for observation to ensure symptoms are missing before adding into main tank. Anything is better than direct-to-display which is the current method the hobby uses, well done and thank you for adding relevant examples to our unique cycling thread.

 

[SuthernReefer]

I'm glad I found this thread, as it's put me at ease. I have a 75 gallon tank with Marco rock and caribsea special grade sand/dry rock and sand.
Filed tank with RODI water on Oct.11th.

Added API quick start around 2am on Oct.14th

Added 7 coral frags and a Borneman Anemone around 11 am, also on Oct.14th.

Water parameters:
Temp 76°
Salinity 1.024
PH 8.0
Alk 8
Cal 440
Ammonia 0.50
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I have tested 3 times over the past 5 days with API test kit and ammonia has stayed at 0.50, with nitrites and nitrate staying at 0. I plan to wait a few more days (for a total of 10 days) and see if I have any movements. Will report back with results around Sunday.

Question: Should my ammonia be moving up or is this sufficient enough to cycle?

I have a bottle of bio spira on hand if needed

Plan to do a 10% water change on day 14

Edited to say-
I would also like to add, that all coral (Toadstool, Duncan, Stylophora, Ron Burgundy Favia, Jack O'lantern Leptoseris, Golden Leptoseris, and StarScream Zoas) seem happy with the exception of the Borneman Anemone. I can't find much info on this species, but it stays closed up a lot and it's mouth formed a bubble a few days ago, but has since returned to normal. Maybe it's still adjusting from shipping and a new tank or it simply don't like something. Tank is currently acclimating under 2 Radion Blue G5s and feeding reef roids. I did dose 10ml of pH enhancer to slightly raise my ph 0.2 parts. And have dosed 10ml of Kent's Coral-Vite.

 

[brandon429]

That’s quite an advanced speed cycle compared to most, reefers typically use cured rocks for that approach however this way is ok because bottle bac is good, legitimate for quick starts. The .5 total ammonia will for sure facilitate the cycle there is no spike needed only wait time and after TAN conversion from page one post #1 it’s reporting .05 which means on digital kits itd be even lower- that’s why the frags seem normal. Certainly don’t dose more ammonia let it all ride.

I would add some of the biospira now only because it’s been used and studied so much compared to quick start. It’s reliable backup then your tank can handle fish too on day ten total as long as you used typical degrees of rocks and sand in the setup, attachment point surface area.


the specific start date here is whatever date the bottle bac was added, these mixes carry bioload instantly as seen in the example link below of a day one quick start using dry rocks and biospira. Yours is a comparative bioload.


most would be alarmed at the .5/.05 report with animals in tow but I’m not for these reasons: api shows this same report level on thousands of matured reefs along with .25, it’s what api usually reports on living systems. On page one post #2 first link we have a lead example on how api shows high levels while seneye shows safe levels after adding bottle bac. post a full tank pic pls when you can later after lights come on we always look for the surface area details as we track quick cycles and tie in the overall results coming up


heres Ike’s very similar quick start setup which worked just fine using the plan you have, thanks for posting!

Bio-spira works great

I just started a new tank a little over a week ago. I started with all dry rock and new sand. I added a bottle of Bio-Spira and put fish and coral the same day. Never saw any ammonia and fish and coral seem healthy.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[zaidalin79]

I just wondered if my situation was different because it wasn't NEW per se but crashed and started with high ammonia, not new water.

I had a tank that I admittedly overstocked but was managing with bacteria and prime and everyone was doing well - until I swapped out to a new sump and while I did move over sponges and rock from old sump (and the rock and sand in the tank stayed) I did not move over the old blue plastic bio balls and the new sump has socks. The next morning all but three fish were dead. I quickly moved the remaining survivors to a bucket and have been giving them fresh salt water every day and they are doing fine and eating. I was at first concerned about some sort of contaminant - I used GE1 on the sump and let it cure over a week. But just in case I added new carbon and a toxin remover the lfs sold me.

All my levels were off the chart then in the tank, so I assume I killed off the bacteria I had going. I added a few bottles of turbostart 900 and began testing and doing fritz 9 and stability daily. I know it is overkill but I am trying to get fish ready for a lionfish I have already on the way so he doesn't have to go in a bucket too.

My ammonia dropped day before yesterday and I have brown algae starting on the rocks, but nitrate and nitrite are still high. (I know - don't yell at me for mentioning the n word.) I called Fritz and they told me to do a water change and add food. I did about a 25 gallon change (75 gallon tank + sump) that day and another yesterday (I only have a 25 gallon mixing station so I cannot do a larger one). Added more bacteria. and I added food. I am about to test again, but from reading your recommendations it sounds like I should be ok?

There are ghost shrimp in there still alive from before the crash (they were food, but apparently lucky.) I also threw a couple hermits I had relegated to my main tank sump for killing roommates in there as well and they are both still alive as well. I just assumed the ammonia/etc. affected them differently.

I have a damsel I planned to use as a canary first - I didn't want to throw my puffers in there and lose them after all this work to keep them alive. Should I go ahead and add the damsel and see if he goes belly up? Then wait another day or two before adding my puffer? Or do you think I am ok to add them back in now? The crash happened last Saturday so it has been about 5 days.

 

[brandon429]

The entire first paragraph in your description isn't accurate, am not being mean but I must keep a clean slate here in this thread to keep it far far apart from all other cycling threads. if you know exactly where the analysis went wrong and the reaction dosing began, you'll appreciate the call because your reef will work better. its to help not to criticize.

The number one thing this thread provides is a solid start date for any cycle. That means after assessment, we won't need to dose Prime or bottle bac again because bottle bac is solely for cycling, and I don't recommend ever using Prime in a reef tank setup.



reef filters never do anything out of pattern, they're all in-pattern, yours isn't an outlier you are reacting to Prime-induced misreads. pls reference page one, post one here on this thread.

relocating any portion of tank work can cause upwelling of waste, deaths having nothing to do with ammonia control and much more likely common disease expression from skipping fallow and quarantine. we never, ever have to dose prime and bacteria repeatedly in reefing per first post in the thread

anyone who skips fallow and qt and adds mixed pet store fish should expect very high loss rates a few months after. some make it out ok, say 5%. 95% are posting daily losses in the fish disease forum, check out their mixed pet store fish outcomes on any day its always very busy.

this is so important to know. you never had a system that was short on surface area, requiring those intercepts, you had only non seneye testing and no TAN conversion from the tests being used to drive those actions. the test kit directions directly show how to report nh3, and few will do that they'll report the freshwater feedback portion/total ammonia which is ten times higher. they'll react to that reading by dosing items over and over, further driving misreads.

the tank was a full chemical soup of dosers, portions of it recently relocated/reworked, and am assuming no disease protocol set in place at all. in first post on our thread we detail how those setup details really impact how we manage the biofilter.

your question seems to be about maximum loading in the current tank and if it can take fish, we can quickly answer that with a tank pic/let's see how much rock you have in the scape water flow contact area.

Highlights from your post compared to our 20 pages:
-non digital testing drives all wrong actions. digital testing stops that, buy a seneye.
-not factoring TAN conversion right off the non digital ammonia test kit instructions, and reporting nh4 and taking reaction to nh4 which we don't factor in reefing, we only want to know nh3 and if it dropped once after day ten of the setup, drives most incorrect responses when biofilter efficiency is in question
-at no time after a cycle do we add prime, or dose bottle bac for cycling, no reef needs these as upkeep and Prime specifically causes false readings for nitrite and ammonia which drives the feedback cycle of reaction dosing.
-cease testing for ammonia and nitrite in all reefs, after the cycle. you don't actually need a seneye, its so you can see via digital readout how much ammonia actually is controlled, it will save your future animals to be able to predict ammonia control without actually having to test for it.

your tank needs a 90% water change matching temp and salinity, stat, de-soup it.

then post a full tank shot and I'll fix your cycle up such that it will never be doubted again and you will have solid control over adding or subtracting fish/bioload in general based on your ratios shown in the picture.

 

[zaidalin79]

The entire first paragraph in your description isn't accurate, am not being mean but I must keep a clean slate here in this thread to keep it far far apart from all other cycling threads. if you know exactly where the analysis went wrong and the reaction dosing began, you'll appreciate the call because your reef will work better. its to help not to criticize.

The number one thing this thread provides is a solid start date for any cycle. That means after assessment, we won't need to dose Prime or bottle bac again because bottle bac is solely for cycling, and I don't recommend ever using Prime in a reef tank setup.



reef filters never do anything out of pattern, they're all in-pattern, yours isn't an outlier you are reacting to Prime-induced misreads. pls reference page one, post one here on this thread.

relocating any portion of tank work can cause upwelling of waste, deaths having nothing to do with ammonia control and much more likely common disease expression from skipping fallow and quarantine. we never, ever have to dose prime and bacteria repeatedly in reefing per first post in the thread

anyone who skips fallow and qt and adds mixed pet store fish should expect very high loss rates a few months after. some make it out ok, say 5%. 95% are posting daily losses in the fish disease forum, check out their mixed pet store fish outcomes on any day its always very busy.

this is so important to know. you never had a system that was short on surface area, requiring those intercepts, you had only non seneye testing and no TAN conversion from the tests being used to drive those actions. the test kit directions directly show how to report nh3, and few will do that they'll report the freshwater feedback portion/total ammonia which is ten times higher. they'll react to that reading by dosing items over and over, further driving misreads.

the tank was a full chemical soup of dosers, portions of it recently relocated/reworked, and am assuming no disease protocol set in place at all. in first post on our thread we detail how those setup details really impact how we manage the biofilter.

your question seems to be about maximum loading in the current tank and if it can take fish, we can quickly answer that with a tank pic/let's see how much rock you have in the scape water flow contact area.

Highlights from your post compared to our 20 pages:
-non digital testing drives all wrong actions. digital testing stops that, buy a seneye.
-not factoring TAN conversion right off the non digital ammonia test kit instructions, and reporting nh4 and taking reaction to nh4 which we don't factor in reefing, we only want to know nh3 and if it dropped once after day ten of the setup, drives most incorrect responses when biofilter efficiency is in question
-at no time after a cycle do we add prime, or dose bottle bac for cycling, no reef needs these as upkeep and Prime specifically causes false readings for nitrite and ammonia which drives the feedback cycle of reaction dosing.
-cease testing for ammonia and nitrite in all reefs, after the cycle. you don't actually need a seneye, its so you can see via digital readout how much ammonia actually is controlled, it will save your future animals to be able to predict ammonia control without actually having to test for it.

your tank needs a 90% water change matching temp and salinity, stat, de-soup it.

then post a full tank shot and I'll fix your cycle up such that it will never be doubted again and you will have solid control over adding or subtracting fish/bioload in general based on your ratios shown in the picture.

 

[zaidalin79]

Also - original batch of fish were in there for about a month, no signs of disease or death - just the mass loss the morning after I changed out the sump.

 

[brandon429]

very nice, very very solid clean setup! I like how you've managed it to be algae free, its sharp looking.


here's exactly how your biofilter works. Ill back edit several additions into this analysis it'll take a sec am at work. But your tank is really how folks want to wind up so this analysis will support anyone else running a similar system, thanks for adding those pics.
those are not shabby lights, = $$ nice setup.


-the rock surface area is able to run any bioload the tank can hold. alone, without the sand, with no extra surface area, you're using the standard degree of live rocks and nowadays thousands of tanks exist where literally those # of rocks run the whole setup. our sand rinse thread is fifty pages of us immediately stripping down all sand and bioballs, sumps (the surface area we were once told was required) into just those rocks and we track some jobs on seneye to see the surface area above is enough to manage any bioload in reefing. those rocks don't take on or lose bacteria based on us adding or subtracting surrounding surface area or filtration components; they're simply enough as stand alone filters or we're all welcome to pack in orders of extra surface area too if we are so inclined.

-you will never need to dose bottle bac or prime again, those rocks are cycled and ready.


-if there is no disease protocol in place from page one post #1 then no fish loss can be attributed to the sump removal. it very well may be tied to sump removal, but we cannot know if that's the case as disease emergence is always the first suspect, always. Removing surface area in the sump cannot harm the system, if waste was kicked up from the sump in states of decay then it could, but that system is clean and I can't imagine the sump was in bad shape. here is an example of instant sump/remote deep sandbed surface area substration in a reef tank, we did it cleanly with no clouding. see how the tank was never harmed:

Removing remote deep sand bed

I setup a removable deep sand bed in my sump 9 months ago but now I’d like to remove it to give me more room in the sump. What do you think the impact to tank chemistry might be and how to mitigate any negatives?

www.reef2reef.com

we are allowed to remove surface area, down to rocks alone, and all reefs will proceed on just fine. removing that surface area didn't give us too few bacteria, as all prior training would hold.

-the reason you are free now from all future ammonia and nitrite testing is because those rocks will carry fish you add, and won't lose bacteria if you subtract fish as in running a re fallowing of the tank. they're simply going to work fine and hold their cycle as long as they're wet. this will directly result in you saving cash and reefing with resolve which will save future losses. please update pics as you add life back to the tank using this new no test method. feel free to test for non cycling params: temp, salinity, calcium, alk, pH if you like but be free of ammonia and nitrite concerning from here on out, I give you my word that tank is a sharp biofilter always.

I realize many are still going to test anyway and may not report it that's ok

when you see light green on the test it doesnt mean your filter is broken, it means we expect there to be some total ammonia as ammonia never runs at zero in a reef tank, it means the test is working to show what we want, not what we dont want. TAN conversion from the instructions simply means your dangerous ammonia, nh3, is ten times lower than what you see and in fact it doesn't run zero either, there's always some nh3 in a common reef tank with fish and corals. your test kits aren't meant to discern super low levels. its ok to stop testing because you can see by patterns in this thread we can control and predict ammonia dynamics in any reef tank, start date to finish, having never tested for ammonia a single time. This whole thread is me rejecting offered ammonia levels, vs accepting them.

only seneye owners got the say, and what they posted were the same tank to tank.

 

[Just a Wrasse.]

Great write up!

 

[zaidalin79]

very nice, very very solid clean setup! I like how you've managed it to be algae free, its sharp looking.


here's exactly how your biofilter works. Ill back edit several additions into this analysis it'll take a sec am at work. But your tank is really how folks want to wind up so this analysis will support anyone else running a similar system, thanks for adding those pics.

-the rock surface area is able to run any bioload the tank can hold. alone, without the sand, with no extra surface area, you're using the standard degree of live rocks and nowadays thousands of tanks exist where literally those # of rocks run the whole setup. our sand rinse thread is fifty pages of us immediately stripping down all sand and bioballs, sumps (the surface area we were once told was required) into just those rocks and we track some jobs on seneye to see the surface area above is enough to manage any bioload in reefing. those rocks don't take on or lose bacteria based on us adding or subtracting surrounding surface area or filtration components; they're simply enough as stand alone filters or we're all welcome to pack in orders of extra surface area too if we are so inclined.

-you will never need to dose bottle bac or prime again, those rocks are cycled and ready.


-if there is no disease protocol in place from page one post #1 then no fish loss can be attributed to the sump removal.

Thank you so much for your time - it is so frustrating to try to do your research and get so many differing opinions and information. The fish were observed in qt for two weeks (I understand that is not the recommended timeframe.) I planned to treat in this tank if anything presented which is why I am not planning to add coral/etc. But I understand that is not the right way to go about it and will get something more permanent setup for new additions. I have had some luck with TTM and tend to prefer the less medication route as far as I can tell reading. I am also limiting where I get my fish to sellers that qt at their facility as well. I currently have another tank sitting fallow that is the result of that lesson.

I just question that it had nothing to do with the sump swap out since there were no other changes made, and there was no indication of illness prior and the multiple deaths occurred immediately like that. Plus the ones I removed from the tank into fresh water that were gasping and dying in the tank recovered within a couple hours and still have no sign of illness. I am not arguing with you by any means - you know better than I do - just trying to work out what may have happened.

 

[zaidalin79]

here is an example of instant sump/remote deep sandbed surface area substration in a reef tank, we did it cleanly with no clouding. see how the tank was never harmed:

Removing remote deep sand bed

I setup a removable deep sand bed in my sump 9 months ago but now I’d like to remove it to give me more room in the sump. What do you think the impact to tank chemistry might be and how to mitigate any negatives?

www.reef2reef.com

we are allowed to remove surface area, down to rocks alone, and all reefs will proceed on just fine. removing that surface area didn't give us too few bacteria, as all prior training would hold.

Thank you for this,

 

[zaidalin79]

Ok I will do another water change - can only do another 25 gallons sadly - will stop all additives and put in the damsel first I guess. I am just nervous about my beloved puffer. Maybe I will add back the trigger too with the damsel. I should know fairly quickly if there is still a problem in the tank right? (not necessarily ammonia if that was not ever the issue, but contaminants, etc.)

 

[SuthernReefer]

That’s quite an advanced speed cycle compared to most, reefers typically use cured rocks for that approach however this way is ok because bottle bac is good, legitimate for quick starts. The .5 total ammonia will for sure facilitate the cycle there is no spike needed only wait time and after TAN conversion from page one post #1 it’s reporting .05 which means on digital kits itd be even lower- that’s why the frags seem normal. Certainly don’t dose more ammonia let it all ride.

I would add some of the biospira now only because it’s been used and studied so much compared to quick start. It’s reliable backup then your tank can handle fish too on day ten total as long as you used typical degrees of rocks and sand in the setup, attachment point surface area.


the specific start date here is whatever date the bottle bac was added, these mixes carry bioload instantly as seen in the example link below of a day one quick start using dry rocks and biospira. Yours is a comparative bioload.


most would be alarmed at the .5/.05 report with animals in tow but I’m not for these reasons: api shows this same report level on thousands of matured reefs along with .25, it’s what api usually reports on living systems. On page one post #2 first link we have a lead example on how api shows high levels while seneye shows safe levels after adding bottle bac. post a full tank pic pls when you can later after lights come on we always look for the surface area details as we track quick cycles and tie in the overall results coming up


heres Ike’s very similar quick start setup which worked just fine using the plan you have, thanks for posting!

Bio-spira works great

I just started a new tank a little over a week ago. I started with all dry rock and new sand. I added a bottle of Bio-Spira and put fish and coral the same day. Never saw any ammonia and fish and coral seem healthy.

www.reef2reef.com

Here are some pics. Tested again today out of curiosity. Everything has remained the same. Test colors, green and yellow look a shade darker in the pics, than what they actually are. Still haven't added the bio spira.

Borneman Anemone seems to be adjusting better. I think he just really likes the hole he is in.

Will try to report back Sunday.

 

[brandon429]

That post really helps here, it shows the clear distinction of a happy tank, sensitive corals all open and fine vs closed up tight, and api misreading about conditions. Exactly featured here just the same:

New Cycle - Seneye vs API

Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...

www.reef2reef.com

those tank pics indicate your true ammonia levels, api doesn’t


that distinction you're seeing, API's ability to state foul conditions, locked or stalled cycle, danger, when there's plainly no danger has just about destroyed cycling paradigms but we're here to reverse all that.

millions of dollars in unneeded bottle bac purchases result from the pic above, yet we know every day your tank is awesome, safe, not stalled because updated cycling science handles it all just fine. that type of test misread is exactly what causes a wheel of reactive dosing to follow for months, years in some cases, where only old cycling science and training were found. your reef simply has too much active surface area, your nh3 is specifically in the thousandths ppm were digital testing in place but we don't need digital testing here, that's just what it'd read if we did have one in place.


In your single pic above, you have captured the essence of the false stalled cycle.

How come no macna videos tell us about this? What can they sell us if they did?

how much cash have we required from folks here to unstick their cycles


stalled cycle training is a false sales prop, invented by bottle bac sellers to play up on current conditions in reefing and groupthink models for profit.

 

[SuthernReefer]

That post really helps here, it shows the clear distinction of a happy tank, sensitive corals all open and fine vs closed up tight, and api misreading about conditions. Exactly featured here just the same:

New Cycle - Seneye vs API

Hello All, Have just started to cycle a new DD ReefPro 900. Am using Fritzzyme Fishless food and Turbo Start and am 2 days in. I have dosed twice with Fishless food on the back of the seneye readings which are as follows: But the API result seems to be showing a different story. I`ve seen a...

www.reef2reef.com

those tank pics indicate your true ammonia levels, api doesn’t


that distinction you're seeing, API's ability to state foul conditions, locked or stalled cycle, danger, when there's plainly no danger has just about destroyed cycling paradigms but we're here to reverse all that.

millions of dollars in unneeded bottle bac purchases result from the pic above, yet we know every day your tank is awesome, safe, not stalled because updated cycling science handles it all just fine. that type of test misread is exactly what causes a wheel of reactive dosing to follow for months, years in some cases, where only old cycling science and training were found. your reef simply has too much active surface area, your nh3 is specifically in the thousandths ppm were digital testing in place but we don't need digital testing here, that's just what it'd read if we did have one in place.


In your single pic above, you have captured the essence of the false stalled cycle.

How come no macna videos tell us about this? What can they sell us if they did?

how much cash have we required from folks here to unstick their cycles


stalled cycle training is a false sales prop, invented by bottle bac sellers to play up on current conditions in reefing and groupthink models for profit.

Yeah, I went a little crazy with the aquascape I actually added a few more pieces yesterday that you see towards the middle. I just wanted to be sure I had plenty of surface for coral and security for fish