Got a clam question? We've got you covered right here.

[LivinTheSwreefLife]

I am not new to the hobby in general but have never kept a clam before. I just acclimated my first derasa clam this morning.

What I would like to know is, what are some signs I should be looking out for that indicate the clam isn't happy? I have seen what pinched mantles look like so I know that much and did a close visual inspection for pyramid snails. Is there anything else? For example, I noticed mine had its mouth hanging open (not a giant gaping hole, just like a cm wide or so). For an anemone I know that's not good, but I have no idea what that means for a clam.

Looking forward to reading more about this new addition!

 

[Tahoe61]

An acclimating clam often displays an exaggerated inhalant siphon, this typically resolves in a few day.
A clam not fully expanding routinely during the lighting period is stressed. Clams do move around but if moving frequently and more than a couple inches is problematic. The shell should live up perfectly when the clam closes. Coloration should remain stable, some clams may display large white areas typically found under LEDS with hot spots.
A hobbyist really has to monitor Calcium levels as larger Tridacna become calcium sponges.

Congrats on your new Derasa.

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

If you want to make an adjustment about it orientation then you should try to resolve the issue in first 3 days when the clam not built up much thread and still easy to get some minor adjustment done, after a week I just leave it alone. My Maxima keep getting into the angle that not best for viewing lol and last night I decided to make a final adjustment with some supported rock and getting hard cause it built more thread over 4 days but I managed to adjust its orientation for final time.
Note:
Beneath the sand my tank bottom was reinforced with small layer of flat rocks to prevent my old mantis shrimp break the glass bottom when it digging it cave (I silicone glue it piece by piece) so when my Maxima attached to the bottom it's almost impossible to move it around.

 

[fredjr]

Hi, I received a 4 in Derasa Clam a few days ago. After acclimation, it looked great. However, today it is looking different. The mantle on one side stays a little withdrawn while the other side is fully extended. It doesn't seem like anything is bothering it. I'm not sure if it's too much flow. Also the excurrent siphon stays closed. I have attached a few pictures. Any ideas what's going on?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Hi, I received a 4 in Derasa Clam a few days ago. After acclimation, it looked great. However, today it is looking different. The mantle on one side stays a little withdrawn while the other side is fully extended. It doesn't seem like anything is bothering it. I'm not sure if it's too much flow. Also the excurrent siphon stays closed. I have attached a few pictures. Any ideas what's going on?

Whitch way is the current going.

Both of mine set the excurrent siphon into the current.

It may also be trying to walk.

 

[fredjr]

Whitch way is the current going.

Both of mine set the excurrent siphon into the current.

It may also be trying to walk.

I have a power heads on the left and right and the return pump hitting the front glass. the tank is a red reefer 350

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I have a power heads on the left and right and the return pump hitting the front glass. the tank is a red reefer 350

Got it. But the primary flow on the clam. Where does it come from?
What side of the clam?

 

[fredjr]

Got it. But the primary flow on the clam. Where does it come from?
What side of the clam?

From the return pump

 

[fredjr]

If you want to make an adjustment about it orientation then you should try to resolve the issue in first 3 days when the clam not built up much thread and still easy to get some minor adjustment done, after a week I just leave it alone. My Maxima keep getting into the angle that not best for viewing lol and last night I decided to make a final adjustment with some supported rock and getting hard cause it built more thread over 4 days but I managed to adjust its orientation for final time.
Note:
Beneath the sand my tank bottom was reinforced with small layer of flat rocks to prevent my old mantis shrimp break the glass bottom when it digging it cave (I silicone glue it piece by piece) so when my Maxima attached to the bottom it's almost impossible to move it around.

Got it. But the primary flow on the clam. Where does it come from?
What side of the clam?

The clam gets a direct hit in front of it's shell.

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

The clam gets a direct hit in front of it's shell.

My clams getting the flow from my return line too, but my return hit the glass in upward position then part of the flow will go down ward and toward my clams (indirect hit), my Maxima got the flow from side shell from the front glass and flow from other return line that gentle hit it inhale part.
here is an example of my clams

Note that on the right side is my Maxima and due to it uneven shell part it keep getting into 45 degree orientation so I adjusted it, now the right shell side pacing the front glass and the inhale part will be on my left side pacing toward the torch coral so its getting 2 direction of flow from the front glass (the flow make the mantle move abit in a gentle movement), and other flow from other left return that hit the torch coral then come toward my maxima, even it getting hit both side and it doesn't move anywhere and still fully open. So you might need to adjust your flow if it too strong and make your clam partial close, other than that you should check out for parasite that might bother it.

 

[fredjr]

My clams getting the flow from my return line too, but my return hit the glass in upward position then part of the flow will go down ward and toward my clams (indirect hit), my Maxima got the flow from side shell from the front glass and flow from other return line that gentle hit it inhale part.
here is an example of my clams

Note that on the right side is my Maxima and due to it uneven shell part it keep getting into 45 degree orientation so I adjusted it, now the right shell side pacing the front glass and the inhale part will be on my left side pacing toward the torch coral so its getting 2 direction of flow from the front glass (the flow make the mantle move abit in a gentle movement), and other flow from other left return that hit the torch coral then come toward my maxima, even it getting hit both side and it doesn't move anywhere and still fully open. So you might need to adjust your flow if it too strong and make your clam partial close, other than that you should check out for parasite that might bother it.

I think my clam is trying to turn itself around and position itself like the one in your pic. not like I want it to sit but I will help it out .

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

In this picture, the flow is from right to left and has prettt much always been this way. The Squamosa actually walked itself here.
The hitchhiker climbed up on the squammy and attached itself like this.
I added the derasa with the same orientation and it has not moved.

The very small mussel attached to the zoas on the sand also moved to the same position. The larger flat mussel in the far right I placed.

 

[alex.mccann99]

I always thought you wanted a little bit of Nitrates for Clams.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I always thought you wanted a little bit of Nitrates for Clams.

Honestly I've seen clams in swamp tanks.

I'm the wild they developed photosynthesis due to low available nutrients and dissolved organics and plankton. But yes. They and the zooox need some nitrates.

 

[Ron83]

i have a current usa marine orbit 48" led lighting on a 72 gallon bow front reef...is that light strong enough for a clam??

I have the 48" Current Marine Pro Dual and it is not strong enough for a clam. I added 48" T-5 fixture to supplement and is good to go now.

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

Even I took off my skimmer few weeks ago and my tank pretty much running with very low nitrate or at least not detectable under API test kit and seem like my clams are doing fine despite the Nitrate test result of 0 ppm.
Oddly, I started getting crazy algae bloom both diatom or brown algae (unless I'm ID them wrong) on the sand bed and side wall tank. So I'm doing water change daily and suck out the sand and dump them away, it's gonna take sometime before I get most the sand out of my system.

 

[rkpetersen]

It was mentioned once already in this thread but it bears repeating: If you want to really learn about tridacnas, get and read this book by James Fatheree: https://www.amazon.com/Giant-Clams-Aquarium-James-Fatherree/dp/0978619404

This tome is fantastic. Just a few bits of useful information gleaned from it:

Derasas can tolerate lower light levels than other tridacnas, and are often found at dimmer deeper locations in the wild. They also typically don't deploy byssal threads, and in an aquarium, do well just propped up against a rock.

Healthy croceas will often display with their inhalant siphon wide open for significant lengths of time, and this isn't a sign of illness, unlike other tridacnas. This is also a way to help tell a crocea from a maxima, which are the two hardest species to differentiate from each other. Close inspection of the fringe tentacles around the inhalant siphon is often the best way to readily tell one species from another.

Tridacnas can bleach (lose color), similar to corals, in response to light shock or other stress. Generalized bleaching is more serious then central bleaching, and localized bleaching can occur in healthy clams from time to time.

Don't buy any clam less than ~8 cm in size, it's chances of survival in anything but the perfect environment are poor.

Maximas are the least hardy of all the tridacna species. (Book was published prior to the current Cocos maxima craze, which has yet to prove to be anything more than marketing as far as I can see.)

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

It was mentioned once already in this thread but it bears repeating: If you want to really learn about tridacnas, get and read this book by James Fatheree: https://www.amazon.com/Giant-Clams-Aquarium-James-Fatherree/dp/0978619404

This tome is fantastic. Just a few bits of useful information gleaned from it:

Derasas can tolerate lower light levels than other tridacnas, and are often found at dimmer deeper locations in the wild. They also typically don't deploy byssal threads, and in an aquarium, do well just propped up against a rock.

Healthy croceas will often display with their inhalant siphon wide open for significant lengths of time, and this isn't a sign of illness, unlike other tridacnas. This is also a way to help tell a crocea from a maxima, which are the two hardest species to differentiate from each other. Close inspection of the fringe tentacles around the inhalant siphon is often the best way to readily tell one species from another.

Tridacnas can bleach (lose color), similar to corals, in response to light shock or other stress. Generalized bleaching is more serious then central bleaching, and localized bleaching can occur in healthy clams from time to time.

Don't buy any clam less than ~8 cm in size, it's chances of survival in anything but the perfect environment are poor.

Maximas are the least hardy of all the tridacna species. (Book was published prior to the current Cocos xaxima craze.)

I need that book! I've been eye balling it for years!

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

The New Book cost 10x times higher than my clams...
For sure it's neat to own the book but I think I'm doing fine with advises from experiences clams keepers here I know I'm sound cheap but I don't tend to buy book and done reading in few hours and it will sit somewhere in my house collecting dust

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The New Book cost 10x times higher than my clams...
For sure it's neat to own the book but I think I'm doing fine with advises from experiences clams keepers here I know I'm sound cheap but I don't tend to buy book and done reading in few hours and it will sit somewhere in my house collecting dust

Haha. You and me both!
Defiantly google James Fatherree Advanced Aquarist clams.
You will love those articles!