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Hi,
Been following this thread for awhile. Haven't been able to read all 89 pages so apologies if this has been mentioned before.
I first had a dinoflagellate outbreak in March after my NO3 and PO4 hit zero. I tried blackouts, dino-x, and vibrant all with limited success. Shortly after, I got ich and moved all my fish to quarantine. The tank lay fallow for 76 days and it was at this point that I started dosing NO3 (spectracide) to keep the nutrients up and the dino just slowly just vanished without doing anything else. When I re-introduced my fish last month, I stopped NO3 dosing as I thought that all the fish waste being produced would be fine in keeping up nutrient levels. However when I checked I found I was at 0 NO3 and 0 PO4, and the dinos came back with a vengeance. They are now all over the sand and rocks. I have since restarted dosing No3 and have gotten my level up to around 5. PO4 still looks close to zero but its hard to tell with the salifert kit. I've picked up some Brightwell Neophos as well as a Hanna ultra low range phosphorus checker as well so I can fine tune adding PO4 back into the system. Is there a specific NO3/PO4 number I should be looking for? Also I just picked up a kid's microscope to try and ID my dinos. Any ideas?
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Sorry for the shaky cam quality, hard to do on a cell phone.
Thanks,
John
Here is my thread with great info on how to beat Chrysophytes. I will say, when you beat them you better be ready for cyano and dinos. Something else will need to fill the void. I'd almost rather have chrysophytes back then to have gotten rid of them and be fighting dinos.Looks like there was already a thread on it!
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...fy-treat-and-remove-it-from-your-tank.299585/
So dosing KNO3 , check , been doing that for color anyway.
Manual removal , check been doing that .
Lights out period? Hmmm. Seems counterintuitive as we want other algae’s to compete with it . Your thoughts?
However when I checked I found I was at 0 NO3 and 0 PO4, and the dinos came back with a vengeance.
Is there a specific NO3/PO4 number I should be looking for?
My clean up crew is definitely lacking as my tank has always ran pretty clean . Doesn’t seem like anything eats this stuff up except pods so I ordered a double dose of those . Getting nitrates back up has done pretty well in cutting it down . I dosed some dr Tim’s on Monday once I got the tank to register some phosphates .
I’ll give the 3 day black out a go and keep the lights over my fuge lit for duration. It has been dieting back like a said . At one point it was real bad . I’m just glad to identify what the heck it even is .
So what is the plan from this point?
After you get started, What is the End Game?
Compare your dino's with photos where @taricha's has already made ID's:
(Click the link. Then click the SEARCH button at the bottom of the search page.)
What are you doing for nutrient export besides a skimmer and live rock?
≥ 5-10 ppm NO3
≥ 0.10 ppm PO4
So methods discussed that still seem to be viable that don't involve nuking the tank are as follows.
1. Lights out for 3 days
2. Increase phosphates through dosing
Anything else? And should I try these in this order?