Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[a.t.t.r]

One thing that I’m sure it’s totally coincidental is when this outbreak first started it was shortly after I ordered from reefcleaners. Once I beat it or thought, I beat it. This most recent outbreak was after another order from them.

 

[DarkReefer]

One thing that I’m sure it’s totally coincidental is when this outbreak first started it was shortly after I ordered from reefcleaners. Once I beat it or thought, I beat it. This most recent outbreak was after another order from them.

I can't recall if when I first got them I'd had any new additions. It's possible.

Since I've had my phosphates and nitrates high for some time now, I'm considering whether I should perhaps trying going the other way and bring them right down and see if that helps at all. (Not to 0, but see if I can get Nitrates in the 5-10 range and Phosphates to 0.04).
Not sure if it'll do anything because I've had these two high in my first year when I was going through spikes etc and very new to the hobby but I never had dinos.

Regarding the water, I've always bought NSW and RODI water.
Once I move into my new place I intend to buy my own RODI filter and look to mix my own salt as well.


The only thing I can really think of I've done differently this time around is that I tried to go through no water changes. I cycled the tank and changed water once or twice then, but then after that I left it for several months in an attempt to keep the tank without doing it. Then I had an ich outbreak, treated with polyp labs medic and then the dinos came almost immediately after that.
Now I'm doing water changes every 6 weeks roughly I think. (Don't really time it, just do it when I feel I should freshen it up).

 

[OlafsReef]

The last three previous tanks I had, were MH and zero of them had dinos, ever.
The most recent two have Kessil LEDs, with real Florida live rock. BOTH have gotten dinos.

Interestingly I added a second LED to my frag tank that is over a year old and had not had any dino outbreaks. Within 1 week it had dinos.

I would not be surprised AT ALL if something about these lights is reducing the population of a competitor or helping select species of dinos to thrive and spread between our tanks.

Clearly they are more prevelant than they were when I started in 2005.

 

[DarthChaos]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

 

[thedon986]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

They are not the easiest thing to overcome and it's pretty insulting to word it as such. This thread is 608 pages long and the thread focusing exclusive on amphidinium is 89 pages long. Please don't insult everyone here struggling by calling it the easiest thing to overcome.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

lol I’m sorry what!?

 

[OlafsReef]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

Interesting take, had a year old tank with .07 PO4 ,12 Nitrates, no skimmer, got dinos when I added a new LED... Good general theory though.

Low nutrients can certainly trigger, I have definitely noticed when PO4 bottoms out and nitrates are still present as a common trigger. That said, no, it isnt always easy and simple.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Im bringing my lights way down. I have two xr15s over my 20 gallon tank running at 69 percent. I am lowering them to 40 percent to see if it helps. I am also looking for a used t5 setup to throw on for a few months to see what happens if I kill off the LED.

 

[DarkReefer]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

Would you mind telling that to my Tank, Nitrate and Phosphate levels then ?
Because apparently they didn't get the memo.

My Nitrate and Phosphate have been high for months on end with little change to dinos.

 

[Gabtron92]

I

Wow interesting. How long did you have dinos for? I’ve had for about 1.5-2 months and my phosphate was up most of that time, but did hit 0 couple or few times. It might have been low leading up to that. I was on vacation until 10/16/22 and when I tested NO3 and PO4 were 0,0. Room mate didn’t care about tank much lol.

the reason I ask is because I had my phosphates up from .05-.11 for about a month and still had Dino’s during that time. I had restively low magnesium though ranging 1130-1200 during that period though.

it’s kind of crazy all the recommendations we have for Dino. Every day I find a new strategy. Trying to figure out why I incorporate. Some? All lol?

Raise phosphates
UV
Carbon dosing to encourage bacteria growth
Silica to encourage
Add bacteria, MB7
Add phyto
Add copepods
Snails
H202 at night with 10% only blue lights
Raise phosphate and high magnesium?

kind of thinking about using most of them. Most don’t really contradict I think?

anyways below is my readings for the last 1.75 months

I did a combo of all the things you listed for Dino’s! they have been reduced to barely anything. I’m not sure what was the most effective but I think the UV really helped

 

[devocole]

Dinos are the easiest thing in the reef tank, to overcome. Your system is literally telling you something - it's as simple as listening.

If you test your tank - you'll see what the issue is. (If you did - then you know the issue). You don't need a microscope.....or a support group - just need paitence and an understanding of your system.

Because your system is unique to you - an no one else.....only you can manage your nutrient export and management.

REMEMBER, once dinos appear - they will always be present...in the system. As soon as nutrients bottom out again - they'll come right back. You need to keep your systems nutrients at a healthy point.

Your tank is starving.

Now...that all being said, 9/10 times - Dinos are basically a LACK of nutrients. There are certain strains that thrive with misbalance or high nutrients. Again, this is where testing your tank, is key.

Corals, like fish; need food. Even a FOWLR tank.....need nutrients. Aquariums...are no different than people. You wouldn't be too happy....if you were hungry

You don't need to dose/add a No3 or Po4 additive, to bring up your nutrients. Doing "black outs" or using chemicals and medias.....are a band-aid solution. You need to address the cause - until you do, you'll keep facing the problem. Remember....your LFS, companies like BRS - they want you to treat issues with chemicals and medias.....its how they make money

There are much....much easier (and cheaper) ways, to manage low nutrients.

Your nutrients - it's very simple.

1. Start by removing any media - take it out! Your tank is starving.....it wants food. Media - is sucking up, what little nutrients are there. Things like GFO - Chemi-Pure - Phosguard.

This also included filter floss - filter socks. These are removing organics and nutrients...your system needs - right now.

2. Stop or reduce WCs - again, starving tank.

3. Put your skimmer and/or refugium on a timer - keep in mind, if you don't have enough surface agitation....the lack of skimmer, to oxygenate the water - will kill your fish (I've done it).

4. Just feed more - fish food OR coral. Corals....eat what fish eat. Coral foods.....are simply a bonus. No ones dosing Reef roids, in the ocean

As an absolute....last resort - dose in NO3/PO4 - but again.....this is remote and honestly, a waste of money. Very rarely.....if you follow 1-4, would you ever need, to dose in chemicals to increase your nutrients.

Your system....is exporting nutrients well - too well. For now - remember, that may change. Reef tanks...are constantly growing and evolving - dinos one week....GHA the next. Things can change....quickly, if we rush solutions.

Make slow....and methodical changes. Don't change to much - too fast.....or again, you'll end up with issues. Take it slow and steady - and you'll be solid. Just gotta learn your tank and it's biological system

This has some of the basic advice that this good. But rather comical in its delivery. There are strains and types that are not easy to eradicate and is irrelevant to tank conditions. Certainly a new clean tank will allow opportunistic creatures to take over. But "easy to overcome" shows your lack of experience with a difficult case.

 

[bishoptf]

One thing I have been thinking about lately is what has changed that we see so many more cases. I saw some other threads where folks were talking about it, usually everyone wants to throw out there the live rock vs dry rock (diversity) and I am sure that plays some part but someone mentioned lighting technology. Everyone wants to say that in the *cough* old days always used real live rock and saw little prevalence of tank issues with Dinos, but most if not all tanks in the old days were using MH or T5 lighting, what someone mentioned was maybe it could also be the transition to Led lighting that may be playing a part and I thought that was something to think about. In fact some users noted a switch from MH to LED and had high nutrients and had a case of Dino's, anecdotal but it is something to think about, what about leds could maybe be also lending a hand to the dino surge in numbers...

@taricha @ScottB what do you guys think in regards to lighting in addition to dry rock etc..just thought it was an interesting observation that I never really thought about.

 

[ohionut1991]

Hi Friends!

I believe I have an outbreak of dinos (along with cyano) and was wondering if anyone could help me identify the species based on a couple pictures below.

Parameters

Temperature: 78
Salinity: 1.024
pH: 8.3
Alk: 8.2 dKH
NO3: 4.5ppm
PO4: 0 each test the last couple weeks (hanna ULR), what's interesting is I did a water test through Triton a month ago and had 0.077 mg/l. So I know this is likely one of my tank's problems
Mg: 1254
Ca: 450 ppm

112 Gallon system (sump included)
2 LED lights at 15k
Not using my skimmer right now
UV sterilizer is running all the time now
In addition to the return pump I have 2 powerheads for flow

I've been vacuuming the sand and cleaning the rocks with a turkey baster daily for a few weeks with rodi water changes mixed in every week.

GHA was all over my tank a few weeks ago (had 0 nitrates and phosphates) but i've manually removed most of it and it seems under control.

Thanks!

 

[DarkReefer]

One thing I have been thinking about lately is what has changed that we see so many more cases. I saw some other threads where folks were talking about it, usually everyone wants to throw out there the live rock vs dry rock (diversity) and I am sure that plays some part but someone mentioned lighting technology. Everyone wants to say that in the *cough* old days always used real live rock and saw little prevalence of tank issues with Dinos, but most if not all tanks in the old days were using MH or T5 lighting, what someone mentioned was maybe it could also be the transition to Led lighting that may be playing a part and I thought that was something to think about. In fact some users noted a switch from MH to LED and had high nutrients and had a case of Dino's, anecdotal but it is something to think about, what about leds could maybe be also lending a hand to the dino surge in numbers...

I'd say the increase also comes from people like myself who've recently gotten into the hobby.
With social media becoming bigger than ever, covid with many people locked down. Many probably wanted things to do, new interests and hobbies. Pictures of beautiful reef tanks on facebook/instagram draw people into the hobby "Oooh wouldn't it be nice to have something like that in our living room?".

With more and more people getting into the hobby as time goes by it'll continue to increase as people will more likely have friends with tanks and so on. So word of mouth gets around more, the idea gets planted in peoples minds and so on. So in a way it makes sense that there's more cases popping up as people search the internet to find ways of dealing with this ugly and painful pest.


I noticed last night that my dinos seem to not have taken much of a hit after the last h202 dose.
Perhaps I went too light...Sigh.

Waterchange again this weekend I guess, chuck in some fresh filter floss, pull out the carbon and up the rowaphos since that's creeping a whole lot and things aren't looking happy.
Then start the process all over again at a higher dosage for one more last ditch effort before the tank comes apart in a month to move house...

 

[bishoptf]

I'd say the increase also comes from people like myself who've recently gotten into the hobby.
With social media becoming bigger than ever, covid with many people locked down. Many probably wanted things to do, new interests and hobbies. Pictures of beautiful reef tanks on facebook/instagram draw people into the hobby "Oooh wouldn't it be nice to have something like that in our living room?".

With more and more people getting into the hobby as time goes by it'll continue to increase as people will more likely have friends with tanks and so on. So word of mouth gets around more, the idea gets planted in peoples minds and so on. So in a way it makes sense that there's more cases popping up as people search the internet to find ways of dealing with this ugly and painful pest.


I noticed last night that my dinos seem to not have taken much of a hit after the last h202 dose.
Perhaps I went too light...Sigh.

Waterchange again this weekend I guess, chuck in some fresh filter floss, pull out the carbon and up the rowaphos since that's creeping a whole lot and things aren't looking happy.
Then start the process all over again at a higher dosage for one more last ditch effort before the tank comes apart in a month to move house...

Depends on what type you have @ScottB has a good write up that gives you the guidelines to approach...some are more stubborn than others ive had 2 kinds and just depends and takes lots of patience...you learn a lot if you make it out through the other side but not pleasant ride thats for sure....from my .02 h202 never really did much and I did high doses for weeks.....Scott has has a lot of good suggestions in that document...

 

[ScottB]

Hi Friends!

I believe I have an outbreak of dinos (along with cyano) and was wondering if anyone could help me identify the species based on a couple pictures below.

Parameters

Temperature: 78
Salinity: 1.024
pH: 8.3
Alk: 8.2 dKH
NO3: 4.5ppm
PO4: 0 each test the last couple weeks (hanna ULR), what's interesting is I did a water test through Triton a month ago and had 0.077 mg/l. So I know this is likely one of my tank's problems
Mg: 1254
Ca: 450 ppm

112 Gallon system (sump included)
2 LED lights at 15k
Not using my skimmer right now
UV sterilizer is running all the time now
In addition to the return pump I have 2 powerheads for flow

I've been vacuuming the sand and cleaning the rocks with a turkey baster daily for a few weeks with rodi water changes mixed in every week.

GHA was all over my tank a few weeks ago (had 0 nitrates and phosphates) but i've manually removed most of it and it seems under control.

Thanks!

Based on the photos I cannot provide a high conviction ID. Could be prorocentrum given shape and location. Were they moving or sessile?
Check out the article I wrote that @Tom Bishop linked just above. It links to and Dino ID guide that @taricha produced. It includes videos, showing the SWIM patterns of the different species.

 

[DarkReefer]

Depends on what type you have @ScottB has a good write up that gives you the guidelines to approach...some are more stubborn than others ive had 2 kinds and just depends and takes lots of patience...you learn a lot if you make it out through the other side but not pleasant ride thats for sure....from my .02 h202 never really did much and I did high doses for weeks.....Scott has has a lot of good suggestions in that document...

Thank you, I'll give it a good read over.
the first time around it was amazing and seemed to really most of it, but this time around it's certainly done less...

 

[a.t.t.r]

I'd say the increase also comes from people like myself who've recently gotten into the hobby.
With social media becoming bigger than ever, covid with many people locked down. Many probably wanted things to do, new interests and hobbies. Pictures of beautiful reef tanks on facebook/instagram draw people into the hobby "Oooh wouldn't it be nice to have something like that in our living room?".

With more and more people getting into the hobby as time goes by it'll continue to increase as people will more likely have friends with tanks and so on. So word of mouth gets around more, the idea gets planted in peoples minds and so on. So in a way it makes sense that there's more cases popping up as people search the internet to find ways of dealing with this ugly and painful pest.


I noticed last night that my dinos seem to not have taken much of a hit after the last h202 dose.
Perhaps I went too light...Sigh.

Waterchange again this weekend I guess, chuck in some fresh filter floss, pull out the carbon and up the rowaphos since that's creeping a whole lot and things aren't looking happy.
Then start the process all over again at a higher dosage for one more last ditch effort before the tank comes apart in a month to move house...

Reefcentral was always a thing. It really is just more prevalent.

 

[DarkReefer]

Just had a read over that document, thanks for linking @Tom Bishop and thanks for putting it together @ScottB
Certainly gives me some other things to try and think about also.

My dinos certainly showed up after dosing medications to try and correct things. First it was polyplabs medic for some ich that showed up, then I noticed the issue start up shortly after. I first thought it was Cyano and then dosed chemiclean which appeared to do nothing so I suspect the medic was the one that really upset things.

Do I still need to bother dosing silicates if I have high phosphates etc? Or is this not related?
Phosphates have been +0.1 for the past month, last week testing at 0.187
Nitrates have been over 30 for a month, and over 15 for several months.
Unfortunately doesn't look like brightwell products are easily available in Australia. The Microbacter7 I bought last time was from Ebay I think. I can't seem to find listings for the spongexcel for delivery here currently.


I'm thinking maybe I try and get some actual live rock from the LFS, chucking the UV back on. I threw in some fresh carbon last weekend so that should be okay.
I think the type I have was the Prorocentrum, I did think it was large cell initially but for memory someone on here (can't recall who) suggested it was actually the Proro ones. Who knows, perhaps a mix of the two ?

 

[bishoptf]

Just had a read over that document, thanks for linking @Tom Bishop and thanks for putting it together @ScottB
Certainly gives me some other things to try and think about also.

My dinos certainly showed up after dosing medications to try and correct things. First it was polyplabs medic for some ich that showed up, then I noticed the issue start up shortly after. I first thought it was Cyano and then dosed chemiclean which appeared to do nothing so I suspect the medic was the one that really upset things.

Do I still need to bother dosing silicates if I have high phosphates etc? Or is this not related?
Phosphates have been +0.1 for the past month, last week testing at 0.187
Nitrates have been over 30 for a month, and over 15 for several months.
Unfortunately doesn't look like brightwell products are easily available in Australia. The Microbacter7 I bought last time was from Ebay I think. I can't seem to find listings for the spongexcel for delivery here currently.


I'm thinking maybe I try and get some actual live rock from the LFS, chucking the UV back on. I threw in some fresh carbon last weekend so that should be okay.
I think the type I have was the Prorocentrum, I did think it was large cell initially but for memory someone on here (can't recall who) suggested it was actually the Proro ones. Who knows, perhaps a mix of the two ?

Mea Culpa...that is @taricha guide that I attached, sorry about that but he really does cover most of the things to try based on type so you really need to scope (microscope) things out and determine which flavor that you have then see what he recommends in the guide....chemiclean is really bad for tipping things the other way, ask me how I know so I would not use chemiclean ever again, many do and have no issues but many do and have issues like dino's that show up...