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That is a silicate solution right? I would keep going. It is harmless and typically doesn't build up in the system unless you are really going wild with it.should i stop KZ SpongePower?
actually i'm dosing it plus zeobak and zeostart
Lucky that worked for you. Does not give me much hope since i am half way in to the treatment and saw dinos bounce back first day lights were on... Running UV and increasing nutrients as well...So it's been about 2 weeks since I've seen any dinos in my tank. I had Ostropsis pretty bad and even after using high quality UV, it didn't go away. After almost 2 months of the dinos getting progressively worse, I ended up trying Dr. Tim's method using their Refresh and Waste-Away regimen combined with a blackout. After the blackout (I did 4 days), there were no visible dinos, and to this day I cannot spot any.
My concern is that there are probably some Ostreo still in the tank, and given the right conditions, they might take over again, which would be devastating. I'm running UV 24/7 and keeping nutrients at proper levels. I just finished dosing the Waste-away. I resumed normal lighting. My AWC has been off for 2 months now. Is there anything else I should be doing to prevent a comeback? When is it safe to restart the AWC?
Interesting that UV did not control your ostreos. It does happen, but is pretty rare. Also interesting that Dr Tim's worked for you. Haven't been many stories in this thread with Dr Tim's in ages.So it's been about 2 weeks since I've seen any dinos in my tank. I had Ostropsis pretty bad and even after using high quality UV, it didn't go away. After almost 2 months of the dinos getting progressively worse, I ended up trying Dr. Tim's method using their Refresh and Waste-Away regimen combined with a blackout. After the blackout (I did 4 days), there were no visible dinos, and to this day I cannot spot any.
My concern is that there are probably some Ostreo still in the tank, and given the right conditions, they might take over again, which would be devastating. I'm running UV 24/7 and keeping nutrients at proper levels. I just finished dosing the Waste-away. I resumed normal lighting. My AWC has been off for 2 months now. Is there anything else I should be doing to prevent a comeback? When is it safe to restart the AWC?
Interesting that UV did not control your ostreos. It does happen, but is pretty rare. Also interesting that Dr Tim's worked for you. Haven't been many stories in this thread with Dr Tim's in ages.
Can you share with us what organisms now control the surfaces vacated by the dinos? Bacterial film? Film algae? A dusting of cyano?
Yes, the ostreos are still there, living a marginal existence alongside all of your other surface competitors.
Keep feeding the competition.
Keep residual nutrients available and measured.
Avoid any "deep cleaning".
Avoid amino acids.
Keep UV running.
Avoid ChemiClean
You are probably OK to restart AWC. Just keep an eye out.
A lot going on there, but "normal film algae" to me is the key observation. The game with dinos is all about about control of uninhabited surfaces. Is it green, brown or clear? Phyto: live or dead?So yeah I'm cautiously optimistic. Here's a list of treatments I've implemented:
- Water changes have been off for 2 months.
- High quality UV on slow flow plumbed DT to DT.
- NO3 and PO4 kept elevated via heavier feeding and dosing.
- Daily dosing of MB7 and MB Clean for the past month.
- Daily dosing of phyto
- 4 day blackout 2.5 weeks ago while dosing Dr Tims Refresh
- Blackout followed by daily dosing of Dr Tims Waste Away, while continuing to dose the MB products.
Currently, the tank looks pristine with the exception of of normal film algae. I don't have any sand and ~80% of all surfaces are covered in coraline algae. Examining random scrapings under the microscope, I can see a variety of microbial life. Also, my pods are out in groves.
I don't know if any of the above treatments were more effective than others, but in all likelihood it was a combination of several factors that contributed to the dinos receding. My theory is that adding a variety of competing bacteria and feeding my pods led to increased competition/predation that ultimately tipped the scale.
I wonder if people who are successful with UV alone have a greater amount of microbial life. This setup (130g frag tank with a 100g sump) is less than a year old, and it was started with dry rock, so I wouldn't expect rich bio-fauna yet. As I stated before, my Ostreo was happy staying attached to surfaces overnight. Maybe they are more compelled to free float if surrounded by competing organisms? Just a thought.
Btw, I have a ton of coral, including lots of acros, and they did just fine with 4 day total blackout. Just thought I'd mention it since I've read posts advising against going more than 3 days.
The film is just the normal green stuff that forms on glass over time. The thing is, I’ve always had it and I actually don’t worry about cleaning it off since this is a frag tank. Most of it actually died off during the blackout, but it’s coming back again.A lot going on there, but "normal film algae" to me is the key observation. The game with dinos is all about about control of uninhabited surfaces. Is it green, brown or clear? Phyto: live or dead?
This is a very cool. I am all in with new/different ways to change the competitive landscape.
@taricha how would you unpack all this?
@ScottB what do you think of these pics?current situation After Dino outbreak (lights still 6hours at 30% max)
Update on this one: more diatomsI have dinos (prorocentrum) for the second time this year. Ugh! I beat it last time with silicate dosing.
I believe I have successfully induced a diatom bloom. The entire sand bed is covered in rusty ugliness.
1. Why are my phosphates stable at 0.05, but nitrates depleting to 0. I tried dosing and finally got it to be above 2. Initially tank consumed about 5 ppm nitrates per day with no change in phosphates
2. Should I continue dosing nitrates and silicates on a daily basis? I am planning to make sure the tank is at at 5 ppm nitrates, 0.05 ppm phosphates, 1 ppm silicates at the beginning of the photo period.
Here is a microscope shot from yesterday.
Without microscope pictures, we are all only speculating. Likely a mix of diatoms and some form of dinos.current situation After Dino outbreak (lights still 6hours at 30% max)
honestly i'm not able to check this at microscope. usually i check dino's muco, but with this i don't have muco, should i check the Brown Sand?Without microscope pictures, we are all only speculating. Likely a mix of diatoms and some form of dinos.
Get as much of the stuff & sand into a vial and shake it up real good. Then place a few drops of the water on a slide.honestly i'm not able to check this at microscope. usually i check dino's muco, but with this i don't have muco, should i check the Brown Sand?
i'll tryGet as much of the stuff & sand into a vial and shake it up real good. Then place a few drops of the water on a slide.
Get as much of the stuff & sand into a vial and shake it up real good. Then place a few drops of the water on a slide.