Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[Biologic]

LC amphids are very low toxicity so I am not surprised the nassarius were unfazed. There are a couple

Manage the light hours on the chaeto judiciously so as not to loose too much nutrient. Enjoy.

LC amphids are very low toxicity so I am not surprised the nassarius were unfazed. There are a couple videos around here of pods actually (apparently) eating LC amphids.

Manage the light hours on the chaeto judiciously so as not to loose too much nutrient. Enjoy.

Oh and I should add, my pH is been super high now. Looking at my Apex, the chaeto reactor is making a difference as it grows in.

I have been dosing Sodium Carbonate, which could contribute, but I’ve been out of town. My wife is dosing for me. So their is still some CO2 in the home. Even still the effect on pH sodium Carbonate for my tank personally is only for about an hour up by 0.1 and then follows the previous downward trend slope, normal for my diurnal swing. None the less, pH has progressively increased. I’ve noticed this trend when the dinoflagellates were at their highest density in population. They drove pH up.

However, No sight of dinoflagellates,pH remains high. Which means that the chaeto is sucking up the available CO2. Previously dinos were driving my pH swings. I’d like my cheato reactor to lessen the swing. We will see.

also, I should add my phosphates have moved down, 0.11 ppm from the previous 0.18 ppm in the span of 5 days.

A correction — nitrates were actually probably closer to 20 or 25 ppm. Salifert doesn’t read well on the cusp of high or low. Highly subjective, based on perception of color.

Polyp expansion looks great. Things appear to be on the right track.

 

[Biff0rz]

Can someone please confirm if and what kind of dinos this is?

I want to make sure what I'm doing is effective.

I did
7 day blackout (no corals)
Slightly increased feedings
Dosed h2o2
Dosed mb7
Vacuumed some of the sandbed

Now, I bought a uv but have been having issues getting it hooked up (pump is leaking)
I've also noticed my chaeoto macro algea melted (see pink pic). My nitrates have been steady between 5-10ppm but po4 has been elevated more than usual.

Anyways here's some pics and a video

 

[ScottB]

Can someone please confirm if and what kind of dinos this is?

I want to make sure what I'm doing is effective.

I did
7 day blackout (no corals)
Slightly increased feedings
Dosed h2o2
Dosed mb7
Vacuumed some of the sandbed

Now, I bought a uv but have been having issues getting it hooked up (pump is leaking)
I've also noticed my chaeoto macro algea melted (see pink pic). My nitrates have been steady between 5-10ppm but po4 has been elevated more than usual.

Anyways here's some pics and a video

I cannot conclusively make those out. Any chance you can go up a level on magnification? Or try zooming in with your phone camera? Roomba movement may suggest large cell amphidinium but that would be a "best guess" that is less than ideal.

 

[Biff0rz]

I cannot conclusively make those out. Any chance you can go up a level on magnification? Or try zooming in with your phone camera? Roomba movement may suggest large cell amphidinium but that would be a "best guess" that is less than ideal.

I returned the microscope.... Oops

 

[TheTangFuzz]

Any help on ID? Long stringy mucus. Killing corals. Zero phosphate per Salifert and 3-5 nitrate per nyos.
Started feeding a TON just a few days ago to combat this. Tank is 90g 20g sump. New sand, about half new rocks. Waited for cycle and after moved everything from my established 46g over. Within days I have what I believe to be dinos WRECKING my tank. 25w UV should be here on the 5th. What can I do to save my torches etc..

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Any help on ID? Long stringy mucus. Killing corals. Zero phosphate per Salifert and 3-5 nitrate per nyos.
Started feeding a TON just a few days ago to combat this. Tank is 90g 20g sump. New sand, about half new rocks. Waited for cycle and after moved everything from my established 46g over. Within days I have what I believe to be dinos WRECKING my tank. 25w UV should be here on the 5th. What can I do to save my torches etc..

Get some organic nitrate and phosphate to dose nutrients rather than overfeeding.

Get a microscope to get an actual ID.

Run GAC to deal with some of the apparent toxins while you wait on the UV. Plumb the UV directly to DT and low flow.

 

[Biff0rz]

Get some organic nitrate and phosphate to dose nutrients rather than overfeeding.

Get a microscope to get an actual ID.

Run GAC to deal with some of the apparent toxins while you wait on the UV. Plumb the UV directly to DT and low flow.

Isn't it high flow for algea and low flow for parasites (ich)?

 

[Biff0rz]

Those of you dosing trates / po4 what do you target?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Isn't it high flow for algea and low flow for parasites (ich)?

Yes, you want low flow for dinos.

Those of you dosing trates / po4 what do you target?

10ppm NO3 and 0.1-0.15 PO4.

 

[TheTangFuzz]

Get some organic nitrate and phosphate to dose nutrients rather than overfeeding.

Get a microscope to get an actual ID.

Run GAC to deal with some of the apparent toxins while you wait on the UV. Plumb the UV directly to DT and low flow.

Running GAC in a media bag currently,

This is my microscope I just got it uploaded lol

 

[ScottB]

Any help on ID? Long stringy mucus. Killing corals. Zero phosphate per Salifert and 3-5 nitrate per nyos.
Started feeding a TON just a few days ago to combat this. Tank is 90g 20g sump. New sand, about half new rocks. Waited for cycle and after moved everything from my established 46g over. Within days I have what I believe to be dinos WRECKING my tank. 25w UV should be here on the 5th. What can I do to save my torches etc..

Ostreopsis for sure.

run some activated carbon
run UV super slow TO/FROM display. it is temporary. a bit small but might work.
hang some filter floss on the glass in high flow and high light areas; rinse each evening.
no phyto, no amino. dose Neophos and NeoNitro or diy.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Running GAC in a media bag currently,

This is my microscope I just got it uploaded lol

Yup, like @ScottB said, Ostreopsis. Tell tale sign, the rolling around movement. Keep running GAC as they can be pretty toxic. I'd switch out the bag every couple days.

These were the first dinos I ever had in my tank, kicked them in a couple weeks with nutrient dosing and UV.

 

[Biff0rz]

Yes, you want low flow for dinos.


10ppm NO3 and 0.1-0.15 PO4.

Aren't dinos a type of algea and not a parasite? I swore I read everywhere high flow for dinos like osteo..

 

[tidefanjam]

I believe these are Ostreopsis, is this pic good enough to tell? Best I could get with a crappy microscope and my phone, they are all over rocks, power heads, sandbed, pretty much everywhere

 

[Reeferdeluxe]

I have been battling dinos for close to 2 months.

No3 2-5ppm
Po4 .1

Seems to be on the sand and rocks . I see hermit crabs constantly eating it to no ill effect I have been thinking small cell amphidium. Things I have tried

Vaccuming sandbed into filter sock seems to make things worse.

Uv 55 watt Jebao no noticeable effect

Raised temp to 83 no effect

I have gha everywhere and doesn't seem to effect it

Dosed mb7 awhile ago now dosing mb clean
Not sure if its helping

Turned skimmer off and still is.

I guess I'm just searching for a solid id and a path to beat this.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Aren't dinos a type of algea and not a parasite? I swore I read everywhere high flow for dinos like osteo..

Not sure what they're truly classified as, if you talk to a botanist they'll say is algae, you talk to a zoologist they'll say it's a protozoan.

All I know is you want low flow as you would with protozoan/parasites.

 

[ScottB]

Isn't it high flow for algea and low flow for parasites (ich)?

Dinos have armor, so maximize contact time with UV.

 

[Deep]

Dinos have armor, so maximize contact time with UV.

Do they multiply rapidly like algae though - in which case a slow flow may not work ?

 

[ScottB]

Aren't dinos a type of algea and not a parasite? I swore I read everywhere high flow for dinos like osteo..

They are a free swimming protist. They don't float like algae, they swim with flagella. Some have photosynthetic properties, some are carnivores like ostreopsis. Most have theca -- like armored shells. Some are autotropic, others heterotopic, and some mixed. There are thousands of species. We deal with about 5 of them. They are detailed here:

Dinoflagellate Identification Guide

I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[ScottB]

Do they multiply rapidly like algae though - in which case a slow flow may not work ?

They can multiply quickly asexually. Ostreopsis can really get going quick as they are the most poisonous easily creating enough food to support rapid cell division.

Folks often say "I already have a UV running in-line and it is not working!" That is because the return pump runs them through so fast they are unaffected by it. Algae and bacteria have no armor (theca). Dinos do.

Unless you have a ridiculously oversized UV, you have to run slow.