Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
- Thread starter mcarroll
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Do you have the ProMax version? Those are impressive pieces. In any case 90 watts will serve you well on that system
We usually recommend around 300gph. With that baby, you could run a little faster and do good damage.
This is for ostreopsis, right?
Oh I forgot to add the part that you are really not going to like. It is strongly encouraged to run the flow directly to/from the display tank itself (unless the outbreak is in the refugium). It is just temporary. You can even pull it off during the day if you cant stand looking at it. I just glued up some PVC inlet/outlet plumbing into an inverted "U" shape that hangs on the side glass.
If you already have it plumbed to the sump you can try and hope that you get enough dinos into the overflow. Just remember that these are purposeful swimming creatures.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
Yes, this is for what I believe is osteo, I have some pics and a video a few posts up but I'll add them here again, it's hard to tell. I want to run the uv in the tank regardless, so that's how I'm plumbing it. I bought parts to run a closed loop, with U shaped plumbing at the top, I just need to prime the system which I will make easy by adding a tap at the top that screws/unscrews. Since that will be seldomly done I don't mind doing it once in a while. I'm also doing that to help break the siphon. Anyways, yes, it'll be plumbed into the dt directly. And yes it is the ProMax version. I'm just missing the pump.
Note - the plumbing in this pic is temporary and 1.25". I was under the assumption of high flow and have purchased new plumbing for 1". Now that I need low flow.... I sort of want to reduce to 3/4" now because I don't have a ton of space behind the tank. Arrg.
Yes, this is for what I believe is osteo, I have some pics and a video a few posts up but I'll add them here again, it's hard to tell. I want to run the uv in the tank regardless, so that's how I'm plumbing it. I bought parts to run a closed loop, with U shaped plumbing at the top, I just need to prime the system which I will make easy by adding a tap at the top that screws/unscrews. Since that will be seldomly done I don't mind doing it once in a while. I'm also doing that to help break the siphon. Anyways, yes, it'll be plumbed into the dt directly. And yes it is the ProMax version. I'm just missing the pump.
Note - the plumbing in this pic is temporary and 1.25". I was under the assumption of high flow and have purchased new plumbing for 1". Now that I need low flow.... I sort of want to reduce to 3/4" now because I don't have a ton of space behind the tank. Arrg.
Oh I did see that video but couldn't confirm. But I am 75% sure they are NOT ostreopsis. I am relying on swim pattern since I cannot make out the shape. Ostreos don't swim like that; others do.
@taricha do you think those are LC Amphidinium? (OP, LC amphids are unaffected by UV)
As to your proposed configuration, I would place the pump in the water.
Lastly, how old is this setup and what are your nutrient levels like?
As to your configuration
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
What treatment has affects on LC amphid?
Pump is 100% not going in the tank. It'll run external and I'll just have two U hooks on the end. I don't mind priming it when needed. I already ran the system while the pump was leaking slightly, worked fine.
Setup isn't too mature yet. I've been up and running since late August but the tank sat fallow and ULN for a long time.. Ugh. I didn't know about dinos then. The first fish were added 11/4.
Nutrient levels- I've been tracking po4 and no3 more frequently because of things. As of today nitrates are around 5-6ppm. Po4 was recently at 0.17 but dropped to 0.09.
I've been dosing mb7 and h2o2 at night. I did a 7 day blackout too.
I have two more videos, they aren't great
one other note, the water is a bit cloudy and gets worse at night which makes me think osteo. TDS on my water is 1 because I haven't changed filters yet but I'm also not doing w/c's at the moment.
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There is an amphidinium treatment thread separate from this one you can search for. It is a noisy place without (IMO) a clearly agreed protocol so so can just pick what works for you. Assuming this is amphidinium, the UV is not going to be effective. That is one established fact. But I still am unsure your species.
Your system is so young there is really no good purpose for intervention at this point. Assuming a dead rock start you have 5-10 more phases to pass through before the biome matures and settles. Double digit months to go.
Just slowly add fish (bioload) and keep track of the basics: salinity, temp, nutrients.
Biff0rz
Valuable Member
I started with 90% live rock, 10% dead. But all were cured together for 6mo+ and my cycle was about a week. The live rock came from a mature system then was cured. Not sure if any of that matters much. I do know I'm early to be treating this which I initially questioned but in some of my other threads I was told its osteo and go take action... So here I am. If you think it's too early I don't mind waiting through all the phases. I started with two clowns, I now have 8 fish in the tank.
Ah OK. Good way to start.
If @taricha sees ostreopsis, then you have them. Hopefully he has the day off and will comment. If you have not already looked through his ID guide for clues, you can do that here:
Dinoflagellate Identification Guide
I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.
www.reef2reef.com
Check out the movement videos he linked. That was my basis for guessing LC Amphidinium.
I'd take a pass on aggressive treatment for LC Amphids. Dosing MicroBacter is fine as long as you are keeping some nutrient in the system.
Ostreos I would treat for with the UV.
If your PO4 is also zero, that is the more important one (assuming you have corals).
Also, when you are nitrate limited, adding NO3 will lower PO4. Hopefully you have plenty to spare and can get dosing. But watch PO4 carefully.
Yes, fairly certain those are diatoms. That is not the most common shape I have seen. They kinda look like half of a diatom. More typical to see two pointy ends.I think my dinos went away for a while now, but these brown things still showing up when lights are on. Are these diatoms?
Yours is an accurate belief. Bust out the UV, dose up some P04 and NO3, and run a little GAC.Don't mind me, just popping in to share a picture of what I believe to be an ostreopsis cell.
Oh it's not my tank. This was a member of the local reef club who wanted me to ID his algae with my microscope.
bishoptf
Valuable Member
So I have been battling small cell ampids with some reducing but with trying to keep PO4 up I am having cyano break out big time. It's like dino's evil twin, clean it out and it comes back. I've really been trying to not go down the chemiclean route but I have no idea how to address the cyano at the same time with Dino's....the gift that just keeps giving. I aslo have what I think is gha but not sure if that's it or something else, what a mess. I understand why the drop out rate is so high, it's pretty demoralizing going through it.
Any suggestions welcome...
The stuff is hard to get off, clings to the rocks pretty well, the cyano is dark red and stringy and pretty sure it loves all the PO4 i have been dumping in the tank.
Any suggestions welcome...
The stuff is hard to get off, clings to the rocks pretty well, the cyano is dark red and stringy and pretty sure it loves all the PO4 i have been dumping in the tank.
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TheTangFuzz
Active Member
Alright, I might be speaking too early, but I believe I have triumphed over my ost dinos if anyone has any questions I will try my best to go over what I did they were gone OVERNIGHT.
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