Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

mwilk19

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This go around is worse than the first one. I have more strings and they are much longer. I'm going to reduce my light period to 4 hours per day and see if that helps any. I've had reef tanks since the early 90's. That was back when we were using trickle filters with plastic media. I'm not even sure that I tested for nitrates and phosphates. I hadn't heard of dinoflagellites until the last few years. It's frustrating but all I can do is keep plugging along.
 

Paullawr

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@Monkeynaut
First off, I dunno what they are, what I will say could be wrong, but I don't think they are a dinoflagellate. At least not a kind that normally cause problems for us.
Reasons I don't think it's a problem dino:
Size is very small - based on scale comparison of the triangle diatom and what you say magnification is, you're looking at stuff under 20 microns, more like 5-10. Our problem dinos are usually more like 50 microns and up.
No theca (armor with grooves in it) that most dinos have.
The one that did swim, was swimming viciously fast, unlike our problem dinos that mostly rely on photosynthesis - things that swim that fast are usually primarily predators.

Most cells moving like this in this size class that aren't dinos are ciliates, but yours have no cilia either.
That leaves us with other random tiny unicellular flagellates.
Lots of candidates in families like Prymnesium
http://cfb.unh.edu/phycokey/Choices/Prymnesiophyceae/PRYMNESIUM/Prymnesium_key.htm
...and many Chlorophytes (green algae) that have single-cell flagellate forms
http://cfb.unh.edu/phycokey/Choices/Chlorophyceae/unicells/flagellated/unicell_flag_key.html
In terms of size, shape, color, how some in your sample paired up for reproduction/splitting, and swim pattern - Tetraselmis is actually a pretty similar looking thing.
[edit: hotlinking this image not working, so click for it.]
http://www.scielo.cl/fbpe/img/gbot/v72n1/art07_fig01.JPG



All that said, I don't think what you have is a problem or will become one. None of the things in those families raise a red flag for me. And many of them are stuff we feed in raising live foods. If this stuff starts forming thick brown blankets, snotty blobs, or long strings - then we ought to worry.

let's also tag @jason2459 on this microscope ID Q.

p.s. For random protozoa ID videos - (in addition to Jason) this guy is amazing

https://www.youtube.com/user/fpelectronica

Like a thousand marine protist videos with IDs on nearly every single one. I need to find a way to send the dude some money. If his youtube channel were a book, I'd spend like $50 on it, even though I don't read a word of spanish.

I've found them after my tank nuke under scope. The are small, swim as if they can see and at speed.
 

Paullawr

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Nah, never found any green worms. But apparently flatworms (convolutriloba) which I have had also host "tet" as their symbiont.
Interesting. In all samples I've taken (of the Dino snot ) multiple worms were present. Only in stringy slime samples, not in sand etc that I scoped.
 

reeferfoxx

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I think I too are going to wave the towel. Increased/consistent nutrients aren't doing the trick for me. But before that happens I think I'm going to throw everything in my arsenal at the tank. First 3 day black out with h202, then vibrant followed by Refresh and Waste Away.

giphy.gif
 
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mcarroll

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Think I missed this...sorry! :) Let me know if any of my comments are now "dated". ;)

My dance with the dinos started in January. I was running a ULNS [...].

This is not an unheard of link.

Were you monitoring N and P during this early time? Do you have any numbers from then you could post? (If it was all-zero's all the time, you can just say so. ;) )

About the time the dinos showed up I began to feel that my corals just weren't doing as well as they should.

No doubt they were beginning to suffer for lack of nutrients. This is the same condition in many cases that triggers dino's to change their behavior and become more aggressive.

About the time the dinos showed up I began to feel that my corals just weren't doing as well as they should.I switched to ESV salt and BRS 2 part. I started dosing stump remover and began using Vibrant to help get rid of some bubble algae that I had.

This sounds like you weren't doing anything for P at the time?

Salt shouldn't make a difference, although stability of your salinity as well as temperature can both make a difference to triggering your dino's to bloom.

I restocked my tank with sps. I lost about 80% of my sticks in the first go around.

Too much too fast for a tank that probably still had most of the same problems – lack of P is very, very bad.

Check out some of the posts on phosphates in the coral section on my blog:
Search Link

I was never convinced that they wqere completely gone but there was no sign of them on the rocks or sand. About three weeks ago my salinity was low so I decided to mix up some salt to put in my top off container. I had some Aquaforest reef salt left so I figured I'd use that. Well, guess what is back?

They never are gone – that was your gut talking to you! :) Keep listening. :)

It might even be true that the tank work be worse-off without them – we have no idea what role they play when they aren't blooming.

So the tank went through another bout of instability on at least a few fronts including starvation again (how stable is feeding?) – not totally surprising to see them come back.

I've started dosing KNO3 and Neophos to get my nutrients up. Yesterday my Po4 measured 0 so I added Neophos. Today it measured .06 and my nitrates were at 3. What are we looking for a sweet spot for NO3 and PO4 to help beat back the dinos?
  • Stability is job one.
  • Keep your doses small and regular.
  • Make any changes to your dose small and infrequent. (see below)
  • Test regularly and record your results in some kind of diary.
  • Don't expect good results for at least a few weeks.
  • Don't run out of patience for at least a month or two....things very often appear to get uglier before they get better.
.05 ppm/5.0 ppm are reasonable targets that give your system some headroom for growth without going to excess. :)
 
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reeferfoxx

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Remind me when did you start?
N and P dosing began around the first or second week of June. Growth was fairly consistent up until last thursday or friday. It appears to be in turbo mode now.
 

Peng

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Had ostreopsis ovata when I was running biopellets in a lightly stocked tank with pale corals. Tried everything from 5 day black-outs to dosing 3L H2O2 into a 200g tank. At the end I tried increasing the nutrients by having more fish and feeding more. Dino slowly went away. Never thought I'd have my tank back. Was about to quit. Now my tanks been thriving and colors are amazing. Ever since that I became a big believer of keeping things in the sump simple and have detectable nutrients at all time.
 

Paullawr

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I think I too are going to wave the towel. Increased/consistent nutrients aren't doing the trick for me. But before that happens I think I'm going to throw everything in my arsenal at the tank. First 3 day black out with h202, then vibrant followed by Refresh and Waste Away.

giphy.gif
My initial assault was similar. Except no black out.

I used metroplex, vibrant, prodibo. Combined it changed how the strings formed, but didn't alter numbers.

I'd had success in past with ph swings. Not something I like doing but as I only had a toadstool left by this stage coral wise I thought I'd give it a whirl. It knocked them back. I'd say 98%. The calcium precipitation worked as an after effect smothering nee formed strings and continues to do so.
 
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mcarroll

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N and P dosing began around the first or second week of June. Growth was fairly consistent up until last thursday or friday. It appears to be in turbo mode now.

Can you post or PM me a before/after set of pics? I believe you it's happening, I'm just curious to see what's growing and how it looks!! :D

Can you also remind me if you did other treatments like bleach, h2o2, algaefix, vibrant, chemiclean, etc, etc, etc before we got to this point? (I know I tried half those things before I did....thanks again to @robert and @Russ265 helping to connect the dots on this!!)
 

Paullawr

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Can you post or PM me a before/after set of pics? I believe you it's happening, I'm just curious to see what's growing and how it looks!! :D

Can you also remind me if you did other treatments like bleach, h2o2, algaefix, vibrant, chemiclean, etc, etc, etc before we got to this point? (I know I tried half those things before I did....thanks again to @robert and @Russ265 helping to connect the dots on this!!)
What did Robert and Russ do t connect dots Mcarroll.
 

Paullawr

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N and P dosing began around the first or second week of June. Growth was fairly consistent up until last thursday or friday. It appears to be in turbo mode now.
This might be a shot in the dark now. If nutrient dosing is designed to feed organisms which have a predatory nature on dinoflagellates and encourage their growth, if you have no organisms left to multiply then the dosing nutrients may not achieve much.

Would it be worth then (whilst continuing to dose) add a piece of live rock/sand to hopefully introduce these beneficial ciliates and higher organisms.

What we could do with, is an inoculation process. Take and pass around water and sand from cured tanks. Try and pass on the good guys.
 

zachxlutz

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This might be a shot in the dark now. If nutrient dosing is designed to feed organisms which have a predatory nature on dinoflagellates and encourage their growth, if you have no organisms left to multiply then the dosing nutrients may not achieve much.

Would it be worth then (whilst continuing to dose) add a piece of live rock/sand to hopefully introduce these beneficial ciliates and higher organisms.

What we could do with, is an inoculation process. Take and pass around water and sand from cured tanks. Try and pass on the good guys.

I ordered the "Refugium Starter Pack" from live-plants.com and tossed the live sand and macros into my refugium when I began dosing PO4 to help battle my dinos. I believe adding some biodiversity from the live sand and macros, plus increasing phosphates and adding pods and phytoplankton was the cure for my dinos. I agree with your statement... I believe it's possible to limit the diversity in our systems by starving things out and the benefits from jump starting the diversity through established sand/live rock additions seem to be paramount in defeating dinos.
 

reeferfoxx

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Can you post or PM me a before/after set of pics? I believe you it's happening, I'm just curious to see what's growing and how it looks!! :D
I haven't dosed anything but N and P. In fact, after making that post I had yo make sure I still had vibrant and some h202 lol.. BTW I'm a little tenacious. I did dose 3ml of h202 last night....

So what kind of before then after pic you looking for? I posted these earlier. I would say this WAS after three days worth of growing. Now it gets like this during one day.
20170622_180159.jpg 20170622_180225.jpg
 

Paullawr

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I haven't dosed anything but N and P. In fact, after making that post I had yo make sure I still had vibrant and some h202 lol.. BTW I'm a little tenacious. I did dose 3ml of h202 last night....

So what kind of before then after pic you looking for? I posted these earlier. I would say this WAS after three days worth of growing. Now it gets like this during one day.
20170622_180159.jpg 20170622_180225.jpg
3ml of h202 imo isn't enough.

O3 will oxidise what it comes in contact with. That could be any organic from fish scales....so no guarentee it's hitting the cells. Osteo is practically immune to it as well (if that's your flavour). The armour is difficult to punch through. To give you an example in my second to last tank I incremented to see if I could find a kill level. Before it got to that Level where it would harm the cells it was also harmful to other creatures. I lost a hermit in the experiment.
That was around 200ml in 15 litres of salt water from memory.

So far com your pics your corals look ok. Mine were messed up by the strains I had.
 

reeferfoxx

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3ml of h202 imo isn't enough.
Point was to start small then increase.

Before it got to that Level where it would harm the cells it was also harmful to other creatures.
Sometimes when we get to the restart or start over point, we tend not to care about the little things... Lol :(

So far com your pics your corals look ok.
Other corals are starting to show stress. Like I said, the dinos are going into turbo mode(overdrive)
 

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