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Hi, We have not tested for chrysophytes.
Hi @BeuchatHi Dr. Jim, the DIY organic carbon additive is made of:
225 ml of vodka (40%)
25 ml of white vinegar
1 tea spoon of brown sugar
Dose is 0,5 ml/100 liters of aquarium water per day
Hope it helps
yes, That is correctHi @Beuchat
I'm about to try this method using the DIY organic carbon additive.
I understand week 1 dose is 0.5ml/100 liters. What about week 2? Is it 1ml/100 liters? Week 3 is 1.5ml/100 liters?
Thanks. I started dosing the DIY solution today. Leaving some photos for reference.yes, That is correct
Following!Thanks. I started dosing the DIY solution today. Leaving some photos for reference.
Is there perhaps a recipe to augment RedSea NO/POx with sugar? Or to make a sugar solution to be used in addition to NO/POx?Hi Dr. Jim, the DIY organic carbon additive is made of:
225 ml of vodka (40%)
25 ml of white vinegar
1 tea spoon of brown sugar
Dose is 0,5 ml/100 liters of aquarium water per day
Hope it helps
This is a very interesting article and it makes me think of a new concept...Hi Dr.Jim
I am glad to know your dinos has backed off. I believe it is good idea to have a long term maintenance dosis, of course, not as much as during treatment. This continuous dosing will balance the nutrient recycling mechanism of your tank from algae to bacteria.
Is there a reason that brown super is specified instead of white sugar?Hi Dr. Jim, the DIY organic carbon additive is made of:
225 ml of vodka (40%)
25 ml of white vinegar
1 tea spoon of brown sugar
Dose is 0,5 ml/100 liters of aquarium water per day
Hope it helps
I’m not sure, but it does kind of bother me that they are using sucrose instead of glucose, which is sold as dextrose.Is there a reason that brown super is specified instead of white sugar?
I'm sure they used sucrose because it's easily available at the grocery store or people already have it in their kitchens.I’m not sure, but it does kind of bother me that they are using sucrose instead of glucose, which is sold as dextrose.
Brown sugar is not glucose.
Well, I’m not sure if either is superior, but using glucose is solely because Xepta NP OUT uses it in their recipe and it apparently works better than NOPOX (found by the OP in this thread).I'm sure they used sucrose because it's easily available at the grocery store or people already have it in their kitchens.
Do you think using glucose is superior to sucrose?
Hi,
Just to provide an update. It appears that carbon sources containing glucose (sugar) are more effective. We have found faster recession of dinos using traditional vodka+vinegar+sugar and Xepta NP, than Red Sea NO3 : PO4-X.
Hi Dr. Jim, the DIY organic carbon additive is made of:
225 ml of vodka (40%)
25 ml of white vinegar
1 tea spoon of brown sugar
Dose is 0,5 ml/100 liters of aquarium water per day
Hope it helps
Ahhh gotcha, yep I hear that. Maybe it's just the use of a saccharide in general that's the magic ingredient? Perhaps fructose even helps...Well, I’m not sure if either is superior, but using glucose is solely because Xepta NP OUT uses it in their recipe and it apparently works better than NOPOX (found by the OP in this thread).
I just don’t really like how glucose and sucrose is being used interchangeably, since they aren’t the same.
Here‘a quotes from this thread:
My intuition is that this is generally correct - and it is the basis I pursued in my most recent tank - build the pyramid from the bottom. Selected bacteria + microfauna and their food supplies so that they out compete the nasties when the nasties arrive.This is a very interesting article and it makes me think of a new concept...
Just as we continuously dose to our tanks all the necessary building blocks to grow coral (Calcium, carbonates, major elements, trace metals, amino acids, etc) perhaps we should also continuously dose all the necessary building blocks to grow a healthy bacterial biofilm (Organic carbon source, nitrate and phosphate).
We've always taken the growth of bacteria for granted but perhaps we need to regard a healthy bacterial biofilm to be an active feature of our tanks (even though we can't see it) and treat it, feed it, and maintain it as such.
Some aquarists have an excess of nitrate and phosphate but I have to dose nitrate daily and phosphate occasionally to maintain measurable levels. I suspect that one or both of these bottoming out along with an in-tank cipro treatment may have been the cause of my LCA.
How much nitrate and phosphate did you aim for? I'm currently on day 3 and my nitrate went from 10 to 2 and phosphate from 0.08 to 0.01.This might have actually worked for me against lca dinos. I dosed the DIY recipe with the brown sugar first thing in the morning, and I would also dose microbacter 7 about an hour later. My sand bed when from fully covered to clear in about a week. I did also add some phyto every other day.
While doing this I had to dose alot of nitrate and phosphate to keep the numbers up.
I was dosing about 2ppm of nitrate every day to keep it around 8ppm, and about .04ppm of phosphate to keep it above 0.How much nitrate and phosphate did you aim for? I'm currently on day 3 and my nitrate went from 10 to 2 and phosphate from 0.08 to 0.01.
Yes, I agree. If we keep a continuous dosing of organic carbon in the system, we will be balancing the recycling of inorganic nutrients from algae to bacteria, as we don't want photosynthetic organisms to take advantage and create pestsThis is a very interesting article and it makes me think of a new concept...
Just as we continuously dose to our tanks all the necessary building blocks to grow coral (Calcium, carbonates, major elements, trace metals, amino acids, etc) perhaps we should also continuously dose all the necessary building blocks to grow a healthy bacterial biofilm (Organic carbon source, nitrate and phosphate).
We've always taken the growth of bacteria for granted but perhaps we need to regard a healthy bacterial biofilm to be an active feature of our tanks (even though we can't see it) and treat it, feed it, and maintain it as such.
Some aquarists have an excess of nitrate and phosphate but I have to dose nitrate daily and phosphate occasionally to maintain measurable levels. I suspect that one or both of these bottoming out along with an in-tank cipro treatment may have been the cause of my LCA.