Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment

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Yes, Xepta is more effective. I am not complete sure why. The only ingredient "different" related to other carbon sources is toluene. The traditional recipe is also effective. The difference in composition of vodka, vinegar, sugar with NP-Out is mainly the sugar. But probably the concentrations ratio among constituents also play a role in the efectiveness
 

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Yes, Xepta is more effective. I am not complete sure why. The only ingredient "different" related to other carbon sources is toluene. The traditional recipe is also effective. The difference in composition of vodka, vinegar, sugar with NP-Out is mainly the sugar. But probably the concentrations ratio among constituents also play a role in the efectiveness
Ok I’ll have to start to raise my phosphate and nitrates first as they are in the right ratio but a low ratio. Sure hope this helps because up-to-now nothing seems to be conquering my Dino’s - they have been winning ever fight I throw at them! Tank sand looks like crap!
 

Karliefish

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Ok I’ll have to start to raise my phosphate and nitrates first as they are in the right ratio but a low ratio. Sure hope this helps because up-to-now nothing seems to be conquering my Dino’s - they have been winning ever fight I throw at them! Tank sand looks like crap!
just for clarity…should I do my carbon dosing (per your suggested mixture) at night when all the lights are off or first thing in the morning when the lights are coming on?
 

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just for clarity…should I do my carbon dosing (per your suggested mixture) at night when all the lights are off or first thing in the morning when the lights are coming on?
Lights off, after an hour or two. The thought is the dinos won't uptake the carbon and the good bacteria will outcompete the dinos.
 

Troylee

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If you got the sand dwellers this works.. knock the population down with low blue lights only while dosing h202 and mb7 at night.. once you have them under control find a local reefer or store and grab some live rock.. I just went through this whole ordeal and got a new tank and I put like 3-5 pounds of fresh rock in my sump and they were gone in a couple days! I was fighting them for 3 months ugh… 70 gal system if that helps.
 

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If you got the sand dwellers this works.. knock the population down with low blue lights only while dosing h202 and mb7 at night.. once you have them under control find a local reefer or store and grab some live rock.. I just went through this whole ordeal and got a new tank and I put like 3-5 pounds of fresh rock in my sump and they were gone in a couple days! I was fighting them for 3 months ugh… 70 gal system if that helps.
I tried that method, and it didn't work for me. Even adding the live rock to both sump and DT while dosing.

One thing I notice now is if I lower my tank temp to 78 I have had minor outbreaks. Once I creep back to 82 they go away. I still carbon dose too.

The carbon dosing seemed to work for me on my first outbreak that nothing else helped.

I've read a few things online that temperature can help with some dinos.

Unfortunately dino eradication seems to be really a hit and miss.
 

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I’ve been battling SCA for a few months. Was beating them but got bad cyano. Tried to stay the course for two months and finally got fed up and dosed Chemiclean. Cyano is gone! Now I have horrible GHA…and the dinos are back. Thinking about trying carbon dosing. Some questions:

1) I have TM Bacto Balance. Ok to try that?

2) Bacto Balance instructions suggest also adding K+ and A-. Should I do that? Or just stick with Bacto Balance alone?

3) Bacto Balance suggests dosing in AM just after lights turn on but I see lots of people here dosing at night after lights out. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
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Hi beesnreefs,

I would go better with TM Elimi-NP, it is more effective for dino control. I guess they recommend dosing during day due to oxygen consumption, but for dinos to recede, it is better to do at the beginning of the night.
 

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Hi beesnreefs,

I would go better with TM Elimi-NP, it is more effective for dino control. I guess they recommend dosing during day due to oxygen consumption, but for dinos to recede, it is better to do at the beginning of the night.
Thank you!

Elimi-NP will likely cause a significant reduction of N and P. Is it OK to dose NeoNitro and NeoPhos during the process?

I typically have relatively low N (1-3) and P (0.01-0.05) which is why I was thinking of trying Bacto-Balance.
 
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Yes, but bear in mind that if there is an excesive increase in nitrate and phosphate (over the levels you alreday have) , it will benefit dinos. Pleae kindly check also amonia levels during the treatment
 

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Yes, but bear in mind that if there is an excesive increase in nitrate and phosphate (over the levels you alreday have) , it will benefit dinos. Pleae kindly check also amonia levels during the treatment
Can you help me understand why testing for ammonia is important during this treatment?
 
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Two aquarists using high doses of TM Elimin-NP reported total ammonia readings of around 2 ppm during the treatment. I guess it is probably because of a too much increase in the dose, but just in case...
 

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Thank you for sharing this study. The article was easily understood and fascinating. I have a few questions.

How old were the 11 treated aquaria?

Was the bloom organism identity confirmed by microscopy in each of the 11 systems?

Does every dinoflagellate species bloom disappear with carbon dosing at roughly the same rate?

Did the bloom in every aquarium with the same species of dinoflagellate disappear at roughly the same rate?

Which aquaria developed visible cyanobacteria growth?

Thank you,

Dan
This is the only thing so far that really makes sense to me. what a great read, im dealing with what i think is prorocentrum atm. Nitrate tested around 7ppm and phos was unmeasurable, Have shortened light schedule and turned skimming down while blowing off rock work and turning over the sand bed daily, also changing filter sock daily (to disrupt the population). Might start dosing carbon and phos at night and see what happens.
 
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This is the only thing so far that really makes sense to me. what a great read, im dealing with what i think is prorocentrum atm. Nitrate tested around 7ppm and phos was unmeasurable, Have shortened light schedule and turned skimming down while blowing off rock work and turning over the sand bed daily, also changing filter sock daily (to disrupt the population). Might start dosing carbon and phos at night and see what happens.
Hi jimmy123,

You need to increase your phosphate concentration while dosing carbon. It won't work if nitrate or phosphate are undetectable. We are now sure about this, after some additional testing and evidences from several tanks
 

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how long should i wait when lights turn off to dose? Also do i have to dose bacteria ? tank is almost 2 years old, I have Coolia and i have it under control but only when i have 0 white light on and i really dont like my tank always being blue haha. everytime i turn on my T5s Coral Plus and the whites in my XR30s it starts to come back..... I hate it but with Blues they calm down by 90%
 
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how long should i wait when lights turn off to dose? Also do i have to dose bacteria ? tank is almost 2 years old, I have Coolia and i have it under control but only when i have 0 white light on and i really dont like my tank always being blue haha. everytime i turn on my T5s Coral Plus and the whites in my XR30s it starts to come back..... I hate it but with Blues they calm down by 90%
Hi, you can dose one hour after the lights have turned off. You do not need to dose bacteria. Remember to never let the nitrate/phosphate concentration to be depleted
 

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I’ve read the OP & subsequent replies, but couldn’t find if it’s advised whether the skimmer should be be switched off, & whether activated carbon needs to be removed or not during the protocol?
 

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I’ve read the OP & subsequent replies, but couldn’t find if it’s advised whether the skimmer should be be switched off, & whether activated carbon needs to be removed or not during the protocol?
Keep them both going, carbon may help reduce the toxins dinos release. This skimmer helps oxygenate the water and can help remove the dinos as they die off.
 
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Yes, that is correct. Carbon will reduce the amount of excesive bacterioplancton in the water column typical os this escenario . Protein skimmer is needed to keep water oxigenation
 
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